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drjustice
11-23-2009, 15:22
I have got a Sig 229 in 40 cal on a trade. It says "Frame Made in Germany". It was like new in box. Shoots like a match grade, but...
During the last range trip after about 120-130 rounds of Federal Champion 165gr FMJ practice ammo there was a click and no bang.
Inspected round, no dent on primer. Appeared deep seated. Loaded other round same problem. Repeat, same problem.
After inspecting the gun the range master advised that the firing pin was broken. Said this was common in guns that are dry fired a lot.
WTF? I have seen this happen in Lorcins and Davis $50 guns but never in a $980 Sig. Is this true? Is it common occurrence in Sigs?
Since I am not the original owner will the factory fix it under warranty?
Where can I buy a titanium firing pin?
Glad I did not start carry and have it break when I need it the most?
Very frustrated.

Cobra64
11-24-2009, 21:59
I have got a Sig 229 in 40 cal on a trade. It says "Frame Made in Germany". It was like new in box. Shoots like a match grade, but...
During the last range trip after about 120-130 rounds of Federal Champion 165gr FMJ practice ammo there was a click and no bang.
Inspected round, no dent on primer. Appeared deep seated. Loaded other round same problem. Repeat, same problem.
After inspecting the gun the range master advised that the firing pin was broken. Said this was common in guns that are dry fired a lot.
WTF? I have seen this happen in Lorcins and Davis $50 guns but never in a $980 Sig. Is this true? Is it common occurrence in Sigs?
Since I am not the original owner will the factory fix it under warranty?
Where can I buy a titanium firing pin?
Glad I did not start carry and have it break when I need it the most?
Very frustrated.

TopGunSupply is the preferred supplier of Sig parts for most Sig Sauer owners on SigForum. To replace the firing pin you will have to remove the firing pin postioning pin (sacrificail part that should be replaced). As long as you're in the slide, I'd recommentd you replace the firing pin spring and safety interlock.

Since your 229 had a previous owner, another option you may want to consider is sending the entire gun to Sig and opt for their Sig Service Plan that includes the following:

Detail strip entire firearm, inspecting critical components
Replace most commonly worn springs
Install new night sights
Lubricate, reassemble, and function check
Return in factory lockable box (if needed)
P230/P232 models excluded

It's actually a good deal.

Defender77
11-29-2009, 02:14
Good advice ^^

user
11-29-2009, 04:03
I'd be a little suspicious of that diagnosis. If yours is a DAK model, you may have identified a fairly common problem - the hammer's too light to set off cartridges with "hard" primers, such as Remington UMC and CCI/Blazer. I'm in the process of the same repair, already replaced the firing pin and put in extra power recoil and firing pin springs. That helped, but didn't solve the problem. Next step is to replace the main/hammer spring with an extra power spring. That's all going to increase the trigger pull weight, but reliability is more important.

By the way, the Firing Pin Positioning Pin goes out from one side to the other and not the other way. I can't remember which side it has to be removed from and installed into, and it's not reversible.

It's a good idea to buy the Orendorff Sig Armorer's DVD from TopGunSupply.

Cobra64
11-29-2009, 10:13
I'd be a little suspicious of that diagnosis. If yours is a DAK model, you may have identified a fairly common problem - the hammer's too light to set off cartridges with "hard" primers, such as Remington UMC and CCI/Blazer. I'm in the process of the same repair, already replaced the firing pin and put in extra power recoil and firing pin springs. That helped, but didn't solve the problem. Next step is to replace the main/hammer spring with an extra power spring. That's all going to increase the trigger pull weight, but reliability is more important.

By the way, the Firing Pin Positioning Pin goes out from one side to the other and not the other way. I can't remember which side it has to be removed from and installed into, and it's not reversible.

It's a good idea to buy the Orendorff Sig Armorer's DVD from TopGunSupply.

Removing the firing pin positioning pin is a challenge for most people in that you need two cup punches and/or a two ton arbor process to complete the entire process.

Deputy276
11-29-2009, 13:10
I would send it back to SIG and get the SIG Service Plan. Since you bought it used you have no idea what kind of use/abuse the previous owner put it through. SIG will go over the whole thing and when you get it back it will be as close to brand new condition as you can get in a used gun. Sometimes a "good deal" on a used gun ain't such a good deal. It's a risk you take when buying used. ;)

irontexan27
12-15-2009, 11:48
Out of curiosity is there any truth to the dry firing causing problems with the firing pins?

Cobra64
12-15-2009, 12:43
Out of curiosity is there any truth to the dry firing causing problems with the firing pins?

Not the firing pins, but the firing pin positioning pin can snap. This has happened on both my P220ST and P226ST. I've posted photos many times in the past.

I use A-Zoom snap caps when I dry fire. Others use other brands, and others don't use snap caps at all. :dunno:

CigarGuy
12-16-2009, 07:34
I've been sniffing around some used Sigs and was not aware of the Sig Service Plan. You guys got a ballpark on pricing for that?

Deputy276
12-16-2009, 09:08
I've been sniffing around some used Sigs and was not aware of the Sig Service Plan. You guys got a ballpark on pricing for that?

Check here:
http://www.sigsauer.com/CustomShop/SSP.aspx

mross217
12-28-2009, 08:55
I've had zero problems with my 229DAK. I've run about 500 rounds through it and occasionally dry fire. What ammo should I avoid?

Deputy276
12-28-2009, 09:46
I've had zero problems with my 229DAK. I've run about 500 rounds through it and occasionally dry fire. What ammo should I avoid?

You'll get all kinds of opinions about "best ammo" and "ammo to avoid".
After recent problems with using Federal American Eagle ammo in my SIG226, I've avoided that. I am also avoiding other American-made ammo. Why? Because it is downloaded so low that it sometimes causes malfunctions. Not firing malfunction, but malfunctions in subsystems. Example: I was using Federal American Eagle 115 grain FMJ in my SIG 226 Blackwater Tactical and on the last round the slide wasn't being locked back. I was sure it was a magazine problem, but after trying a more powerful 9MM ammo (Romanian "Hotshot" 9MM), the slde locks back every time. American 9MM ammo is loaded much weaker than European ammo because of the wide variety (and quality) of guns it's used in. I also avoid any ammo made in steel cases. Too rough on the extractors.

Note that 9MM NATO ammo made in USA is a much HOTTER loading than standard 9MM FMJ ammo. There are some companies that duplicate this loading. PMC has one of their 9MM 124 Grain ammo loadings that duplicates 9MM NATO ammo.

Cobra64
01-01-2010, 17:43
You'll get all kinds of opinions about "best ammo" and "ammo to avoid".
After recent problems with using Federal American Eagle ammo in my SIG226, I've avoided that. I am also avoiding other American-made ammo. Why? Because it is downloaded so low that it sometimes causes malfunctions. Not firing malfunction, but malfunctions in subsystems. Example: I was using Federal American Eagle 115 grain FMJ in my SIG 226 Blackwater Tactical and on the last round the slide wasn't being locked back. I was sure it was a magazine problem, but after trying a more powerful 9MM ammo (Romanian "Hotshot" 9MM), the slde locks back every time. American 9MM ammo is loaded much weaker than European ammo because of the wide variety (and quality) of guns it's used in. I also avoid any ammo made in steel cases. Too rough on the extractors.

Note that 9MM NATO ammo made in USA is a much HOTTER loading than standard 9MM FMJ ammo. There are some companies that duplicate this loading. PMC has one of their 9MM 124 Grain ammo loadings that duplicates 9MM NATO ammo.

That's an interesting observation. My results have been different.

When I sent my NIB P220ST back to Sig for their $150 AEP package fee to get the trigger back up to normal Sig standards; and had Exeter index new Sig night sights, they used Federal American Eagle 115 grain FMJ as target ammo.

I also use Blazer aluminum, Blazer brass, and Speer Lawman ammo in all my range guns without incident.

BTW, have you ever used used Remington Golden Saber or Speer Gold Dot ammo?

Deputy276
01-02-2010, 10:10
That's an interesting observation. My results have been different.

When I sent my NIB P220ST back to Sig for their $150 AEP package fee to get the trigger back up to normal Sig standards; and had Exeter index new Sig night sights, they used Federal American Eagle 115 grain FMJ as target ammo.

I also use Blazer aluminum, Blazer brass, and Speer Lawman ammo in all my range guns without incident.

BTW, have you ever used used Remington Golden Saber or Speer Gold Dot ammo?

I have the Golden Saber in 9MM standard loading. Haven't fired it yet. I think I will use it as range ammo. I am in the process (still testing) of switching my main defense ammo to the new Hornady "Critical Defense" ammo. Good expansion and doesn't need +P. Looking for some in .40 S&W right now, since the SIG 226 in that caliber is my go-to weapon.

There was an article on a website, but I haven't been able to find it again, concerning American loadings of 9MM. It described in detail why they are much weaker than foreign loadings. I will admit that I haven't had any malfunctions with 9MM in other weapons I own. It IS possible that the 20-shot mags have a spring that is stiffer than normal and that might account for the failure to lock the slide back.

Dep

Cobra64
01-02-2010, 10:50
I have the Golden Saber in 9MM standard loading. Haven't fired it yet. I think I will use it as range ammo. I am in the process (still testing) of switching my main defense ammo to the new Hornady "Critical Defense" ammo. Good expansion and doesn't need +P. Looking for some in .40 S&W right now, since the SIG 226 in that caliber is my go-to weapon.

There was an article on a website, but I haven't been able to find it again, concerning American loadings of 9MM. It described in detail why they are much weaker than foreign loadings. I will admit that I haven't had any malfunctions with 9MM in other weapons I own. It IS possible that the 20-shot mags have a spring that is stiffer than normal and that might account for the failure to lock the slide back.

Dep

There are several armorers, pistol smiths, engineers and machinists on Sig Forum who do extensive design and engineering on Sigs, not only to correct inherent Sig design faults, but ammo testing as well. Based on my readings and subsequent conclusions of their work, there are several brands of domestically produced ammo that is crap. Winchester "White Box" is one of them. They also stress cleaning and proper lubrication.

Based on their recommendations, and using the ammo in my previous post, I have never had any malfunctions.

As for self defense ammo, I have still have 1,800 rounds of Speer 124 gr. GDHP +P on the shelf.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/Davis1950/Weapons/Ammo/P1020660.jpg