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Nicoroshi
12-30-2009, 21:38
I have bent flats before for four different builds but have never tackled a milled re-weld before. I have been welding for over 20 years , and I saw kits at Apex for Yugo M70 underfolder de-milled rifles, and figured WTF. I have heard that some of the Yugo kits have shot out barrels, and or really bad pitting from corrosive ammo. New barrels are only a touch over $100 so I took my chances, and ordered one having always wanted a Yugo.
Much to my surprise I got a very nice kit. Very little surface rust, only some minor pitting on the carrier, and piston, and best of all after I cleaned the barrel I saw deep lands, and grooves along with a perfect crown, and a bullet test that looked like this>>>
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/6124/dscn3188w.jpg

:wow: Very nice for the price IMHO, and I guess I got lucky on the kit they sent me.
Here's the kit as I got it>>>
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/9487/dscn3187.jpg
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/7223/dscn3213a.jpg

The wood needs some TLC as well as a few other parts but it should make a fine rifle, and fun project.

I will update this thread as I continue work on this kit.

I de-milled the rear receiver stub tonight. All parts covered in cosmoline (thin layer) so I cleaned as I de-milled. Everything is in excellent condition.

toshbar
12-30-2009, 21:54
So what do you do? Order one of these parts kits and a receiver and put it together with a couple of rivets? Is there anything else needed?

DrMaxit
12-30-2009, 23:36
try shooting it like that.... whats the worst that could happen? I'm sure its lightweight for sure. :dunno:

Nicoroshi
12-30-2009, 23:37
@toshbar

You can order, and DROS a new receiver......if you have about $350 + fees to add to what you already spent on the kit. They do not require rivets as it's a milled receiver. You're thinking of a pressed 4130 (1mil or 1.6mil for Yugos) receiver like the ones available from NODAK Spud or one you bend yourself from AKBuilder or Tapco (to name a few).
I have bent my own flats for four builds to date like the ones that would require rivets or screws.
Like this one>>>
Start [One rusty 1979 Romy "G" kit]
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/5699/dscn2778.jpg

Finish One resurrected 1979 Romy "G" with Ironwood Designs Maple furniture (screw build)>>>
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/6285/dscn2886p.jpg

And in action>>>>
http://firingsquad.us/albums/BLM_Land_Trip_2/Nico_shoots_Mashka_kneeling.mov




I am going to re-weld it this Yugo kit
VZ58 from other forums mills, and sells repair plates for these for $70.
There are some laws that you must abide by when building one however.
922(r):
You cannot import a whole firearm (anymore) so the rebuild needs to be built using 'no more than 10 imported parts'
An AK has 16 parts one of which is the front trunnion. A milled receiver does not have a front trunnion as it's part of the receiver so I need to use 5 US made parts in my rebuild to be 922(r) compliant. My parts are trigger, hammer, disconnector, receiver, and muzzle device/ attachment (I will explain this later as to why this part).

NFA requirements:
(in CA where I am at) 30" minimum length with minumum 16" barrel.
I want to keep the underfolder functional but that puts the rifle's overall length at 25 3/4" (felony) so I am permanently attaching a 5" muzzle device (fake can actually) to meet the 30" minimum length in CA. It already has a 16 1/4" long barrel so no worries there.
(CA only) SB23:
A center fire rifle with the ability to accept a detachable magazine cannot have a pistol grip or the foldable stock so I will affix a mag locking device (one that requires a tool to remove the mag.....and a bullet is defined as a tool.....hence bullet button), and a 10 round magazine (SB23 also states that a fixed magazine rifle cannot use more than a 10 round mag).

I know.....CA laws suck but this is, and has always been my home.

Now the good news.
It is perfectly legal to build a firearm for your own use (Yes, even in CA).
The parts kits are NOT a firearm (no receiver) so can be mailed directly to your door.
And the kicker. Technically this rifle doesn't exist (as far as paperwork goes), and is 100% legal.

My suggestion to anyone wishing to build one is do the research on your federal, state, and local laws then talk to the guys on the forums (AKForums, AR15.com, etc) that are builders. They will have very helpful, and insightful advice, and linked tutorials on 'how to'. Realize that it is a project though. The Romy above took me about 40 hours of work from start to finish. There's nothing like shooting a piece of history that you've personally resurrected though.

toshbar
12-31-2009, 10:57
Why are the rifles chopped up like that? For import laws right?

couldn't they just grind off and punch the rivets out and ship the parts kit and reciever separately? or is the receiver itself the problem and the only part non-importable.

Nicoroshi
12-31-2009, 18:02
The BATF decided (and specified exactly) how to de-mill rifles being imported.
The receiver IS the firearm. The rest is just a bucket of parts. Destroy the receiver in the manner that they do, and everything else is still good but it's no longer a firearm.

I had some time after work today to weld up the jig I will be using for aligning the receiver chunks when I re-weld them. It is important that the jig be flat, and square so I filed the 1/2" plate steel scrap flat, and used a piece of tube steel.
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/327/dscn3224f.jpg

Bottom view:
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/5884/dscn3221z.jpg

To give you an idea of how I will use it:

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/47/dscn3225.jpg

I also took some time to de-mill the rear receiver chunk so it could sit flat on the jig.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/257/dscn3220z.jpg

Next I will be cutting the receiver pieces square to the top rail, and beveling for weld along with scraping the wood, and re-finishing.
My repair plates are on their way so these are things I can do in the mean time.

Nicoroshi
01-01-2010, 20:40
Did some more work on the rifle today.
Stripped the furniture, and found that the lower hand guard was a much lighter color than the upper. I stained both with walnut stain, and now the color matches much better.
Will let dry overnight, and then 3 coats of deft clear coat for them.

I also polished the carrier, and noticed that the piston was looser than my Romy kits so I took a look at how the carrier impacted on the front of the receiver, and noticed a 1/32" gap on the opposite side from the charging handle. I know it is rare for both sides to hit, and that the charging handle side is more important as there is more meat on that side to handle the impact of cycling but I wasn't just gonna let this go on this build.
I broke out the welder, and ran a bead on the receiver to build up the metal in that area then filed it down (with many checks of impact using a black marker) until both sides impacted evenly. I am pretty proud of how it came out.

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8483/dscn3252.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/3019/dscn3235w.jpg
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8365/dscn3236l.jpg


I also drilled the hole in the muzzle device so that it would catch the detent on the front sight base. When screwed full on with the detent in the hole it will be a permanent modification as you will not be able to get to the detent to depress it. This will get me my 30" minimum length for CA legality.

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/2988/dscn3245n.jpg

I also took the time to bandsaw, and file the receiver chunks square tothe top rail to make fit up of the repair plates easier when I re-weld.

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/579/dscn3249q.jpg

Furniture has been stained Walnut, and I am coating with 3 coats of Deft clear coat today.
Pictures of that when complete.

Just awaiting my repair plates now...........

Nicoroshi
01-02-2010, 20:22
Not the best refinishing job but a huge improvement from the way I received them.
Couple of deep gouges in the top cover that I was not able to remove but I am looking at that as 'character'.

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/6874/dscn3255.jpg

I dyed some Paracord black for the cheek weld area of the stock.
Now just awaiting my repair plates to continue.

Nicoroshi
01-06-2010, 19:33
Milled repair plates came in today, and I will be welding this weekend!
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/4889/dscn3256.jpg

TheGrimReaper
01-07-2010, 22:00
Man, this is neat keep us posted please. You really have peaked my interest!!!

Nicoroshi
01-08-2010, 22:19
Man, this is neat keep us posted please. You really have peaked my interest!!!
Not a problem GrimReaper.
Took a break today, and went shooting with a couple of old friends so welding, and fit up will commence tomorrow.
I will take pictures, and post on my progress as it happens.

Nicoroshi
01-09-2010, 20:35
Started fit-up, and welding today.
Finished half of the first side.
A ton of work compared to building off a bent flat or a complete milled receiver but it's coming out well.

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/8948/dscn3272j.jpg

Next I will be trimming the right side interior rail, and welding it in place. Then I can cut the ejector rail to shape, weld it into the left repair plate, and finish off welding the sides.

Nicoroshi
01-10-2010, 17:39
Continuing on the welding today, and have both interior rails welded up, and both side plates welded inside, and out.
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3058/dscn3280.jpg
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/3047/dscn3291r.jpg
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/2817/dscn3287g.jpg

Next I will be grinding the welds nearly flat, and finishing with a file, cutting the excess off the bottom, locating the FCG pin holes, and drilling then finally closing up the bottom, and cutting out for the trigger, mag catch holes, and grip mounting holes.
More pictures as I progress......

Nicoroshi
01-10-2010, 21:35
Cleaned up the welds inside, and out, and trimmed the bottom.
Looking more like a receiver now :devildance:

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/4484/dscn3295n.jpg
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8564/dscn3297l.jpg

Nicoroshi
01-12-2010, 22:13
Took some time after work today to fit the carrier, and bolt to the receiver.
This involves filing both top rails evenly until the carrier fits, and slides the full length by just tilting the receiver.
I then cut the notch in the upper rail for the bolt, and trimmed the interior rails to fit the bolt as well as smoothed out the rail connections between the repair plates, and the existing receiver (very minor filing since my layout was really close). Shaped the ejector so it would leave as much of itself as possible passing through the bolt without cocking the bolt to the right side as it passed.
Went one step further and fit the top dust cover to the receiver as well. I did my layout for overall length minus 1/32" so I could file the cover to fit rattle free.
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8303/dscn3299q.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6719/dscn3300o.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1141/dscn3301.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1248/dscn3303c.jpg


The carrier glides smoothly from back to locked into battery by just tilting the receiver (like it should) with minimal side to side play.

Tomorrow I will lay out the FCG pin holes, and safety holes, and drill them.
I am dropping in a Tapco G2 FCG, and will need to trim the sides of the hammer to fit into the new receiver (it's 1/8" thick 4130 steel on each side so the Tapco hammer is too wide to fit inside as well as leave room for the retaining plate).

I will update again when I have more to share.

theTactician
01-12-2010, 23:16
nice job sir.:supergrin:

space_weazel
01-12-2010, 23:54
This is 100% bad ass, and makes me want to get a lot better at welding than I am.

Nicoroshi
01-13-2010, 01:35
This is 100% bad ass, and makes me want to get a lot better at welding than I am.

Thank you Sirs.
It's a ton of work, a lot of measuring (I use a digital caliper quite a bit) but man what a blast to resurrect a piece of history, and even more fun to enjoy shooting it.

As for welding I sold my SyncroWave 250 Tig, and Stick welder last year, and bought myself a little 220v Mig welder at Harbor Freight for $170.
Mig welding is really easy compared to Tig, and IMHO even easier than stick welding.
Practice makes perfect so grab yourself some scrap, and buzz away. You'll get the feel for it rather quickly. I can tell by the sound the weld makes when I weld how to adjust it to make the bead smooth, and penetrate like I want. Think bacon frying in a pan. :)
I am running a shield gas of 75% Argon, and 25% CO2 with ER70s-6 wire.
It is mild steel wire, and I am welding 4130 steel (ChromeMoly) but the welds are to hold the rails in place, and the receiver together. Where they are welded does not need to be hardened to withstand the abuse of the rifle being fired.
The piece of the front of the receiver that came with the kit is heat treated, and contains the locking lugs . It also contained the rear of the receiver that will take the impact of the carrier when cycling (also a heat treated piece).
The only parts I am adding that will need to be heat treated are the ejector, and FCG pin holes which are 4130 steel, and can be treated with some Mapp gas, and a bucket of water.

The kit was $250, and I bought the repair plates for $73 from another gun forum. With 922(r) FCG ($40), and muzzle device ($30). Then some misc parts (paracord, screws, nuts, sling, Rit dye, wood finishing stuff, Dremel disks, cold blue, etc) I figure I am into it for about $450-$500. Not bad for a project to keep me out of trouble for a while, and a milled Yugo M70 underfolder rifle that I built myself.

Looking forward to drilling some holes tomorrow after work, and fitting the safety, and FCG so I can close the bottom of the receiver up.

space_weazel
01-14-2010, 02:06
I keep looking forward to having a garage that I can put a 6' Bridgeport, a lathe, new welding setup and obviously everything else......

Someday....

CarlosC
01-14-2010, 15:05
Just amazing. I can't wait to see how it turns out, but following along as the gun is resurected is very rewarding as well.

TheGrimReaper
01-14-2010, 16:40
Very, Very Nice. Coming along very nicely!!!

Nicoroshi
01-14-2010, 21:46
Did layout for, and drilled FCG holes, and safety holes.
Had to counter sink FCG pin holes so the retainer catch groove on the pin protruded far enough into the receiver to catch the retainer.

Fit hammer, and trigger to receiver (had to shave the sides as they were too wide to fit into the thick receiver).
Fit the safety, and had to weld a small piece to the base of it to make it long enough to engage the back of the trigger, and file to fit.


Long story short is I am ready (finally) to close up the bottom of this bad boy, and cut the trigger hole as well as drill for trigger guard retaining screws, and cut for the mag well.

Coming along nicely, and with any luck I should have it put together enough so I can take it apart to heat treat the FCG holes, and ejector as well as blue the receiver, and other misc parts (mostly touch up on the rest of the rifle) by this weekend.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5890/dscn3305.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8849/dscn3308.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8585/dscn3310h.jpg


Ever seen an AK without a bottom?
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/4854/dscn3311.jpg

Nicoroshi
01-15-2010, 22:17
Welded in base plate, cleaned welds, fit mag well ('0' mag wobble :D) , and did layout for trigger hole, and cut.
The base metal I welded in is .065 in thickness, and I will have to do some work on the trigger, and the inside of the receiver to keep the hammer spring from binding on the bottom, and allow for the trigger to swivel enough for good grip on disconnector. Because of the thicker metal the back, and front of the trigger does not allow for full (enough) motion of the trigger.
Some creative dremel , and file work with many checks for function tomorrow, and I will be back in business.
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7955/dscn3312.jpg
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/8850/dscn3313.jpg

Nicoroshi
01-16-2010, 19:28
Drilled, and tapped holes for trigger guard, and mag catch.
Did some custom dremel, and file work to account for thicker metal of the base I welded in, and to tune the trigger per the tutorial on 'Adjusting an AK Trigger' on Arizona Response Systems under notes/ AK Notes / Adjusting an AK Trigger.

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/504/dscn3314.jpg
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/3319/dscn3316.jpg
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/574/dscn3318.jpg

After dry function testing I made a short video of a function test in my garage (wife filming) of carrier function, disconnector reset, and three round load, and ejection of hollow points.
Muzzle device attached for 30 3/4" overall length, and no pistol grip attached so I could work it without a mag lock. 10/30 magazine. Gotta stay legal you know.
(never mind the house slippers :tongueout:)

http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/Milled_build_function_test.mov

I will be stripping the rifle down, and heat treating the FCG pin holes as well as the ejector then final sanding of the exterior of the re-built receiver for bluing tomorrow.
Trying to schedule a live fire test in the near future as this project is almost done. :2gun:

Nicoroshi
01-16-2010, 21:25
Stripped, Heat treated, and final sanded.
Couple of tiny scratches still visible but it's an AK after all.
I am pretty happy with how it's shaping up, and I will be bluing it tomorrow.

Next pictures should be of a complete rifle. :banana::devildance:
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4899/dscn3319.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2702/dscn3320.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8940/dscn3321.jpg

Nicoroshi
01-18-2010, 18:07
Happy (re) Birthday to my Yugo milled receiver underfolder!

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4368/dscn3322w.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8669/dscn3323s.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9708/dscn3325z.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8922/dscn3326nc.jpg


Overall length folded is 30 3/4". 16 1/4" barrel. Mag locked, and 10/30 (Chinese) mag for SB 23. Trigger, Hammer, Disconnector, Receiver, and Muzzle device all US made for 922(r) (milled receiver builds lack a front trunnion so the total parts count is 15 as you do not count the receiver twice for the trunnion).

One CA legal re-weld is born.

I will be taking her out as soon as I can arrange it for a live fire test. I will bring the camera, and return with a range report.

KillStick
01-18-2010, 18:22
this is very interesting, great work

Nicoroshi
01-18-2010, 18:27
this is very interesting, great work

Thank you Sir. It helped to have built 4 different pressed receiver builds before this so I have a good understanding of how the rifle was designed as well as how it should function.
The only question I really have left in my mind is accuracy of the barrel.
Head space is good, and all function tests passed.
I am looking forward to the live fire testing. :cool:

Seattle206
01-18-2010, 18:28
Beautiful! Now that is a work of art!

Nicoroshi
01-21-2010, 18:31
Wasn't happy with the East German blue sling so after pricing Bulgarian black slings (with shipping) I decided to dye the East German sling black using some Rit dye (same way I dyed the para cord).
Also not happy with the uneven bluing so have scotch brited the gun, and oiled as I wait for some different cold bluing supplies.
Date has been set for live fire testing on the 30th. I will bring the camera for some video of that, and post when I return.

Glockdude1
01-24-2010, 11:03
Happy (re) Birthday to my Yugo milled receiver underfolder!

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8669/dscn3323s.jpg

One CA legal re-weld is born.

I will be taking her out as soon as I can arrange it for a live fire test. I will bring the camera, and return with a range report.

Nice build!!

:thumbsup:

Jmzzl
01-24-2010, 11:35
That looks great! Good Job!

Nicoroshi
01-24-2010, 14:35
Not a done deal yet.
I have stripped the rifle back down, scotch brited, and oiled it as I wait for my bluing supplies (should be here Tuesday) to re-blue.
I also need to safety check it.

First part of the 'caveman style' safety checks involves checking head space of the rifle.
It should be set from the factory as it was a numbers matching kit so was once a complete rifle head spaced at the factory. Again safety first so we check anyway. The difference between the Go, and No-Go gauges is .006" so we improvise (cause I don't want to spend $100 for the gauges) using plain old scotch tape.
Three layers of scotch tape is close to .006". There will be some variance between rounds from different manufacturers but it's close enough for general safety checking. There is still some margin for error since the field gauge (largest head space can be ,and still be safe to shoot) is .011" larger than the Go gauge.

Here's a video of the check>>>
http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/Caveman_headspace_check.mov

Head space checks out.

This coming weekend I will be live fire testing up at my father's place in the woods. It's caveman also.
It involves putting the rifle in a weighted rest with a string tied to the trigger. Chamber one round. Hide behind a large tree, and pull the string.
[It should] fire, cycle, and lock into battery on an empty chamber [without blowing up of course].
I then strip the rifle, and check for structural defects (cracks, and the like).
If all looks good (which it should) THEN I can call it complete.

Might strike some of you as a bit funny that I do it this way but having 3-4k pounds of pressure going off in a chamber of an old rifle that hasn't been fired in years, and was cut into pieces when I got it I would rather take my time, and make 100% sure it's safe before I hold it while firing.
Safety first is a good rule of thumb IMHO.

mvician
01-24-2010, 16:14
awesome :cool:

Jmzzl
01-24-2010, 18:47
Not a done deal yet.
I have stripped the rifle back down, scotch brited, and oiled it as I wait for my bluing supplies (should be here Tuesday) to re-blue.
I also need to safety check it.

First part of the 'caveman style' safety checks involves checking head space of the rifle.
It should be set from the factory as it was a numbers matching kit so was once a complete rifle head spaced at the factory. Again safety first so we check anyway. The difference between the Go, and No-Go gauges is .006" so we improvise (cause I don't want to spend $100 for the gauges) using plain old scotch tape.
Three layers of scotch tape is close to .006". There will be some variance between rounds from different manufacturers but it's close enough for general safety checking. There is still some margin for error since the field gauge (largest head space can be ,and still be safe to shoot) is .011" larger than the Go gauge.

Here's a video of the check>>>
http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/Caveman_headspace_check.mov

Head space checks out.

This coming weekend I will be live fire testing up at my father's place in the woods. It's caveman also.
It involves putting the rifle in a weighted rest with a string tied to the trigger. Chamber one round. Hide behind a large tree, and pull the string.
[It should] fire, cycle, and lock into battery on an empty chamber [without blowing up of course].
I then strip the rifle, and check for structural defects (cracks, and the like).
If all looks good (which it should) THEN I can call it complete.

Might strike some of you as a bit funny that I do it this way but having 3-4k pounds of pressure going off in a chamber of an old rifle that hasn't been fired in years, and was cut into pieces when I got it I would rather take my time, and make 100% sure it's safe before I hold it while firing.
Safety first is a good rule of thumb IMHO.

Theres absolutely nothing wrong with that. I doubt alot of people would go through with safety testing of the sort. You just never know what could happen, especially on an older rifle like that.

RWBlue
01-24-2010, 22:22
Not a done deal yet.
I have stripped the rifle back down, scotch brited, and oiled it as I wait for my bluing supplies (should be here Tuesday) to re-blue.
I also need to safety check it.

First part of the 'caveman style' safety checks involves checking head space of the rifle.
It should be set from the factory as it was a numbers matching kit so was once a complete rifle head spaced at the factory. Again safety first so we check anyway. The difference between the Go, and No-Go gauges is .006" so we improvise (cause I don't want to spend $100 for the gauges) using plain old scotch tape.
Three layers of scotch tape is close to .006". There will be some variance between rounds from different manufacturers but it's close enough for general safety checking. There is still some margin for error since the field gauge (largest head space can be ,and still be safe to shoot) is .011" larger than the Go gauge.

Here's a video of the check>>>
http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/Caveman_headspace_check.mov

Head space checks out.

This coming weekend I will be live fire testing up at my father's place in the woods. It's caveman also.
It involves putting the rifle in a weighted rest with a string tied to the trigger. Chamber one round. Hide behind a large tree, and pull the string.
[It should] fire, cycle, and lock into battery on an empty chamber [without blowing up of course].
I then strip the rifle, and check for structural defects (cracks, and the like).
If all looks good (which it should) THEN I can call it complete.

Might strike some of you as a bit funny that I do it this way but having 3-4k pounds of pressure going off in a chamber of an old rifle that hasn't been fired in years, and was cut into pieces when I got it I would rather take my time, and make 100% sure it's safe before I hold it while firing.
Safety first is a good rule of thumb IMHO.

Nothing wrong with being safe.

BTW, you have a very cool project. I wish I had skills. And not having skills, I wish I knew someone with skills local to me to help me build my rifle.

Nicoroshi
01-25-2010, 00:19
Nothing wrong with being safe.

BTW, you have a very cool project. I wish I had skills. And not having skills, I wish I knew someone with skills local to me to help me build my rifle.

I find re-building AKs to be very rewarding. I get to follow one of my hobbies while pissing off the liberals in my state by legally bringing back to life that which they have destroyed. :tongueout:
I also get the satisfaction of shooting what I build.
I am a builder by nature. I have worked in construction for the last 23 years building everything from high rise office buildings to chemical labs in the Bay Area. I love working metal, wood, plastics, and even creating 3D models for a PC video game called 'Oblivion'. My daughter told me that if I cannot fix it it must not be broken.

There are those out there (no matter where you're located) that are builders like me who will help if you decide you want to build out an AK kit like I have done. In CA (I am sure in other states as well) there are 'build parties' where 5-10 guys in an area will get together and share tools, and knowledge building out these kits over a weekend. Many have built out even more kits than I have had a hand in (this is my 5th). Check out some of the gunsmithing sections of other forums for build party threads. Do some reading (many tutorials on the web on 'how to'), and get together with these guys, and a good numbers matching kit (which are becoming scarce since ones with barrels stopped importing in 2004). The law as I understand it reads that it is legal for you to build a firearm for your own use as long as you don't intend to sell it when you build it, and abide by all local, state, and federal laws in it's construction. The guys at the build parties in your area will know these laws for your area.
In CA the big difference is overall length is measured with the stock in it's shortest configuration (most other states it's with the stock extended), and SB23 (mag locked, and 10 round max). 922(r) I believe applies to all states but is easy with changing the FCG (3 parts), and some furniture or muzzle device to keep the imported parts at 10 or less.
A little research into the laws, and builders in your area should get you on your way. :)

Nicoroshi
01-27-2010, 17:37
All put back together after re-bluing, and dying the sling.
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/555/dscn3333v.jpg

Having fun with para cord.
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/6729/dscn3336n.jpg

Weld still visible but only from a certain angle, and lighting.
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/5313/dscn3337j.jpg

Deeper, richer, and more even blue using 'Blue wonder' over the Birchwood Casy cold blue, and best of all it didn't rust like with the Birchwood Casy stuff.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4066/dscn3338i.jpg

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/1655/dscn3340a.jpg

Test firing may have to wait a bit as the road to the shooting area I normally use for testing is snowed in (and they don't plow that one).
I will see what I can work out for option 2.......BLM land.

Nicoroshi
01-31-2010, 18:33
Well, I got lucky with the weather, and amount of snow on the ground, and my father, and I could make it to the shooting area for a test fire of the rifle.
Here's the set up for 'first round fired' safety check>>

http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/caveman_first_fire_pic_1.jpg
http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/caveman_first_fire_pic_2.jpg

Rifle is set in a weighted rest with a string tied to the trigger. One round is chambered, and from a safe position (in this case from behind a huge stump of a tree) the string is pulled.

Rifle fired, cycled, ejected shell, and closed on an empty chamber.
Rifle is disassembled, and checked for any cracks or other structural defects (All looked good).
Then did a rapid fire (8 round) check for reliable cycling, ejection, and function.

[Short movie of it (sorry no sound)]
http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Personal/8_round_rapid_fire_test.mov
Flying colors, and a successful re-weld build :50cal:

Next will be a range report on accuracy after bench sighting it in.

mvician
01-31-2010, 19:13
:cool: http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/mvician/smiles/smileak.gif

Nicoroshi
02-07-2010, 20:54
Range report.
Put about 150 rounds through her today to sight in, and have some fun.
'0' malfunctions :cool:.

Hand held, and sitting at 50 yards iron sighted shooting 20 rounds of Golden Tiger looks like this on an 8" shoot 'n' see:
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5649/dscn3342w.jpg

At 100 yards iron sighted, and hand held I got 11/20 in the 8" Shoot 'n' see. :yuck:
I'd love to blame the short sight radius, crappy irons, or a slightly pitted barrel but the truth is probably the operator could use some better eyesight or a steadier hand.

Any suggestions for a Yugo friendly better sighting system (without adding rails)?

RWBlue
02-07-2010, 23:37
There was someone who replaced the rear sight with a micro-red dot.

I am probably going to go with a rail.

Nicoroshi
02-08-2010, 00:12
There was someone who replaced the rear sight with a micro-red dot.

I am probably going to go with a rail.

I have been looking at options for sight replacement/ upgrade, and found 'mojo' peep sight rear sight leaf although it doesn't look like it's set up for adjustments for longer range shooting like the original (i.e. Would require either guessing at how many clicks to turn or adjusting an allen screw( on the cheaper model). A better option IMHO would be the peep sight by Krebs as it's uses the original rear sighting system for longer ranges.. I have also found 'mepro light', and 'XS big dot' sight replacements as well as colored front sight posts from Tapco.

I like the idea of a peep sight as I do fairly well with my irons on my ARs (Troy flip ups).

The micro red dot is really tempting as well but I wonder what the MOA of the dot would be. Most I have found are in the 5MOA range.

Leaning toward the Krebs peep sight as it would not permanently change the rifle, and works as a direct replacement of the rear sight leaf.
Anyone have experience with one?
Is it worth the purchase or should I stick with the original Yugo sight leaf?

Glockdude1
02-08-2010, 10:54
Any suggestions for a Yugo friendly better sighting system (without adding rails)?

http://www.tech-sights.com/AK%2029.jpg

Yugo $125

http://www.tech-sights.com

:cool:

Nicoroshi
02-09-2010, 17:35
Thanks for the suggestions Glockdude1, and RWBlue.
The cover with the rear peep sight in it although would gain a longer sight radius, and advantage of a peep sight just looks fugly IMHO.
I was interested in the peep sight rear leaf offered by Krebs but alas the Yugo uses a shorter rear sight leaf than the AKMs it was designed for which shot that idea out of the water :(.
My other options were buy a Yugo replacement rear sight leaf ($20), and do some creative welding using the aperture off an old AR-15 peep sight I had laying around or (the option I chose) break down, and buy a Yugo UTG rail hand guard (even though I really love the wood) , and mount my Tru-Glo red dot to it.
I will return with pics of it installed, and a range report when I can.
Good news is if I hate it I can re-install the wood, and try the 'project build-a-sight' method.
Wish me tight groups!

Nicoroshi
02-13-2010, 23:01
Well, I tried the UTG Rail with a red dot today.
Wait.....Let me step back some.
First had to fit the UTG rail to the rifle so the underfolder stock actually would lock into place. The pivot points on the stock near the butt impacted the rear of the side rails.
IMHO bad design, and poor/ misleading advertising stating that "it will not interfere with the underfolder stock".
Fired off about 80 rounds of Wolf HP Military classic in this configuration shooting prone (sighting in red dot, and grouping).
Some of the groups were nice. In the 1.5" range at 50 yards but with ammo from the same box, and sight in the same spot I would get fliers that were 5-6" off POA.

I removed the rail, and dot in favor of the wood, and irons since my grouping is about the same either way.

My question is:
Could these strange inconsistent results in grouping be attributed to ammo alone or something going on in the bore?
If ammo is your guess what is the most accurate 7.62x39 ammo you have used?

RWBlue
02-14-2010, 00:51
I have not shot my AKs for groups much. The day I did...

Yugo 7.62x39 underfolder
100 yards
iron sights
4-29-09
5 rounds Wolf military (lacquer coated) JHP

group
3.110-.29=2.82
I don't normally shoot sub minute groups so....

Thinking about your situation:
1. I assume you are shooting from a bench and you know how to shoot from a bench.
2. How good of shooter are you? This is a serious question, are you expecting .25 inch groups or 3 in groups? I will admit, I am not a sub MOA shooter, even with a sub MOA gun.
3. How does the crown look? Anything blatantly screwed up? You are running a fake suppressor. I run a real suppressor. If I was getting what you are getting I would remove my suppressor and retest to see it I was getting a baffle strike.

RWBlue
02-14-2010, 01:05
One more thing while I am thinking about it. I am running a new barrel. I don't know if my barrel is .308 or .311.

Nicoroshi
02-14-2010, 01:27
Thinking about your situation:
1. I assume you are shooting from a bench and you know how to shoot from a bench.Was shooting prone. I do know how to shoot from a bench but was in BLM land today so no bench available.
I shoot my 6.8SPC AR at 100 yards off a bipod (2 - 10 shot groups) like this:
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4152/dscn2935.jpg

2. How good of shooter are you? This is a serious question, are you expecting .25 inch groups or 3 in groups? I will admit, I am not a sub MOA shooter, even with a sub MOA gun.I am a good shooter but with bulk imported ammo, and a gun rebuilt from an undetermined background (other than knowing it used to be full auto) I don't expect any better than 3-4MOA.

3. How does the crown look? Anything blatantly screwed up? You are running a fake suppressor. I run a real suppressor. If I was getting what you are getting I would remove my suppressor and retest to see it I was getting a baffle strike.Crown looks good, and barrel passes bullet test easily. I am running a fake suppressor though removing it is not an option as I would be committing a felony in my state having a rifle less than 30" in overall length in it's shortest configuration so the fake can is pinned permanently. It is however firmly screwed on (no wobble at all), and centered on the barrel. It also has in interior larger than the bore, and bullets are not impacting/ rubbing it on the way out.

As for the question of barrel it's the original barrel. Deep lands, and grooves. Good looking crown. Passes bullet test. Does have some pitting due to corrosive ammo from the gas block forward to the muzzle although the lands are still visible to the muzzle.
I just have trouble understanding the first three shots in 1.5", and the next one 3" away from that. Wondering if that could be attributed to the ammo alone or I am missing something .

Nicoroshi
02-15-2010, 19:16
Update:

I thought some more about gases leaving the muzzle, and the fake can when a bullet is fired, and figured it couldn't hurt to re-crown the barrel, and put a crown on the fake can as well.
So after pinning my stock open I cut the top of the fake can to get to the FSB detent so I could push it in, and remove the fake can to re-crown the barrel.
There was a slight bit of pitting at the base of the barrel crown. The fake can on the other hand was way out of being an even crown on the discharge end.
Both of these issues were repaired, and fake can cut to remove cuts I had made to reach the detent, and end lapped perpendicular to the side (total length folded is now 30 1/4").
I took it to the range today to re-sight it in, and try it out. I had noticed that the top of the end of the fake can was more open than the bottom when adding a crown to it. What a difference! After sighting in I was able to shoot about a 2" 5 shot group at 50 yards iron sighted, and hand held. My group at 100 was in the 3.5" range with the same set up, and no fliers!
My guess it was a combination of the uneven base of the crown on the old barrel, and the end of the fake can being uneven (for sure the later as I had to raise my front sight almost two turns to re-sight back in).
Interesting that the end of the fake can although a larger diameter than the bore could have such a profound affect on the bullet flight but when I think about it that makes sense. The gases are still pushing the bullet at that point so it does stand to reason that both the muzzle of the barrel, and that of the fake can should be crowned.
Thanks RWBlue for getting me to look at it again.

RWBlue
02-16-2010, 21:49
Thanks RWBlue for getting me to look at it again.

No problem.
The cool thing is, you knew how to fix the problem.

snappydad
02-18-2010, 16:23
Really informative thread. Thanks for sharing such an interesting project with us! :yourock:

Nicoroshi
02-18-2010, 19:40
Really informative thread. Thanks for sharing such an interesting project with us! :yourock:

No problem Snappydad.
I have fun with my hobbies, and like to share.
My next (working on it right now actually) project is restoring a Springfield M1 Garand.
Mainly putting a finish on the wood as it appears that a previous owner tried to sand it (FYI: Don't sand. Use a scrapper blade as it cuts the wood rather than grind it, and leaves open wood pores for the finish to penetrate), and detail striping to remove all cosmoline, and clean/lube.
Still fun though :D