Semi drop-in barrel fitting question??? [Archive] - Glock Talk

PDA

View Full Version : Semi drop-in barrel fitting question???


h&kbama
01-06-2010, 15:02
I recently purchased a new stainless steel barrel for my Sig P239. When attempting to install it, the top portion of the barrel hood that fits into the slot breach face is too wide. It only needs to be taken down just a bit on each side of the barrel. What is the best way to do this? I have almost $200.00 in the new barrel, and I don't want to butcher-it up. I have basic tools (dremmel etc...). A professional gunsmith would be great, but there aren't any around here, and after Christmas, money is tight. Any helpful input is appreciated. Stay safe.

rgregoryb
01-06-2010, 18:19
a real good file, and go slowly. Place the barrel in the slide and gently tap the bottom of the barrel ...the scuffed area is where you need to file. Did I mention go slowly and remove very little metal at a time.

Jeff82
01-06-2010, 18:24
You need a micrometer and proper stones. Measure the width then stone one side down a set amount. Remove the same amount from the other side, check to ensure you're centered properly, repeat until finished. Better to ease up (left, right, left, right, etc.) to the final measurement, not whack off all one side then the other.

Do you know what tolerances you need?

h&kbama
01-07-2010, 07:29
Jeff82, not sure as to the tolerances. Where can I get the stones & micrometer? Are they expensive? I do have files and a dremmel, would these not be sufficient? I want it done properly not halfway. Thanks yall.

ChaneyD
01-07-2010, 07:38
Jeff82, not sure as to the tolerances. Where can I get the stones & micrometer? Are they expensive? I do have files and a dremmel, would these not be sufficient? I want it done properly not halfway. Thanks yall.

Harbor Freight.

msinc
01-07-2010, 13:43
a real good file, and go slowly. Place the barrel in the slide and gently tap the bottom of the barrel ...the scuffed area is where you need to file. Did I mention go slowly and remove very little metal at a time.

Do not use the Dremel....as above only. You do not need stones and a mic...stones will work but slow. Follow the above quote, when it drops in place with a little tap it is done. There is no rocket science here but alot of "smith's" would have you believe so to justify a high price...I personally dont know how those people sleep at night. It is only going to wear looser when you fire the gun so worrying about extra clearance is like adding wear. Cut off the sides of the hood as noted and you might still have to remove some off the breech. Going slow allows you to get it to just drop in with no extra removed.

h&kbama
01-07-2010, 14:08
I appreciate all of the input. I'll sit down and get to work (slowly) this weekend. Stay safe yall.

Jeff82
01-07-2010, 15:43
If you're gonna go the "scuffed metal" route then get yourself some Dykem Steel Blue layout fluid/pen at a machine shop supply. Use it to see where "wear" is. Depending on metal hardnesses you may or may not see '"scuff marks" reliably. Problem with this is by the time it fits inside you may have already gone too far.

You really need to use a caliper (http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=1&categoryId=19945&categoryString=9315***731***8866***). It's the only way you can accurately remove metal and know if you are close or about to go too far. Measured, controlled steps. "Too far" is bad cause you don't get any "do-overs". You can use a file in place of a stone but you need to be really careful as they can remove metal faster than you expect. Files also make it easy to lose "trueness" of the metal surfaces in relation to each other.

Measure the space for the hood and the hood, subtract, divide by two, factor your tolerance per side, remove that amount from each side, polish (very difficult if you finished with a file).

1006
01-07-2010, 17:42
Just go slow, as said above. A file with a "safe side" will keep you from filing anything other than the hood. If you haven't filed on this sort of thing before, you may want to practice on something first. A good vise with non-marring jaws is needed.

You could mail (U.S. Postal) the slide and barrel to a number of good smiths for a small amount. Only the slide and barrel--so, no need for UPS or Fed-X overnight.

JohnKSa
01-07-2010, 20:52
A quick & dirty alternative to dykem is to use a candle or cigarette lighter to "smoke" the barrel hood and then file/stone the areas where the smoke is scraped off.

h&kbama
01-13-2010, 08:54
UPDATE: I got the barrel hood gently filed/stoned down to where it fits into the slot (top of the breech face) with a little pressure (fits nicely). After puting the weapon together, I can rack the slide, but it is extremely difficult. I took the barrel back out of the weapon and stoned the backside of the feed-ramp a bit. The factory barrel's feed-ramp is rounded on the backside more so than the new barrel. Other than that, does anyone out there have any idea why when assembled it is so difficult to cycle the pistol???? Please help. Thanks.

mdglocker2340
01-13-2010, 12:02
"Smoke" or use the metal dye on the entire barrel assembly. Put it back together and cycle it a few times. Carefully take it apart again and check witness marks. Carefully file down each and then recheck fit. You find it a better idea to function check after placing assembled slide in oven at 155deg for 5 min. I found this process out after my 1911 60% build. My gun would heat up and lock itself closed, or open, until it cooled.

*note* whatever you take off one side you gotta even it out on the other.

JohnKSa
01-13-2010, 19:51
Gotta say that sounds like a lot of fitting for a "semi-drop-in" to me.

h&kbama
01-14-2010, 08:04
No kidding Johnksa. I have never attempted to fit a barrel before, but I believe that I'm well on my way to completing my very 1st one. I am going super slow with the back side of the feed ramp (as not to take too much off). I'll try and keep yall updated as it goes. Hopefully it does not have much more to go. Thanks.