Some 10/22 modifications [Archive] - Glock Talk

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XDRoX
01-10-2010, 01:23
IMO the 10/22 is an awesome little plinker right out of the box. But for little money you can make some drastic improvements to it making it even more fun to shoot.
IMO these few mods will make the gun much easier to use and more fun to shoot.

I'm not a gunsmith so if you attempt to do any of these mods you do so at your own risk.
Also, I didn't invent any of these mods by any means. Most of these I took from rimfirecentral over the years. I just did these mods tonight on a used 10/22 I picked up few weeks ago for $169. It is a basic carbine 10/22. I think the manufacture date was around 1994.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree58.jpg

There are five mods that will really improve any factory stock 10/22.
1. Polishing the internals
2. Modifying the bolt release
3. Changing the magazine release
4. Changing the bolt buffer
5. Changing the extractor

Polishing
There are 3 pieces to polish. Polishing these internals will not lighten the trigger pull. The easiest way to lighten a trigger is to buy an aftermarket hammer. I choose not to replace the hammer in this 10/22 because I use it to teach kids to shoot, and don't mind the 8 lb stock trigger.
On the disconnector I polished one face. The hammer rubs against the disconnector on this face.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree40.jpg

On the hammer I polished one face and the curved end. The flat face is where the hammer makes contact with the bolt and the curved end is where the hammer makes contact with the sear.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree37.jpg

The sear gets polished in 3 places.
This picture shows where the sear makes contact with the hammer.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree44.jpg

This picture shows where the sear makes contact with the disconnector.
I polished the following 2 faces.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree43.jpg

That's all for the polishing. These mods will make the trigger much more crisp and reset better as well. The difference is felt immediately.

XDRoX
01-10-2010, 01:23
Bolt Release
For those of us that have a 10/22, we know that the bolt can be very frustrating to release. For some reason Ruger likes to make you fiddle with a button while pulling on the bolt. This mod makes the rifle act like any other semi-auto rifle, and it is easy to do. You just have to use a dremel to take off some of the material of the bolt release. This picture shows how much you have to take off.
The factory bolt release is on the right.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree52.jpg

Mag Release
I don't have huge hands, but I have a very hard time pushing the small mag release button to take out a mag. So I think an extended mag release button is a must on any 10/22. Lots of companies make these, so just pick one that you like, you really can't go wrong.
The one I installed tonight is made by Butler Creek. I don't know if they still make these (bought this one about 15 years ago) but I like it because it is barely noticeable, but still makes taking the mag out much easier.
You can see it in this photo:
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree55.jpg

Bolt Buffer
You can also see the bolt buffer that I changed as well. This is basically a piece of rubber that replaces a metal pin. Instead of the bolt slamming against metal it hits rubber. This also makes the gun cycle much quieter. The one in this picture is made my Volquartsen, I'm not sure if they still make these, but a company called Tuffer Buffer (http://www.tufferbuffer.com/) makes great ones as well. They cost $7.

XDRoX
01-10-2010, 01:32
Extractor
The last thing I like to change is the extractor. This can help with shell extraction, which sometimes 10/22's don't do as well as they should. With this used 10/22 I was getting about 1 stovepipe every 25 rounds or so. In the past when I changed the extractor, this FTE problem was fixed.
I use an extractor made by Volquartsen like this one here:
http://www.rimfiresports.com/graphics/00000001/t_VC10EE.jpg
It cost $12.

That's it. Hope this helps and hope this makes some old 10/22's run better and stronger than ever before.
A few more pics.
Fully disassembled pieces and my finished product.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree49.jpg

http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree58.jpg

cop414
01-10-2010, 06:49
XDRoX
Great post, you did pretty much what I did to mine that I "kept stock" excdept I did the Power Custom adjustable sear and hammer as well as a new trigger. Mine is the synthetic - stainless version.
One mod that is free which you may want to consider is shooting without the bbl band. If the rifle shoots better without it (mine did) I took my dremel to it and relieved the underside where it touched to bbl. Put back on and it looks no different than before but the band no londer toouches the bbl. As an added bonus the band no oonger marks the bbl when I remove it to clean the gun.

Sgt.
Tim

GSSF17
01-10-2010, 11:16
Excellent info and good posting.

Thanks. :wavey:

Frog1
01-10-2010, 18:21
The cheapest and best mods go along with yours. I bought a Volq target hammer and auto bolt release combo for $35.00 and an extended mag release for $6.00. Best $41.00 dollars I have spent on the rifle. Makes the rifle user friendly and easier to shoot. I was going to replace the barrel, but I don't think I need to now.

Rooster Rugburn
01-10-2010, 18:56
You forgot one. I don't have pictures.

The firing pin is set in a channel and can drift up and strike the round in a manner that will not fire.

You can drive a roll pin into the channel to limit the movement of the firing pin, or, you can drill a horizontal hole just above the firing pin and insert a pin in it. Or, you can pay someone to do it for you.

My 10/22 was ****. Every 3rd round was a misfire. Luckily, a guy at the club told me about the firing pin thing. I sent the bolt off for this:

http://community-2.webtv.net/RandyAtCPC/CPC1022BoltRework/

and now, it's just a jammomatic with feed problems. CPC released me from the FT fire problem, so now I just have to figure out why it jams.

The CPC treatment helped accuracy too.


I've never understood why Ruger hasn't implemented these changes into the design.


Thanks OP for the post. I was about to buy another bolt release. I'll try that first.

ETA: having polished all those trigger assembly parts, I've come to the conclusion it is best just to buy a third party trigger. I polished them all, but it didn't help much.

Rys2k8Altima
01-13-2010, 20:11
I cut the little finger off the bolt release, but It still doesnt release when you pull back on the bolt. Do I need grind a bit more off? other then just the finger that is?

XDRoX
01-13-2010, 22:02
I cut the little finger off the bolt release, but It still doesnt release when you pull back on the bolt. Do I need grind a bit more off? other then just the finger that is?

Yes, if you look at my picture I didn't only take off the finger, I took off a lot more. When you're done you don't even want it to be straight, you want it to be a little curved as shown below. By not taking off enough (which sounds like you did) it will not work correctly.
Hope this helps.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/tree52.jpg

XDRoX
01-13-2010, 22:18
XDRoX
Great post, you did pretty much what I did to mine that I "kept stock" excdept I did the Power Custom adjustable sear and hammer as well as a new trigger. Mine is the synthetic - stainless version.
One mod that is free which you may want to consider is shooting without the bbl band. If the rifle shoots better without it (mine did) I took my dremel to it and relieved the underside where it touched to bbl. Put back on and it looks no different than before but the band no londer toouches the bbl. As an added bonus the band no oonger marks the bbl when I remove it to clean the gun.

Sgt.
Tim

I have heard of taking off the barrel band but never what you did. Very interesting. I will consider it.

Excellent info and good posting.

Thanks. :wavey:

You're welcome.:wavey:

The cheapest and best mods go along with yours. I bought a Volq target hammer and auto bolt release combo for $35.00 and an extended mag release for $6.00. Best $41.00 dollars I have spent on the rifle. Makes the rifle user friendly and easier to shoot. I was going to replace the barrel, but I don't think I need to now.

The hammer is a great mod if you want a lighter trigger, I agree. Money well spent.

You forgot one. I don't have pictures.

The firing pin is set in a channel and can drift up and strike the round in a manner that will not fire.

You can drive a roll pin into the channel to limit the movement of the firing pin, or, you can drill a horizontal hole just above the firing pin and insert a pin in it. Or, you can pay someone to do it for you.

My 10/22 was ****. Every 3rd round was a misfire. Luckily, a guy at the club told me about the firing pin thing. I sent the bolt off for this:

http://community-2.webtv.net/RandyAtCPC/CPC1022BoltRework/

and now, it's just a jammomatic with feed problems. CPC released me from the FT fire problem, so now I just have to figure out why it jams.

The CPC treatment helped accuracy too.


I've never understood why Ruger hasn't implemented these changes into the design.


Thanks OP for the post. I was about to buy another bolt release. I'll try that first.

ETA: having polished all those trigger assembly parts, I've come to the conclusion it is best just to buy a third party trigger. I polished them all, but it didn't help much.

I have read about this mod but never tried it. I don't get very many misfires, but if I do I will certainly try this.

Definitely give it a shot.

Did you try polishing them and adding an after market hammer? On the rifle below I polished all pieces, re-shaped the sear using JB weld and added a Power Custom hammer.
The results are fanominal. But I agree with you. Simply polishing the pieces will not be enough for most target shooters. I wanted to keep the 8lb pull and just clean it up a little.
I've honestly never felt a finer trigger on a rifle than this one has.
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/gy2.jpg

Rys2k8Altima
01-13-2010, 22:34
With a lighter hammer, do you have any light strike issues? I would really like a lighter trigger pull but I dont want to have to worry about having to buy better ammo or a stronger pin spring

Rys2k8Altima
01-13-2010, 22:34
Oh, I did just file that tab off. I guess Ill pull it apart again tomorrow.

XDRoX
01-13-2010, 22:43
With a lighter hammer, do you have any light strike issues? I would really like a lighter trigger pull but I dont want to have to worry about having to buy better ammo or a stronger pin spring

No. The hammer isn't actually lighter, it is just contoured at a different angle making the trigger easier to pull. The same force is still hitting the shell as before. These after market hammers that lessen the trigger pull are really the best mod someone can put on a 10/22. I should have been more specific in my original post about this. A VQ hammer alone will take a trigger from 8 lbs to under 3lbs. That's a huge difference especially when firing from a bench.

Rys2k8Altima
01-13-2010, 22:47
OH! Thats awesome then... I think Ill end up picking one up then. I would really like the trigger pull down to that of my Glock.

XDRoX
01-13-2010, 22:50
One of the only mods that can require you to buy better ammo is a new barrel. Many of the target bull barrels are made with such tight tolerances that cheap ammo can sometimes have trouble feeding. Some of my target 10/22's became very picky with certain cheap bulk ammo after I put a nice barrel on them. That's one of the reasons that I left the rifle in my original post mostly stock. It eats everything and doesn't care what mag I have in it.

XDRoX
01-13-2010, 22:53
OH! Thats awesome then... I think Ill end up picking one up then. I would really like the trigger pull down to that of my Glock.

If you buy this hammer (http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RSC&Product_Code=VC10TH&Category_Code=R1A) and polish the pieces, the trigger will blow your glock away. You don't need to use the springs. Keep the original ones. You can use the shims if you think you need them.
http://www.rimfiresports.com/graphics/00000001/10-22tgthmr.jpg

Rys2k8Altima
01-14-2010, 09:21
So dont use the springs then?

XDRoX
01-14-2010, 10:54
So dont use the springs then?

Don't use them. The stock ones are better.

GSSF17
01-14-2010, 18:33
Don't use them. The stock ones are better.

I have tried both ways, and I have to respectfully disagree. Try it with the stock springs, then with the kit springs. I prefer the springs that came with the kit over stock.

just my .02 :whistling:

XDRoX
01-14-2010, 20:39
I have tried both ways, and I have to respectfully disagree. Try it with the stofck springs, then with the kit springs. I prefer the springs that came with the kit over stock.

just my .02 :whistling:

I have actually never tried the VQ springs, so thank you for the post. I was simply stating what I have read for years at rimfirecentral. Back when I was into this stuff the consensus was to always use the stock springs, so that's why I posted what I did.
What exactly about the VQ springs did you like better?

Rooster Rugburn
01-14-2010, 22:23
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/gy2.jpg


That's a sweet rifle.


All I did to the trigger parts was stone them smooth. I bought it with the idea of tricking it out, and got frustrated with all the problems that comes with the rifle. I have a Weatherby MKXXII that is a same hole shooter I use for accuracy shooting. When a 40 year old stock rifle shoots as well as the Weatherby does, and the 10/22 has been such a piece of manure, I really don't have much interest in doing anything with the Ruger.

The 10-22 has been such a piece of junk, I'll wait and see if I can eliminate all the problems in feeding, firing, and magazines, then I might start tricking it out. But that will mean a 3rd party trigger assembly. I figure the fewer Ruger parts the better.

Rooster Rugburn
01-15-2010, 00:21
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/gy2.jpg



I like this one owned by XDRoX.

XDRoX
01-15-2010, 11:12
I like this one owned by XDRoX.

Thanks. I don't have any good pictures of my other ones. Here's an alright picture of one of them:
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/gun%20pics/w8.jpg

Rys2k8Altima
01-15-2010, 21:07
One more quick question... Where does the trigger group get lubed at?

Rooster Rugburn
01-16-2010, 13:09
Thanks. I don't have any good pictures of my other ones. Here's an alright picture of one of them:
http://members.cox.net/chrismosteller/gun%20pics/w8.jpg


Not a big fan of synthethic stocks.


Oddly enough, my post about "I like this one owned by XCRoX" was intended to be in a 10-22 pic thread in general firearms forum. I guess I missed the step of copying the link to the other thread.

That laminated stock has me foaming at the mouth. Mine has a birch stock, and isn't bad. But I was wanting something different. If I can ever get mine to shoot reliably, I might try that stock.

SD Handgunner
01-17-2010, 13:25
You guys may also want to consider another modification that really helps in smoother cycling.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251031 is a posting with photos on how to do this simple modification. I have done this (as well as Trigger Jobs) on a half dozen different 10/22's for friends of mine and they all say they can not believe how much better, smoother the bolt cycles on their 10/22's.

Larry

CMG
01-17-2010, 14:30
Ron's reason for that mod was actually to allow the 10/22 to cycle reliably with standard velocity ammo. If you are going to shoot a steady diet of high-velocity ammo, that mod can be harder on the action... if you do it, I'd strongly suggest you replace the bolt buffer with a synthetic one, to fore-stall any wear issues.

All of mine have the hammer faces polished their full-length and the rear bottom edge of the bolt slightly rounded and polished. That will offer a smoother feel as well.

All my 10/22s have synthetic buffers as well, just because they are simple and inexpensive.

Rooster Rugburn
01-17-2010, 14:52
You guys may also want to consider another modification that really helps in smoother cycling.


CPC did that to my bolt as part of their bolt package. That and the Tuffer Buffer do make a difference.

An odd thing too, was that after CPC reworked my bolt, it still had light strikes and misfired. I ordered another Ruger firing pin and there was a noticeable difference in the two.

As insurance, I stoned the back of the bolt to take some material off and give it a little more depth to the firing pin strike. That got it. It's finally firing consistently. I put a 400 rounds through it this weekend with only 4 misfires. With bulk pack ammo, I am almost inclined to blame those 4 rounds. I am going to take a little more off the back of the bolt.

(maybe another mod here)

Now I have to address feed jams on a couple mags. Apparently magazines can be too tight and cause problems. If a mag doesn't drop free, and these don't, they are too tight and cause feed jams. Some people are RFC suggest sanding the mag well on the rifle, but since the factory mag drops free, I think I'll just sand the mag body itself.


In my numerous searching for answer to the Ruger junk question, I found a post, I think at RFC, where as guy was saying to round off the top and bottom of the firing pin. He said one of the first things he learned in gunsmithing was that you don't want a big square block hitting the rim. I haven't tried that, but it was an interesting suggestion.

Rooster Rugburn
01-17-2010, 15:02
One more quick question... Where does the trigger group get lubed at?

I don't claim to be the most knowledgeable, but I would say where moving parts contact each other and still parts. For instance, where the trigger housing makes contact with the sear, disconnector etc. And the bushings on the hammer.

They don't tell here, but there is good info as to the types of lube to use.

http://ruger22.com/newpages/lube.htm

Rooster Rugburn
01-23-2010, 15:48
The cheapest and best mods go along with yours. I bought a Volq target hammer and auto bolt release combo for $35.00 and an extended mag release for $6.00. Best $41.00 dollars I have spent on the rifle. Makes the rifle user friendly and easier to shoot. I was going to replace the barrel, but I don't think I need to now.


You aren't kidding. I just put that kit on mine and it makes it much better.

To add a mod, there is a procedure for stoning the hammer and having the same results at no charge, if someone really likes to tinker. There is a thread at RFC

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122386&highlight=cletus+hungwell

There are a LOT more tips here:


http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251035