Sharpener?????????????? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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Carolina Drifter
01-13-2010, 16:03
What's the best pull thru sharpener for SS blades.

Gokyo
01-14-2010, 09:50
sharpmaker (spiderco) is the best sharpener I have ever owned. I am not sure it will suit your needs

Legion Etrangere
01-14-2010, 10:50
sharpmaker (spiderco) is the best sharpener I have ever owned. I am not sure it will suit your needs



I second that^. Will sharpen both plain and serrated blades.

cziv
01-14-2010, 11:28
+3 on the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I bought the diamond rods too, for damaged or reprofiling blades. Don't forget to buy a decent cheap strop (http://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html) too, I love mine for polishing the edge after sharpening. :supergrin:

Carolina Drifter
01-14-2010, 11:47
Thanks Folks, I will look into it right away. :wavey:

MURRAY
01-14-2010, 11:52
yep for the money get the sharpmaker I have water stones all sorts of other items also I still use the SM the most for sure

TheLastDaze
01-14-2010, 21:07
you're trying to tell me this SM is better then stones??

ctaggart
01-14-2010, 21:09
I'm a very big fan on lanskey, have heard nothing but good things about the Sharpmaker.

Whatever you choose...do not use a carbide pull through. It WILL ruin your knife blade.

c5367
01-14-2010, 21:16
has anyone mentioned the Spydie Sharpmaker?


I have it, and a lansky pro kit. I haven't used the lansky since I bought the sharpmaker.

theghostrider
01-15-2010, 02:33
has anyone mentioned the Spydie Sharpmaker?


I have it, and a lansky pro kit. I haven't used the lansky since I bought the sharpmaker.

That is a common malady.

MURRAY
01-15-2010, 18:37
the Lansky and Craco(spelling) ones are not bad either I just like the sharpmaker over all else I have tried

w4004p
01-15-2010, 21:41
i just got the Spyderco Sharpmaker, for Christmas, after using a Lansky for years.

i have mixed feelings on the Sharpmaker - some of my knives it will get perfectly sharp. however, it really only seems to work with three of my knives, all Benchmades and all relatively sharp already. every other knife i've tried to sharpen, it will NOT TOUCH. now, i don't have the diamond rods, just the basic kit, but i'll work a blade on the coarse rod FOREVER and nothing :(

theghostrider
01-16-2010, 00:15
i just got the Spyderco Sharpmaker, for Christmas, after using a Lansky for years.

i have mixed feelings on the Sharpmaker - some of my knives it will get perfectly sharp. however, it really only seems to work with three of my knives, all Benchmades and all relatively sharp already. every other knife i've tried to sharpen, it will NOT TOUCH. now, i don't have the diamond rods, just the basic kit, but i'll work a blade on the coarse rod FOREVER and nothing :(

The Sharpmaker is designed to keep knives sharp. Not sharpen dull knives. If a knife is too dull, the rods (they are medium, not coarse. And even then they don't remove much metal) will take forever to get it sharp. This may sound bad, but the good side of the equation is that this is precisely why it can get knives so sharp. If it was coarse enough to do what you want from it right now, then it could only put a coarse edge on the knives, and they wouldn't get nearly as sharp as they can get when used properly (not very difficult).

What your describing is exactly what the Sharpmaker excels at. That is why most people who get the Sharpmaker eventually find themselves using the Lansky less. The Lansky is good for setting a new bevel, but the Sharpmaker helps so that the Lansky is rarely needed.

Chances are you aren't even hitting the edge with the hones. This is experienced by many new Sharpmaker owners. A good method to try is the magic marker trick. Take a magic marker, and color the edge bevel in until completely black. Then run a few passes down the rods, checking between each pass to see where the ink is being removed. That's were your removing the metal from. Where the ink remains is the area not being hit by the rods.

Another thing new owners discover is that not all knives have the same bevel angle that the Sharpmaker sharpens at, so they need to re profile the edge.

Be patient. It's just like people shooting low left with a Glock. Chances are it's the user rather than the equipment. Just be patient and look to the long term benefit. Sharpmaker users regularly walk around with knives that are sharp enough to shave with. Chances are it's just a matter of finding the way out of the mouse trap.

I've had knives that the Sharpmaker wouldn't help. Rather than continuing to run them down the rods, I found tools that were better suited to removing metal faster than the Sharpmaker rods. I'd use those to knock the bevel angle back down, and then with that done, transfer them over to the Sharpmaker.

Learning to sharpen is a process, and part of that is taking the time to practice and develop the skills. There are knife afi forums where you can probably get even better advice/help. Spyderco factory forums, bladeforums, knifeforums. Go visit them and seek advice from people much more skilled than I.

The Sharpmaker is a good tool that is easy to use for a beginner (Me at one time). I actually had someone sharpen his knife on his Edgepro, to the best of his ability to show me how it looked off that kit. I wouldn't say it did a bad job, but the Sharpmaker put a keener edge on my knife than he had on his. Mind you, he's happy with the edge he can put on his knife. I almost felt guilty showing him what my Sharpmaker can do, but I don't think it made him less happy.

Like most things, you get out of it what you put into it, only with the Sharpmaker, it isn't so much effort once you get the hang of it.

Here's more if this post wasn't too long.

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39764

w4004p
01-16-2010, 17:39
The Sharpmaker is designed to keep knives sharp. Not sharpen dull knives. If a knife is too dull, the rods (they are medium, not coarse. And even then they don't remove much metal) will take forever to get it sharp. This may sound bad, but the good side of the equation is that this is precisely why it can get knives so sharp. If it was coarse enough to do what you want from it right now, then it could only put a coarse edge on the knives, and they wouldn't get nearly as sharp as they can get when used properly (not very difficult).

What your describing is exactly what the Sharpmaker excels at. That is why most people who get the Sharpmaker eventually find themselves using the Lansky less. The Lansky is good for setting a new bevel, but the Sharpmaker helps so that the Lansky is rarely needed.

Chances are you aren't even hitting the edge with the hones. This is experienced by many new Sharpmaker owners. A good method to try is the magic marker trick. Take a magic marker, and color the edge bevel in until completely black. Then run a few passes down the rods, checking between each pass to see where the ink is being removed. That's were your removing the metal from. Where the ink remains is the area not being hit by the rods.

Another thing new owners discover is that not all knives have the same bevel angle that the Sharpmaker sharpens at, so they need to re profile the edge.

Be patient. It's just like people shooting low left with a Glock. Chances are it's the user rather than the equipment. Just be patient and look to the long term benefit. Sharpmaker users regularly walk around with knives that are sharp enough to shave with. Chances are it's just a matter of finding the way out of the mouse trap.

I've had knives that the Sharpmaker wouldn't help. Rather than continuing to run them down the rods, I found tools that were better suited to removing metal faster than the Sharpmaker rods. I'd use those to knock the bevel angle back down, and then with that done, transfer them over to the Sharpmaker.

Learning to sharpen is a process, and part of that is taking the time to practice and develop the skills. There are knife afi forums where you can probably get even better advice/help. Spyderco factory forums, bladeforums, knifeforums. Go visit them and seek advice from people much more skilled than I.

The Sharpmaker is a good tool that is easy to use for a beginner (Me at one time). I actually had someone sharpen his knife on his Edgepro, to the best of his ability to show me how it looked off that kit. I wouldn't say it did a bad job, but the Sharpmaker put a keener edge on my knife than he had on his. Mind you, he's happy with the edge he can put on his knife. I almost felt guilty showing him what my Sharpmaker can do, but I don't think it made him less happy.

Like most things, you get out of it what you put into it, only with the Sharpmaker, it isn't so much effort once you get the hang of it.

Here's more if this post wasn't too long.

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39764


yes, this is exactly what i was thinking - if i had the diamond rods. i made a mistake when i said "coarse", i remembered (after u mentioned it) that it comes with medium and fine. which is what irks me, i don't mind having to buy the diamond stones separate, but they should fit in the box. i mean it's pitched as a complete sharpening system, fine and medium is not complete. as for it being for keeping knives sharp and not for sharpening dull knives, that's the general opinion i've gotten off everybody who used one before me. however, when i watch their little informercial, they take a DULL knife and make it SHARP.

i like the system, i just think there should be a coarser rod included.

theghostrider
01-16-2010, 18:31
yes, this is exactly what i was thinking - if i had the diamond rods. i made a mistake when i said "coarse", i remembered (after u mentioned it) that it comes with medium and fine. which is what irks me, i don't mind having to buy the diamond stones separate, but they should fit in the box. i mean it's pitched as a complete sharpening system, fine and medium is not complete. as for it being for keeping knives sharp and not for sharpening dull knives, that's the general opinion i've gotten off everybody who used one before me. however, when i watch their little informercial, they take a DULL knife and make it SHARP.

i like the system, i just think there should be a coarser rod included.
I know what your saying about the demo. Me thinks it was very soft steel, and probably not so dull. You'll understand once you get there. Lot's of people carry knives that aren't all that sharp, yet sharp enough for their liking. The Sharpmaker takes it to a different level.

mitchshrader
01-16-2010, 18:31
No, a sharpmaker won't teach you to sharpen. Nor is it better than bench stones (of any quality, natural or synthetic).

A Norton 1000/4000 combo synthetic waterstone is a good beginners rock, as you'll wear out the 1000 side in a couple years and by then your skill will exceed the utility of that hone.

A good rock is a belgian 10x3 BBW, just under 100$ and fast on big knives.

A better rock is a coticule, cream colored, rare, expensive, and ultra-fine grit...and STILL faster than you think it ought to be.

A DMT diamond Duo-Sharp has a different grit on each side, and Fine/ExtraFine will save lots of time. Nearly as fast as a waterwheel.

Use the duo sharp to do the first 85%, the big belgian blue to do the next 10% and the coticule to do the last 5% (going by time)

and you'll have a knife that will cut a free hanging hair. That is *sharp*, and bragworthy from now on. You can learn in an afternoon, and keep improving thereafter.

within reach are two straight razors, an endura in ZDP-189, a dozier thorn in d2, two david farmer small fixed blades in O1, a kiridashi in blue steel, a carbon steel letter opener, an arkansas lily white (>80 yrs old) a 6x1.5 hard arkansas, a 3x1/2x1/8 translucent burnishing stone..

and the waterstones are all around the kitchen sink, not but a few steps away. these arkansas stones are used for polishing and burnishing after most of the sharpening is done.

cziv
01-16-2010, 20:27
Watch these and save money!

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaDEXuFpeac

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBBK-8tgmNI

I do this and I use a strop (http://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html)to finish off with easy-peasy!

skippz
01-20-2010, 05:26
has anyone owned or used the Wicked Edge sharpening system? Its pricey so I would like some feedback on it before purchasing one. There's some videos on youtube and they look pretty uncanny.

dne752
01-20-2010, 05:44
Great info!!!

cziv
01-20-2010, 09:17
The Wicked Edge sharpening system would make a wicked dent in your wallet. Have you looked at a Spyderco Sharpmaker (most popular sysem around) at about $50 delivered at Amazon?

Sharpening a knife is not rocket science, it just takes a little practise and offers so much enjoyment when you've learned how to do it.

I'd like to say though - whatever is best for you is the best way! :)

skippz
01-20-2010, 12:54
The Wicked Edge sharpening system would make a wicked dent in your wallet. Have you looked at a Spyderco Sharpmaker (most popular sysem around) at about $50 delivered at Amazon?

Sharpening a knife is not rocket science, it just takes a little practise and offers so much enjoyment when you've learned how to do it.

I'd like to say though - whatever is best for you is the best way! :)

Yes I actually own & use a sharpmaker & love it!!! Sometimes however, as previously posted, it doesn't get the job done w/ certain knives (for instance my emerson cqc8 and a few others) and I was curious if the wicked edge was that much better for the HUGE price tag and if it filled the gap.

cziv
01-20-2010, 18:10
Yeah I know what you mean. I have two blades that I just can't get done right on the Sharpmaker. I checked out the Wicked Edge, but didn't buy it because it was too expensive. How about DMT kit? (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKM41S/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000ARKABW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ERT8XG3B92HAW61HSA0)

mitchshrader
01-20-2010, 22:39
aargh. why reject waterstones just because people have been using them since STEEL?

Do you think folks who sharpen straight razors are unconcerned or incompetent? You can buy one belgian 2x8 natural combo stone for 4x what a sharpmaker costs and sharpen everything but your lawnmower blade with it the next 4o years, and then leave it to the grandkid you like best. I have dozens of burnished, mirror edge, hairsplitting sharp knives for evidence. They don't GET better than that.

cziv
01-21-2010, 01:16
mitchshrader,

The OP is looking for a "pull through sharpening system" not a course in free hand sharpening.

I hear you loud and clear but was responding to that question and then another about the locking, adjustable, bevel grinders like the Lansky, DMT Wicked Edge, etc.

Hell, the videos I posted on mousepad sharpening will get you a beautiful edge too. Just sayin...

skippz
01-21-2010, 03:51
aargh. why reject waterstones just because people have been using them since STEEL?

Do you think folks who sharpen straight razors are unconcerned or incompetent? You can buy one belgian 2x8 natural combo stone for 4x what a sharpmaker costs and sharpen everything but your lawnmower blade with it the next 4o years, and then leave it to the grandkid you like best. I have dozens of burnished, mirror edge, hairsplitting sharp knives for evidence. They don't GET better than that.

My grandfather used to say place 2 pennies between the knife and the benchstone and that would set your edge for sharpening, and he was right it works great on Case XX knives, but what about heavier tool and carbon steel, I mean I'm sure they work but I can't seem to get down the edge angle w/ a benchstone, maybe I'm just not practicing enough I donno.

theghostrider
01-21-2010, 09:41
My grandfather used to say place 2 pennies between the knife and the benchstone and that would set your edge for sharpening, and he was right it works great on Case XX knives, but what about heavier tool and carbon steel, I mean I'm sure they work but I can't seem to get down the edge angle w/ a benchstone, maybe I'm just not practicing enough I donno.

It takes practice. I started with a Smith's kit when I was about twelve, and never did get a decent edge with free hand because I couldn't hold a consistent angle. When i got back into knives a while back I bought a Lansky and managed to get decent edges with it. Then I bought a Sharpmaker, and wondered why I waited so long to get one.

A lot of people who talk about free hand don't (for flat or convex bevels) talk more about how much easier, or how much better it is than a kit. Not everyone has those skills, and developing them is not always easy. It takes time and practice, and can be difficult for someone new to it.

Look how some people have difficulty with the Sharpmaker. There is no reason why the SM can't sharpen some of their knives, but not others. It's just that they haven't figured out "why", yet.

It's a matter of "feeling" the edge, and I've started to develop that when I first got into Mora knives. Sharpening that high, Scandi grind allowed me to practice those skills on a cheap knife that had a high enough grind that I could easier know when I was off. I still haven't gotten there completely, but I'm much closer than I was

theghostrider
01-21-2010, 12:02
Yes I actually own & use a sharpmaker & love it!!! Sometimes however, as previously posted, it doesn't get the job done w/ certain knives (for instance my emerson cqc8 and a few others) and I was curious if the wicked edge was that much better for the HUGE price tag and if it filled the gap. Yeah I know what you mean. I have two blades that I just can't get done right on the Sharpmaker. I checked out the Wicked Edge, but didn't buy it because it was too expensive. How about DMT kit? (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKM41S/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000ARKABW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ERT8XG3B92HAW61HSA0)

Have you people tried the magic marker trick yet to determine if you’re actually “hitting” the edge of the blade? There is no reason the Sharpmaker shouldn’t work, and not hitting the edge can sometimes be the problem. Some knives do not come from the factory with a low enough angle for the Sharpmaker. There’s no reason it shouldn’t work for other knives.

If you want to believe that the Sharpmaker won’t work for certain knives, and can find a better way, fine. “Do what you gotta do.” However, there is no reason the Sharpmaker can’t work on Benchmades, or Emersons. It’s more a matter of figuring out, “why it isn’t working”, rather than figuring out that, “it doesn’t work”.

I sharpened my Emerson on my Sharpmaker (this after putting chips in the edge during use), and while not as sharp as I’d like it to be, it does shave hair off my arm. Remember, the Emersons are usually chisel ground, which means that has to be compensated for when using the Sharpmaker.

Help is available if you want to figure out what the problem is.

cziv
01-21-2010, 12:52
It’s more a matter of figuring out, “why it isn’t working”, rather than figuring out that, “it doesn’t work”.

I totally agree. I've been re-hashing advice from Blade Forums, personal experience etc. and last night I put a 40* over the top of the 30* angle I had on them. It was too obtuse for my taste.

I slapped in the 30* slots again (didn't use the diamond rods at all) and I think I had a burr, removed that - put the 30* again.

I finished with a lot of stropping with the green compound, the 710 & the 940 just glide over the hair on my arm but won't cut one. :faint:

It’s more a matter of figuring out, “why it isn’t working”, rather than figuring out that, “it doesn’t work”.

Limeguy24
01-21-2010, 12:55
The hunter honer

cziv
01-21-2010, 13:14
The hunter honer


I don't carry butcher knives, filet knives, machetes and hatchets - or scissors. I cringe at the thought of running a $150 blade through one.

:poke:

TnShooter83
01-21-2010, 21:27
If you have extra cash, just go ahead and get an EdgePro System.
You will not regret it. Be warned it is pricey, but so are Glocks compared to other pistols.

w4004p
01-23-2010, 02:44
Have you people tried the magic marker trick yet to determine if you’re actually “hitting” the edge of the blade? There is no reason the Sharpmaker shouldn’t work, and not hitting the edge can sometimes be the problem. Some knives do not come from the factory with a low enough angle for the Sharpmaker. There’s no reason it shouldn’t work for other knives.

If you want to believe that the Sharpmaker won’t work for certain knives, and can find a better way, fine. “Do what you gotta do.” However, there is no reason the Sharpmaker can’t work on Benchmades, or Emersons. It’s more a matter of figuring out, “why it isn’t working”, rather than figuring out that, “it doesn’t work”.

I sharpened my Emerson on my Sharpmaker (this after putting chips in the edge during use), and while not as sharp as I’d like it to be, it does shave hair off my arm. Remember, the Emersons are usually chisel ground, which means that has to be compensated for when using the Sharpmaker.

Help is available if you want to figure out what the problem is.

i understand steel and removing it. i know about creating and removing a burr and all that also. since my last post, i've used the Sharpmaker several more times. i can honestly say, i am not impressed with it. i DO understand "why it isn't working" - with the supplied stones, it simply cannot remove enough steel to change the existing angle without days of stroking. NO, i'm not "hitting the edge", on some knives, and never will with the coarsest stone supplied. i'll get the diamond rods and give it another day in court, but i believe it is important for people to realize - it is not the complete kit it's pitched as.

to anyone considering a Sharpmaker: if you're attempting to sharpen a knife that already has a 40* angle, it'll work great. if not, eat your wheaties because you're gonna be working on it all day.

edit to add - having used both, i would recommend the Lansky

theghostrider
01-23-2010, 09:32
i understand steel and removing it. i know about creating and removing a burr and all that also. since my last post, i've used the Sharpmaker several more times. i can honestly say, i am not impressed with it. i DO understand "why it isn't working" - with the supplied stones, it simply cannot remove enough steel to change the existing angle without days of stroking. NO, i'm not "hitting the edge", on some knives, and never will with the coarsest stone supplied. i'll get the diamond rods and give it another day in court, but i believe it is important for people to realize - it is not the complete kit it's pitched as.

to anyone considering a Sharpmaker: if you're attempting to sharpen a knife that already has a 40* angle, it'll work great. if not, eat your wheaties because you're gonna be working on it all day.

edit to add - having used both, i would recommend the Lansky


Yeah, your right about that. The Sharpmaker is mainly for keeping knives sharp. If your knife is beyond that, then it will take some time before even comming close. Your better off using something else to set a new bevel at a lower angle. I've used the Lanskky to grind the bevel down at times when it's needed, whereas the Sharpmaker rods just aren't coarse enough to do that. I've even had some knives that the Sharpmaker diamond rods didn't do the job, and had to use the Lansky. Now days when I need to perform stock removal, I usually use a diamond hone of some sort. I have a three hone set from Harbor freight, and a oval diamond rod from Eze-Lap, and both methods have served me well enough. Many people swear by the DMT products.

Your right that it isn't the "do all" kit, and the video certainly makes it look easy. It is easy once you reset the bevel. However, once you do reset the bevel, it makes it easy to put pretty good edges on a knife, as well as maintain those edges so that you don't have to keep resetting the bevel. It's easier to keep a knife sharp, than it is to take a dull knife and make it sharp.

cziv
01-23-2010, 11:14
I used the Sharpie and re-set (I think?) the factory bevels to 30* (15* & 15* settting) on my two BM knives - a 940 w/S30V and 710 w/D2 - using the diamond rods first.

I could visibly see what appeared to be a new grind. The knives are very sharp but not as sharp as they were from the factory.

As much as I loathe guided systems, I think I'll have to either buy one or find someone to set them exactly.

I agree that the Sharpmaker is good but it isn't "all that" and shouldn't be relied on if you're someone like me, that insists on shaving sharp edges.

theghostrider
01-23-2010, 12:35
I used the Sharpie and re-set (I think?) the factory bevels to 30* (15* & 15* settting) on my two BM knives - a 940 w/S30V and 710 w/D2 - using the diamond rods first.

I could visibly see what appeared to be a new grind. The knives are very sharp but not as sharp as they were from the factory.

As much as I loathe guided systems, I think I'll have to either buy one or find someone to set them exactly.

I agree that the Sharpmaker is good but it isn't "all that" and shouldn't be relied on if you're someone like me, that insists on shaving sharp edges.

I agree that the Sharpmaker isn't good at stock removal, but I assure you, I get knives shaving sharp on my Sharpmaker whenever I need to. OTOH, I've also done so on the Lansky.

Nowadays, I usually free hand for stock removal graduating to finer grits. When done with that, I go to the Sharpmaker for final touch. Maybe even a strop after that.

ETA:
I should point out that when I use diamonds for stock removal, my freehand skills (or lack thereof) leave some of the ugliest edges known to man. But after finishing with the Sharpmaker, they still make hair jump off my arm.:supergrin:

cziv
01-23-2010, 13:42
theghostrider

What knives and steel grades are you referring to exactly, that you're getting these amazing results with? Just curious. :)

theghostrider
01-23-2010, 19:12
theghostrider

What knives and steel grades are you referring to exactly, that you're getting these amazing results with? Just curious. :)

Let’s see.

byrds
Meadowlark G10 (8Cr13MoV)
Meadowlark SS (8Cr13MoV)
Cara Cara SS (8Cr13MoV)
Crossbill SS (8Cr13MoV)
Crossbill G-10 (8Cr13MoV)
Raven (8Cr13MoV)
Robin SS (8Cr13MoV)
Flight G10 (8Cr13MoV)

A couple of the Crossbills gave me trouble because the byrd steel is so hard (Sal Glesser reported that the byrd steel tested at 61hrc.), and the shape of the hawkbill made it difficult for me. Because of this I actually used the Lansky for the initial stage of setting the bevel. After that it was Sharpmaker all the way. The other byrds didn’t present as much of a problem.


Spyderco
Endura 3 (VG-10)
Waved Endura 4 (VG-10)
Delica 3 (VG-10)
Rescue Jr (VG-10)
Native 3 (VG-10)
Yojimbo (S30V)
Merlin (AUS8) (although it was just to put a higher polish on the factory edge.
Salt I (H1)
Tasman Salt (H1)
The Delica 3, and the Salt I came with edges that weren’t up to my standards, and the Sharpmaker wasn’t doing it, so I had to use the diamond rods at first. After that, no problem. The Waved Endura, and the Yojimbo both were used and had poor edges when I got them. I rebeveled them on either the Harbor Freight diamond hones, or the Gerber 3-n-1 sharpener. After that, it was to the Sharpmaker for the final finishing touches. By the time I needed to set a new bevel on the Tasman, I had obtained a 12” oval diamond rod from Eze-Lap and it worked great.

Timberline
Vallotton Liner Lock (AUS8)
Wortac (AUS8)
Vallotton Signature Assisted (AUS8)


Kershaw
Leek (440A)
Whirlwind (440A)

Camillus
Sizzle (AUS8)

Boker Plus
Subcom F (420J2)
Subcom F (AUS8)
Trance (AUS8)

Emerson
SOCFK (154CM)

Mora
Mora 2000
Craftsman Triflex
Both of these are only a slight touch up after free hand.

A Western hunting knife (carbon steel).

A set of the Farberware kitchen knives, including the Farberware meat cleaver.

A F. Dick 10” Chef’s Knife.

A set of Wusthof Trident kitchen knives.

There may be more, but that about what I can think of now.

And OBTW, the results aren't all that amazing. Lots of Sharpmaker users experience the same or similar. Some even experience better.

If if you haven't yet, you should read the thread in the link I provide earlier in this thread.

lethal tupperwa
01-23-2010, 19:43
Most people do more Damage with a stone than they do good.

It takes knowledge and the right touch.

My brother can sharpen a knife in less than a minute

it will shave like a razor.

He says it takes longer to remove the damage people have done trying

to sharpen their blades than to actually sharpen one.

That said,

http://www.v-sharp.com/

cziv
01-23-2010, 19:57
theghostrider,

Wow that's pretty inclusive. I'm familiar with all of those steels except H1 - don't remember much about it.

That said, all of those steels with the exception of S30V, are noted for their exceptional abilities to take a screaming sharp edge.

S30V with it's high edge retention is very difficult to sharpen (for many of us) w/o a lot of expertise and I read that one should put a lower angle of edge on it due to this (edge retention) or why bother having it.

AUS8, VG10, D2, even VG1 are pretty simple to sharpen. VG1 is damn hard for me anyway.

I finally got my Benchmade 940 w/S30V scalpel sharp about an hour ago br profiling it gently and thorughly to 25* inclusive bevel and then a light stropping to remove any burr.

You'll never guess what I used!! Right here http://www.edgemakerpro.com/index.html - my wife's kitchen knife sharpener! I took a deep breath and said what the hell and man, it's popping hair of my arm now. :rock:

Davegrave
01-23-2010, 19:57
No, a sharpmaker won't teach you to sharpen. Nor is it better than bench stones (of any quality, natural or synthetic).

A Norton 1000/4000 combo synthetic waterstone is a good beginners rock, as you'll wear out the 1000 side in a couple years and by then your skill will exceed the utility of that hone.

A good rock is a belgian 10x3 BBW, just under 100$ and fast on big knives.

A better rock is a coticule, cream colored, rare, expensive, and ultra-fine grit...and STILL faster than you think it ought to be.

A DMT diamond Duo-Sharp has a different grit on each side, and Fine/ExtraFine will save lots of time. Nearly as fast as a waterwheel.

Use the duo sharp to do the first 85%, the big belgian blue to do the next 10% and the coticule to do the last 5% (going by time)

and you'll have a knife that will cut a free hanging hair. That is *sharp*, and bragworthy from now on. You can learn in an afternoon, and keep improving thereafter.

within reach are two straight razors, an endura in ZDP-189, a dozier thorn in d2, two david farmer small fixed blades in O1, a kiridashi in blue steel, a carbon steel letter opener, an arkansas lily white (>80 yrs old) a 6x1.5 hard arkansas, a 3x1/2x1/8 translucent burnishing stone..

and the waterstones are all around the kitchen sink, not but a few steps away. these arkansas stones are used for polishing and burnishing after most of the sharpening is done.

No joke man, If for any reason I'm ever going to end up in Tulsa I'm going to PM you and beg for a few hours of your time.
Every time I read your posts about knife sharpening I think "man, I wanna be THAT guy".

theghostrider
01-23-2010, 21:23
theghostrider,

Wow that's pretty inclusive. I'm familiar with all of those steels except H1 - don't remember much about it.

That said, all of those steels with the exception of S30V, are noted for their exceptional abilities to take a screaming sharp edge.

S30V with it's high edge retention is very difficult to sharpen (for many of us) w/o a lot of expertise and I read that one should put a lower angle of edge on it due to this (edge retention) or why bother having it.

AUS8, VG10, D2, even VG1 are pretty simple to sharpen. VG1 is damn hard for me anyway.

I finally got my Benchmade 940 w/S30V scalpel sharp about an hour ago br profiling it gently and thorughly to 25* inclusive bevel and then a light stropping to remove any burr.

You'll never guess what I used!! Right here http://www.edgemakerpro.com/index.html - my wife's kitchen knife sharpener! I took a deep breath and said what the hell and man, it's popping hair of my arm now. :rock:My understanding is that those pull through jobs chip the edge. I've used them in the past to get shaving edges, but that's what people say I suppose.

The Yojimbo was the only time I ever tried to sharpen S30V. Like I said, I had to use the diamond hones to get the bevel down, then went to the Sharpmaker.

...and I read that one should put a lower angle of edge on it due to this (edge retention) or why bother having it The same can be said for 154CM, VG-10 (I've no experience or knowledge of VG1).

I'm not saying I've never had problems (and I am still working on my free hand), but once I figure out what I'm doing wrong, it's easier with the SM. Usually the problem is either too much pressure, or just not hitting the edge because the bevel is too high.

cziv
01-23-2010, 22:25
I hear ya theghostrider My understanding is that those pull through jobs chip the edge.

I chipped an edge once with it by putting too much pressure on - the rods "chatter" and ding the edge. This time I went super slow and methodically - loooow pressure - and no chips.


Usually the problem is either too much pressure, or just not hitting the edge because the bevel is too high.


This happens with some Benchmade models, like the 940's the edge's grind line is hardly visible, very abrupt. My BM Griptilians use 154CM & S30V and have steep, wicked factory grinds.

Off Topic sorry:

Nothing, IMHO is ground like Spyderco's out of the box - all of my Spydies have had long flat grinds, Police 3 G-10, Military G-10, Endura 4 G-10 & more. All real scalpels! I love 'em!!

I just ordered the new Spyderco Mule Team on their site, and have to get the scales and a sheath ordered Monday.

It should fit right in with my Streat Beat, RAT Izula, RAT RC-3 MIL for a nice fixed blade carry.

theghostrider
01-24-2010, 00:10
I hear ya theghostrider

I chipped an edge once with it by putting too much pressure on - the rods "chatter" and ding the edge. This time I went super slow and methodically - loooow pressure - and no chips.



This happens with some Benchmade models, like the 940's the edge's grind line is hardly visible, very abrupt. My BM Griptilians use 154CM & S30V and have steep, wicked factory grinds.

Off Topic sorry:

Nothing, IMHO is ground like Spyderco's out of the box - all of my Spydies have had long flat grinds, Police 3 G-10, Military G-10, Endura 4 G-10 & more. All real scalpels! I love 'em!!

I just ordered the new Spyderco Mule Team on their site, and have to get the scales and a sheath ordered Monday.

It should fit right in with my Streat Beat, RAT Izula, RAT RC-3 MIL for a nice fixed blade carry.

That may be why I didn't get bad results from mine. I would use just enough pressure to hold the blade upright. I use to use a Lansky, but didn't like setting it up everyday, so I would use one of those Rapala pull throughs to do touch ups.

As for the BM grinds. Sal said in the video that some manufactures aren't as careful about the grinds as they are. That doesn't mean you can knock it down yourself. If I get a knife that doesn't have a low enough grind when I first get it, I do it myself.

mitchshrader
01-24-2010, 00:22
a 'pull through sharpening system' doesn't exist. A pull through touch up system is inadequate long term and unnecessary ever.

I should encourage him to waste money just because he started misinformed?

How about, go where EVERYBODY sharpens knives and razors and ask THEM? I'm not the only one telling the truth. Doodlebugs are rip offs which defraud the confused.

cziv
01-24-2010, 03:17
:supergrin:
How about, go where EVERYBODY sharpens knives and razors and ask THEM? I'm not the only one telling the truth. Doodlebugs are rip offs which defraud the confused.


Well mitchshrader,

I think we've covered about every sharpening and as you say, pull through touch up system around, with a few exceptions.

I got my last problem knife sharpened on a touch up system last night. I'm good to go.

I'll be sticking with my Sharpmaker from here out. :supergrin:

lethal tupperwa
01-24-2010, 08:04
A "pull through" system DOES exist.

It is called Warthog.

Take a look at their videos.

http://www.v-sharp.com/

If you can follow the directions it works.

It will create an edge that will not slip like a polished one.

cziv
01-24-2010, 14:29
lethal tupperwa,

How come these guys always demonstrate on easy to sharpen filet knives?

I'd like to see a demo on a Busse Fusion Battle Mistress!! :rollsmiley:

http://homepage.mac.com/zombiekiller/badmojo/04bm.html

lethal tupperwa
01-25-2010, 07:17
the wart is adjustable for any blade thickness.

maybe they think Rambo would use a rock like in the movie :0)