Change out hammers? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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CAcop
01-22-2010, 00:26
Anyone ever change out a hammer in their 1911?

I am going to have one of the PD armorers take my stock hammer off my duty 1911 and change it to a commander style. I noticed the pin for the hammer strut wa in their pretty good. Does it take a lot of beating to get it out? It seemed like they never took it apart in armorer's school from the way they talked. They certainly didn't do it the two times they inspected it.

Quack
01-22-2010, 00:38
the hammer strut pin is pretty tight. i just put a new hammer strut & pin in when i put in a new hammer.

CAcop
01-22-2010, 11:18
Did the pin and strut get jacked up when you took it apart?

Quack
01-22-2010, 15:50
i tried (didn't have an armorer's block though), then decided to just get a new strut

Jason D
01-22-2010, 17:34
If you change hammers, you will have to fit the sear to it.

tous
01-22-2010, 17:35
Yes, you can remove the hammer strut pin with a large enough hammer, but the holes in the hammer and strut may be distorted by doing so making a proper fit of the new parts unsatisfactory. A hammer strut pin that decides to walk will scar the side of the frame and may well block the hammer from operating. If you re-use the old parts, stake the pin and stone level.

A hammer strut and hammer strut pin might well cost a whole $3.

:wavey:

RonS
01-22-2010, 17:45
Get a new pin, they sell for almost nothing. You don't want it dragging.

You can make your own bench block, take a piece of wood and put a small hole in it. Instant bench block. Use a proper size pin punch. I used a 4 oz ball peen hammer, they don't take a lot of force, but you have to apply it precisely.

I bought a Cylinder and Slide set of hammer, sear, disconnector and sear spring from Midway and mine dropped in with no fitting. That is NOT normal, I was very lucky not to at least have to fit my thumb safety. I would not expect to drop in just any old hammer and not need fitting.

Brian Brazier
01-22-2010, 18:05
Ron the Cylinder Slide sets are drop in, and shouldn't require fitting. You can get away with droping in a hammer, but if relacing the hammer sear and dissconector you will need to do some fitting, unless it's a drop in set like the EGW or Cylinder Slide

seanmac45
01-22-2010, 18:53
The sear hooks should definitely be recut to match the geometry of the hammer. The engagement has to be measured to ensure it is safe, and a mild polishing of the reciprocal surfaces will ensure a smooth release.

It should be done by someone who has experience with 1911's.

Good luck with your mod.

CAcop
01-22-2010, 21:21
I already bought the sear with the hammer. I have been to enough armorer's schools to know to change the hammer with the sear on any gun. I'm sure you can cheap it out and do only the hammer but that seems like pushing your luck too much. I might just go ahead and get a pin and strut. The armorers seemed shocked they weren't sold as an assembly. Sounds like they never pulled it apart in school.

Thank you all and if anyone has any further advice or war stories please chime in. The more info the better I say.

seanmac45
01-22-2010, 21:30
Sorry I didn't know your depth of experience.

Brownell's sells a blue nylon bench block that makes the whole hammer strut thing a much easier task. I recommend it.

CAcop
01-23-2010, 22:04
The depth of my experience is knowing when to ask questions and when to get someone else to do it rather than wing it. We have a couple of those bench blocks around the department.

tous
01-24-2010, 05:51
The depth of my experience is knowing when to ask questions and when to get someone else to do it rather than wing it. We have a couple of those bench blocks around the department.

Hard to learn anything new getting someone else to do it. :supergrin:

Why are we replacing the hammer and sear again? Is this a modification or repair of a failed part?

If you decide to fit the hammer yourself, we first check to see if the hammer fits in the frame. It's rare to find a hammer that is too wide for a frame that is within specified dimension. Next thing I check, is the hole in the hammer in line with (coaxial) and parallel with the hammer pin hole in the frame. Be surprised how many hammers, mainly bad castings, are crooked. Also, the hole should be the right size. Too large and the hammer wobbles. Buy quaility parts and this is rarely an issue.

It doesn't take a 12-ton press to install the hammer strut. Consider, the operating force on the assembly is along an axis from the end of the strut where it compresses the main spring and perpendicular to the axis of the hammer strut pin. There is little to no force to move the pin laterally (side to side) so we don't need a lot of frcition to pin it.

Use a brass drift with a known flat tip larger than the pin. If the hammer strut pin can be pressed into the hammer with your finger, it's too small or the hole in the hammer is too big. We want to friction fit in the hammer hole, not the strut hole. The strut should rotate freely. Align the parts (make sure the stut is positioned correctly,) tap the pin in until both sides are flush with the hammer. If the pin is a bit long, stone the ends level.

I suggest that if you purchased the sear and hammer pre-fit together ... leave them the heck alone. Don't stone the engagement surfaces, don't polish the engagement surfaces, don't even look crossways at the engagement surfaces.

Give it a try. You know you want to. :wavey: