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G-31
01-26-2010, 23:07
Hi everyone I'm proud to say I have begun reloading and I fired my first 20 rounds of .40 today that I created! This evening however I started on my .357 Sig brass and I've been having some difficulty with it. The casing does not grip the bullet at all with some rounds and it falls in, I'm using .355 147 gr. Hornady JHP's which I'm pretty sure are the rights bullets so what step am I missing? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Tmygun
01-26-2010, 23:32
It sounds like you may be flaring the case mouths too much. That will reduce or ruin bullet tension. It's sometimes recommended to not flare the case mouth at all on necked pistol cases, just seat the bullet. Do it gently to make sure you're not crusing the case. It would help to chamfer the case mouths lightly.
I'm sure others will come along with more insight and help you out.

Tmygun:wavey:

G-31
01-26-2010, 23:40
Thanks for the input but I'm afraid I don't know what chamfer means. And how might I be flaring the case mouths? Thanks again.

sig357fan
01-27-2010, 02:05
G-31,

chamfer means to sightly bevel the inside of the case mouth so the bullet dosn't hang up on it when seating, you can also chamfer the outside of the case mouth which helps with feeding the round into the chamber.

case mouths get flared during charging when using a case activated powder measure like the Lee disc powder measure or a die spacificaly designed to flare the case. Case flaring helps with seating the bullet, pretty common when loading lead bullets.

sig357fan

380Seecamp
01-27-2010, 04:25
Are you using new brass? Are you full-length resizing all brass before loading it?

Three-Five-Seven
01-27-2010, 08:48
The best thing I learned on this site is to take the expander ball out of the sizing die for 357 sig. You can substitute the decapper from any straight walled set, as they don't have expanders.

You can get a chamfering tool just about anywhere, but an ordinary countersink bit will work just as well. When you take the expander plug out of the sizer, you really must chamfer cases to ease bullet seating.

If you continue to load with the expander ball in place, you are creating a potentially dangerous situation. When your bullets set-back in the case, due to insufficient neck tension, it can cause pressure spikes in your loads. These can actually be serious enough to blow your pistol up. So, clean up your act -- pronto!

jaybirdjtt
01-27-2010, 10:52
Thanks for the input but I'm afraid I don't know what chamfer means. And how might I be flaring the case mouths? Thanks again.


http://www.lewilson.com/home.html

Their inside/outside deburring tool for $20. I've found that it also works for removing the crimp in the primer pocket of military brass.

The information that came with your dies has instructions for adjusting the amount of neck flare. Some dies have an neck expander ball above the deprimer pin. Put a micrometer on the expander ball. Some dies have a separate die for neck flaring. I have so many dies that I cannot remember which brand has which.
Generally speaking, you want to flare just enough to allow the bullet to be seated. With some cartridges, like the Sig, since you're using jacket bullets, I'd try not flaring at all and simply use the deburring tool.
Another thing, pay attention to your minimum overall length...bullet + cartridge case. Seating too deeply can result in dangerously higher pressure. There is a thread about this with a picture of a blown up Glock 31 somewhere on the forum. My manual cautions reloaders to make sure the neck of the case grips the bullet securely.

G-31
01-27-2010, 10:59
Okay, thank you for all of your replies, the chamfer is the "rocket shaped thing" that I have that grinds the inside and outside of the case mouth? I am using once fired brass that I have saved, but I don't know what you mean by full length resizing? I am pushing the casing all the way into the die to remove the old primer but I thought that shaped the case so it would work. I'm using RCBS dies but I only could get a green box with a set of 2, do I need the grey box with all three? And Three-Five-Seven I apologize but the only thing I understand from your post is I shouldn't shoot any till I know what's going on. Is the expander ball what goes inside the casing when I punch out the primer? What's a decapper and a straight walled set? I really appreciate you guys helping me, thanks again.

G-31
01-27-2010, 11:07
http://www.lewilson.com/home.html

Their inside/outside deburring tool for $20. I've found that it also works for removing the crimp in the primer pocket of military brass.

The information that came with your dies has instructions for adjusting the amount of neck flare. Some dies have an neck expander ball above the deprimer pin. Put a micrometer on the expander ball. Some dies have a separate die for neck flaring. I have so many dies that I cannot remember which brand has which.
Generally speaking, you want to flare just enough to allow the bullet to be seated. With some cartridges, like the Sig, since you're using jacket bullets, I'd try not flaring at all and simply use the deburring tool.
Another thing, pay attention to your minimum overall length...bullet + cartridge case. Seating too deeply can result in dangerously higher pressure. There is a thread about this with a picture of a blown up Glock 31 somewhere on the forum. My manual cautions reloaders to make sure the neck of the case grips the bullet securely.

Thank you, I'll check the dies but I thought the instructions were generalized to all dies. What's a micrometer? Is the deburring tool the chamfer thing? And I have been comparing each round to a factory round, is that okay? Thanks again.

ilgunguygt
01-27-2010, 11:53
Do you have a reloading manual to read? It sounds like you need to get up on the basics before you move any farther. You only have one set of fingers and eyes, remember that.

fredj338
01-27-2010, 12:00
The best thing I learned on this site is to take the expander ball out of the sizing die for 357 sig. You can substitute the decapper from any straight walled set, as they don't have expanders.

You can get a chamfering tool just about anywhere, but an ordinary countersink bit will work just as well. When you take the expander plug out of the sizer, you really must chamfer cases to ease bullet seating.

If you continue to load with the expander ball in place, you are creating a potentially dangerous situation. When your bullets set-back in the case, due to insufficient neck tension, it can cause pressure spikes in your loads. These can actually be serious enough to blow your pistol up. So, clean up your act -- pronto!
This really depends on your dies. RCBS dies have had problems since they were introduced. They assumed it would load like a rifle, hence 2 dies, it really does not. It loads like any straight wall pistol case. I load 357sig on Dillon carbide dies, expander in place, slight flare w/ the powder through expander, good taper crimp. I have no setback isues using proper bullets. Full length sizing is turning the die down all the way until it touches the raised shell holder. You may have an early, poor set of dies from RCBS. They do not sise the case for proper headspace on the small shoulder. I would suggest the Lee dies w/a carbide 40 sizer ordered separate.
The 147grXTP just works, if your die setup is perfect. Measure the expander mandrel, it should be undersized, about 0.350" works. You can chuck it into a drill & polish it down. It sounds like you are pretty new to the reloading thing. I woudl put the 257sig aside until you get some add'l. exp. loading the 40s. You can mess up pretty badly trying to load 357sig w/ no experience. Your questions tell me you have not read a reloading manual or two. Research, there are no internet shortcuts.

PCJim
01-27-2010, 12:07
G-31, it would seem from your further line of questions that you have skipped the entire "introduction and basic reloading" section of the reloading manual that you (hopefully) have read. If I'm correct, I'll be the first to bust your cohonas and advise you to go do some reading. If I am wrong, my apologies.

The "rocket shaped think" is a chamfering/deburring tool used to "dress" the case mouth. One end puts a slight angle on the inside of the case mouth to assist in starting a bullet, and the other end will deburr the outside of the case mouth to remove any rough edges left after trimming the case to proper length. Case trimming is not required for straight wall cases. Your 357SIG is a bottlenecked case and trimming may be required to keep the cases at or under SAAMI cartridge specifications.

A micrometer is a caliper, either digital or dial. These are used for measuring your COL which cannot be done accurately by simply comparing to factory rounds. Get one - digital calipers can be had at Harbor Freight on sale for around $10.

There are a bunch of VERY knowledgable reloaders here on this board who enjoy helping others to learn the art of reloading. It is preferred that newbies, at a minimum, do some of their own homework by reading about reloading.

G-31
01-27-2010, 13:09
Thanks everyone, I am new but I thought cause I successfully fired some .40 this was all going to be very easy. I'll read the book that came with my press, is there a book that all reloaders have to have that I should get and is there anything else I can do so I don't sound like a complete idiot next time I ask for your help? Thank you.

PCJim
01-27-2010, 14:58
G, You need to obtain for reading and future re-reading "The ABC's of Reloading". You should also have on hand one or more reloading data books - Speer, Lyman, Hornady and others publish these books and they ALL devote the first several chapters of their books to the techniques of reloading.

The point that they ALL devote the very beginning of their books to reloading should give you some idea of how important it is to read first, then re-read and understand what you are reading, before practicing any reloading. Otherwise, you are delving into the no man's land of making miniature but highly explosive devices without guidance that could injure, or worse - kill, yourself and innocent bystanders.

Bret
01-27-2010, 15:30
G-31, I also agree that you should do a ton of reading before you actually start reloading. In regard to 357Sig, I recommend that you wait until you get more experience loading regular straight walled pistol cases (like 40S&W) and regular bottle necked rifle cases (like 223Rem, 308Win, etc.). Bottle necked pistol cases are typically more difficult to load than either of the above. I load 7.62x25 and 30Luger. They're just more of a challenge, but OK once you know what you're doing.

Colorado4Wheel
01-27-2010, 15:44
Just a piece of advice. Considering you loaded .40SW and didn't kill yourself or anyone else you at least have some knowledge (not enough but some). The key to .357 SIG is all about bullet/case tension. It is the one thing people have issues with (who already know what they are doing). I would get a couple reloading Manuals. Read them. What kind of press you using? Maybe someone will know about the instructions you have and how complete they are compared to a real manual.

fredj338
01-27-2010, 15:52
G, You need to obtain for reading and future re-reading "The ABC's of Reloading". You should also have on hand one or more reloading data books - Speer, Lyman, Hornady and others publish these books and they ALL devote the first several chapters of their books to the techniques of reloading.

The point that they ALL devote the very beginning of their books to reloading should give you some idea of how important it is to read first, then re-read and understand what you are reading, before practicing any reloading. Otherwise, you are delving into the no man's land of making miniature but highly explosive devices without guidance that could injure, or worse - kill, yourself and innocent bystanders.
This can't be stressed enough. AS I already statd, there are no shortcuts to reloading only to the hospital. It's not rocket science but it can be learned as you go w/o some basics understood first. At least read the loading manual at a minimum. The ABCs of Reloading is a great book for newbs. If there is an exp. (to me that is someone that loads for at least a rev. a pistol & rifle) reloader near you willing to come & mentor for a couple hours, it will save you tons of time in trial & error. If you are that lucky, take notes. There are many small things, like proper die setup, that will just make things go so much easier, to major things like how to chooes an appropriate powder/bulelt combo. Unfortunately, asking gunshop employees is pretty useless as they often know little to nothing about reloading. Do some serious reading, come back & ask some questions which you may then be able to understand the answers to. Good luck, be very, very careful.:whistling:

dudley
01-29-2010, 12:27
Hi everyone I'm proud to say I have begun reloading and I fired my first 20 rounds of .40 today that I created! This evening however I started on my .357 Sig brass and I've been having some difficulty with it. The casing does not grip the bullet at all with some rounds and it falls in, I'm using .355 147 gr. Hornady JHP's which I'm pretty sure are the rights bullets so what step am I missing? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
I have loaded and shot about 2000 rounds and I took the advise directly from RCBS.

NO BELL
NO CRIMP
JUST CHAMFER A BIT
I use only jacketed bullets

No issues since I started this, but as always especially with this round, IF YOU CHAMBER THE ROUND either SHOOT IT OUT or EXJECT AND PULL THE BULLET. This is a bit overkill, but help prevent you from bullet setback.

ALSO AA#9 12-13 grains, will prevent bullet setback

fredj338
01-29-2010, 12:40
I have loaded and shot about 2000 rounds and I took the advise directly from RCBS.

NO BELL
NO CRIMP
JUST CHAMFER A BIT
I use only jacketed bullets

No issues since I started this, but as always especially with this round, IF YOU CHAMBER THE ROUND either SHOOT IT OUT or EXJECT AND PULL THE BULLET. This is a bit overkill, but help prevent you from bullet setback.

ALSO AA#9 12-13 grains, will prevent bullet setback
You have had success, but since RCBS got the orignal die specs wrong, I can't support their instructions. The round headspaces on the small shoulder, RCBS says on the case mouth, that is wrong. If you shoot plated bullets, a slight bell will help keep them from gouging the bases. I have even collapsed case neck trying to seat w/o some slight bell. I would rather bell than chamfer, chamfer leaves less neck mat'l. for a good crimp. RCBS got it wrong IMO, Dillon dies are perfect, Lee & Redding also got it right, but are not carbide (which baffles me, just put the carbide sizer in from the 40 die).:dunno:

nraman
02-06-2010, 23:13
What about bullets? I understand that there are 357Sig specific bullets that have a longer bearing surface for better neck tension.

G-31
02-06-2010, 23:27
What about bullets? I understand that there are 357Sig specific bullets that have a longer bearing surface for better neck tension.

If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.

fredj338
02-07-2010, 00:11
If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.

Yep, $20 for a book & reading the instructions before reloading; priceless. Maybe RCBS will give you another die if you send it back. A note, should you get the case stuck again, there are tools designed for removing it w/o damaging the die. Always best to ask questions. I know it's a guy thing, you know, we always know what we are doing & where we are going, who needs directions? Really though, in reloading ammunition, if you fail to study & follow directions, you can seriously hurt yourself, ruin equip (oh yeah, you know that) or a gun. Be safe.:whistling:

nraman
02-07-2010, 09:41
If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out.

No need to destroy the die. There is a kit from RCBS that removes stuck cases.
I use something similar. A socket, a drill bit, a tap and some washers.
I drill and tap through the primer hole 1/4x24 I then use the socket and a 1/4x24 bolt to pull the stuck case.

shotgunred
02-07-2010, 10:11
If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.

Laugh? We have all stuck a case at one time or other.
Use this for future reference.
http://ultimatereloader.com/?page_id=366
You don't need a lathe though. A 1/4 inch $10 tap and drill set from you local hardware store and a hand drill work fine. I also use a deep socket for my spacer rather than some nuts. but it will get your case out without hurting your die.

Also did you mention what press you were using?
what is your 40 load? bullet weight? powder and charge?
It is real important with the 40 to start with a medium burning powder and not to go for top pressure loads.

G-31
02-07-2010, 13:18
Thanks guys I'll get that case remover. I've got an RCBS press but at the moment I can't say what load I'm using because I live in a dorm and don't bring any of that stuff here. I have been using unique and power pistol for the handgun rounds, for .40 the bullet weights have been I think 155 and I've tried 180 too. Kind of experimenting for now but I've been staying towards the middle on pressure because this is very new to me. I do have one other question though, I see there are so many types of powder, bullets and recommendations on loads, did you guys try a bunch out when you started or did you find something that worked and stick with it? Going to shoot some right now so I'll be back tonight if I have any issues, thanks again.

fredj338
02-07-2010, 14:01
Thanks guys I'll get that case remover. I've got an RCBS press but at the moment I can't say what load I'm using because I live in a dorm and don't bring any of that stuff here. I have been using unique and power pistol for the handgun rounds, for .40 the bullet weights have been I think 155 and I've tried 180 too. Kind of experimenting for now but I've been staying towards the middle on pressure because this is very new to me. I do have one other question though, I see there are so many types of powder, bullets and recommendations on loads, did you guys try a bunch out when you started or did you find something that worked and stick with it? Going to shoot some right now so I'll be back tonight if I have any issues, thanks again.
I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.:wow:

G-31
02-07-2010, 20:26
I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.:wow:

That's actually good news to me, I'm meticulous enough not switch things up but I think I'm gonna settle on the power pistol for a while. I shot about 130 rounds of .40 and 130 .357 today and all the rounds went off, I had three jams in the .40 but the .357 didn't have any issues. If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative, also I've been looking at some wolf primers but am kind of skeptical cause of the price, has anyone had any experience with these? Thanks.

Bret
02-07-2010, 21:00
If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative
As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?

nraman
02-07-2010, 21:17
As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?

I have been planning to reload the 357Sig just didn't get around to doing it. I bought a set of Lee dies including what I think is their "factory crimp" die. Wouldn't such a die be better?

G-31
02-07-2010, 21:34
As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?

No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?

fredj338
02-07-2010, 22:32
No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?
All handgun ammo should have an appropriate crimp for reliable functioning. If you are expanding the mouth of the case, even slightly (as you should be), then you must turn that expanded mouth back straight or slightly into the bullet.
What kind of "jamb"? Failure to chamber, feed, what? Failur to chamber can be not crimping properly/adequately, or a bullet too long. Nose down jamb can be OAL too short. Nose up, OAL too long. Yes, reloading reliable, accurate ammo is a bit more comlicated than just stuffing powder & bullets together in a case.
Wolf primers will work fine. I find them a bit lrager in diameter & can cause you some seating issues. With the LP rpimers, I found them a bit hotter than CCI or Fed. So if you are running max loads, I would back off the powder charge 0.1gr to compensate.

G-31
02-07-2010, 22:52
Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.

nraman
02-07-2010, 23:16
Where is the head space for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.

nraman
02-07-2010, 23:29
Where is the headspace for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.

I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG

380Seecamp
02-08-2010, 03:59
I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG

That is correct, although as Fred likes to point out, the shoulder can be used for headspacing as well.

Hydraulicman
02-08-2010, 04:40
oh brother.

Bret
02-08-2010, 07:09
Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.
What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?

G-31
02-08-2010, 10:53
What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?

They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.

fredj338
02-08-2010, 12:42
I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
No wiki is wrong, as was RCBS when they first came out w/ their dies. The round headspaces on the small shoulder. You could roll crimp, but most dies are setup for taper crimp & you need a cannelure exactly at the right place for proper OAL. SO taper crimp works. I've heard many 357sig reloaders having issues w/ early RCBS die sets. Lee, Hornady & especially Dillon (carbide sizer) got it correct. Here is a very good article on the relaoding of the 357sig. After you read it, it's pretty obvious where the case headspaces. http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm

Bret
02-08-2010, 13:03
Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.

Bret
02-08-2010, 13:09
They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.
Setting the cartridge overall length for most pistol cartridges is simple. Just use measurement supplied by the bullet manufacturer. It will be within SAAMI specifications.

As far as the bell remaining from the belling step. It needs to be removed to make the case wall straight. Otherwise, it can grab things as it is feeding over the end of the magazine, up the feed ramp, and in to the chamber. I personally use Hornady taper crimp dies and they work like a champ. Ones from other manufacturers will likely work fine too.

just for fun
02-08-2010, 15:03
Adding to some every helpfull info. Please spend the next hour or so at WWW.realguns.com/loads/357sig.htm Once there in the search archives block put "357 sig" Most outstanding site reguarding the 357 sig and how to build reloads in that caliber. Enjoy.

fredj338
02-08-2010, 15:13
Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.
By the definition of headspace, it can not headspace on the extractor. It may be held in place w/ a well fitting extractor, but that is not truely headspacing.

Bret
02-08-2010, 16:01
By the definition of headspace, it can not headspace on the extractor. It may be held in place w/ a well fitting extractor, but that is not truely headspacing.
I'm just trying to illustrate what's really happening. If someone thinks that the shoulder is what is determining how far the cartridge goes in to the chamber, that would not be correct. But yes, you don't measure headspace from the extractor groove.

Snapper2
02-08-2010, 16:03
I've been learning to load the bottleneck 400 cor bon and if the 357 sig is anything like it,it will take alot of practice. Not enough flare and you collapse the neck during seating . Too much flare and you can buckle the case mouth during crimping or lose bullet/case mouth tension.When using a taper crimp die I found out its real easy to buckle the case shoulders(even a little bit and the round wont chamber). While I can use the(lee)seat /taper crimp die, I dont feel like it gives the short neck enough tension. So far I'm having better luck with lee's bottleneck factory crimp die, it roll crimps only the case mouth without putting any stress on the neck or shoulders. And unlike the straight wall LFCDs, it doesnt size also. But it wont fix the problem if a bullet has been seated improperly.

fredj338
02-08-2010, 19:41
I've been learning to load the bottleneck 400 cor bon and if the 357 sig is anything like it,it will take alot of practice. Not enough flare and you collapse the neck during seating . Too much flare and you can buckle the case mouth during crimping or lose bullet/case mouth tension.When using a taper crimp die I found out its real easy to buckle the case shoulders(even a little bit and the round wont chamber). While I can use the(lee)seat /taper crimp die, I dont feel like it gives the short neck enough tension. So far I'm having better luck with lee's bottleneck factory crimp die, it roll crimps only the case mouth without putting any stress on the neck or shoulders. And unlike the straight wall LFCDs, it doesnt size also. But it wont fix the problem if a bullet has been seated improperly.
SOunds like you've got a handle on it. Getting proper neck tension is the key. Make sure your expander die only flares & notexpands the ID too much. Chuck it in the drill press or find a machinist to chuck it in a lathe & polish it down.

Snapper2
02-08-2010, 20:08
SOunds like you've got a handle on it. Getting proper neck tension is the key. Make sure your expander die only flares & notexpands the ID too much. Chuck it in the drill press or find a machinist to chuck it in a lathe & polish it down.

Good idea Fred. I'll give it a try. I work out of a machine shop though my work is outside.:crying: After reading that realgun.com article I checked my headspace and found with the slack taken out of press and sizer touching holder, the formed brass is around .025 below barrel hood. So I took some fire formed brass and adjusted sizer up a few thousands(actually played with it till I got right):whistling: And the resized brass is at or just below hood after being maybe .010 above it after shot. I made a few dummy rounds they hand cycled through allright. I will load some target rounds and see how it works.:cool: