Thinking of picking up a 1911 [Archive] - Glock Talk

PDA

View Full Version : Thinking of picking up a 1911


Loudcherokee
02-28-2010, 21:43
So, lately, after shooting someones 1911 at the range, I'm kind of getting the itch. I already own 2 glocks, an HK, and a Ruger revolver. I'm pretty sure I want to add a 1911 to the mix.

I'm used to my plastic pistols, but I'm new to the 1911, and I have a few questions.

Officer, Commander, and Government models. I'm getting that this has something to do with the size or length, but what is the size of each, and where does the Taurus PT1911 fall in this grouping?

How easy are they to take down and clean? Again, I'm used to my Glocks, and even the HK is a breeze to strip blindfolded. Is there more cleaning involved with a 1911?

SA/DA only? From what I've been told, you can have either SA or DA in a 1911, but not both, like my HK USP-C for example. Is cocked and locked the only way to carry a 1911? And if the hammer were to fall for some unknown reason, would the grip safety still keep the gun from discharging?

What options are available for customizing, to make my 1911 MINE? I know the grips are changeable, but what about the other hardware on the gun? Triggers, hammers, safeties, etc? Also, can the mag release be made ambi? I am a lefty. It's easy enough to manipulate with my trigger finger, but the option of an ambi mag release would be nice. Where's a good place for parts, and can the work be done by myself, or would I have to pay a smith?

Is there a break in procedure, and if so, how is it done?

Lastly, I'll throw in the 1911 that I'm considering, although I might get flamed. It's the Taurus PT1911 duotone. I understand from reading posts already that the PT1911 has a love/hate kind of appeal to it. But, if you think about it, so do Glocks. I still would like to hear opinions though, good or bad, and pics if ya got em. I've yet to see a good pic of the duotone from different angles than the side view. I can't tell if the top of the slide is stainless like the sides, or if it's a matte black finish.

LC

CanIhaveGasCash
02-28-2010, 22:32
1911's are not difficult to strip or clean, not as easy as a glock, but easy none the less.

You can purchase a 1911 with an ambi safety or have an ambi safety installed.

Most 1911's are single action only, I believe there are some double action.

If you are looking into personalizing your gun you are better off purchasing a Mil Spec or GI springfield, or something similar instead of the Taurus. You can change any part in a 1911. Some parts will have to be fitted by a gun smith, others you can change out yourself. If you purchase an entry level 1911 from springfield you can send it back to them to have them change/upgrade whatever you want.

Personally I think you would be better served saving a little more money and buying a used Springfield TRP or MC Operator.

That said, everyone and their mom is buying Taurus PT1911's

Quack
02-28-2010, 22:46
Long Slide = 6"
Government = 5"
Commander (Kimber Pro or Springfield Champion) = 4" - 4.25"
Officer (Kimber Ultra or Springfield Micro) = 3" - 3.5"

cleaning is easy, yet a little more involved when you detail strip it.

most 1911's are SA, Para does have an LDA model

the 1911 is the Harley of guns, you can change everything/anything on it.

many different thoughts on break-in. i personally use a slurry of JB Bore paste on the slide/frame.

Taurus is at the bottom of the list. i don't have experience with them.

ambluemax
02-28-2010, 23:27
Sizes: government is the orignial size w/ 5" barrel, commander is the same frame as a government but with a 4.25" barrel (some makes just round to an even 4"), officer is reduced frame and reduced barrel but I don't know the specs off hand because the small guns don't interest me. These sizes are pretty commonly refered to in conversation about 1911's, but different makes attach different names to their models (Springfield calls their 4"ers "champions" for example).

Field striping is only hard if you don't know what your are doing (as with taking anything appart really) its pretty straight forward though and is explained in detail in the manual (or on youtube if you buy used w/o manual). Once you've done it a couple times you won't think anything of it. Clean it just like anyother gun: scrub the barrel wipe it down and apply oil to the key contact points (rails, barrel, and such).

1911's are pretty much single action only. Para makes a DAO, but that's pretty much their exclusive. Cocked and locked is the safest way to carry them. You can carry them hammer down on a loaded chamber but its more dangerous because a) if the hammer slips while you are lowing the hammer you will have an ND and a broken thumb and b) if the hammer is down on a loaded chamber and give a swift strike to the hammer (If you dropped it hammer first from a high place for example) it will also ND. Drawing and firing from cocked anf locked is also light years form practical than drawing, cocking the hammer and transitioning to a shooting grip in a real world scenario. If the hammer were to fall for some reason the HALF-COCK would catch the hammer (theoretically ) just like pretty much any other rifle or pistol with an exposed hammer. The hammer does not just fall though for the same reason that glocks don't just magically go bang either....3 things have to simultaniously happen for a properly functioning 1911 to fire: thumb safety off, grip safety depressed, trigger pulled, these things don't happen on their own, never mind all 3 unintentionally at the same time. Glocks are by far and away less forgiving in ND resistance in IMO. But cocked and locked freaks some people out. If that isn't how you are going to carry it, carry something else. When you first get one, put it cocked and locked while UNLOADED in your holster and wear it around your house for awhile...count how many times the safety magically gets flicked off or you find the hammer down...you will quickly find these cocked and locked myths are non-issues.

No pistol is more customizable than the 1911. It has its own brownells catalog after all, I think the AR15 is the only other weapon with that distinction...but I could be wrong, anyway sky is the limit- go crazy. Most parts you will want to have a smith install, but it depends.

Yes: Load magazine, insert into pistol, chamber round, shoot until empty, and repeat (just like any other gun). What break in time really is in essence is time that you should not sweat common malfunctions. If you have a FTF within the first 500rds don't come here complaining about how big of a POS the 1911 is...we will tell you the same thing that CS at whatever company you buy it from will tell you- shoot it some more. Most 1911's hit the ground running 100%, but bobble while they are new. All they need is proper cleaning/lube and trigger time. Just start shooting it and if you have a pattern of malf after 500 rounds, then start the diagnostic process.

You don't get flamed about a PT1911 until you actually buy one because there is still hope for you. You don't want one!! They are just dressed up with sub-par part to look good in the store and sell, they are not of the same quality that their peers are made too. There is a reason that they cost less than comperably equipted 1911's from other makers. PT1911's are just well marketed junk especially if you want a base to build on. If you want to customize, colts and springfields are the commonly accepted options, higher value going to the SA's because you pay extra for the colt name. Many 'smiths will only accepts colts or SA's as base guns. There are many many many options in the world of 1911, the PT1911 is not considered a value by most who actually know what a quality 1911 is. The only people who buy them are people who don't know any better.

Specifically which 1911 to recomend instead depends upon your budget and intended use for the pistol. Anything you like from Springfield, Colt, Kimber, Smith and Wesson, Para or Sig will be a lot better buy for you.

Loudcherokee
03-01-2010, 07:48
Sizes: government is the orignial size w/ 5" barrel, commander is the same frame as a government but with a 4.25" barrel (some makes just round to an even 4"), officer is reduced frame and reduced barrel but I don't know the specs off hand because the small guns don't interest me. These sizes are pretty commonly refered to in conversation about 1911's, but different makes attach different names to their models (Springfield calls their 4"ers "champions" for example).

Field striping is only hard if you don't know what your are doing (as with taking anything appart really) its pretty straight forward though and is explained in detail in the manual (or on youtube if you buy used w/o manual). Once you've done it a couple times you won't think anything of it. Clean it just like anyother gun: scrub the barrel wipe it down and apply oil to the key contact points (rails, barrel, and such).

1911's are pretty much single action only. Para makes a DAO, but that's pretty much their exclusive. Cocked and locked is the safest way to carry them. You can carry them hammer down on a loaded chamber but its more dangerous because a) if the hammer slips while you are lowing the hammer you will have an ND and a broken thumb and b) if the hammer is down on a loaded chamber and give a swift strike to the hammer (If you dropped it hammer first from a high place for example) it will also ND. Drawing and firing from cocked anf locked is also light years form practical than drawing, cocking the hammer and transitioning to a shooting grip in a real world scenario. If the hammer were to fall for some reason the HALF-COCK would catch the hammer (theoretically ) just like pretty much any other rifle or pistol with an exposed hammer. The hammer does not just fall though for the same reason that glocks don't just magically go bang either....3 things have to simultaniously happen for a properly functioning 1911 to fire: thumb safety off, grip safety depressed, trigger pulled, these things don't happen on their own, never mind all 3 unintentionally at the same time. Glocks are by far and away less forgiving in ND resistance in IMO. But cocked and locked freaks some people out. If that isn't how you are going to carry it, carry something else. When you first get one, put it cocked and locked while UNLOADED in your holster and wear it around your house for awhile...count how many times the safety magically gets flicked off or you find the hammer down...you will quickly find these cocked and locked myths are non-issues.

No pistol is more customizable than the 1911. It has its own brownells catalog after all, I think the AR15 is the only other weapon with that distinction...but I could be wrong, anyway sky is the limit- go crazy. Most parts you will want to have a smith install, but it depends.

Yes: Load magazine, insert into pistol, chamber round, shoot until empty, and repeat (just like any other gun). What break in time really is in essence is time that you should not sweat common malfunctions. If you have a FTF within the first 500rds don't come here complaining about how big of a POS the 1911 is...we will tell you the same thing that CS at whatever company you buy it from will tell you- shoot it some more. Most 1911's hit the ground running 100%, but bobble while they are new. All they need is proper cleaning/lube and trigger time. Just start shooting it and if you have a pattern of malf after 500 rounds, then start the diagnostic process.

You don't get flamed about a PT1911 until you actually buy one because there is still hope for you. You don't want one!! They are just dressed up with sub-par part to look good in the store and sell, they are not of the same quality that their peers are made too. There is a reason that they cost less than comperably equipted 1911's from other makers. PT1911's are just well marketed junk especially if you want a base to build on. If you want to customize, colts and springfields are the commonly accepted options, higher value going to the SA's because you pay extra for the colt name. Many 'smiths will only accepts colts or SA's as base guns. There are many many many options in the world of 1911, the PT1911 is not considered a value by most who actually know what a quality 1911 is. The only people who buy them are people who don't know any better.

Specifically which 1911 to recomend instead depends upon your budget and intended use for the pistol. Anything you like from Springfield, Colt, Kimber, Smith and Wesson, Para or Sig will be a lot better buy for you.



Thanks for the replies so far.

One of my main reasons for considering the Taurus is the number of features that are already on the gun, primarily the ambi safety since I'm a lefty, and the duotone finish. Since reading your post, I've been looking at the springfield G.I. , and actually found a stainless one for LESS than the Taurus, but it is a base model. I have some questions.

Is there a difference between a G.I. And a milspec? I read an article where it said these don't come with a firing pin block, but the article was older, and buds lists the gun as having one. Which is true?

How much would it cost to add an ambi safety, polish the feed ramp, skeloton trigger, match grade trigger, etc. Basically the feature list the taurus comes with, again, primarily the ambi safety.

I can always duracoate the frame to get the duotone finish.

Lc

ambluemax
03-01-2010, 09:03
That's just the thing though, the Taurus is a cheap gun with cheap custom looking parts on it so that it looks like a value in the store and the first couple times you take it to the range, but it doesn't take long for the short cuts they make to surface. Case and point, I have a friend who has had one for about a year now and regularly shoots IDPA with it. It has been anything but reliable for him and that the last match it double fed on him 4 times, so now he has to send it into a gun smith to get fixed. For his initial investment + what he's going to have to pay a gunsmith, he could have bought an SA Loaded model and had a higher quality firearm and a much more positive shooting expirence. I've seen and shot a lot of 1911's and IMHO, the PT1911 is in no way a value even though it appears to be so.

The GI is about as plain jane as you can get, the milspec is a GI with higher profile sights, a lowered/flared ejection port, different cocking serations, and some extra machining and polishing on the internals that the GI's don't get. The only real reason to buy a GI is if you want a WWII replica 1911 (that's why I bought mine), otherwise the upgrades of the milspec are well worth the extra ~$150. The SA milspec is pretty much the most popular base for build/entry level 1911. You also get a lifetime warrenty with SA wich you won't get with any other comperably priced 1911 in the sub $1K price range.

Gunsmithing prices vary depending upon who you take it too and how good they are. I took one to the local gander mtn smith for an ambi install (i'm lefty too) and he didn't even charge me...but he also didn't do a very good job IMO. Send it back to the springfield custom shop they will charge $100 + the part. Most of the big custom shops like springfield or wilson combat post price lists on their websites. I believe the acutal trigger itself is a drop in part, but anything to do with the sear/trigger pull needs to be done by a gs. Extra feed ramp polishing is not really needed on a quality built 1911, use will give it all the polishing it needs unless you are having a specific problem.

The Springfield loaded model comes equipted straight out of the box with all the features the PT1911 so horribly mimicks, including an ambi safety, and they are all actually decent quality parts on a well built solid 1911 with the best customer service/warrenty in the industry standing behind it. More expensive, yes, but also much higher value.

Quack
03-01-2010, 14:14
WW2 (GI) Model: Pistol closely replicates the basic 1911A1 as used by the US military for seven decades. Features:
high wall ("narrow") ejection port
low profile GI sights
lanyard loop on mainspring housing
vertical cocking serrations on slide

Mil-Spec: Pre-dated the G.I. model, adds some popular features/upgrades
stainless barrel and bushing
loaded chamber indicator
lowered and flared ejection port
high profile 3-dot sights
beveled magazine well
loss of the lanyard loop on mainspring housing
forward-raked cocking serrations on slide

Loaded: An upgrade from the Mil-Spec with even more of the most popular features/upgrades
beavertail grip safety
Novak sights
ambidextrious thumb safety
long 3 hole trigger
full length guide rod (2-piece)
front cocking serrations
flat mainspring housing

Loudcherokee
03-01-2010, 17:08
Ok. I'm getting a little confused. In my search for the Springfield "Loaded" in stainless, I'm unable to find anything at www.budsgunshop.com. There's service, tactical, target, trophy, milspec, GI, operator, champ, etc. I'm not finding anything called "loaded". Can you help me out with a link?

I did call some local shops, and got a quote for the Taurus at $650, which would actually be close to Buds after shipping and the transfer fee, and not considering the cash discount price of $597.

I asked about the springfield stainless loaded, and he told me $790!!! :wow: If that's true, then I'll DEFINITELY pick up the springfield! But, I think maybe I was misquoted, because that's the price I'm coming across for some milspecs.

LC

Quack
03-01-2010, 17:17
you are better off searching for the model number.
PX9151LP

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/43757

Loudcherokee
03-01-2010, 17:28
you are better off searching for the model number.
PX9151LP

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/43757


Ahhhhhhh! Thank you! I wasn't sure which model number corresponded with what I'm looking for. $789? That is NOT bad. Even if the local shop was right at $790 (they quoted the Taurus at $650 when buds has it for $597), I might still go through buds, instead of paying $55 in sales tax locally, plus the transfer fee.

Hmmmm.....now to research refinishing prices to get that duotone look I like. This gun made me start considering a 1911, based on looks alone. This is not my gun, and I do not take credit for the pic, as it was taken from another board. It is sexy though! Not sure what the little add ons are for or if they serve any kind of function.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/Loudcherokee/Dsc00843.jpg


LC

ambluemax
03-01-2010, 17:34
you mean like one of these: http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?version=18

px9152lp

Quack
03-01-2010, 17:39
PX9152LP is the Target sights
http://www.gunshopfinder.com/springfield/PX9152L.jpg

PX9154LP is the Novaks
http://www.impactguns.com/store/media/springfield/spg_16354.jpg

Loudcherokee
03-01-2010, 17:42
Thanks guys! I'm liking the looks of both of those, except the Target model is running $973. The Novak sites model is $770, but doesn't have the Ambi safety. Hrmmmmm.


LC

Quack
03-01-2010, 17:54
an ambi-safety will be about $50 if you do it yourself.

if it's something you want, i would either save up instead of buying something to buy.

Loudcherokee
03-01-2010, 19:45
an ambi-safety will be about $50 if you do it yourself.

if it's something you want, i would either save up instead of buying something to buy.

Yeah, it's just figuring out which one I want to go with. I like the finish better on the serrations on the Target model, and it comes with an ambi safety, but I don't like the sights, and it's over $900. I'd prefer the Novak sights, or even a night sight of some sort, since this will be a carry piece. Not real crazy about the target sites.

So, if I were to go with the second one, an ambi safety will only be $50 more dollars, which keeps me under the $900 mark. What about the slide serrations? Is there a way to finish those to be stainless on the edges like on the target model? I'd also eventually consider getting the frame umm, blackened? coated? Not sure what the term is.

ARGH! Decisions, decisions!

LC

Quack
03-01-2010, 19:58
that pic is a little funky

this is more like the one's ive seen
http://www.gunsamerica.com/userimages/3258/939471842/pop_wm_836926.jpg
http://www.gunsamerica.com/userimages/3258/939471842/pop_wm_836927.jpg

$50 is just a ballpark number, depending on the safety you buy.

Loudcherokee
03-01-2010, 20:05
What is that thing on the bottom of the grip on the target model? It looks different. The standard one has a flat bottom.

I would probably opt for the extended safety lever. Hey, do they make a right side only safety lever? They obviously make a left side only, but what about the other?

Is there a way to make the mag release ambi? on ANY 1911? Most I've seen have the distinct cutout shape on the right side of the frame, and just a circle on the left.


LC

Quack
03-01-2010, 20:09
What is that thing on the bottom of the grip on the target model? It looks different. The standard one has a flat bottom.

I would probably opt for the extended safety lever. Hey, do they make a right side only safety lever? They obviously make a left side only, but what about the other?

Is there a way to make the mag release ambi? on ANY 1911? Most I've seen have the distinct cutout shape on the right side of the frame, and just a circle on the left.


LC

the target has a magwell. prices for those start at about $70.
http://www.smithandalexander.com/images/mg3.jpg

no, the only single side safety is the left side.


S&A makes an ambi mag release. it's $100
Left side______________Right side
http://www.smithandalexander.com/images/mg13.jpg

bac1023
03-01-2010, 20:44
I like the Kimber Custom II and Smith SW1911 better than the Loaded.


http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu81/ollituc/000_2542.jpg

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu81/ollituc/000_2051.jpg

Cobra64
03-02-2010, 01:39
I like the Kimber Custom II and Smith SW1911 better than the Loaded.


http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu81/ollituc/000_2542.jpg

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu81/ollituc/000_2051.jpg

I agree. They actually look like 1911s, especially the Smith, without the front slide serrations. As you know, that model Kimber was the first 1911 I shot, and is what got me into 1911-world. :)

That Taurus looks like the result of a bad LSD trip. :rofl:



BTW, the Pony came home today, is cleaned up, and ready for a photoshoot. :supergrin:

w4004p
03-02-2010, 02:44
don't be scared of the Taurus. i bought one and his has been perfect (reliable and accurate) and i'm not a 1911 noob, i've owned three Colts. it's gets better, i use the stock mags that came with it.

i was really tempted to buy a Springfield, but i just can't get past the idea of not having a firing pin block. i (personally) would not feel comfortable carrying it cocked and locked, without one.

Edit 2 Add - while i've never used one, i've heard nothing but good things about Rock Island Armory. you might wanna check them out, also.

GreyEclipse
03-02-2010, 04:00
The Taurus isn't as crappy as everyone says but it's definitely not great.
Just buy a SA. I'd either go with the Mil-Spec or Loaded.

I personally like the PX9154LP. That's the 1911 that I plan on getting.
BUT a Mil-Spec has an appeal for a building block.

While I said that the Taurus isn't absolute junk...
I still hate Taurus, I wouldn't buy Taurus anything but that's just me.

ambluemax
03-02-2010, 10:10
An ambi will run you about $50-60 for the part plus installation. I highly recomend you not do this yourself...being too cheap to pay a gunsmith to fit a safety is a stupid reason to shoot yourself in the leg/foot. Its a safety don't mess around with it!!

As stated the target comes with a magwell...its value added, but some prefer not to have them for CCW (lower profile), but its personal preference. Myself, I'd probably opt for the target model in your situation. Its easier to find gunsmiths capable of properly installing sights than safeties, then you can also get whatever sights you want. I think the local gander mtn offers free intall with purchase of trigicon sights. With my expirence having ambi's installed, I'd rather have an ambi facotry installed and do sights after the purchase rather than the other way around, but that's just me.

I have guns that are ambi mag releases (XD) and actually prefer to use my index finger on a stardard positioned button. Ambi/left handed mag releases and slide stops are not necessary IMO. I actually feel sorry for right handed people on the mag release location. With an ambi safety. the 1911 is VERY lefty friendly...that's why I shoot them.

Extended safeties are a good option. I like to rest my thumb on them while shooting, I miss them when shooting guns without them.

Pretty sure the novaks that come on loadeds are night sights

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 13:00
Based on all the great info you guys have provided, I may end up going with the loaded. The only feature it doesn't have that the target model has that I would want is cosmetic. It already comes with the sites I want, ambi safety, and the match trigger. I can always replace the grips and look into coating options.

Lc

Quack
03-02-2010, 13:21
sounds like a plan :)

GreyEclipse
03-02-2010, 15:12
Good luck but seeing as you're choosing a Springer you probably won't need it. :cool:

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 16:40
Thanks again folks. I do think the best option would end up being the loaded. I just got off the phone with CDNN and they quoted me $739! even with shipping, and the transfer fee, that's STILL the best price I've come across so far.

This little endeavor might just have to wait though. Had a talk with the Misses. Apparently, she has budgeted my tax return for other expenses. :steamed: This caused quite the argument. Oh well. I still should be able to get it within a month.

LC

Cobra64
03-02-2010, 17:11
Thanks again folks. I do think the best option would end up being the loaded. I just got off the phone with CDNN and they quoted me $739! even with shipping, and the transfer fee, that's STILL the best price I've come across so far.

This little endeavor might just have to wait though. Had a talk with the Misses. Apparently, she has budgeted my tax return for other expenses. :steamed: This caused quite the argument. Oh well. I still should be able to get it within a month.

LCA month's wait is nothing if you get what you really want; like the "sissy pistol" in your signature line. :rofl:

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 17:16
A month's wait is nothing if you get what you really want; like the "sissy pistol" in your signature line. :rofl:

Hahaha! Touche'!

I guess I'll have to change that huh? Although, the Springfield isn't really nickle plated. Hmmmm. Maybe I'll leave it. I dunno. :whistling:

A month seems long to me! I gotta get it before the obsession wears off, or else I wont get it, lol. I've already visited the Master Links thread, picked out some sights, grips, and possibly a new trigger, and I dont even have the gun!

This is nuts. There should be a support group! I'm sure it will fade, before I move to the next thing. My addictions seem to come in waves. This month it's guns, next month I'll be back to guitar, or model cars, or my project pickup truck, or my car, or something. Eventually, I'll come back to guns, and be wanting something else new. I think after I get the 1911, and a shotgun, I'll be done. Until the next new thing comes out.

LC

Quack
03-02-2010, 17:23
buy the parts before the gun, so that will keep the lust alive :rofl:

I think after I get the 1911, and a shotgun, I'll be done.

if i had a nickel for every time i've heard that :)

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 17:26
buy the parts before the gun, so that will keep the lust alive :rofl:


HAHA! Thanks for the "support"! :devilish::cheers:

Cobra64
03-02-2010, 17:26
Hahaha! Touche'!

I guess I'll have to change that huh? Although, the Springfield isn't really nickle plated. Hmmmm. Maybe I'll leave it. I dunno. :whistling:

A month seems long to me! I gotta get it before the obsession wears off, or else I wont get it, lol. I've already visited the Master Links thread, picked out some sights, grips, and possibly a new trigger, and I dont even have the gun!

This is nuts. There should be a support group! I'm sure it will fade, before I move to the next thing. My addictions seem to come in waves. This month it's guns, next month I'll be back to guitar, or model cars, or my project pickup truck, or my car, or something. Eventually, I'll come back to guns, and be wanting something else new. I think after I get the 1911, and a shotgun, I'll be done. Until the next new thing comes out.

LC

You need to understand that by having to wait a month, you'll have the opportunity to change your mind a dozen times as to how you want to configure your new acquisition. :)

With a Glock it's just a matter of stipple, saw, cut, grind, melt, boil, bend, blend and mend the "Perfection." :rofl:

Cobra64
03-02-2010, 17:32
buy the parts before the gun, so that will keep the lust alive :rofl:

if i had a nickel for every time i've heard that :)That's fer sure. I'm averaging two 1911s a year and looking at my first AR.

Quack
03-02-2010, 17:34
HAHA! Thanks for the "support"! :devilish::cheers:

no problem.
here's one of the Loaded's i used to own and worked on.
sold it to a friend and it's still going strong.
he's in a shooting league and does very well with it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v607/danno_man/1911a_trigger.jpg

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 17:35
That's fer sure. I'm averaging two 1911s a year and looking at my first AR.

Awesome! My AR was my gun obsession before last. Then came my hunting rifle, and now the 1911!

LC

Quack
03-02-2010, 17:35
That's fer sure. I'm averaging two 1911s a year and looking at my first AR.

i'll trade you an AR for a 1911 :rofl:

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 17:39
no problem.
here's one of the Loaded's i used to own and worked on.
sold it to a friend and it's still going strong.
he's in a shooting league and does very well with it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v607/danno_man/1911a_trigger.jpg

:notworthy::hearts::drool:

Is that a scale to measure trigger pull? That's one of the things that got me wanting the Taurus. The one I shot had a trigger that I swear would go off if you sneezed on it! Never felt anything like it. Then again, I was just used to the trigger on the Glocks at that time.

LC

Quack
03-02-2010, 17:41
:notworthy::hearts::drool:

Is that a scale to measure trigger pull? That's one of the things that got me wanting the Taurus. The one I shot had a trigger that I swear would go off if you sneezed on it! Never felt anything like it. Then again, I was just used to the trigger on the Glocks at that time.

LC

yep, it's a trigger scale.
what's displayed is the average after 10 measurements.
after i sold it to him, i increased the pull weight up to 4#'s

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 17:46
yep, it's a trigger scale.
what's displayed is the average after 10 measurements.
after i sold it to him, i increased the pull weight up to 4#'s


Is this done by simply adjusting the screw, or is there 'smithing to be done?

Also, if I wanted to get the matte surfaces on the Loaded to be black, or maybe just the frame, what term am I looking for? Blueing? Parkerizing? Duracoating? I still want to get the slide on my HK refinished in stainless. I've got one too many all black guns.

LC

Quack
03-02-2010, 17:53
Is this done by simply adjusting the screw, or is there 'smithing to be done?

Also, if I wanted to get the matte surfaces on the Loaded to be black, or maybe just the frame, what term am I looking for? Blueing? Parkerizing? Duracoating? I still want to get the slide on my HK refinished in stainless. I've got one too many all black guns.

LC

have tools, will travel. hmmm, that's pretty much what i do for work :rofl:
It's not as easy as turning a screw, you have to get the parts to fit/work together right.
I use the Ed Brown sear jig, files and stones.

to get the parts black on the certain areas of the stainless gun, you'll have to use one of the spray on finishes and mask off the areas where you want it to be stainless.
you can't blue stainless. parkerizing you dunk the whole part in.

Loudcherokee
03-02-2010, 18:01
have tools, will travel. hmmm, that's pretty much what i do for work :rofl:
It's not as easy as turning a screw, you have to get the parts to fit/work together right.
I use the Ed Brown sear jig, files and stones.

to get the parts black on the certain areas of the stainless gun, you'll have to use one of the spray on finishes and mask off the areas where you want it to be stainless.
you can't blue stainless. parkerizing you dunk the whole part in.

Ahhh...I see.

What is the spray on finish I should be looking for though? I guess I should say "what is the google term I need?" lol. I know I cant just go down to K-mart and buy a can of Krylon and start spraying away, can I?


ETA: I just noticed you're in NE Ohio, lol. Maybe when I get this thing, you can show me the ropes? I was looking over the PDF manual on springfields website, and takedown looks confusing!

LC

LC

Quack
03-02-2010, 18:04
Ahhh...I see.

What is the spray on finish I should be looking for though? I guess I should say "what is the google term I need?" lol. I know I cant just go down to K-mart and buy a can of Krylon and start spraying away, can I?

LC


you can if you want :rofl:

maybe something like Cerakote might be easy. I haven't done any finishes.

ambluemax
03-02-2010, 20:35
There is a support group. Its called 1911forum.com....they are a bad influence though. I average a 1911 per year since I started over there.

Quack
03-02-2010, 20:51
There is a support group. Its called 1911forum.com....they are a bad influence though. I average a 1911 per year since I started over there.

:rofl:

Loudcherokee
03-04-2010, 16:42
Well,

Another thread got me thinking. If I could swing the extra money for a Springfield TRP, would yinz recommend it?

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/43771

It's over double what I was originally planning on spending, but it sure does look perty. What are the differences between the Loaded and the TRP, besides the grips and the match barrel?

LC

Quack
03-04-2010, 17:12
yep, much better than a Loaded.

here's a pic of the TRP's frame to slide fit.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/Quackzilla/DSC_0342.jpg

Loudcherokee
03-04-2010, 17:16
I'm guessing you're talking about how closely things are put together there? Do you have a similar pic of a loaded?

If I can get just as good of quality out of the loaded, I'd rather save $500 if I can. I still have to buy ammo, WC mags, a holster or two, and mag carriers.

LC

Quack
03-04-2010, 17:32
I'm guessing you're talking about how closely things are put together there? Do you have a similar pic of a loaded?

If I can get just as good of quality out of the loaded, I'd rather save $500 if I can. I still have to buy ammo, WC mags, a holster or two, and mag carriers.

LC

just took a pic of a 9mm Loaded.
this one has a bit of vertical movement, not too bad though.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/Quackzilla/Guns/DSC_1474.jpg

TRP
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/Quackzilla/DSC_0342.jpg

here's a pic of a Brown.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/Quackzilla/Guns/DSC_9156.jpg

ambluemax
03-04-2010, 18:04
As I said earlier (I think) the TRP is a better gun, but the price has gone up on them over the last couple years. I thought they were an awsome value when they were easy to find under $1100 NIB. I already had the hots for one really bad when I turned a blind eye and spent just under $1200 for a LNIB (when NIB was hard to find under $1400, but possible). Now you can't really find them for less than $1400, a lot of times your talkin $1500...for what you actually get, at that price I think they are over priced. Having shot semi-customs, that amount of money for a production gun just doesn't sit well with me...I'll move into the world of semi-customs instead, or in your case not bother to upgrade from a loaded purchase.

What do you actually get over a Loaded with a TRP? A mag well, 20LPI checkering on the front strap, more agressive grips, and they assembled with a little more TLC and with tighter tolerances in the custom shop (parts still made in brazil, but assembled in the USA). You can feel the difference if you have spent some time around and with a few 1911's. They are sweet guns if you don't mind the price. Then again, if you don't shoot much, the differences might be lost on you too...

Edit** and finish wise the black version is armory kote which is an upgrade from parkerized on the loaded and the stainless is bead blasted for a matte finish instead of shiney on the loaded.

Loudcherokee
03-06-2010, 08:33
UGHH! This is becoming difficult.

I really like the stainless TRP, but I'm trying to justify the extra cash. I like the stainless Loaded, but fear getting one that isn't put together quite as well as others, and every local gun shop I call says "have you looked at the Taurus 1911's? They're REALLY nice guns for the options available at their prices". Even after I say "well, I started off looking at them, but the reputation seems to be hit or miss from what I've been reading all over the net", they say, "I haven't had a single one come back" or "We've only had one or two come back, one with a user induced problem, and the other was something I've had to fix on ALL 1911's".

In the end, I don't think I can justify the extra money for the TRP. I just dont know if I want to spend $1300 on a pistol. My AR didn't even cost that much, and that's WITH the holosight. My hunting rifle didn't cost that much, but close.

One of the local shops has several different 1911's in stock, including the Taurus, SA loaded, S&W, Colt, and I think he said Kimber. No TRP's in stock though. Maybe I'll take a ride out there and put my hands on them to see which I like best, but I'm stuck here with not knowing what key points to look for when comparing.

LC

Quack
03-06-2010, 08:44
If YOU will be happy get the Loaded, but if you are second guessing yourself, then get the TRP.

or as most of us have done, we bought a Loaded, then we ended up buying a TRP down the road.

If anything, i say buy a mil-spec, and build it as time/money allows.

if you're up for a little drive, i think Stocker's in Warren, OH should have the guns that you want to look at. last time i was there they had a decent selection of Springfield's

here's some reading for you:
http://www.americanpistol.com/join_the_guild/1911checksheet.pdf

Loudcherokee
03-11-2010, 19:40
Well,

I took the plunge. I went with the stainless TRP. It had all the features already on it that I wanted. Stainless finish, checkering front and back, G10 grips, ambi safety, and night sights.

Got a great deal on it from Basin Sports, based out of Utah. Did the whole transaction with a guy named Marcus. He couldn't have made it easier. Now I just gotta settle in for the wait for it to get to my FFL.

LC

Fire_Medic
03-11-2010, 20:06
Well,

I took the plunge. I went with the stainless TRP. It had all the features already on it that I wanted. Stainless finish, checkering front and back, G10 grips, ambi safety, and night sights.

Got a great deal on it from Basin Sports, based out of Utah. Did the whole transaction with a guy named Marcus. He couldn't have made it easier. Now I just gotta settle in for the wait for it to get to my FFL.

LC

Congrats the TRP is a GREAT 1911. :wavey:

TexasVine
03-11-2010, 21:27
Congrats on the TRP. I love it in the stainless. You'll be glad you took the plunge.

rottboy_8
03-12-2010, 10:28
....took the plunge. I went with the stainless TRP. .....settle in for the wait for it to get to my FFL. LC

LC, wow, great score. :wow: Looks like your going to be a happy camper with your new TRP. Have fired basic Springfields in the past but never their high end stuff. From the comments, write-ups, reviews and photos, this is one nice performing good looking 1911. As others mentioned, don't forget to post your pics and range report.:highfive: Happy shooting!!!!

Loudcherokee
03-16-2010, 18:03
Well here she is!

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/Loudcherokee/Springfield%201911/DSCF1679.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/Loudcherokee/Springfield%201911/DSCF1682.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/Loudcherokee/Springfield%201911/DSCF1680.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/Loudcherokee/Springfield%201911/DSCF1683-1.jpg

sawgrass
03-16-2010, 22:11
Congratulations!! It's hard to stop at one 1911...:supergrin:

Let us know how she shoots.

CMG
03-16-2010, 22:58
Well,

I took the plunge. I went with the stainless TRP. It had all the features already on it that I wanted. Stainless finish, checkering front and back, G10 grips, ambi safety, and night sights.

Got a great deal on it from Basin Sports, based out of Utah. Did the whole transaction with a guy named Marcus. He couldn't have made it easier. Now I just gotta settle in for the wait for it to get to my FFL.

LC

Just don't get it nickel-plated! :supergrin:

I've been quite pleased with my own stainless TRP.

Cobra64
03-16-2010, 23:28
Well here she is!

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e210/Loudcherokee/Springfield%201911/DSCF1683-1.jpg
Excellent! Very nice. But you know, now you're going to have to change your signature. :supergrin: