Front Sight Pins Won't Move [Archive] - Glock Talk

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n2wishn
03-02-2010, 16:26
I got a brand new Daniel Defense XV upper and I want to remove the Front Sight Post and gas tube so I can add the Daniel Defense Omega 12.0 FSP rail but the pins on the front sight won't budge. I have the Brownells Pin block and I tap the pins and all the punch does is slide right off. I'm starting to get frustrated I have never had this problem before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

NeverMore1701
03-02-2010, 17:07
Eesh, tell me about it. Have a 2 page thread of my own regarding that, but with a BCM upper. Broke 3 punches so far.

mvician
03-02-2010, 17:37
Don't "tap" the pins.......HIT them.

n2wishn
03-02-2010, 17:39
Don't "tap" the pins.......HIT them.

LOL! I hit them so hard I broke a punch and had to go buy another set. They just won't move! I'm no flake... those babies are in there. Almost like some one stuck a cold piece a metal in a heated piece of metal to make sure they didn't move. :shocked:

faawrenchbndr
03-02-2010, 17:56
LOL! I hit them so hard I broke a punch and had to go buy another set. They just won't move! I'm no flake... those babies are in there. Almost like some one stuck a cold piece a metal in a heated piece of metal to make sure they didn't move. :shocked:

What direction are you trying to drive the taper pins?

n2wishn
03-02-2010, 18:26
Using the Brownells Front Sight Block with the Pins Out position facing up, I would be pushing the pins from the left side of the rifle to the right. When putting them back in it would be the reverse. This is how I have always done it. Only on this upper they are not moving.

faawrenchbndr
03-02-2010, 19:00
Bigger hammer. I use a 1.5 pound mini sledge. Are the pin ends peened now?

furioso2112
03-02-2010, 19:25
I was going to recommend Nevermore's thread in case he had figured something out, but he's already been here. Contact the manuf?

n2wishn
03-02-2010, 19:32
Bigger hammer. I use a 1.5 pound mini sledge. Are the pin ends peened now?

No, the pins are not peened at all that is the wierd part. I'm flattening punches and breaking punches and the pins are not moving.

NeverMore1701
03-02-2010, 21:09
No, the pins are not peened at all that is the wierd part. I'm flattening punches and breaking punches and the pins are not moving.

Exactly same here. I started out with a 20oz hammer, and then upgraded to a 3lb mini-sledge. Damn things Will.Not.Move. :faint:

duncan
03-05-2010, 00:01
http://www.everything-tractor-trailer.com/images/PB-sm.jpg

Spray PB Blaster on the FSB pins and wait 10 minutes.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nail-set.jpg

Use a finish nail set (middle) and put the hurt on those pins with the hammer of Thor. Wrap tip of nail set in electric tape/duct tape so it does not slip.

Drive it home.

Works every time.

jdm0506
03-05-2010, 12:54
What sort of punches you using? I can see bending the punches, but breaking? I used a tapered punch about the size of the taper pins. I'd initially tried with a punch from a friend's DPMS punch kit. I mangled that thing good. I ended up going to Sears and picking up a $2 off brand punch.

You only really need the beefy punch to get the pins started out. The larger surface area of the larger punch reduces the amount of slippage. Plus, if it slips, it doesn't really matter if you ding the FSB. I dinged mine quite a bit around the pin holes, and when I installed my 12.0 FSP, you couldn't see it.

faawrenchbndr
03-05-2010, 13:33
....Use a finish nail set (middle) and put the hurt on those pins with the hammer of Thor......

Those work for me also!.........:supergrin:
My nail sets are nowhere near as fancy as yours though! :rofl:

Spiffums
03-05-2010, 14:37
Don't "tap" the pins.......HIT them.

Like a screen door in a hurricane.:rofl:

faawrenchbndr
03-05-2010, 15:17
Don't "tap" the pins.......HIT them.

Like a Pimp smackin his Ho!

n2wishn
03-05-2010, 17:19
What sort of punches you using? I can see bending the punches, but breaking? I used a tapered punch about the size of the taper pins. I'd initially tried with a punch from a friend's DPMS punch kit. I mangled that thing good. I ended up going to Sears and picking up a $2 off brand punch.

You only really need the beefy punch to get the pins started out. The larger surface area of the larger punch reduces the amount of slippage. Plus, if it slips, it doesn't really matter if you ding the FSB. I dinged mine quite a bit around the pin holes, and when I installed my 12.0 FSP, you couldn't see it.

The punch set I broke came from Northern Tool. I then ordered some from Brownells and I haven't broken those but I do plan on getting some PB Blaster and trying that method.

n2wishn
03-05-2010, 17:20
http://www.everything-tractor-trailer.com/images/PB-sm.jpg

Spray PB Blaster on the FSB pins and wait 10 minutes.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nail-set.jpg

Use a finish nail set (middle) and put the hurt on those pins with the hammer of Thor. Wrap tip of nail set in electric tape/duct tape so it does not slip.

Drive it home.

Works every time.

Thanks for the info! I'm putting this plan into action.

Unistat
03-05-2010, 17:46
Part of the reason the punch is sliding off could be that the punch tip is convex (or flat) and the pins are convex.

After I snapped the shank on my punch, I took a Dremel and ground a concave dish in what was left of my punch. After that, one good whack knocked 'em loose.

TimP
03-05-2010, 21:11
um, forgive me if I am wrong, but.......

Do you need to remove the FSB to install an omega rail?

Ljunatic
03-05-2010, 22:08
Omega X rail FSP has a special steel barrel nut like the Lite rail, that must be installed first

TimP
03-05-2010, 22:09
rgr that, thanks

vettely
03-06-2010, 16:38
Omega X rail FSP has a special steel barrel nut like the Lite rail, that must be installed first
and don't forget you have to have their damn propreitary wrench.

faawrenchbndr
03-06-2010, 16:43
and don't forget you have to have their damn propreitary wrench.

I have one if anyone needs to borrow it, we can work out details.

n2wishn
03-16-2010, 18:51
http://www.everything-tractor-trailer.com/images/PB-sm.jpg

Spray PB Blaster on the FSB pins and wait 10 minutes.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nail-set.jpg

Use a finish nail set (middle) and put the hurt on those pins with the hammer of Thor. Wrap tip of nail set in electric tape/duct tape so it does not slip.

Drive it home.

Works every time.

This was an awesome tip! It worked! Man it worked the first time. I actually like the finishing nail set better than the regular punch set and it was much cheaper.

Thanks again Duncan!

vettely
03-16-2010, 19:33
This was an awesome tip! It worked! Man it worked the first time. I actually like the finishing nail set better than the regular punch set and it was much cheaper.

Thanks again Duncan!
That is good to hear. I just picked up a nail punch set just like that at Harbor for $1.99. The plastic seems like it will make it easier to hold while hitting it.

GLOCKMASTER
03-17-2010, 18:42
Here is how Bravo Company suggests removing the pins:

From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.

1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).

2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.

3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.

4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.

5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16”). It’s a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16” punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.

6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8” punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.

7) Celebrate. You are done.