Anyone used mineral oil for honing oil? [Archive] - Glock Talk

PDA

View Full Version : Anyone used mineral oil for honing oil?


Derylak
03-21-2010, 14:01
I usually use a Lansky sharpening system for my knife honing needs, along with Smith's Honing Solution. I like the Smiths over regular honing oil as it's non-petroleum based and as such, doesn't stain and cleans up easy.

I recently got my hands on one of Cold Steel's Special Forces shovels and would like to work on the edge some. I have one of Lansky's Puck sharpeners, which I've used on larger tasks in past. My issue is that the stone is REALLY thirsty- I feel like I can easily pour several tablespoons of honing solution into it, and I only have a small bottle on hand. What I DO have in fair supply, is mineral oil (food grade, suitable for using on wood cutting boards.) In the distant past I've used water for my hones, but after having a few of develop rust from embedded metal filings I steer clear.

Long winded background done, anyone out there have any experience using mineral oil as a cutting fluid with your honing stones? Is this a suitable substitute for honing oil/solution, or am I just going to end up with a gummy, sticky stone? Advice, suggestions or warnings are welcome, thanks.

Glock2008
03-22-2010, 07:46
I don't see why it wouldn't work. I've used synthetic motor oil in the past with no ill effects to the stone. I see no problem with mineral oil.

syntaxerrorsix
03-22-2010, 19:12
<-- Use it for food grade blades.

Smoker
03-22-2010, 19:32
Hell I use soapy water, spent 8+ years in a slaughterhouse, all you need is something to clean & clear the stone. After you do the dishes grab the stone & the blade.

Derylak
03-29-2010, 16:30
Thanks for the thoughts. I've found some info on the net both for and against the idea. Interestingly, several of the proponents of using mineral oil recommended thinning it with mineral spirits before use (which sounds like a mess.) I ended up exercising patience and waiting to pick up some more Smith's before going at the honing.

Btw, I'm really liking the Cold Steel Special Forces shovel. It's no heavier than my E-tool, and while it doesn't fold, it's definitely more stout. I've not tried my hand at throwing it yet (as per Cold Steel's video,) but I have gone after some 2x4's and it bites well. The curve of the blade makes it tricky to sharpen- you can really only hone the outside (convex) edge. I used a Lansky Puck for the bulk of the work, but found that it rolled the edge just a bit toward the inside. After puzzling over how to straighten the inside edge I ended up pulling out my chef's steel. I couldn't get at the concave edge with a wide stone, but the steel worked great.

sns3guppy
03-29-2010, 23:45
3 in 1 oil works just fine.

jlavely
03-30-2010, 17:29
I use a Sharpmaker so I don't use oil to hone. BUT, I do clean and coat my blades in a light coat of mineral oil.

mitchshrader
04-09-2010, 16:43
using oil to hone is silly. truly. it's unnecessary, redundant, makes sharpening harder.

it's NEVER necessary. that said, kerosene works well enough, or 10 weight 'sewing machine' oil.

if you want to do it wrong, why worry about details?

And there may be in fact a few folks with more knives, and certainly some with a LOT more money invested in knives.. but my whetstone orchestra is world class and i do know whereof i speak. Ditch the oil, diluted detergent is sufficient if plain water isn't. Or facrisesakes, SPIT on the rock, but not oil. Makes as much sense to use oil as to use mud to wash socks..

Front Sight
04-09-2010, 16:46
I have always used kerosene. I was told that it won't load up the stone like oil.

N.D.Glock23
04-17-2010, 23:51
Edited and replied in red within.

I recently got my hands on one of Cold Steel's Special Forces shovels and would like to work on the edge some.
I would start W a Fine smooth Mill file to get the coating off the edge 1st so it wouldn't get in, or clog my stone, then I would start W the Puck. I have one of Lansky's Puck sharpeners, which I've used on larger tasks in past. My issue is that the stone is REALLY thirsty- I feel like I can easily pour several tablespoons of honing solution into it, and I only have a small bottle on hand.
I would fore go oil and soak the stone in a bucket of clean water over night then during use just keep the bucket NXT to you and dip the stone to keep it wet when it needs it. What I DO have in fair supply, is mineral oil M oil is fine to use I use it myself when I use oil to sharpen. In the distant past I've used water for my hones, but after having a few of develop rust from embedded metal filings I steer clear. Its just cosmetic, your stones will be just fine just keep using water, it works great for most stones, ceramics, stages and styles of sharpening.

Long winded background done, anyone out there have any experience using mineral oil as a cutting fluid with your honing stones? Is this a suitable substitute for honing oil/solution, or am I just going to end up with a gummy, sticky stone? Advice, suggestions or warnings are welcome, thanks.

I have hundreds of $$ tied up in my sharpening stones, kits and abrasives and I use H2O almost exclusively, on the rare times that I switch to oil I use mineral oil, but only on diamond abrasive hones, IE; flat steel plates, or specific stones, like some of my Arkansas Natural oil-stones, and when I do this its only because I'm trying to avoid my Carbon steel from rusting during an extended blade/edge geometry re-profiling session.

ETA
Note:
"I will not use nor will I EVER recommend any chemicals for sharpening!" Just personal choice YMMV

hope this helps, Good luck! :wavey:

N.D.

mitchshrader
04-18-2010, 00:07
And you are entirely and completely correct, sir.

And I SAID something very nearly like that, considering I have several hundred dollars tied up in EACH of a dozen or more stones..

and a mess I snagged from the uninformed as well.

I have stones that cost double the most expensive knife in my collection.

Get thee to a norton 1000/4000 waterstone, and in a year go buy some good rocks.

You won't want to thank me, I'm rude. But I'm right, too.