Locking block and trigger pins won't budge [Archive] - Glock Talk

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21Glock
03-21-2010, 17:58
Hi guys,
I just got my new 21SF frame from Glock last week. It has the standard mag release in comparison to the ambi mag release that was on the original frame that started to dump mags recently.
I had a 3.5lb. connector that I liked very much and I had installed in the original frame and removed it and re-installed the original connector when I turned back in the original frame to Glock.
I was wanting to install the 3.5lb. connector into the new 21SF frame. I have the standard Glock dis-assembly tool that I use to do this. I had no trouble removing the pins before in my original frame.
I went to push the locking block and trigger pins out in my new frame to begin the dis-assembly process to change the connector and they wouldn't budge! It's almost like they are put in there with Loctite. I did not and will not use a hammer to do this.
What could be the problem here? Is this just new and tight and might need to be shot a little loose with a few range sessions or is there something else that might be causing this. Should I place a drop or two of say Kroils Oil onto the pins heads overnight and let it sink down into the binding areas of the pins to loosen them up?
The rear trigger assembly pin in the backstrap area moves freely and ok when pressed with the Glock tool.

Thanks.

KS-Glock
03-21-2010, 18:10
Try turning the gun over and try the pins from the other side? I had a 17 that worked the same way.

21Glock
03-21-2010, 20:13
Try turning the gun over and try the pins from the other side? I had a 17 that worked the same way.

I'll try it that way. Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

481
03-21-2010, 21:02
Glad to hear that you've decided not to resort to the hammer.

You should be drifting those two pins towards the ejection port side of the frame. If they hang up at the start of the attempt to drift them, "reset them" gently by tapping them gently in the reverse direction.

Trick is to shift the slide release lever assembly forward and backward (to and fro, if that does it for you) as well as a little bit up and down relative to the component's position. I've had the best luck with an almost circular shifting pattern and once you find out how to finesse the part it'll come easier each time you do it. Trigger pin first, then the locking block pin. :winkie:

Just be patient, "reset" the pin when you need to and realize that it will drift with a little coaxing and you'll get there.

A little tip: lay a roll of duct or masking tape on its side and lay the center of the receiver (where the trigger and block pins are located) over the open center of the core while drifting the pins. This'll will keep the receiver up off of the work surface and allow those pins to move out of the frame without the surface blocking their movement and will also free a hand for the task.


You may consider yourself a "professional" once you can do it in under 5 seconds while using less than five cuss words. :supergrin: No hammers.

Good luck.

:)

21Glock
03-21-2010, 21:57
Glad to hear that you've decided not to resort to the hammer.

You should be drifting those two pins towards the ejection port side of the frame. If they hang up at the start of the attempt to drift them, "reset them" gently by tapping them gently in the reverse direction.

Trick is to shift the slide release lever assembly forward and backward (to and fro, if that does it for you) as well as a little bit up and down relative to the component's position. I've had the best luck with an almost circular shifting pattern and once you find out how to finesse the part it'll come easier each time you do it. Trigger pin first, then the locking block pin. :winkie:

Just be patient, "reset" the pin when you need to and realize that it will drift with a little coaxing and you'll get there.

A little tip: lay a roll of duct or masking tape on its side and lay the center of the receiver (where the trigger and block pins are located) over the open center of the core while drifting the pins. This'll will keep the receiver up off of the work surface and allow those pins to move out of the frame without the surface blocking their movement and will also free a hand for the task.


You may consider yourself a "professional" once you can do it in under 5 seconds while using less than five cuss words. :supergrin: No hammers.

Good luck.

:)

Thanks, I'll try those tips tomorrow night. It's late and I just watched American go down the road to socialism another mile or ten night, so I'm hitting the hay!

481
03-22-2010, 19:25
Thanks, I'll try those tips tomorrow night. It's late and I just watched American go down the road to socialism another mile or ten night, so I'm hitting the hay!

Mad enough to chew nails over it. Thank Heavens the Dems know what is best for we Americans too stupid to figure things out for ourselves. :shakehead:

Back OT- Let us know how you do with them tricky little pins. :supergrin:

21Glock
03-22-2010, 21:05
Mad enough to chew nails over it. Thank Heavens the Dems know what is best for we Americans too stupid to figure things out for ourselves. :shakehead:

Back OT- Let us know how you do with them tricky little pins. :supergrin:


It is still not moving. I'll work on it some more tomorrow night.
It's funny, the trigger on the new frame feels smoother than a stock 5.5lb. I don't know, I may shoot it this weekend and see how my groups are. I know Glock wouldn't install a 3.5lb. connector with a frame coming out of the factory, but it doesn't really feel stock to me, pull wise that is.

BurkGlocker
03-22-2010, 21:21
I had to use a plastic headed hammer and lightly tap the locking block pin out and then the other. I took it to the local Glock armorer and she couldnt get them out and decided to give up on it before I HAD to resort to a hammer. Yeah, yeah, I know, hammers are bad news on Glocks, but when you want it done, sometimes you have to squeeze the Charmin.

BG

481
03-22-2010, 21:51
It is still not moving. I'll work on it some more tomorrow night.
It's funny, the trigger on the new frame feels smoother than a stock 5.5lb. I don't know, I may shoot it this weekend and see how my groups are. I know Glock wouldn't install a 3.5lb. connector with a frame coming out of the factory, but it doesn't really feel stock to me, pull wise that is.

I've noticed that trend, too.

The last two years seems to have ushered in a nicer trigger pull characteristic to this section of production. The triggers feel smoother than ever before with cleaner modulation. Still 5.5, but a smoother 5.5.

Me like. :supergrin:

Sorry to hear that you are still seeing difficulty with the task, are cussing at your Glock and hurting its feelings or speaking sweetly to it as you try to drift those pins? Afterall, I did say that you have to "finesse" it, my friend. :winkie:

squirrelsniper
03-23-2010, 02:32
I've had to use a small hammer several times to get pins out of new Glocks. You don't need to be pounding on them, but sometimes a couple taps are needed the first time the pins are removed. Also, as already mentioned, you will likely have to work the slide stop lever a bit while trying to remove the locking block pin.

21Glock
03-23-2010, 06:08
I've noticed that trend, too.

The last two years seems to have ushered in a nicer trigger pull characteristic to this section of production. The triggers feel smoother than ever before with cleaner modulation. Still 5.5, but a smoother 5.5.

Me like. :supergrin:

Sorry to hear that you are still seeing difficulty with the task, are cussing at your Glock and hurting its feelings or speaking sweetly to it as you try to drift those pins? Afterall, I did say that you have to "finesse" it, my friend. :winkie:

I will use a little Kroils Oil on the heads of the pins overnight and see if that may loosen any binding. If they still don't budge with me pushing on them, while doing the other things you recommend. I'll leave them alone for a while and shoot this weekend and see how my groups do.
Thanks!

21Glock
03-23-2010, 22:27
Well, I went back to it again this evening. I put a little Kroils Oil on the pins heads and let it sink in a little. Nothing changed!
I am wondering that even though the pins heads are lined up in the holes on both sides, if one or both of the pins may be bent and be binding up somewhere in the frame.
I've never seen pins this tight and not moveable in a Glock or any firearm for that matter.
I am tempted to take it to Glock HQ here in Atlanta and have them see if they can get them out. I know telling them that I want to put in a 3.5lb. connector in the new frame would go over like a lead balloon with them. I can hear it now, "Sir, this will void your warranty if you do this".
Even though if I wasn't going to change anything, I would think eventually I would want to clean in that area and I can't get to it with the pins being so stubborn.
Other than the mag dumping which made my old frame useless, I miss the smooth pin removal that it had.

481
03-24-2010, 10:33
Well, I went back to it again this evening. I put a little Kroils Oil on the pins heads and let it sink in a little. Nothing changed!
I am wondering that even though the pins heads are lined up in the holes on both sides, if one or both of the pins may be bent and be binding up somewhere in the frame.
I've never seen pins this tight and not moveable in a Glock or any firearm for that matter.
I am tempted to take it to Glock HQ here in Atlanta and have them see if they can get them out. I know telling them that I want to put in a 3.5lb. connector in the new frame would go over like a lead balloon with them. I can hear it now, "Sir, this will void your warranty if you do this".
Even though if I wasn't going to change anything, I would think eventually I would want to clean in that area and I can't get to it with the pins being so stubborn.
Other than the mag dumping which made my old frame useless, I miss the smooth pin removal that it had.


Time to break out the arbor press!



OK...not.

In all seriousness, it is time to look into making a connection with a nearby Glock armorer who is cool with what you wanna do with your Glock. Smyrna might object to what you are doing and dealing with an individual might be your best bet if you don't wanna hear it from the manufacturer.

I'm cool with what you are wanting to do, but way far off from you and I can't see you popping for a first class seat to fly me all the way down there and then put me up in a 5 star hotel for a few nights just for this. :supergrin:

21Glock
03-24-2010, 13:59
Time to break out the arbor press!



OK...not.

In all seriousness, it is time to look into making a connection with a nearby Glock armorer who is cool with what you wanna do with your Glock. Smyrna might object to what you are doing and dealing with an individual might be your best bet if you don't wanna hear it from the manufacturer.

I'm cool with what you are wanting to do, but way far off from you and I can't see you popping for a first class seat to fly me all the way down there and then put me up in a 5 star hotel for a few nights just for this. :supergrin:

It's only money, LOL. I wish I could. But I am working 3 little jobs to try to make up for the bigger money I used to make. Ask someone like me how the "change" is working for them. @$#@@$!!!! I didn't vote for this clown either.
Do you have connections with an Armorer in the Atlanta area or do you think I might need to do a post here to find one possibly? I think if I every got them to move at all, I would be OK and they would come out. It's almost they are press fitted into the frame. It don't see how someone could have done that without some device like a hammer or something like that.
Thanks for all your help!

481
03-24-2010, 15:18
It's only money, LOL. I wish I could. But I am working 3 little jobs to try to make up for the bigger money I used to make. Ask someone like me how the "change" is working for them. @$#@@$!!!! I didn't vote for this clown either.
Do you have connections with an Armorer in the Atlanta area or do you think I might need to do a post here to find one possibly? I think if I every got them to move at all, I would be OK and they would come out. It's almost they are press fitted into the frame. It don't see how someone could have done that without some device like a hammer or something like that.
Thanks for all your help!

Sure, wish I could do more for you. (I am always open to that first class airline ticket and a few nights paid in a 5 star hotel room. Tell ya what, I will throw the service charge in for "free"! How's that?) :animlol:

Other than the phone number to the Smyrna facility, I have no contacts in ATL in the way of local armorers. Give Smyrna a call, worst they can say is "get lost". :dunno:But I bet they won't. :winkie:

Bet a post in this forum (or GG, if the mods'll permit it) will give you decent results, too.

What have you got to lose? It's free!

DannyR
03-24-2010, 16:09
Shooting a few hundred rounds as is will loosen things up a bit. Then, remove the locking block pin first. Don't forget to wiggle the slide stop lever while pushing on the trigger pin.

21Glock
03-24-2010, 18:37
Shooting a few hundred rounds as is will loosen things up a bit. Then, remove the locking block pin first. Don't forget to wiggle the slide stop lever while pushing on the trigger pin.

I am going to be doing that this weekend. It's a tough job shooting my 21SF to loosen it up, but somehow I'll make it through :cool:
I have it outfitted with a 22lb. ISMI recoil spring and a SS guide rod and a LWD barrel and new .45 Super brass. I'll be trying out some more .45 Super rounds. When I shot them a few weeks ago in my old frame, it was like the milk jug filled with water that was my target, was being hit by a magnum revolver or a 10mm round. I liked it alot. I am very careful on my reloads to stay within .45 Super specs. and maybe a little below them. I will only shoot them occasionally, not all the time.

Thanks!

ChrisJn
03-24-2010, 19:42
Stripped a newish G22 Gen4 today and have to report I removed the pins with great difficulty, much more so than any previous Glock I have ever stripped.
Removal of the pins took a lot more pressure than usual but they did come out without recourse to a hammer. To quote the Armorer's manual regarding trigger pin removal:
"IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO USE EXCESSIVE FORCE TO REMOVE THIS PIN!
NEW WEAPONS NEED MORE PRESSURE!"
Hope this helps.

21Glock
03-24-2010, 20:55
Stripped a newish G22 Gen4 today and have to report I removed the pins with great difficulty, much more so than any previous Glock I have ever stripped.
Removal of the pins took a lot more pressure than usual but they did come out without recourse to a hammer. To quote the Armorer's manual regarding trigger pin removal:
"IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO USE EXCESSIVE FORCE TO REMOVE THIS PIN!
NEW WEAPONS NEED MORE PRESSURE!"
Hope this helps.

Thanks! Maybe shooting it good bit will loose it up. I remember shooting with the original frame a few times before I tried to take those pins out. That may be the trick. We'll see.
Thanks again for the update!

Glock4Life
03-24-2010, 23:23
I've used a hammer on newer pins, it's not that big of a deal. Just don't go into it with a BFH state of mind. :supergrin:

You don't have to use a hammer either, handle of a screwdriver, small block of wood etc. Something to give you just a slight bit of force more than just pushing them out which is all it will take aside from the first removal. Make sure to observe Danny's advice of wiggling the SSL while removing the trigger pin as it can hang up due to contact with the SSL spring.

Lastly, make sure it's in a position that allows the pins to move outward without hitting an underlying surface such as a shop bench or table. Most likely, all you'll have to do is get them started moving and then you may be able to move to a hand push and drop the tapping tool of choice. If light tapping doesn't do the trick then stop and regroup but I rather doubt that will occur.

21Glock
03-25-2010, 07:03
I've used a hammer on newer pins, it's not that big of a deal. Just don't go into it with a BFH state of mind. :supergrin:

You don't have to use a hammer either, handle of a screwdriver, small block of wood etc. Something to give you just a slight bit of force more than just pushing them out which is all it will take aside from the first removal. Make sure to observe Danny's advice of wiggling the SSL while removing the trigger pin as it can hang up due to contact with the SSL spring.

Lastly, make sure it's in a position that allows the pins to move outward without hitting an underlying surface such as a shop bench or table. Most likely, all you'll have to do is get them started moving and then you may be able to move to a hand push and drop the tapping tool of choice. If light tapping doesn't do the trick then stop and regroup but I rather doubt that will occur.
Thanks I'll try that, too.