Trick to getting tight locking block and trigger pins out? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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21Glock
03-22-2010, 20:56
Hi JR,
I just got my new frame back from Glock for my 21SF. The original was starting to drop mags because of the ambi mag release. Glock knows of this with the ambis and exchanged my original for a standard mag release SF, no problem.
Anyway, I had a 3.5lb. connector that I installed in my original frame and I liked it alot and took it out before I gave the original frame back to Glock. I have a Glock dis-assembly tool and I was trying to take out the trigger and locking block pins last night in the new 21SF frame to take the stock 5.5lb. connector out and to put the 3.5lb. connector in.
The pins won't budge! It's almost feels like they are put in there with Loctite, which I'm sure Glock wouldn't do. I did not and will not use a hammer to do something like this. The pins on the original frame would push right out with the Glock tool. The rear trigger pin in the backstrap of the frame will move in and out like it should.
Any tricks you could share to help me with this task of getting the pins out?

Thanks!

JR
03-24-2010, 10:17
New guns will sometimes give you fits! If your new gun is tight you might try removing the locking block pin (small top pin) and then the trigger housing pin (located in the grip) first. Once you have removed these pins the trigger pin (largest pin) will be easier to manipulate. Always push the trigger pin from left to right, this way you will only have one ring to push through.

I use a roll of duct tape as a Armorers bench. This way the frame can lay flat on the roll and the center of the roll will catch the pins. You want to push the pin out L to R. Move the slide stop forward and back so you can feel the (ring) grove in the trigger pin. When you think you have the slide stop centered try and push the trigger pin out. If the trigger pin binds:
You will know when the slide stop binds into the (ring) grove of the trigger pin because the slide stop will suddenly become (almost) impossible to move forward or back (not up and down).
Flip the frame over and push the pin back towards the other direction to relieve pressure on the slide stop. Turn the frame back over to the original starting point and start again. Repeat as necessary.

You are not alone! I have seen plenty of world class Armorers get worked into a lather over a tight pin. If you feel yourself getting worked up..... walk away or give another Armorer a shot at it.

21Glock
03-26-2010, 21:36
New guns will sometimes give you fits! If your new gun is tight you might try removing the locking block pin (small top pin) and then the trigger housing pin (located in the grip) first. Once you have removed these pins the trigger pin (largest pin) will be easier to manipulate. Always push the trigger pin from left to right, this way you will only have one ring to push through.

I use a roll of duct tape as a Armorers bench. This way the frame can lay flat on the roll and the center of the roll will catch the pins. You want to push the pin out L to R. Move the slide stop forward and back so you can feel the (ring) grove in the trigger pin. When you think you have the slide stop centered try and push the trigger pin out. If the trigger pin binds:
You will know when the slide stop binds into the (ring) grove of the trigger pin because the slide stop will suddenly become (almost) impossible to move forward or back (not up and down).
Flip the frame over and push the pin back towards the other direction to relieve pressure on the slide stop. Turn the frame back over to the original starting point and start again. Repeat as necessary.

You are not alone! I have seen plenty of world class Armorers get worked into a lather over a tight pin. If you feel yourself getting worked up..... walk away or give another Armorer a shot at it.

Thanks, I'll be shooting with this new frame tomorrow. Maybe some .45 Supers going down my LWD stock length barrel will loosen things up some, too. I'll be ordering one of your 6" non-ported .45ACP barrels next week, as well.
I will be shooting some very carefully reloaded, well within specs. .45 Super rounds in my 21SF. I have a 22lb. ISMI recoil spring, along with a SS non captured guide rod and of course, new .45 Super brass to complete the set-up. I won't be shooting the Supers constantly, just occasionally. Not exactly a target round as the standard .45ACP is, but I'll be using it later this Fall for hunting.