Woods...What bullet do you use? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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Hogpauls
04-09-2010, 23:34
I'm picking up a G20SF tuesday for a woods gun. I load for a .40 and .45 currently, mostly plinking stuff. For the 10MM what size bullet do you use or feel is better for the woods. Lighter bullet, higher velocity and more ft lbs on target or heavier bullet and bigger hole?

alwaysshootin
04-10-2010, 03:45
I use a Lone Wolf 6" barrel, and shoot exclusively 200 grain hardcast bullets. It will do the job on anything!:cool:

ScEd
04-10-2010, 03:45
I'm picking up a G20SF tuesday for a woods gun. I load for a .40 and .45 currently, mostly plinking stuff. For the 10MM what size bullet do you use or feel is better for the woods. Lighter bullet, higher velocity and more ft lbs on target or heavier bullet and bigger hole?

180 grain JSP, accurate and put's a-lot of energy on target if you can put the rounds on target.

steve4102
04-10-2010, 04:09
I use the 180gr XTP. Pushed by Longshot at about 1300fps out od my 1911s.

Hoser
04-10-2010, 10:21
180 gn Montana Gold JHP.

Mountain10mm
04-15-2010, 12:39
Used to use 200gr. Hornady FMJs but they stopped making them. Other companies make 200gr. FMJ bullets, but all seem to be advertised as plinking or target shooting designs - probably a very thin jacket. I'll likely switch to 180 XTP's if I can get some reloading issues worked out.

If I use Starline brass (nickel or brass doesn't matter) the die deforms (flattens) the rim of the hollowpoint as it's being seated. I tried different seater dies and they help, but it seems that Starline brass is harder than the other brands and more effort is required to seat the bullet, which causes the deformation on the bullet tip. I could switch brass but I have LOTS of the Starline and shoot hot loads. It's comforting to know the brass is harder...now if only the bullets would seat. FYI, I have no problems with 180gr. FMJ's in Starline.

GioaJack
04-15-2010, 12:54
Used to use 200gr. Hornady FMJs but they stopped making them. Other companies make 200gr. FMJ bullets, but all seem to be advertised as plinking or target shooting designs - probably a very thin jacket. I'll likely switch to 180 XTP's if I can get some reloading issues worked out.

If I use Starline brass (nickel or brass doesn't matter) the die deforms (flattens) the rim of the hollowpoint as it's being seated. I tried different seater dies and they help, but it seems that Starline brass is harder than the other brands and more effort is required to seat the bullet, which causes the deformation on the bullet tip. I could switch brass but I have LOTS of the Starline and shoot hot loads. It's comforting to know the brass is harder...now if only the bullets would seat. FYI, I have no problems with 180gr. FMJ's in Starline.


Mountain...:

Simply reconfigure your seating stem with epoxy, (easy to redo when you change bullet designs), that will stop the deformation of the bullet nose without having to buy different seating stems.

Jack

Snapper2
04-15-2010, 20:49
Used to use 200gr. Hornady FMJs but they stopped making them. Other companies make 200gr. FMJ bullets, but all seem to be advertised as plinking or target shooting designs - probably a very thin jacket. I'll likely switch to 180 XTP's if I can get some reloading issues worked out.

If I use Starline brass (nickel or brass doesn't matter) the die deforms (flattens) the rim of the hollowpoint as it's being seated. I tried different seater dies and they help, but it seems that Starline brass is harder than the other brands and more effort is required to seat the bullet, which causes the deformation on the bullet tip. I could switch brass but I have LOTS of the Starline and shoot hot loads. It's comforting to know the brass is harder...now if only the bullets would seat. FYI, I have no problems with 180gr. FMJ's in Starline.

I have the same problem using winchester brass and 200gr xtp. I started using a lymans m expander die to solve this.

Mountain10mm
04-16-2010, 15:59
Mountain...:

Simply reconfigure your seating stem with epoxy, (easy to redo when you change bullet designs), that will stop the deformation of the bullet nose without having to buy different seating stems.

Jack

That's a great idea. How do I do this? I imagine I would have to use some sort of release agent similar to glass bedding an action otherwise the seating stem will be epoxied to the die. Is there a specific brand epoxy that works well. Thanks for the advice.

Alex

GioaJack
04-16-2010, 16:12
That's a great idea. How do I do this? I imagine I would have to use some sort of release agent similar to glass bedding an action otherwise the seating stem will be epoxied to the die. Is there a specific brand epoxy that works well. Thanks for the advice.

Alex


Mountain:

I'm just packing up to leave Phoenix, won't be back in Conifer until late tomorrow night. Send me a PM to remind me about your question and I'll send you back a PM on Sunday or you can just give me a call.

Jack

ctaggart
04-16-2010, 16:22
For the woods I carry fmj's in my Glock 23 because they're a hell of a lot cheaper to shoot at stumps and critters than hollow points. I'd say for your G20 carry with good 200gr hardcast rounds and carry a mag of fmj's for just foolin around. Make sure to switch out your barrel if you're shooting lead.

Slow and heavy usually ='s better penetration by the way.