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MoNsTeR
04-25-2010, 18:28
http://glocktalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=195947&stc=1&d=1272241369

Crazy!

I can't get the damn thing out. I've had squibs before, and never really had trouble knocking them out with a dowel or rod, but they've always been in 4" barrels. Brace the gun with one hand, hammer with the other, barrel supports the rod, no problem. But this bullet is actually protruding slightly from the muzzle, so every time the hammer hits the rod the end just skips off the bullet.

Any ideas?

ChadSin
04-25-2010, 18:30
Carefully drill it out? Then collapse the leftover ring? Maybe that would work if your good with a pencil grinder or small drill.

drew4691
04-25-2010, 18:30
CAREFULLY drill it out. CAREFULLY

sirgiles
04-25-2010, 18:31
time to take out that dremel!

hunt_ak
04-25-2010, 18:33
1) You drill it out, and mess up...bummer

2) Take it to a smith to drill it out, and he messes up...bummer (but he pays for it)

GioaJack
04-25-2010, 18:59
Just go down to Home Depot and get the appropriate sized 'hardwood' dowel... concave the end of it just a little on the end so it sits over the nose of the bullet.

Cut the dowel just an inch or two longer than the barrel so you don't snap it when you hammer the the round out.

Spray the bore down with oil from the forcing cone before you tap the bullet back through.

If it was my gun I wouldn't be putting a Dremel anywhere near the crown. Good luck.

Jack

IndyGunFreak
04-25-2010, 19:10
Just go down to Home Depot and get the appropriate sized 'hardwood' dowel... concave the end of it just a little on the end so it sits over the nose of the bullet.

Cut the dowel just an inch or two longer than the barrel so you don't snap it when you hammer the the round out.

Spray the bore down with oil from the forcing cone before you tap the bullet back through.

If it was my gun I wouldn't be putting a Dremel anywhere near the crown. Good luck.

Jack

:agree:

DEADLYACCURATE
04-25-2010, 19:20
How are you getting these multiple squibs

Hoser
04-25-2010, 19:23
I see a .350 OD brass rod in your future....

Travclem
04-25-2010, 19:24
Just go down to Home Depot and get the appropriate sized 'hardwood' dowel... concave the end of it just a little on the end so it sits over the nose of the bullet.

Cut the dowel just an inch or two longer than the barrel so you don't snap it when you hammer the the round out.

Spray the bore down with oil from the forcing cone before you tap the bullet back through.

If it was my gun I wouldn't be putting a Dremel anywhere near the crown. Good luck.

Jack
This^^
Power tools should never even go near a gun barrel.

Are these reloads or factory? if factory what brand/load?

MoNsTeR
04-25-2010, 19:30
How are you getting these multiple squibs

When I said I'd had them before, I meant "over the last 10 years"...

I think I'll be trying the concave-ended dowel.

oneuglygun
04-25-2010, 19:38
Cut dowel rod in three pieces, last one protruding 3/4 inch from rear of forceing cone, place 1/4 20 bolt with nut run all the way down against inside of frame on a piece of thin cardboard or rubber, place small socket over bolt and against nut on one end and against dowel on the other. Turn nut with small wrench to apply pressure against dowel. That will jack the bullet out the front. Been there-done that !!:supergrin:

j-glock22
04-25-2010, 19:48
musta been an Obama bullet.... dittos on not using power tools on barrel. Try a larger dowel and try to lube it up a bit on both sides of the barrel. You can always clean it later.
Good luck! That picture is a keeper

Snapper2
04-25-2010, 19:50
How about warming the barrel up a little first? A hot hair dryer?

DEADLYACCURATE
04-25-2010, 19:53
when i said i'd had them before, i meant "over the last 10 years"...



ahhhh

CaptToyota
04-25-2010, 20:01
Mobil-1 oil and a steel punch that just fits in the hollow point cavity bottom.


Drip some oil in from chamber end and get it nice and wet, then use steel punch that fits into the hollow point and tap the bullet back towards the cylinder,, the Mobil-1 synthetic oil should make it nice and slick...

Another idea might be load a mild blank and blow the bullet out ?

srd
04-25-2010, 20:02
Thats the hard way to slug a barrel.

sdelam
04-25-2010, 20:42
I would cut the barrel long ways so you dont mess up the bullet. HP's are expensive.






Sorry, drinking and posting again.

dudel
04-25-2010, 21:07
Another idea might be load a mild blank and blow the bullet out ?


Very bad idea. Don't try it.

Also, as the wiser ones have said, keep the power tools away from the crown.

Use a short dowel, slightly smaller than the bore, sharpened to a point. Put the point into the hollow point cavity and start tapping with a non metal hammer (rawhide or deadblow). You may have to use several dowels, each cut longer to finish the job. A short dowel will be more controlable; and a non metal hammer will not damage the crown should the projectile start back and the hammer make contact with the crown (that would be bad with a metal hammer).

I'd also find some way to avoid putting pressure on the handle. Run a thicker piece of wood through the space left by the cylinder, support it and use it to take the force (grip is going to absorb too much of the effort and you are stressing the frame. You might be able to get this done with a pipe clamp or C-clamp. Shield the forcing cone with some wood, and use screw pressure to eas the projectile back. I helped someone with this technique many years ago.

If you are uncomfortable with this, you might want to visit a gunsmith. You have many chances to damage the gun.

How many of these have you had over the past 10 years? The first is a learning experience; the second means the lesson wasn't learned. Something is going on with the process that needs to be addressed.

Had a second round followed this one, it could have been a whole different story for you and for others near by at the range.

DaveCharlie09
04-25-2010, 21:17
One thing for sure, when you get it out without damaging the gun, you will be very proud of yourself.

MoNsTeR
04-25-2010, 21:38
The hollow-tipped dowel idea got it started back down the bore, but the hollow point cut up the dowels real bad and they ended up splintering. I tried using my squib rod again but it's so long, I had a hard time keeping it straight. So I made this jig out of a scrap piece of plywood:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Nmcd5isgTHs/S9UI5pe5wII/AAAAAAAAAIg/FK9fem_VvOA/s400/2010-04-25%2021.04.48.jpg
It got the job done:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Nmcd5isgTHs/S9UIwvPMKGI/AAAAAAAAAIc/eIWYDLOelGQ/s400/2010-04-25%2021.02.46.jpg

P.S.: It might not be a good idea to use IMR Trail Boss with jacketed bullets, even though they now say it's OK.

Colorado4Wheel
04-26-2010, 07:04
Glad you got it out safely. Good job, nice rig.

How do you like that LCR?

MoNsTeR
04-26-2010, 07:21
It's a tad on the bulky side for pocket carry compared to a .380, but it works. I like being able to just grab it and go without putting on a belt and thinking about what to wear over it. Punishing to shoot with factory loads, hence the mucking about with Trail Boss. I think I'll try Solo 1000 or Clays next.

Brucev
04-26-2010, 07:29
Very glad you got the stuck bullet out. If your going to load light, use a lead bullet. They are much easier to remove if (and when) they fail to exit the bore (i.e., get "stuck"). :whistling:

Bren
04-26-2010, 07:49
Personally, I'd tap or press it out from the rear, using a multi-part tool made up of two short lengths of brass rod almost as big as the bore and someting flat across the back to push with.

Colorado4Wheel
04-26-2010, 08:05
It's a tad on the bulky side for pocket carry compared to a .380, but it works. I like being able to just grab it and go without putting on a belt and thinking about what to wear over it. Punishing to shoot with factory loads, hence the mucking about with Trail Boss. I think I'll try Solo 1000 or Clays next.

The LCP is my every day carry. That does seem big in comparision, but in some ways it's a better gun/caliber as well. Tough call.

WiskyT
04-26-2010, 13:01
Very glad you got the stuck bullet out. If your going to load light, use a lead bullet. They are much easier to remove if (and when) they fail to exit the bore (i.e., get "stuck"). :whistling:

I keep tellin' them, but they don't listen. They ignore me at best, or declare me a heretic.

BTW, I would have melted the lead core out of the bullet and just peeled the jacket out. A soldering iron would have done nicely.

Gunnut 45/454
04-26-2010, 13:56
The 38 Sp is known for doing that! Thats why alot of data is one charge of a type of powder! No min/Max ! Especially with jacketd bullets! I always run my 38 Sp loads at the max load when using jacketed bullets!:supergrin: