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zeno nine
05-07-2010, 17:03
I've been reloading for about six months for my son. Am ready to buy the dies for my Glock 22. I was on another site recently and several people said that reloading for older ( 2nd gen is what I have) 40's wasn't a good idea as the cartridge isn't fully supported and can lead to a KABOOM. Would like some feedback from Glock owners who have reloaded the 40 cal.

D. Manley
05-07-2010, 18:48
I've been reloading for about six months for my son. Am ready to buy the dies for my Glock 22. I was on another site recently and several people said that reloading for older ( 2nd gen is what I have) 40's wasn't a good idea as the cartridge isn't fully supported and can lead to a KABOOM. Would like some feedback from Glock owners who have reloaded the 40 cal.

And most of these internet experts have never owned a Glock, shot a Glock and surely have'nt reloaded for a Glock. For the most part, they are simply parroting what they've "heard". The lack of chamber support deal has assumed a life all it's own thanks to the internet and even some well intentioned (but misinformed) souls within reloading circles offer caveats that I don't believe are grounded in reality. Truth is, you'll find Glock's chamber support to be about the same as most other, similar, combat pistols. Current production models in fact, have excellent chamber support. The misinformation is exacerbated by the fact that Glock does have generous internal chamber dimensions however, this creates no problem whatsoever for the reloader and if it even shortens brass life, I can't tell it.

You'll be just fine if you (1) work up loads slowly and meticulously, (2) stay within acceptable loading guidelines and (3) practice safe reloading as you should for any other gun...regardless, of brand. If you choose to shoot jacketed or plated rounds, the factory barrel will do fine. If you happen to choose to shoot lead, my choice would be to purchase an after-market barrel with conventional rifling. I wonder how these "experts" explain the countless thousands of reloaded .40 rounds shot through Glocks by competitors and non-competitiors alike on a weekly basis. With safe pressure loads I don't think those reloaded rounds will care much if they're ran through a Glock and I doubt the Glock will know the difference.

AZson
05-07-2010, 20:47
If been reloading for my Glocks for about a year, except the G17 and have had no problems shooting lead Bear Creek .40s and .45s

CWPINST
05-07-2010, 21:03
Unique is a good powder for the 40. Do NOT use Clays powder in the 40 or 9mm. Clays is a very "peaky" powder that can cause pressures to skyrocket with very small changes in components. Unique is MUCH more forgiving and normally has very good accuracy coupled with small ES.

SNH Glocks
05-07-2010, 21:14
I have been reloading for my .40 cal Glocks and other brands for about 15 years without any problems.

ChrisJn
05-07-2010, 21:50
And most of these internet experts have never owned a Glock, shot a Glock and surely have'nt reloaded for a Glock. For the most part, they are simply parroting what they've "heard". The lack of chamber support deal has assumed a life all it's own thanks to the internet and even some well intentioned (but misinformed) souls within reloading circles offer caveats that I don't believe are grounded in reality. Truth is, you'll find Glock's chamber support to be about the same as most other, similar, combat pistols. Current production models in fact, have excellent chamber support. The misinformation is exacerbated by the fact that Glock does have generous internal chamber dimensions however, this creates no problem whatsoever for the reloader and if it even shortens brass life, I can't tell it.

You'll be just fine if you (1) work up loads slowly and meticulously, (2) stay within acceptable loading guidelines and (3) practice safe reloading as you should for any other gun...regardless, of brand. If you choose to shoot jacketed or plated rounds, the factory barrel will do fine. If you happen to choose to shoot lead, my choice would be to purchase an after-market barrel with conventional rifling. I wonder how these "experts" explain the countless thousands of reloaded .40 rounds shot through Glocks by competitors and non-competitiors alike on a weekly basis. With safe pressure loads I don't think those reloaded rounds will care much if they're ran through a Glock and I doubt the Glock will know the difference.
Exactly what D Manley says. Additionally, if you go the aftermarket barrel route give due consideration to what dies you buy. I was using RCBS for a long time but when I got a Lone Wolf barrel found my rounds would not fit. Changing to Lee dies solved the problem.

vtducrider
05-07-2010, 23:40
I reload 40S&W for my Gen3 G23, and my buddy's Gen1 G22. The Gen1 does create bulges in the brass. I use Dillon Die on a Dillon 550B. Over time, the bulged brass will eventually develop a crease at the bottom (near the headstamp). It feels that this happens after about 5 reloads. I don't have a good way to keep track of number of usage for my brass. Maybe someone can chime in here. Once the crease appears, the rounds will fail case gauge check. They won't go all the way in.

The crease isn't very obvious. Can't tell when the brass are dirty, and can't tell after they are tumbled. They will show up clearly after resizing. The other day, I got 32 case gauge failures out of 150 rounds. Does anyone know an alternative to using a bullet puller to get rid of them? Anyway, my work around is to put all the brass through the sizing die first, and then check with the case gauge before reloading them. Seems to work fine, but it does add an extra step.

Good luck with reloading for Gen2 40S&W. It is a blast...

Sofa King
05-07-2010, 23:58
I think most of these Kabooms that Dean Speir and others refer to are the result of loading the .40 on the hot side. Definitely a bad idea in this caliber. For every gun failure there are hundreds if not thousands of people (including me) who reload that have no issues. Just keep your loads out of the red zone. Your fingers will thank you.

nytehawk
05-07-2010, 23:59
I've been reloading for a few months, both 9mm and .40S&W, approximately 1500 rounds total so far, using a Lee Classic Turret press and Lee carbide dies. I shoot the 9's with my Glock 19, and the .40's with my Walther P99c, Springfield XD40, and now my Glock 27. The G27 is brand new and I've only shot about 70 rounds through it to date (all reloads) and no problems so far.

The G27 definitely bulges the cases more than the Springfield and Walther do, however. (The .40 load I'm shooting is 4.6 grains of TiteGroup with a 165 gr plated bullet. See my post at http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180841)

As a note, I've chosen not to shoot reloads with my Glock 23 --just a decision of personal preference since I can shoot the G19 instead.

AZson
05-08-2010, 08:57
I've been reloading for a few months, both 9mm and .40S&W, approximately 1500 rounds total so far, using a Lee Classic Turret press and Lee carbide dies. I shoot the 9's with my Glock 19, and the .40's with my Walther P99c, Springfield XD40, and now my Glock 27. The G27 is brand new and I've only shot about 70 rounds through it to date (all reloads) and no problems so far.

The G27 definitely bulges the cases more than the Springfield and Walther do, however. (The .40 load I'm shooting is 4.6 grains of TiteGroup with a 165 gr plated bullet. See my post at http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180841)

As a note, I've chosen not to shoot reloads with my Glock 23 --just a decision of personal preference since I can shoot the G19 instead.

The fun part of reloads is the fact you can down-load the powder and make it more enjoyable to shoot.
The trick is to find a load that's enjoyable to shoot but really accurate with any particular bullet you like or get the cheapest, may it be your own molded ones or store bought.

When I get home from the range I put a fine coat of Kano Kroil oil just in my barrel, try not to get any in the chamber if it's your carry gun, it will react with your brass and when your ready to clean it thoroughly this oil will loosen any lead and make it easier to remove any lead and when your done cleaning put another fine coat of it. A good hard lead or moly coat bullet should leave very little lead.
The next time you shoot, whether you had time to clean your gun or not, any lead or copper left in the barrel no matter how minute will be expelled out.

D. Manley
05-08-2010, 11:02
I think most of these Kabooms that Dean Speir and others refer to are the result of loading the .40 on the hot side. Definitely a bad idea in this caliber. For every gun failure there are hundreds if not thousands of people (including me) who reload that have no issues. Just keep your loads out of the red zone. Your fingers will thank you.

After a lot of investigation into the reported KB's of early .40's used in LE it was found that the primary culprit was bullet setback from repeated chambering of rounds. Once the practice was stopped, so did the problems. IMHO, assuring ample case tension on bullets is an absolute requirement in the .40 caliber round regardless of the firearm brand. In my personal shooting & reloading perspective, I see no need to "load hot". I strive for accuracy 1st and try to achieve it with moderate loads...easy on me, easy on the guns. I might add that I've ran thousands of rounds through my G-35 and have never once seen a bulged case.

hoffy
05-08-2010, 11:29
What most said above, don't run max loads and you should be fine. I have shot tens of thousands of reloads through Glocks, mainly 9mm and 10mm.
I had a load that drives tacks with my HK 40 USP compact and when I tried them in my G-35 I bought later they almost keyholed they were so inaccurate. Used titegroup/plated bullets. Switched to a slow powder(Longshot) and shot great, but not in HK, sigh, going to try my old standby unique, especially since they cleaned it up. Sad thing is the 35 shoots one ragged hole with the Longshot. I just need to make a bucket full for the Glock and paint it red, Titegroup works well in all the half dozen + guns I have tried it in.
Redding and Lee both make push through dies to eliminate the bulge. I use the barrel as my case gauge, I am tight(but own 6 presses) and if you have multiple handguns, use the tightest barrel(my XDs in 357 SIG) are much tighter than my SIG 239. Most others are pretty close.

DWARREN123
05-08-2010, 14:34
I reload for the 40 S&W for 3 Glocks. All are fairly new so the chamber issue has not popped up.
I have not had any problems shooting reloads thru my Glocks. I use Hodgdon's Longshot powder for medium to hot loads with plated, lead and jacketed bullets in weights from 155gr. 165gr, 175gr and 180gr. I use the factory barrel and get no lead build up even after a 100 round run.
I use a single stage press and inspect each round during each step and especially after cleaning and before anything else.
I use a Lee Anniversary Kit with Lee dies and am happy with the setup.
Some bullet brands I use are Magnus, Berry, SnS Casting, Hornady, Remington, Speer. I like R-P brass best and any brand small pistol primer.
Check out Hodgdon's load data web site for load info.
Have fun and be safe!

FLSlim
05-08-2010, 14:51
Seems like the others have summed it up. I've loaded for years, but only the 40 for a short time. I have had to use a Redding push through on sized brass a few times, but no big deal. Now breaking in a LW barrel, just because I wanted one. My loads have been lite to moderate with Power Pistol with both JHP and plated bullets. Be careful (this applies to any reloading) and print off D. Manley's comments for reference.

Twisted Steel
05-08-2010, 21:33
I didn't read all the replies:

It's a specific powder that's been linked to kb's. IIRC, AA#5. You can read all about it at The Gun Zone. http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/gindex2.html

You may consider a third party barrel for shooting reloads, and swap back to the factory for carry.

I am not a Glock-O-Boob, but it seems like Glock has quietly redesigned their chambers. I have a G22 and G23 and the bulge in the brass after firing is not what I remember it to be, or what I thought it was. I may be mistaken, but I thought I remembered reading that Glock had quietly redesigned their chamber, and it wasn't as "unsupported" as it originally was. I may be mistaken, so you might want to google it.

But a third party barrel for reloads is not a bad idea.

D. Manley
05-08-2010, 22:43
I didn't read all the replies:

It's a specific powder that's been linked to kb's. IIRC, AA#5. You can read all about it at The Gun Zone. http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/gindex2.html

You may consider a third party barrel for shooting reloads, and swap back to the factory for carry.

I am not a Glock-O-Boob, but it seems like Glock has quietly redesigned their chambers. I have a G22 and G23 and the bulge in the brass after firing is not what I remember it to be, or what I thought it was. I may be mistaken, but I thought I remembered reading that Glock had quietly redesigned their chamber, and it wasn't as "unsupported" as it originally was. I may be mistaken, so you might want to google it.

But a third party barrel for reloads is not a bad idea.

I tend to avoid getting into the back and forth generated by Dean Spier (The Gun Zone) and his opinions. I agree with him some, disagree some and I think he provides a useful service but, so does the National Enquirer. That said, I do take issue with some of his views particularly, his mantra to never, ever, use reloads in a Glock. I find this absurd as if, there's some magic in factory loaded ammunition that makes it safer to use. For heaven's sake, unless I'm mistaken, Glock's sponsored competitive shooting team (Team Glock) uses reloaded ammunition. As to the user manual warnings, do not virtually all manufacturers issue similar statements? Glock (or any manufacturer) cannot be expected to warranty a product using ammunition over which no one (in this case SAAMI) has no controls. Ole "Joe Bob" crams a case full of Bullseye, touches it off and BLAM!...no problem, send the pieces to Glock with a picture of the missing digits, they should fix it up free, right?

And yes, the chamber dimensions of *some* Glock models has evolved over the years. I might add that Glock's frames, extractors, locking blocks and other components have also evolved. Its not as if change in a firearm is somehow evidence of a flawed design conversely, if things did'nt change we'd be in a pretty stagnant sport. As to the "guppied" .40 brass shown on Spier's site as evidence of "unsupported" chambers, I guess I'm either lucky or, no one that shoots in my circles is so unfortunate. I have certainly never had such a piece of brass come from one of my pistols and have never encountered one...not a single one...from the thousands of pieces of range brass I've retrieved over the years most, fired from Glocks. I'm not saying it never happened or even, that it could not happen. I am saying its neither common or anything to prohibit someone from reloading simply because the weapon of choice happens to have "Glock" engraved on the slide. A safe load is a safe load whether it came from my press or one of the factory mills. FWIW, the increased safety of "factory ammo" is more suspect than you might think as well...I still have pictures of one of the major manufacturer's factory loads that mercifully locked up my guns before anything worse occured.

It has always been true and always will..."it's the responsibility of the reloader to assure the quality of his product". It ain't rocket science...if you do it right, its fine...Glock or otherwise. If you do it wrong, it's unsafe...Glock or otherwise. Although some do shoot lead in Glock barrels I think it would be unwise for this to be done in universal fashion. I believe it can be done safely by accomplished shooters/reloaders but in general, probably a bad idea. Unless shooting plated or jacketed bullets, the minimal cost of a conventional barrel would be worth the freedom of worry and extra cautionary maintenance to me. Bottom line, enjoy your gun and if the Spier admonissions bother you, swap the barrel if it makes you feel better but don't let things like this prohibit you from the rewarding hobby of reloading.

Bonedoc
01-04-2011, 09:13
I tend to avoid getting into the back and forth generated by Dean Spier (The Gun Zone) and his opinions. I agree with him some, disagree some and I think he provides a useful service but, so does the National Enquirer. That said, I do take issue with some of his views particularly, his mantra to never, ever, use reloads in a Glock. I find this absurd as if, there's...snip... no one (in this case SAAMI) has no controls. Ole "Joe Bob" crams a case full of Bullseye, touches it off and BLAM!...no problem, send the pieces to Glock with a picture of the missing digits, they should fix it up free, right?

And yes, the chamber dimensions of *some* Glock models has evolved over the years. I might add that Glock's frames, extractors, locking blocks and other components have also evolved. Its not as if change in a firearm is somehow evidence of a flawed design conversely, if things did'nt ...snip...saying its neither common or anything to prohibit someone from reloading simply because the weapon of choice happens to have "Glock" engraved on the slide. A safe load is a safe load whether it came from my press or one of the factory mills. FWIW, the increased safety of "factory ammo" is more suspect than you might think as well...I still have pictures of one of the major manufacturer's factory loads that mercifully locked up my guns before anything worse occured.

It has always been true and always will..."it's the responsibility of the reloader to assure the quality of his product". It ain't rocket science...if you do it right, its fine...Glock or otherwise. If you...snip...me. Bottom line, enjoy your gun and if the Spier admonissions bother you, swap the barrel if it makes you feel better but don't let things like this prohibit you from the rewarding hobby of reloading.

This was/is one of the most succinct and clearly stated 'posts' I've ever read (and I've read a lot) and "accurate" to boot. I've shot "reloaded" .40s for some 20 years thru a Gen 1 Mod G22 and never ever had the slightest issue. I would say that the pistol, maintained well, has over 75K through the frame. I replaced the barrel at 55K with a Stormlake and wasn't happy so bought a Glock replacement barrel and use that currently. I bought this G22 in '91 and it, along with other Glocks, have been nearly flawless.

I reload 'soft' or middle of the road. I never use lead in my .40 reloads (only jacketed or plated). I clean the weapon generally after each outing. I inspect all cases early and often in the reloading process AND I submit them to a case gauge when completed. Just a drop in, check and go... added step. BTW, I've heard that Larry Willis is going to be offering a 'new' item that will size the case "all the way" down and (virtually?) eliminate the bulge issue on reloads. Not sure when it will be available. Manley's right, "It ain't rocket science!"

fredj338
01-04-2011, 09:18
I think most of these Kabooms that Dean Speir and others refer to are the result of loading the .40 on the hot side. Definitely a bad idea in this caliber. For every gun failure there are hundreds if not thousands of people (including me) who reload that have no issues. Just keep your loads out of the red zone. Your fingers will thank you.

That & using uberfast powders & heavy bullets. Any bullet setback or error in OAL can really push pressures beyond safe. Stick to med to medium slow powders for lower pressures & stay off the top end loads. The 40 loads like any other pistol round, just not as forgiving foolish reloading practices.

shotgunred
01-04-2011, 10:54
I pre ordered my G23 and have one of the first 500. When my G23 first came out there were problems. Mostly loading AA#5 to hot. We were also loading them with lead semi wad cutters. All around a bad combination

I load low and medium velocity rounds and haven't had a problem in a long time. No KB's, No glock bulge's, No banana peel barrels. Just plain old cartridges that get the job done. Down right boring.

Heck I even used that 20 year old gun and my own reloads in IDPA last year.

greenlion
04-22-2011, 11:33
Unique is a good powder for the 40. Do NOT use Clays powder in the 40 or 9mm. Clays is a very "peaky" powder that can cause pressures to skyrocket with very small changes in components. Unique is MUCH more forgiving and normally has very good accuracy coupled with small ES.

Hodgdon Universal powder is very similar to Unique, only it meters better and is MUCH cleaner.

cole
04-22-2011, 11:49
Hodgdon Universal powder is very similar to Unique, only it meters better and is MUCH cleaner.

I'm runnin' the new (reformulated) Unique under plated in 9mm. I don't know what the fuss is all about.

OP: Just load mid-range loads with a mid-burn powder, check your brass often and you'll be fine.

toshbar
04-22-2011, 11:52
I just started reloading about 3 months ago.

Lee carbide 4 die set from Factory Sales in my Lee Turret press with the lee auto disk powder dump that dumps as the case is flared.

I started at 3.5 grains of Bullseye and worked up to 4.0-4.2 grains with a 180 gr plated truncated cone projectile for competition. Does great out of my G23.

cowboy1964
04-22-2011, 13:38
The old Unique powder is the one that had the rep for being dirty. The new stuff is fine. My 45 loads with it actually seem cleaner than any commercial ammo I've used. Usually the muzzle end of my 45 gets filthy very quickly but not so with Unique.

greenlion
04-22-2011, 13:48
I'm runnin' the new (reformulated) Unique under plated in 9mm. I don't know what the fuss is all about.

OP: Just load mid-range loads with a mid-burn powder, check your brass often and you'll be fine.

I was talking about the new reformulated Unique too. Universal is still much cleaner and meters better. Have you used both powders?

cole
04-22-2011, 19:35
I was talking about the new reformulated Unique too. Universal is still much cleaner and meters better. Have you used both powders?

Not in the exact same loads so I have no apples-to-apples comparison. I've run pounds of (plain) Clays, TG, BE & S1000 in .45acp lead and the new Unique was, as best as I can recall, as clean, or cleaner than all but maybe the light Clays loads. For 9mm, my experience with new Unique has been pretty much the same. Unique has actually been cleaner with .45acp lead than TG for me because it burns cooler and does not melt as much lube. BE was just sooty and it runs hotter as well. S1000 was pretty decent, but not as common and less load data. Now, I pretty much stick mostly with BE & Unique, and a little TG. Works for me and tons of load data. YMMV.

cxm357
04-22-2011, 23:30
The .40 S&W cartridge experienced problems, with both reloaded and new ammunition early in the life of the round... so bad Hodgdon's manuals in the 1990s carried a pretty strong warning advising against reloading for it.

I can tell you that the kB! did exist... I have experienced two and seen two others... one of mine was with factory ammo (Federal) and one a hand load (Fiocchi brass.) I also saw two others, one in a S&W Sigma and one in a Glock. My kB!s were in a BHP and a Para Ordenance P16-40. Of these kB!s, only one did significant damage to the gun, and that one was not a total loss situation. The Browning had no damage beyond an extractor blown off (easy fix.) The Para had the magazine blown out and the mag catch had to be replaced and the magazine was unusable... again not major damage. The SIGMA suffered damage similar to the Para Ord. The Glock lost it's extractor, magazine release and mag (IIRC it was a gen 2 gun.) None of these were exactly catastrophic, but I didn't enjoy the two I had :wow:.

As a result of these experiences, I sold off my .40s and quit reloading for it for about 12-13 years.

Since those days, we have learned more about reloading the .40 S&W. A year or so ago I wound up owning some .40s by-products of some other trades. When I got those guns (SIGs and S&W M&Ps)I converted them to .357 SIG a cartridge I like a lot. Then I wound up with a couple of Glock 23s again a by-products of some trades which I decided to try loading once again.

I resolved to do everything I could to avoid any more kB!s. To that end I did the following:

1. I load nothing much past mid range loads
2. I also load no bullets heavier than 165gr. (all my problems were 180gr.)
3. Brass with serious bulges are discarded
4. The 40 ammo is loaded with Unique powder and nothing faster
5. Brass with the FC 9x brass is discarded (x being the second number) Brass with just FC seems to work ok.
6. Each round goes through a case gage to eliminate any bulged cases
7. I watch closely for set back bullets.

The net result of this is no problems in more than 2,000 rounds in the last year or so. That said I'm still very careful with the .40 S&W for reloading. I apply all my quality control processes very carefully and thoroughly

So my conclusion is this, it is possible to safely load for the .40 S&W, but it does require more attention to detail than most other cartridges AND it is less forgiving.

FWIW

Chuck

minkis18
04-24-2011, 20:18
great thread guys. I want to get into reloading and have been looking at the Lee 3 or 4 hole turret press but I do have one question. My gen 2 creates some pretty large dents on the mouths of the cases upon ejection, I think it's throwing the cases into the bottom of the ejection port. Would this cause any issues or would a resizing die be usable? also, is the 'buldge buster' die needed?

fredj338
04-24-2011, 23:09
1. I load nothing much past mid range loads
2. I also load no bullets heavier than 165gr. (all my problems were 180gr.)
3. Brass with serious bulges are discarded
4. The 40 ammo is loaded with Unique powder and nothing faster
5. Brass with the FC 9x brass is discarded (x being the second number) Brass with just FC seems to work ok.
6. Each round goes through a case gage to eliminate any bulged cases
7. I watch closely for set back bullets.

So my conclusion is this, it is possible to safely load for the .40 S&W, but it does require more attention to detail than most other cartridges AND it is less forgiving.

FWIW

Chuck
SOund advice. I think many of the issues w/ handloaders is pushing heavy for caliber bullets using uberfast powders, a KB waiting to happen in the high pressure/small volumn 40. Other than that, I don;t think it is any harder to load for than any other service round. The 357sig is certainly more finicky w/ sim pressrue issues. Use good brass, stay off the top end loads w/ any bullet wt & you'll be fine.

shotgunred
04-25-2011, 04:58
1. I load nothing much past mid range loads
This solves 90% of the problems.
2. I also load no bullets heavier than 165gr. (all my problems were 180gr.)
I load well in excess of 10 K 180 a year.
3. Brass with serious bulges are discarded
SMART
4. The 40 ammo is loaded with Unique powder and nothing faster
I run a lot of fast powders just not high velocity/ pressure ones. AA #5 was involved in a lot of those KB in the early years. I still will not use it.
5. Brass with the FC 9x brass is discarded (x being the second number) Brass with just FC seems to work ok.
Old federal was thin.
6. Each round goes through a case gage to eliminate any bulged cases
I just use a sizing die.
7. I watch closely for set back bullets.
Everyone should do that

The net result of this is no problems in more than 2,000 rounds in the last year or so. That said I'm still very careful with the .40 S&W for reloading. I apply all my quality control processes very carefully and thoroughly

So my conclusion is this, it is possible to safely load for the .40 S&W, but it does require more attention to detail than most other cartridges AND it is less forgiving.

FWIW

Chuck
My KB was with brand new American Eagle ammo.
I was an early adapter to the 40 and went through all the issues in the early years. I have shot well over 50 K 180 reloads with no problems. The most important thing about the 40 is DO NOT GET INTO ULTRA HIGH PRESSURES! do that and you are fine.

AZson
04-26-2011, 08:23
I always use a Lee factory die on mine and I had my sizing/deprimer die machined off until the bottom taper was gone. It sizes the case completely all the down to just above the lip. This keeps the Glock bulge away.

GIockGuy24
04-26-2011, 08:50
It seems like the chambers in the Glock barrels changed sometime after the generation three came out. The early 40 S&W barrels do leave the fired cases a bit ugly looking. The later barrels can usually be identified by not having the feed ramp polished or a black feed ramp instead of the earlier silver feed ramp.

A bigger problem was the early 40 S&W cartridge cases. They were thinner than current production. Federal made some cases that would blow out in Glocks and other 40 S&W pistols. Federal fixed the problem by making cases thicker than SAAMI specs. The other American ammunition makers soon followed with thicker cases of their own. The others weren't having the blow out problems but the original specs for 40 S&W were made for maximum cases capacity, not realizing the pistol makers were going to make barrel chambers on the larger side of the specs for reliable feeding. Combining the thin cases with large cases and soft Federal brass really pushed things past the limits.

With current production American-made cases and dies that resize cases close to the rim, such as Lee carbide dies, the older Glock barrels aren't too bad. If the fired cases look ugly, like the early fired cases they may be stretched too far to resize. The newer cases should be alright but may not last as long as they would in a tighter chamber. The Lee carbide die and the Lee factory Crimp die, which has a carbide ring, seem to work the best for 40 S&W. A newer barrel will help a lot. The newer factory Glock barrels are designed to use a magazine follower number 5 or newer and the feed ramp is shorter and steeper.

g29guy
04-26-2011, 14:01
If you want factory or just above factory loads use stock barrel. I bought a KKM barrel for my 10 mm just to shoot lead and to save on brass with higher loads plus its an inch longer than stock for accuracy and speed( hunting and plinking). I swap out and use the stock barrel for carry.
I recomend a Redding GRX push through die for 10mm/.40 cal if you shoot in a stock barrel. The Redding has oem tolerances and will bring the brass back to stock size. My rcbs die will work but sometimes you get feed issues if the brass has bulged a bit. The pass through die re-sizes the whole case back to original outside diameter.

Hope this helps:supergrin: