What am I doing wrong? Newb? [Archive] - Glock Talk

PDA

View Full Version : What am I doing wrong? Newb?


Hogpauls
05-14-2010, 22:22
I'm getting a Glock bulge before I even shoot the cartridge as seen in 1st pic. One on left is a 165 grn Berrys and one on right is 200 grn WFNGC DT. Am I not putting enough bell on the case? These are AFTER being run through the Lee carbide Sizer/Crimper. I'm using a LW barrel and both fall in just fine, the Berrys 165 falls out on its own but the DT 200grn needs just a slight tug with the fingernails to free it. Using a dummy round with the DT 200 grn, the gun cycled it just fine. I have shot the Berrys 165 and they work great no hiccups at all.
2nd pic is of a belled case next to one that is not belled. (Sorry for the crappy pics). The case mouth on the belled one reads at .429", is this enough or do I need more? I don't know if this is relevant but both are at a COAL of 1.250". I appreciate your help.
197139

197140

Njanear
05-15-2010, 07:12
I'm getting a Glock bulge before I even shoot the cartridge as seen in 1st pic.

You do know that 'Glock bulge' refers to the bulging of the case near the base AFTER it has been fired in the Glock (not up at the throat of the case), right? :whistling:

IMHO, it appears that you are good to go on these loads.

Hogpauls
05-15-2010, 08:40
Yep, I knew where the placement of Glock bulges occur. Just tried a lame attempt to inject a little humor.:upeyes:

Taterhead
05-15-2010, 13:07
If you are referring to the ring at the base of the bullet, then you are fine.

As far as the size of the bell goes, the least amount that will let bullets seat is my rule of thumb. I use slight finger pressure to place a bullet in a belled case mouth. If it stays in place when I turn it upside down, that is usually sufficient bell.

These two projectiles call for a bit more, in my experience. The WFNGC is a tad wider and is long. The plating on plated bullets is a bit fragile so I tend to give them plenty of room as well.

I think you are good to go. I may keep working with the crimp a bit on the 200 grainer to see if you can loosen them up a bit. Probably not an issue. Only a bit of range time can let you know for sure.

For both the 200 gr WFNGC and plated projectiles, I seat to 1.26". However, the WFNGC may feed better in your LW barrel at 1.25". That meplat is wide, and some folks have reported feeding issues in tighter aftermarket chambers.

_The_Shadow
05-15-2010, 14:16
HogPauls, Welcome and hello!

Some of what I see is the bullet's diameter streching the case walls back out after sizing.

I must ask if you are seating the bullets to proper depth without allowing the crimp to take place? Why might you ask? This allows bullets to enter straighter. If near the end of the seating process with the bullet still moving down into the case and the crimp is starting to apply then you get some buckling of the case, or the plating can get damaged or in alloy bullets the bullet can shear off material.

So how do we fix this to make better ammunition? First is to seat the bullet in one step, then taper crimp to finish in a seperate step. I usually raise my seater/crimp die up with a 1/8" washer under the locking ring, which is enough to not have the crimp applied. I seat all bullets to proper depth, then re-readjust the die by removing the washer, raise the seating stem up, then taper crimp to finish. The difference is truely amazing and feed & function is 100%.

Good luck, don't get discouraged!

Hogpauls
05-15-2010, 16:25
Thanks Guys. Shadow, I'm seating and crimping in different steps, seating with the RCBS die and crimping with the Lee FCD in the last step to avoid the collapse of the case.
Tater, I tried it at 1.26" and the round wouldn't chamber or go into full battery. Brang it down to 1.25" went into full battery everytime it didn't get hung up on the chamber. Tightened up the crimp to a half turn I believe it's .421 and bing batta boom no problems what so ever chambers everytime. Just needed a little confirmation that it's gtg. Being fairly new to reloading the pucker factor is still pretty high trying out new loads.

_The_Shadow
05-15-2010, 17:11
HogPauls, It sounds like your getting a grip on the situation.

I only use the RCBS die set(1990 before 40S&W) for mine. I actually picked up a second Seater/Crimp die which I have set for 40S&W use. Before that I used spacer rings to adjust the die hight, I still do for the expander operation. These rings are very handy for using my 9mm expander for the 9x25 Dillon rounds and others as well.

Good luck!

hill billy
05-17-2010, 10:48
Thanks Guys. Shadow, I'm seating and crimping in different steps, seating with the RCBS die and crimping with the Lee FCD in the last step to avoid the collapse of the case.
Tater, I tried it at 1.26" and the round wouldn't chamber or go into full battery. Brang it down to 1.25" went into full battery everytime it didn't get hung up on the chamber. Tightened up the crimp to a half turn I believe it's .421 and bing batta boom no problems what so ever chambers everytime. Just needed a little confirmation that it's gtg. Being fairly new to reloading the pucker factor is still pretty high trying out new loads.

They are GTG. I get this a lot when using new brass but not with using once or more fired brass. I also have to back off my crimp when using new brass. I have chalked it up to new brass being softer. Shoot it.

Hogpauls
05-17-2010, 20:56
I went out and shot 'em today and they all went bang. No problems at all, other than the cronograph not working, hopefully it is a low battery problem. Kinda ruined that outing, was looking for some chrony results to verify the loads I'm working up to.
This nice little pile-O-brass I left with, seemed to lift my spirits a bit.
197328

gator378
05-19-2010, 21:37
HogPauls, Welcome and hello!

Some of what I see is the bullet's diameter streching the case walls back out after sizing.

I must ask if you are seating the bullets to proper depth without allowing the crimp to take place? Why might you ask? This allows bullets to enter straighter. If near the end of the seating process with the bullet still moving down into the case and the crimp is starting to apply then you get some buckling of the case, or the plating can get damaged or in alloy bullets the bullet can shear off material.

So how do we fix this to make better ammunition? First is to seat the bullet in one step, then taper crimp to finish in a seperate step. I usually raise my seater/crimp die up with a 1/8" washer under the locking ring, which is enough to not have the crimp applied. I seat all bullets to proper depth, then re-readjust the die by removing the washer, raise the seating stem up, then taper crimp to finish. The difference is truely amazing and feed & function is 100%.

Good luck, don't get discouraged!

OR get a separate taper crimp die. I find a separate crimp die easier but always seat then crimp. For me easier to use two steps.