View Full Version : Question for JR please...
Jim in Illinois
I heard that match grade barrels are not quite as reliable as a stock GLOCK barrel because of the tighter tolerances. I wanted to put a Lone Wolf barrel on my Glock M 21SF but do the tighter tolerances of these barrels cause more jams and FTFs. Would you trust your life to a match grade barrel?
The majority of the FTF issues are caused by reloads. These are home rolled rounds. You tell me what the resolve should be ... Here is a typical statement: The barrel fires factory ammunition no problem but my reloads jam about 50% of the time. What should I do?
My advice is to modify the reload, what would you say? Here is our standard answer:
I suspect you have a reloading problem. This is easy to verify. Remove the barrel from the slide. Drop a factory round into the chamber. If the factory round fits slightly lower than the top of the barrel hood you are looking good to go. If the factory round does not sit slightly below the top of the barrel hood you will need to return the barrel to LWD and we will fix it right away.
The problem is most likely caused by an expanded or swelled case head that has not been fully resized. Ammunition that is fired from an original Glock factory barrel produces (very) expanded case heads. This expansion occurs because of the large chamber used in Glock factory barrels. Many reloaders think they are full length resizing their brass but this simply is not true. The sizer die has a beveled area located at the entrance of the die mouth. This beveled area helps guide the straight walled cartridge into the die. The case rim is held with a shell holder. The area of the cartridge that is between this beveled area and the shell holder never gets resized completely.
If you drop your reload into a LWD barrel and the case head (rim) sits above the barrel hood this is a good indication your brass is bulged and not resized correctly. Here is 2 ways to fix this problem:
1 Run your loads through a case gauge before shooting. Many reloaders currently use Dillon or Midway stainless case gauges however these manufactures are known to have liberal tolerances. If your Dillon or Midway case gauge works with the LWD chamber you are good to go. If not, we recommend you use the EGW case gauge. The EGW is known to run tighter tolerances. Once the reload is fired from the LWD barrel you should not have a feed problem again.
2 You can return your barrel to Lone Wolf and include 4 or 5 dummy rounds of your reloads (no powder or primer) and we will open up the chamber to accommodate your loaded round.
*If you are reloading 40 S&W or 10mm we recommend you use the Redding GRX push through die to remove 100% of the case budge.
Jim in Illinois
Thank you JR!
I thought their might have been a problem with factory loads also. Right now I'm shooting only factory loads to accumulate brass.
I will be reloading the .45acp in the future and will need a new die set. I have always used RCBS dies in the past. Can you recommend carbide sizing dies that might have a smaller bevel? Or are they all pretty much the same? Lastly, If I run into this problem what do you charge to re-chamber this new barrel to my dummy reloads?
Thanks a lot for your advice... Jim
If the brass has been shot out of a LWD barrel you will never have a swelled case problem. It really does not matter what die you use in this case.
The problem is caused by using brass that has been fired out of a Glock factory barrel. This is when you will want to use a small based resizing die
Jim in Illinois
Thank you JR. That tells me all I need to know. Then I'll order a Lone Wolf barrel ASAP. Hey, thanks a lot for helping a new GLOCK owner. Jim...
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