G20 fails to reset trigger after firing [Archive] - Glock Talk


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07-25-2010, 16:20
I have a brand new Glock 20. The first time I fired it (after field stripping, cleaning and lubing), on the second magazine I fired I had a problem. It fired fine, extracted the casing, cycled the next round, but the trigger did not reset -- it remained fully back even after I released my finger. The trigger stayed all the way back until I racked the slide.

In shooting it some more, it happened two more times. In those cases, I just pulled the slide back 1/4" or so, which reset the trigger (like you can do with a Glock when dry firing).

I sent it off to Glock, they returned it saying it was inspected, test fired and no problem was found.

I was shooting double tap ammo (can't remember what grain). Not sure if type of ammo would make a difference.

Any ideas? It's hard to trust a gun that only works some of the time.

07-25-2010, 20:26
I know you do not want to her this but I pretty much agree with the factory findings. I would first verify the parts are all in working order. I would then test fire the gun. Once I have performed these two tasks I could only blame the malfunction on the user.
I highly recommend you shoot a few rounds with a knowledgeable Glock shooter and have them verify your shooting style is not "somehow" causing the issue.

07-25-2010, 21:38
I know you do not want to her this but I pretty much agree with the factory findings. I would first verify the parts are all in working order. I would then test fire the gun. Once I have performed these two tasks I could only blame the malfunction on the user.
I highly recommend you shoot a few rounds with a knowledgeable Glock shooter and have them verify your shooting style is not "somehow" causing the issue.

I live in the boonies and the guys I shoot with shoot 1911's. I have thousands of rounds through my G19 and have never had it happen with the G19.

Any thoughts as to what I could be doing technique wise that would cause the trigger to not reset -- to remain in the full back position after I release the trigger?

I'm lost in terms of how the slide can cycle properly, ejecting the spent case and chamber the new round, but not reset the trigger.

07-25-2010, 21:45
I have no doubt you are an experienced shooter. It makes me wonder why the failure especially if you are currently proficient with a G19?
All I can say is I would have done EXACTLY the same the factory did. Verify parts & then verify at the range. Unfortunately I have returned hundreds of customer guns the same way.
I am more than happy to take a look at it if you have the time to ship it. BTW: That’s why I recommend you get a local (competitive) shooter to run a few rounds & then watch you run a few.

07-25-2010, 21:57
Don't get me wrong, I think the idea was good, just not easy. I don't belong to any ranges, and have been thinking about starting IDPA, but haven't yet (all the ranges/matches are 90+ minutes away). It probably won't happen for a month or two, but late summer or fall I hope to start IDPA and might find some guys that could check it out.

The clarification I was asking in terms of the technique, was just if there was anything you could think of that would cause a failure to reset. I understand how limp wristing and stuff can cause stove pipes or poor ejection patterns, I just would have thought trigger set was purely mechanical.

Is a failure to reset a common technique problem on Glocks (like stovepipes and ejection pattern problems)? Do you think the double tap ammo could play any role?

07-25-2010, 22:16
Ok, here is a test:
Make sure the gun is unloaded. Cycle the slide. Pull the trigger, hear it click and keep it to the rear. Now reach up and cycle the slide again. When the slide comes back into full battery let the trigger go forward. If you do not hear it "click" (reset) there is a mechanical problem.

07-25-2010, 22:23
I'll play around with that tomorrow.

By the way, I neglected to say "Thank You" for taking the time to respond not only to my question, but so many others that have been posted in this GATE forum.

07-26-2010, 16:49
My pleasure! I basically do the same thing on the phone all day anyway.
I am glad to learn the answers are of use to many GT'ers and appreciate all the support you guys have for this part of the board.

07-26-2010, 18:02
I'm trying to get this G20 lined out so that I can use the Lone Wolf 9x25 Dillon sitting in my range bag. :)

I spent about 5 minutes racking, firing, racking with trigger depressed and then releasing. It reset every time.

When this problem happened on the range, I shot about 5 or 6 mags I believe, and it happened three times.

When I did the initial field strip and clean, there was a rust colored substance on the slide, on the side where the little silver button is. When I talked to Glock prior to sending it in, they said that was likely break in grease that has copper in it.

Do you think it's possible that some of this rust/copper grease or whatever it was could have been fouling something? I'm really not sure what causes a failure to reset.

Another thing I don't think I mentioned was that on the second two failure to resets we looked and confirmed that the slide appeared to be fully forward. It wasn't a case where a case jammed and the gun didn't go into battery.

Any other thoughts other than seeing if I can get it to happen in front of an experienced Glock shooter?

07-26-2010, 19:21
Considering the information I have available ..... The only thing controlled in this situation is the gun. It was inspected and verified in working order. You just performed a simple test and it passed again. I don’t know how you did it but I am sure it was you that caused the problem?

07-26-2010, 19:34
Ok, thanks again for the advice. I'll take it out and shoot it some more. My buddy bought a non-SF G20 at the same time. If it happens to me again, I'll shoot his and have him shoot mine and see if the problem follows the shooter or the gun.

07-26-2010, 19:47
I really am sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I would love to put the blame on the gun.
Like I said before, I am more than happy to give it a shot whenever you want to ship it to me. If I don’t find something wrong there is no charge! If I do find something wrong you owe me for the parts.

07-26-2010, 22:17
I've only had it out once, the first time I fired it. It came back from Glock a few days ago. If next time I go out I am able to replicate the problem, I'll take you up on the offer and send it to you.

07-28-2010, 21:38
I double dog dare ya!

07-28-2010, 21:53
I double dog dare ya!

Hey, is that a poodle crack!!!

Since you responded again, I have another couple quick questions for you. In another thread you were talking about problems with rounds fired in Glocks getting a bulge and not fitting in the Lone Wolf conversion barrels. I assume based on other stuff I read that this also applies when using brass fired in Glocks and reloading them for other pistols, like say XDm's or M&P's. Correct?

I know for .40 you recommended the Redding G-RX resizer. Is it the same problem with 9mm's fired from Glocks then used in other guns like a Kahr PM9 or M&P?

What about .45's?

Last question, is removing the bulge cause the case to become weaker, in terms of more likely to fail, or does it just shorten the case life?

I'm just getting back into reloading after buying ammo for the last 10 years and this bulge thing is new to me.

07-29-2010, 20:15
The brass will form itself to the chamber when it is fired. The bigger the chamber the bigger the case swell.
The feed ramp of the barrel cuts away from the chamber support. Fired brass also flows into this cut away area and forms case bulge.

Once the case is swelled & bulged it will not fit into a tighter chamber unless it has been resized. Not all full length resizing dies bring the fired brass back to "new size" (unfired factory brass).

This swelled/bulge case issue is relevant with all brass and all chambers. (I remind you some barrels create more swelling/bulge that others. Case in point: Glock OEM vs. LWD.) The good news is, once a cartridge is fired out of a barrel, if it is used in the same barrel, there will not be an issue (97%+)

Once you have used a great die like the Redding G-RX resize the bulge is not an issue. This die removes the bulge, it does not make the brass any safer. The bulge created a thin area HOWEVER the increased chamber support of a LWD barrel will add more support to the weakened area of the brass and be far less likely to allow a KB.