View Full Version : Question for aippi about his 870Ps
The pics that I have seen of your parkerized work looks much smoother than the parkerized finish on my factory 870Ps.
So I ask, taking into account that parkerized finishes don't photograph well, is it the media that you use to prep your guns less course than the media they use at the factory or has your guns been soaked in oil and the park has just soaked up that oil to the point of looking more smooth? Or is there something else I'm missing? (time in the parkerizing solution, type of solution, etc.)
Thanks for your response!
You are correct. I soak them down with oil as they are freash out of the tank and thristy. Mine are more course then the factory parkerizing as use heavy zinc and the Zap pre blackner. Remington uses Manganese. If what to see how course they really are look at the refinishing page and check out the close up after photos of those weapons. Zinc is very pourous and thus holds a lot of oil. Since I build heavy duty and heavy use weapons I prefer that finish. Another reason I use it is that different steel parts react differently to parkerizing. For example: I did some 1911's. We ended up with one shade on the frame, another on the slide and yet another on the control parts. With the Zap and the Zinc, you get all black. the Zap will not work with Manganese.
I do not parkerize the 870P models only the AI&P Tactical models. The P models I build from all new factory parts and they come factory parkerized. However, I get a lot of P receivers that are so bad I do refinish them as I would be ashamed to send the weapon out like that. It was real bad duing the gun rush of last year but Remington is sending some decent receivers to me lately.
I also have a couple of secrets on aging the park, preping the weapon and some more tricks that, well, I just will not give up to anyone as this is my livelyhood. I also use a very course media and I change it out after about every six receivers. I do this even though I have a 4" cabinet that holds about 40 lbs of media because a good park job starts with the blasting. You need a course finish so there is more surface for the park to work on. I know this cost me more but I am building custom weapons and the finish is critical to protecting this weapon. Also, guys like the look of a weapon so it is important to them.
A couple of Detectives in Ft. Lauderdale FL. who are partners each bought the AI&P Tactical II a couple years ago and recently a Road Sergeant with that department saw those weapon on the range where the two came to re-qualify. He said they looked brand new and was amazed as they kept them is the trunk and with rust being such an issue in South Florida he was sold on this finish and sent his in for a rebuild and refinishing.
I sure hope this does not start a this -v- that on shotgun finishes. I use what I know works and what has worked for over 100 years. Don't want to start no mess about the different parkerizing finishes out there. I tried them all when I started this business and I found the Brownells Zinc and Brownells Zap pre-blackner to be the easiest for me to work with and gives me the best finish. Anyone who looks at the before and after pictures of those to old Wingmasters on the refinishing page of my website will understand why I use those two products.
Also plan to offer parkerizing classes one day. The only hesitation is letting some of my secrets out. So with that said all the guys can now post in how easy it is and how anyone can do it.
Thanks for the reply. You certainly should be able to build the way you want and it seems that you have a fairly strong following.
It's always good to get some perspective on these items and I appreciate your transparency (to the degree you can). When mine are ready for a refresh, I'll be considering you for the job above most others!
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