Dillon Lubrication. [Archive] - Glock Talk

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Colorado4Wheel
09-03-2010, 14:49
I thought I understood the Dillon Lubrication needs and how to do it. Even chastisied Jack for abusing his poor 550. My machine is not that old (3 years maybe?) and it's loaded maybe 60K round give or take a little so that a decent amount but not excessive by any means. Anyway. the factory line is grease for the pivots, engine oil for the ram. Well my machine didn't have the "bounce" in the handle it used to when you pushed and released from the prime stroke with no case in the shellplate. So I took it apart and saw some galling on the aluminum link on only the left side. I have been religious about using my pump needle luber for the holes. It's sometimes hard to get the grease to go in but I work the handle while I do it and I thought I got grease in the things. Apparently not. Anyway. The Dillon rep over a Brian Enos forums said Kroil (a thin penentrating lube) is fine if you want to use something thinner. You just need to use it more often. Other oils I am sure would work as well as long as the migrate around the bearing. I have loosened the nuts a little on the bottom links and now it's a lot easier to get the grease in those areas. Upper ones are still a little harder. I may try some Kroil but for now when I push on the end of the grease gun I get grease out the side of my bearing so it is going in now. Just thought I would share. New 550's have different bearing shafts that make it easier for the grease to work it's way around the bearings and also have grease fittings. Not sure if they changed the upper at all. Never seen a picture of one.

AZBru88
09-03-2010, 15:08
Thanks for sharing the info! Was just over at B.E. forum reading on the Dillon threads earlier today. I had missed that, thanks...Bru

unclebob
09-03-2010, 15:51
I wonder if they put zerk fittings on the ends of the Link arms on the 650 press. I emailed Dillon but I have not heard anything back so far.
About two years ago I emailed Gary and asked him about putting a grease fitting on the end of the Link arm. At the time he was not all that receptive of the idea.

n2extrm
09-03-2010, 15:58
I wonder if they put zerk fittings on the ends of the Link arms on the 650 press. I emailed Dillon but I have not heard anything back so far.
About two years ago I emailed Gary and asked him about putting a grease fitting on the end of the Link arm. At the time he was not all that receptive of the idea.


The one I just bought has them in the end of the shaft. You can kinda see them here. Getting hit with rain from Erl and I am too lazzy to go take a better one!

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/n2extrm/bench2/100_1296.jpg

unclebob
09-03-2010, 16:05
Do you know how many holes there are in the shaft? One in the center or 3 one in the center and one over each Link Arm?

frankmako
09-03-2010, 16:06
i got a 550 in 1982. i use motor oil on the parts that need it. took it apart three years ago to check things out and everything look new. so for me motor oil works. i did put some grease on the pins when i put it back togeather, but the grease was push out when things went back in place. picked up a used 550b, took it apart and it was in the same shape as my 550. i use motor oil on it all so. the older 550 do not have holes.

n2extrm
09-03-2010, 16:15
Do you know how many holes there are in the shaft? One in the center or 3 one in the center and one over each Link Arm?

I will go out in a bit and get a better picture for you and see if it has holes. I an thinking it did not, but I just wanted to turn out 45, so I didn't look all that close. :embarassed:

unclebob
09-03-2010, 16:38
I will go out in a bit and get a better picture for you and see if it has holes. I an thinking it did not, but I just wanted to turn out 45, so I didn't look all that close. :embarassed:

Iím talking about the holes that are on the Link arm pin itself not on the arms or the crank. The holes that the grease come out of when you add grease too the grease fitting. Also wondering if the hole down the center is the same size as the zerk fitting or did they make it smaller after the threads for the zerk fitting. That was the concern we had. We thought that if was the same size that it might weaken the arm pins.
Just wish Dillon would hurry up and email me back.

n2extrm
09-03-2010, 16:59
I only see 1 hole, grease is oozing out between the arms and links like the other (550) press. Didn't take the zerk out I just saw your post now. I would think a pretty small hole would work?:dunno:

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/n2extrm/bench2/100_1302.jpg



http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/n2extrm/bench2/100_1301.jpg

n2extrm
09-03-2010, 17:03
Steve,

I have been using air tool grease since you gave me the idea when you fixed jacks. It is supposed to handle pressure well, and flows well at low temps. They have a synthetic version of it from Ingersoll for the ir2131 gun and similar titanium/composite guns. The stuff is pricey but it dose work well on the air tools. Maybe that would flow better and give you the pressure resistance and cling you want? I would think even a 0-20 or similar synthetic motor oil might work too?

Colorado4Wheel
09-03-2010, 17:05
Cool, but that upper one is a one piece on the 650 I would assume and on the 550 they are two seperate parts. My count would be 4 needed on a 550.

rockabillyrider
09-03-2010, 17:25
I broke the shell plate bolt on my Square Deal today. Really stinks due to the fact that I only have a few hundred rounds loaded and the "Mrs." announced that she wants to do some shooting this weekend. :whistling:
Maybe a few drops of oil would have saved me?

unclebob
09-03-2010, 17:32
Cool, but that upper one is a one piece on the 650 I would assume and on the 550 they are two seperate parts. My count would be 4 needed on a 550.


Two on the upper link arms and two on the crank. On those two you need too take off some off of the ram. The zerk fittings will hit. At least that is what I had too do on the 550. Also do not use the press in zerk fitting. They well pop out. Drill and tap.
For lube I have been using Mobil One with some Lucas oil or STP treatment added. About 4 too 1. on the ram. For the other parts that call for grease I have been using grease that you get from a GM dealer. Before that I used Valvoline DuraBlend. I think the GM grease makes the press work a little bit slicker. A lot of the grease out there I found is way too thick. I tried about 4 or 5 before I settled on these two.
Trust me you do not want too use anything else besides the oil and grease. I did and ended up in having too getting a complete lower end of the press, arms, pins, and crank.

unclebob
09-03-2010, 17:44
Buy the way n2extrm. Thanks for the help and pictures.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Colorado4Wheel
09-03-2010, 17:45
So you installed zerks on a 550?

I need some clarification on the locations becuase I am confused.

We have two links on the 550. Each link would need a zerk on each end. That would be 4 total just for the links.

We also have the bigger pivot like link the handle attachs too and that also attach's to the bottom of the ram. One zerk would work on the center shaft and the part that attach's to the bottom of the ram probably gets enough lube from the stuff coming off the ram. Plus I don't know where you could put one. I have never heard of that pin freezing up.

unclebob
09-03-2010, 18:06
Since they have the new Link Arm pin that has the zerk fitting on the end. That well that should take care of the bottom of the two link arms and crank.
Two for the top of the Link arms. If you already have the holes just drill the hole bigger and tap. Also make sure you clean the backside of the hole.
I also put two zerks on the crank where it attaches too the ram. You are probably right that it gets enough lube from the oil dripping down. So for you, you would only have too install the two on the top link arms and get the bottom pin.

Rico567
09-03-2010, 18:11
Over on Brian Enos' site, someone has posted a downloadable file, complete with illustrations, of where to lube everything (which the Dillon manual does NOT do). I have read a lot, and in threads other than this, about the lack of zerk fittings, etc., etc., and I've done the main pivot points on my 650 several times, and it's just not that difficult if you've got a wrench or two. Take off the two left-hand nuts, and slide the two axles out with the right hand swivel arm and nuts in place. The pivot on the bottom of the ram only requires an allen wrench to back out the setscrew, and the axle just pushes out. Clean off the old grease, repack the pivots and reassemble.

unclebob
09-03-2010, 18:25
Over on Brian Enos' site, someone has posted a downloadable file, complete with illustrations, of where to lube everything (which the Dillon manual does NOT do). I have read a lot, and in threads other than this, about the lack of zerk fittings, etc., etc., and I've done the main pivot points on my 650 several times, and it's just not that difficult if you've got a wrench or two. Take off the two left-hand nuts, and slide the two axles out with the right hand swivel arm and nuts in place. The pivot on the bottom of the ram only requires an allen wrench to back out the setscrew, and the axle just pushes out. Clean off the old grease, repack the pivots and reassemble.

I know I have done it several times. Most of the time I do it is when we are waiting for a hurricane too hit with nothing else too do. The Zerk fittings just keeps it lubed a little bit more often. This is just something I like too do is take what ever and try and make it better than what the manufacturer came out with. Like on the 650 so far I have done about 9 modifications. Just too make things work a little better. At least for me.

Colorado4Wheel
09-03-2010, 18:45
Biggest benifit to a zerk is that the zerk has a spring loaded ball bearing that keeps the hole from seeping grease. It also allows the bearing to be under a little pressure so you can put the bearing under a little pressure and work the pivot and it works into the bearing a little better. The new lower link from Dillon has channels cut into it so that the lube has a path to move to each link and bearing.

dudel
09-03-2010, 18:50
Biggest benifit to a zerk is that the zerk has a spring loaded ball bearing that keeps the hole from seeping grease. It also allows the bearing to be under a little pressure so you can put the bearing under a little pressure and work the pivot and it works into the bearing a little better. The new lower link from Dillon has channels cut into it so that the lube has a path to move to each link and bearing.

I have those parts on my 550b. I bet you could do the upgrade cheap.

I would have preferred some zerks on the links (top and bottom); however with the lifetime warranty, I'm not too concerned. When I lubed it (grease needle on a greas gun) through the small holes on the links, a bit of the grease came back out after reloading a few rounds. None came out as I worked the ram up and down to distribute the grease.

WiskyT
09-05-2010, 09:59
I just drizzle a little CLP or whatever I can reach without getting out of my chair when my Pro1000 starts to squeek. The lubrication points are whatever I think is squeeking. Those Dillons sound like an old steam engine in terms of maintenance. I can just picture Steve with an enigineer hat and an oil can running around the thing.

http://www.hcpconsulting.ca/lds/Image53.jpg