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wrx04
10-09-2010, 19:19
Alright, i just started looking tonight at brass/powder/pimers etc... so i can start reloading as soon as my press arrives. Holy crap! $24.99 for 100 brass cases:wow: I can buy 100 winchester bullets at walmart for $32.

What gives? I havent even looked at the prices of primers/bullets/powder yet. I thought reloading was supposed to be CHEAPER than buying ammo:shocked:

PastorDan
10-09-2010, 19:22
It is cheaper in theory. Brass is reusable so you won't have to buy that every time. The start up cost is there but the price per round will come down.

The other problem that eliminates the savings is all the new bullet/powder options that you find to work with. That is my problem now.

GioaJack
10-09-2010, 19:25
What are you buying, 20 mm cases? I have ex-wives who shop better than you!

If you're loading for pistol just look around for once fired cases... there are a million places that deal in them.


Jack

wrx04
10-09-2010, 19:26
It is cheaper in theory. Brass is reusable so you won't have to buy that every time. The start up cost is there but the price per round will come down.

The other problem that eliminates the savings is all the new bullet/powder options that you find to work with. That is my problem now.

Yeah, im looking at that too. how did you decide what to start with? I dont know what bullets or powder to stock up on initially.

I might just buy some wwb at walmart and shoot them to get the brass instead of buying separately.

DWARREN123
10-09-2010, 19:29
Best advice I can give is see if a gun store or range has once fired brass for sale. Go to bullet and powder company web sites to look for reloading info. Don't go crazy and buy all sorts of powders, primers and bullets. Start with one good load, learn it then go from there.
Have fun and be safe! :supergrin:

wrx04
10-09-2010, 19:29
What are you buying, 20 mm cases? I have ex-wives who shop better than you!

If you're loading for pistol just look around for once fired cases... there are a million places that deal in them.


Jack

First and only place i looked was midwayusa.com. Im looking for 45ACP.....where do i find them? Hook a brother up.

wrx04
10-09-2010, 19:31
Best advice I can give is see if a gun store or range has once fired brass for sale. Go to bullet and powder company web sites to look for reloading info. Don't go crazy and buy all sorts of powders, primers and bullets. Start with one good load, learn it then go from there.
Have fun and be safe! :supergrin:

Yeah, i was gonna start with one load and thats it. One brand powder, primer, bullet and thats it. Maybe i should shoot up the 400 rounds of wwb i bought, and just scavenge some cases off the ground at the range.

GioaJack
10-09-2010, 19:31
Follow DWARREN'S excellent advice... Google 'once fired brass', you won't be able to swing a dead cat without hitting a company that sells them.


Jack

wrx04
10-09-2010, 19:33
Follow DWARREN'S excellent advice... Google 'once fired brass', you won't be able to swing a dead cat without hitting a company that sells them.


Jack

thank you, sir.

Alycon
10-09-2010, 19:38
Yeah, im looking at that too. how did you decide what to start with? I dont know what bullets or powder to stock up on initially.

I might just buy some wwb at walmart and shoot them to get the brass instead of buying separately.

That's exactly what I did. I bought 500 live rounds at a gun show to get started. I used Berry's plated bullets and Bullseye and Unique powders. The combo works great for me. It used to be you could save a lot by reloading pistol ammo, but not so any more. The only time the savings are worth the trouble now days is for large caliber rifle rounds.

Good luck

ron59
10-09-2010, 19:39
Were you not saving your brass BEFORE you even got your reloader? :tongueout:

I probably had 3000 pieces of 9mm on hand before I even got my 550B. Now I have slightly more than a 5gal bucket full.

I have a 5gal bucket almost full of .40, and another two-thirds full of .45ACP. Several coffee cans of .38/.357. A double-handful of .380.

Yes, I'm a brass whore. :rofl:

Check any ranges near you, especially indoor ones. They usually sell brass they sweep up.

I've yet to buy a piece of "new" brass, and probably never will unless I start loading long-distance rifle stuff.

32dgrz
10-09-2010, 19:39
Look what I found :wow:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167346

Locally try these guys http://www.bluegrassrange.com/index1.php


Great folks. I shoot there when I'm In LOOOOVIL

n2extrm
10-09-2010, 19:56
Look what I found :wow:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167346



I bought brass from this guy, stuff was pretty good. I haven't gone through it all yet as I bought a few thousand rounds. So far all good stuff, good shape and he shipped it right out.

wrx04
10-09-2010, 20:06
Look what I found :wow:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167346

Locally try these guys http://www.bluegrassrange.com/index1.php


Great folks. I shoot there when I'm In LOOOOVIL

Thats the only indoor place i shoot at. Here's a question for ya, is it wrong to pick up the brass laying on the floor (or in the buckets in the corner) at an indoor range. Is that technically range property or is it free game?

KB2MBC
10-09-2010, 20:07
Check out Gunbroker.com I bought 2000 once-fired .45acp for something like $80

wrx04
10-09-2010, 20:11
Oh, and i was just about to buy some bullet trays/primers/powder online, and they charge a "hazmat fee" on top of regular shipping. Total was $108 for the stuff but $190 after shipping. F that. I guess you cant buy that crap online?

wrx04
10-09-2010, 20:12
Check out Gunbroker.com I bought 2000 once-fired .45acp for something like $80

Nice. Thanks.

VN350X10
10-09-2010, 20:16
You're in luck....45ACP brass is like flycrap, and it just about doesn't wear out. I've got some that the headstamp is ALMOST readable, but it still functions properly in a 1911.
NOW, if you find yourself getting into a 10MM, buy new brass from Starline. Every place that I've found once-fired 10MM is listed as from a "law enforcement" range. Problem is, only agency that still uses 10MM in any real quantity is the F.B.I. and they run it thru H&K MP-10's. Like any other H&K auto or semi-auto rifle, they have the fluted chamber & the brass is JUNK. I've had some split on my first SIZING, never mind firing !
Just a heads up, with .45 you'll lose the brass before you wear it out.

Load Safe !

uncle albert

n2extrm
10-09-2010, 20:21
Buy a pound of powder and 1K primers at your local shop. Once you know you like what you are going to use use buy it in bulk online. Primers you are going to have to just put a bunch on order and wait it out. I usually order 5K of each size at one time. I buy 4# or 8# jugs of powder. Some times multiple 4 or 8# jugs. I try to get a good sized order with friends so we can split up the fees.

wrx04
10-09-2010, 20:41
Buy a pound of powder and 1K primers at your local shop. Once you know you like what you are going to use use buy it in bulk online. Primers you are going to have to just put a bunch on order and wait it out. I usually order 5K of each size at one time. I buy 4# or 8# jugs of powder. Some times multiple 4 or 8# jugs. I try to get a good sized order with friends so we can split up the fees.

Thats what i thought. Thanks.

Colorado4Wheel
10-09-2010, 20:44
Starline has 500# 45acp for about 78.

You need to avoid purchasing from anyplace that sells any reloading component in small quantities. That will make reloading far to expensive and not worth the trouble from a cost perspective.

32dgrz
10-09-2010, 20:47
Thats the only indoor place i shoot at. Here's a question for ya, is it wrong to pick up the brass laying on the floor (or in the buckets in the corner) at an indoor range. Is that technically range property or is it free game?
Can't tell you that. I shot Blazers when I was there. Around here you can pick up anything on the ground. The buckets are the ranges so no touch

themighty9mm
10-09-2010, 21:18
Definatly go with once fired. You can often find it even on the forum want ads section. Like others have said once you get that cost out of the way its completly reusable. I'm not so sure I even see the point in buying new brass
Big question, why havnt you been saving yours?

sig2009
10-09-2010, 21:19
I know. I have scrounged 23 5 gal buckets of it! Guess I will never have to buy!

wrx04
10-09-2010, 21:38
Definatly go with once fired. You can often find it even on the forum want ads section. Like others have said once you get that cost out of the way its completly reusable. I'm not so sure I even see the point in buying new brass
Big question, why havnt you been saving yours?

I never even thought about reloading until about 2 months ago. I've only been shooting for about 2 years.

On top of that, i'm planning on reloading in .45acp. And are you ready for this....i have never fired a .45 in my life.....even to this day. I just bought my first 1911 (STI Trojan) last week, and the damn thing had to go back to the factory already cause the barrel bushing was too tight and woundnt come off. I hope i like the caliber and 1911 platform for that matter, but i think i will.

I have kept some of my 9mm brass, so maybe in the future i will play with the G19 too, but initially the STI will get almost all the trigger time

JMiller
10-09-2010, 21:48
http://ammobrasstrader.com/forums/categories.php

hoffy
10-09-2010, 22:15
I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload pistol/revolver loads, I just wish I didn't love shooting the polygonal guns so much(on an HK kick now, but will swing back to Glock in a few months) and have to buy plated bullets. I have enough guns I don't feel the need to buy a barrel. I did see a bag of Win 357 SIG new cases for 37$/100, I nearly passed out. I have enough, but that is what I have the fewest of, even have lots of 10mm comparatively. This was a big gun shop and they only had Hornady 1$ a round personal defense in 357 SIG, had sold a case of UMC, the guy thought in a few days.

45, you have no worries, I too have them that still hold a bullet w/o setback that the head stamp is unreadable, or nearly. If you really want to save dough, start casting, and if you have to shoot a Glock, get a barrel. It takes longer nowdays to recoup expenses than when I started decades ago, but you will be able to shoot a lot. I like reloading almost as much as shooting.

Boxerglocker
10-09-2010, 22:23
I've in the past when purchase from Blunt Object.

http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1267376&highlight=brass

He get once fired stuff front a range he works at culls and cleans it rushed walnut.

It's good stuff as described. I do tumble it further for about an hour in corncob and Nu-Finish, cause I like it shiny.

shotgunred
10-09-2010, 22:36
How many times do I have to do this?

Buy it cheap and stack it deep.

http://www.seminolebrassandbullet.com/
http://leobrass.com/catalog/shopping_cart.php

fredj338
10-09-2010, 22:39
That's exactly what I did. I bought 500 live rounds at a gun show to get started. I used Berry's plated bullets and Bullseye and Unique powders. The combo works great for me. It used to be you could save a lot by reloading pistol ammo, but not so any more. The only time the savings are worth the trouble now days is for large caliber rifle rounds.

Good luck
That is just not true. You can reload ANY pistol round for at least 1/2 the cost of cheap factory. I can load 9mm, 115grFMJ for right about $10/100. How can 50% savings not be worth it?:dunno:
Yeah, im looking at that too. how did you decide what to start with? I dont know what bullets or powder to stock up on initially.
Check your reloading manual. IMO, you want a medium burn rate powder (check a burn rate chart out) to start with, Unique, WSF, Universal, PowerPistol, VV350, all work well in 9mm & give you a bit of margin pressure wise. Buy 1#, load 1000rds then if you like it, you can buy 4# or 8# jugs to save money. Same w/ primers, buy at least 1000 standard, brand isn't important, but I shy away from Wolf.
As the guys noted, buying once fired brass is the way to go. It cost about the same to buy cheap WWB & shoot it, keep the brass, vs buying new brass & reloading it.

shotgunred
10-09-2010, 22:48
Thats the only indoor place i shoot at. Here's a question for ya, is it wrong to pick up the brass laying on the floor (or in the buckets in the corner) at an indoor range. Is that technically range property or is it free game?

That depends on the range. If the owner has left and it is on the ground then its mine. In the bucket it could go either way.

LASTRESORT20
10-09-2010, 23:00
Many options..."once fired & new Brass"...and other good stuff...
http://www.blue-star-inc.com/catalog/npbrass.htm

shotgunred
10-09-2010, 23:07
Many options..."once fired & new Brass"...and other good stuff...
http://www.blue-star-inc.com/catalog/npbrass.htm

Why pay $170 per K for new brass when you can buy once fired for $20 a K.
The once fired will still last for a dozen or more times.


(your source new 9mm vs my source for used)

LASTRESORT20
10-09-2010, 23:14
Why pay $170 per K for new brass when you can buy once fired for $20 a K.
The once fired will still last for a dozen or more times.


(your source new 9mm vs my source for used)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Originally Posted by LASTRESORT20 http://glocktalk.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16118911#post16118911)
Many options..."once fired & new Brass"...and other good stuff.."

Yup many Options......

.

dudel
10-10-2010, 05:00
I generally start with store bought ammo to start off with. It gives me something to chrono as a baseline, also tests the gun for operation and a baseline accuracy.

That becomes my once fired brass. Later on, when I stockpile I look for once fired brass from a few places I trust. Many times, once fired range brass, has been fired several times. You don't know if it was a factory load, or some hot shot load left by a reloader who couldn't recover the brass forward of the line.

Once fired brass needs to be gone over carefully. Clean it (so that any defects show up better). Check for pressure rings near the base, loose primer pockets, split necks, bad dings, dents, heavy corrosion or deep scratches. Be prepared to toss those (or load them as dummy rounds to set a OAL you can use next time you need to set up the dies).

If loading +P or +P+ loads (not recommended for the beginner), then new brass is your only really safe choice. When using new brass, it's advisable to debur the inside case mouth and check the flashhole for "chad" (flash holes don't always get punched out cleanly).

ColdShot
10-10-2010, 07:32
Once fired $25 -$35 per M
Yankee fella on here sells it and I buy from him

I tumble and load .....I started loading this year
and have went though 5000+ loads
Maybe I found a handful of bad brass in thousands
........just do a quick visual...

I avoid the nickel plated cases,junk.........

Bello
10-10-2010, 07:56
Once fired $25 -$35 per M
Yankee fella on here sells it and I buy from him

I tumble and load .....I started loading this year
and have went though 5000+ loads
Maybe I found a handful of bad brass in thousands
........just do a quick visual...

I avoid the nickel plated cases,junk.........


hmm. really starline nickel is the best you can pick up in my opinion

fredj338
10-10-2010, 10:59
hmm. really starline nickel is the best you can pick up in my opinion
SOme people don't care for nickel brass. It is not my fav, seems to get fewer loads & can actually be a bit harder to resize (at least w/ SPeer 357sig). Then some like not having to tumble brass clean. I don't buy it, but if it's laying there, I'll pick it up for reloading.:supergrin:

Rico567
10-10-2010, 11:08
I have some .357 that were boughten.....35 years ago. I finally wore out the original 500 .45 ACP I bought, after the headstamps got peened off. I own 500 .45 Colt I bought, and another 50 I actually found on the ground at a range one day, but the rest are pickups- the buckets of .45 ACP, 40 S&W, die WŁndernine, .38 Spl. Most of my .223 brass was just given to me......got a batch of a few thousand .40 out on a tarp on the garage floor right now, drying out after a bath in Lemishine.

If a true reloader isn't a brass whore, then he's probably one of those bench rest types....

DrugRunR
10-10-2010, 11:16
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

Not knocking glocktalk, but if your into reloading you might look at a more dedicated forum for that.

I must have 10K 38sp now, 6K 45acp, 1k 9x18 (makarov), 5K 9mm, 6K 40sw, and some other odd ball rifle brass.

RustyFN
10-10-2010, 16:07
I probably had 3000 pieces of 9mm on hand before I even got my 550B.

I had around 1,500 pieces of 45 brass before I had a gun to shoot them in.:supergrin:


Yes, I'm a brass whore. :rofl:

Hey, I resemble that remark.:tongueout:

GioaJack
10-10-2010, 16:19
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

Not knocking glocktalk, but if your into reloading you might look at a more dedicated forum for that.

I must have 10K 38sp now, 6K 45acp, 1k 9x18 (makarov), 5K 9mm, 6K 40sw, and some other odd ball rifle brass.


With people like Fred, Uncle Albert, Dudel, Unclebob, Little Stevie, Boxer, Et Al on our side if this forum was involved in a battle of wits with another forum they would be considered unarmed. :whistling:

(Sorry Eric... sometimes honor rises above rules.)


Jack

glockaviator
10-10-2010, 16:43
Yes, take up reloading and SAVE a LOT of money. Yes, you sure will. Hah, hah, hah and HAh.:tongueout:

ColdShot
10-10-2010, 18:12
hmm. really starline nickel is the best you can pick up in my opinion

Cases seem to split at the mouth too easily for me,I think Federal is what
I have been seeing

BK63
10-10-2010, 18:17
Every once in a while there will be some kids at the range with about 500 rounds of something I shoot, and they don't reload, and they are standing at the table right next to me. I will very politely ask if they reload, which I know they don't, and ask if it's ok to pick up their brass. When they say sure go ahead it's like Christmas day for me.

njl
10-10-2010, 18:36
Buy brass? Especially pistol brass? Just go to the range...people leave it on the ground.

fredj338
10-10-2010, 19:36
Buy brass? Especially pistol brass? Just go to the range...people leave it on the ground.
This used to be pretty easy but in tyhe last year or so, more people are picking up their brass. I still get the occasional windfall, but not like the old days 4-5yrs ago. I don't think I have every purchased 9mm brass, I just pick it up, sort, clean & reload.:supergrin:

wrx04
10-10-2010, 19:42
I'm reading Lyman's right now and it says to never buy or use once fired brass....it states you should buy new so you are sure of its history. I'm assuming this is *ideal*, but not really necessary as long as you give the brass a good look before reloading?

Also, how many times do you have to trim the cases.....frequently? I dont think a case trimmer came with the stuff i bought, and the book says it only needs to be done once or twice throughout the life of the case. Is this very important?

Colorado4Wheel
10-10-2010, 19:46
I never trim pistol. Most people don't trim pistol. As far as condition of the of the brass you should just inspect it and load it. Only you can say what your comfortable doing.

GioaJack
10-10-2010, 19:48
Trimming pistol brass is like getting married... it's not necessary, takes up a lot of your valuable time and cost you money that could be better spent elsewhere.

Absolutely, positively only load new brass... that leaves all that perfectly good stuff laying on the ground for us.

That answer your questions? :whistling:


Jack

wrx04
10-10-2010, 19:55
Thanks guys.

wrx04
10-10-2010, 20:00
Here's another newb question: how about a headspace gauge? need one for pistol ammo?

VN350X10
10-10-2010, 20:02
Actually, if you measure brand new pistol/revolver brass, it is usually SHORTER than spec out of the box.
Just a suggested experiment:
take 5 pcs. of brand new brass, any mfgr. in 45ACP.
Trim them to a uniform length (prolly gonna be shorter than book, but bear with me).
Load & fire them, & reload 4 more times, total of 5 firings.
Measure again & see if they don't average about .003" SHORTER than your original trim length.

That's right, pistol & revolver brass SHRINKS in length on firing !
It's not a problem in a 1911, because the extractor is what holds the case to the breech face, controlling headspace.
In a 9mm, the case has so much taper in it that it's like a taper shank drill in a drill press.
In a revolver, the rims do the work, so length doesn't really matter....thats why S,L,LR works in .22's, 38 in.357, 44 Spl. in Mag, 45LC, 454Casuell in a .460 S&W(think S,L, LR on steroids here!)
This is also why .357SiG & 9x25 Dillon are a PITA, to work correctly, they should headspace off the shoulder. At least with the 9x25 Dillon, most are built on a 1911 type platform, so Mr.Extractor to the rescue again, as long as the brass is short enough in base-to-shoulder to fit the chamber.

Do yourself a favor, don't over-complicate when not necessary.

uncle albert

GioaJack
10-10-2010, 20:02
Nope, use your barrel or cylinder. (That's the way the big boys do it. :supergrin:)


Jack

shotgunred
10-10-2010, 20:04
I must not be shooting enough because on Saturday I split a case. the first one this year.
That mean I only have 9,999 9mm cases left.

njl
10-10-2010, 20:23
I'm reading Lyman's right now and it says to never buy or use once fired brass....it states you should buy new so you are sure of its history. I'm assuming this is *ideal*, but not really necessary as long as you give the brass a good look before reloading?


I think that was their lawyers editing...just like Glock tells you to use only quality factory ammo.

albyihat
10-10-2010, 20:55
please please use quality factory ammo in your glocks i will be happy to collect your spent brass to shoot out of mine.

fredj338
10-10-2010, 20:55
Here's another newb question: how about a headspace gauge? need one for pistol ammo?
Nice to have em but I reloaded for 25yrs w/o them. Use your pistol's bbl as a gage. The other thing about gages, they DO NOT tell you if your OAL is too long, only that the brass is sized & crimped to spec. You still need to verify OAL in YOUR bbl.

fredj338
10-10-2010, 20:59
Actually, if you measure brand new pistol/revolver brass, it is usually SHORTER than spec out of the box.
Just a suggested experiment:
take 5 pcs. of brand new brass, any mfgr. in 45ACP.
Trim them to a uniform length (prolly gonna be shorter than book, but bear with me).
Load & fire them, & reload 4 more times, total of 5 firings.
Measure again & see if they don't average about .003" SHORTER than your original trim length.

That's right, pistol & revolver brass SHRINKS in length on firing !
It's not a problem in a 1911, because the extractor is what holds the case to the breech face, controlling headspace. If not worn.
In a 9mm, the case has so much taper in it that it's like a taper shank drill in a drill press. Only in a very tight chamber.
In a revolver, the rims do the work, so length doesn't really matter....thats why S,L,LR works in .22's, 38 in.357, 44 Spl. in Mag, 45LC, 454Casuell in a .460 S&W(think S,L, LR on steroids here!) Again, not true. If you want unifrom crimp, they all need to be the same length.This is also why .357SiG & 9x25 Dillon are a PITA, to work correctly, they should headspace off the shoulder. At least with the 9x25 Dillon, most are built on a 1911 type platform, so Mr.Extractor to the rescue again, as long as the brass is short enough in base-to-shoulder to fit the chamber. The extractor doesn't help you if the shouldr is too far forward.
Do yourself a favor, don't over-complicate when not necessary. WHile not complicated, there are certain things you can't change.
uncle albert
Sorry, this is just wrong, not JMO, but incorrect. I have trimmed magnum rev brass many, many times. It headspaces on the rim, the brass flows forward on firing, it stretches. The hotter the load the more it stretches. There is a theory that cases, like the 45acp, will peen as they hit the shoulder in the chamber & this keeps them from stretching. Kind of like an X die. Maybe, but I do know I have never trimmed a semiauto case, never.

KILLERtj
10-10-2010, 21:05
I've never bought pistol brass....as stated, pistol brass is pretty dang easy to come by for cheap to nothing.

Rifle on the other hand is a tougher to scrounge up. I can pick up .223 by the buckets, but thats about it. Picked up 20 7mm RemMag the other day and I felt like a fat kid in a cupcake eating competition.

Prices of new brass from some distributers is rediculous! I'm paying $40/100 for 458 Lott and about $35/100 for 375 H&H, I sure as hell am not paying that for pistol brass.

KILLERtj

fredj338
10-10-2010, 22:43
I've never bought pistol brass....as stated, pistol brass is pretty dang easy to come by for cheap to nothing.

Rifle on the other hand is a tougher to scrounge up. I can pick up .223 by the buckets, but thats about it. Picked up 20 7mm RemMag the other day and I felt like a fat kid in a cupcake eating competition.

Prices of new brass from some distributers is rediculous! I'm paying $40/100 for 458 Lott and about $35/100 for 375 H&H, I sure as hell am not paying that for pistol brass.

KILLERtj
Unfortunately, when you step up to the big boy rifle calibers, nothing is cheap. I shoot a 404jeffery, $1 each for brass is a good deal.:crying: Fortuantely, I get good brass life, 8+ reloads.

mboylan
10-11-2010, 00:52
Here's another newb question: how about a headspace gauge? need one for pistol ammo?

As you read and then re-read to understand, you'll find that straight flush rim pistol cases headspace at the mouth. You will need a case guage to make sure your rounds are in spec and safe. The barrel will work too.

dudel
10-11-2010, 04:38
I avoid the nickel plated cases,junk.........

And yet many of the premium SD factory loads come in nickel plated cases(Hornady, Speer, Corbon, Federal come to mind). :whistling:

IME, it doesn't reload as often as brass(I get split necks); but while it's good, it makes a dandy case.

If you've ever spilled a box of ammo while reloading in the dark, nickel plating doesn't seem like such a bad idea for SD rounds.

dudel
10-11-2010, 04:47
Not knocking glocktalk, but if your into reloading you might look at a more dedicated forum for that.


As a member of castboolits, they are a good group; but focus almost exclusively on casting, mould design and alloys. Reloading is almost secondary. GTR has a different bent.

If you are new to casting, then castboolits is a good place to visit. If you are new to reloading, they'll eat you alive and spit you out in little pieces (they will however keep whatever lead you had in you).:supergrin:

dudel
10-11-2010, 05:02
I'm reading Lyman's right now and it says to never buy or use once fired brass....it states you should buy new so you are sure of its history. I'm assuming this is *ideal*, but not really necessary as long as you give the brass a good look before reloading?

Also, how many times do you have to trim the cases.....frequently? I dont think a case trimmer came with the stuff i bought, and the book says it only needs to be done once or twice throughout the life of the case. Is this very important?

That would be "ideal". Likely it's the lawyers talking as Lyman doesn't know the skill level of the reloader using the book; or the quality (or lack thereof) of the components used to make the round.

For +p or +P+, myself, I would only use new brass. The problem with range brass is you don't know if it was once fired factory stuff; or abused, tired brass that some hot dog loaded to ++P++ levels, then shot in a gun with a generous chamber and bad headspacing. Now you want to use it to contain your own mini-explosives. Keep it to safe levels (below high) and you should be fine. It's easier to inspect brass for flaws when it's clean, so do yourself a favor and clean all the range brass. Toss any suspect cases. If one is squashed, toss it; don't grab a pair of plier and try to round out the case mouth. It cost you nothing, treat it that way.

The only time I trim pistol brass is on new brass. Sound strange, but I never seem to find any once fired 357 Maximum brass at the range. I had to buy new brass. New brass seems to come on the longish side of the spec. Since the 357 Max takes a roll crimp, case lenght (and uniformity) was important. I suspect commercial ammo machines have a trim step/die much like the 1050 can do. This is what uniforms the factory ammo.

When dealing with once fired brass, I've found that if the seller sends me a box that is mostly the same headstamp, it likely came from the military or a LEO range. This stuff is normally true once-fired brass. If on the other hand, I get a box of mixed headstamps, it likely came from Jack and Joe's shoot em up range, and there's no telling what condition the brass is in. I'm very carefull with that stuff as who knows what happened to it before it got to me.

fredj338
10-11-2010, 13:07
As you read and then re-read to understand, you'll find that straight flush rim pistol cases headspace at the mouth. You will need a case guage to make sure your rounds are in spec and safe. The barrel will work too.

I'm sure you meant rimless. Rimmed rounds headspace on the rim, hence the rim. Case gages are nice, but only tell yo if the case was sized & crimped to spec. It does NOTHING for telling you if your OAL is correct. You need your pistols bbl & mag for that.:supergrin:

KILLERtj
10-11-2010, 15:56
fredj338-but those big boy calibers are sooo much fun!

I've been buying belted magnum brass and cutting them to either .458Lott or .458 Win Mag lengths and annealing them. Kinda cool having brass with no headstamp. I've also been getting 8+ reloads per case.

KILLERtj

mboylan
10-11-2010, 16:46
I'm sure you meant rimless. Rimmed rounds headspace on the rim, hence the rim. Case gages are nice, but only tell yo if the case was sized & crimped to spec. It does NOTHING for telling you if your OAL is correct. You need your pistols bbl & mag for that.:supergrin:

Flush rim is more correct. If you've ever loaded for the short magnum rifle cartridges, they have recessed rims and would still be considered rimless. The body of the cartridge is wider than the rim. It's still a rim, just not one the cartridge can headspace on.

VN350X10
10-11-2010, 20:50
My last time out to one of the rifle ranges, I had the Brass Gods smile on me profusely.....
A couple of gents were swapping off on a Ruger 77 Tropical in .375 H&H, and letting the brass fly.
I politely asked if they were going to pick it up for reloading, & the one said,"No, we're required to use factory ammo only, by the ins. co."
Turns out that they work for Brookfield Zoo, near Chi. & are some of the in-house "emergency" crew.
So I said "THANK YOU" and picked up the 80 pcs. of once fired Federal Premium nickled brass.
Oh yeah, they were averaging about 1 1/2" for 5 @ 100 yds. with the .375.

Gave them one of my cards & told them the next time they planned a "plinking" session, please call me & I'd buy lunch !

Not groundhog or prarie dog groups, but their varmints are a bit bigger !


uncle albert

fredj338
10-11-2010, 22:21
Flush rim is more correct. If you've ever loaded for the short magnum rifle cartridges, they have recessed rims and would still be considered rimless. The body of the cartridge is wider than the rim. It's still a rim, just not one the cartridge can headspace on.
Not really. The correct term is rebated rim, but they are still rimless. Please look it up. Rim or flanged (old Brit term), same, same. The key to ID, an extractor slot, rimmed cases do not have them or need them.:dunno:
I've been buying belted magnum brass and cutting them to either .458Lott or .458 Win Mag lengths and annealing them. Kinda cool having brass with no headstamp. I've also been getting 8+ reloads per case.
I had a Lott for a short while. I will admit, it was a bit much for me, at least in it's 9 1/2# wt. I used to make brass from 375h&h, just fire form them.

Boxerglocker
10-11-2010, 22:30
Here's another newb question: how about a headspace gauge? need one for pistol ammo?

I use one of these for my 9mm chamber checks, having 7 bores makes it go a hell of alot faster when your checking 300-500 rounds a session.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/catid/3/pid/25580/EGW_Chamber_Checkers

http://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages//EGW_Case_Gage_m.jpg

For my .45ACP, .40S&W or .380ACP I use the Dillon single case gauge.