New Reloader Seeking Assistance With 9mm [Archive] - Glock Talk

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mike6252
10-28-2010, 14:33
Hello everyone, I've gotten all my components together to begin to reloading. I want to begin loading 115 gr FMJ and work up to 147 gr FN. I need a recommendation for a good starting brand of powder/bullet/primers, with a solid resource for data as well. I have a Hornady reloading manual which lists data for both bullets obviously but I want to have data for the exact components i'll be using. I'll be loading using a RCBS turret press with dies made by the same and the weapon i'll be reloading for is my G19. Thanks guys.

DoctaGlockta
10-28-2010, 14:40
Primers - whatever you can find
Bullets - Precision delta is a good quality value. Montana gold is pricier.
Powder - Unique

Good luck

ave8er
10-28-2010, 14:53
I just started a month or so ago. I am using tite group powder, it seems a little dirty but I have not used anything else. I ordered 115grn generic bullets from first class http://www.firstclassbulletsandbrass.com/ and they sent me 115grn Montan Golds (bonus) I used Federal primers and I am going to use Winchesters next.

robin303
10-28-2010, 15:28
Get one of these: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Loadbooks-USA/704597.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3DRel oading%2BBooks%26x%3D14%26y%3D14&Ntt=Reloading+Books

unionman
10-28-2010, 16:03
Brian Enos forum has a lot of info on reloading. I just started doing 9 a couple of months ago and like Vhita Vouri N320 or N 340 with a 147 Mg.

Boxerglocker
10-28-2010, 16:08
I just started a month or so ago. I am using tite group powder, it seems a little dirty but I have not used anything else. I ordered 115grn generic bullets from first class http://www.firstclassbulletsandbrass.com/ and they sent me 115grn Montan Golds (bonus) I used Federal primers and I am going to use Winchesters next.

You can buy from either PD or MG direct and much cheaper....

nitesite10mm
10-28-2010, 20:49
You'll love shooting the 147-gr bullet.

PastorDan
10-28-2010, 21:12
For me it is Winchester 115gn FMJ with 5.5 grains Unique and CCI primers (unless they are out of stock then it is federal primers) 5.5 grains fills the case well I am not sure I could over charge without really trying.

IndyGunFreak
10-28-2010, 21:32
Get one of these: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Loadbooks-USA/704597.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3DRel oading%2BBooks%26x%3D14%26y%3D14&Ntt=Reloading+Books

I love those Loadbooks... I've got them in 9, 40, .45, .38/.357.

I typically use the Lyman 49th, Loadbooks, and the homepage for my powder to double check all my settings.

Winchester, Alliant, Hogdon, etc.. all offer reloading data on their website. Also, handloads.org has a great "Load Database".. most of it is just stuff consolidated from various manufacturers.. but some data is provided by users... as always.. Trust but verify.

As far as finding the exact bullet thats in the loading manual... That's going to be difficult in many cases.... just do your best, and be safe.

IGF

03knives
10-28-2010, 21:46
always try to use the reloading data for the brand bullet you are using, speer bullet/speer data, I load a lot of 9mm,and use power pistol for jacketed bullets,and I load a lot of cast bullets and use unique or win,231. I use a lonewolf barrel in my glock17when shooting lead.Bullet seating depth is very important with a auto pistol,and do not roll crimp the bullet.A lyman reloading book is always been a good all around book to use.

mike6252
10-28-2010, 22:16
Thanks guys for the info, keep it coming!

fredj338
10-28-2010, 22:50
You'll be hard pressed to find exact data for the components you can get affordably. Most reloading manauls use bullets from the majors, they aren't cheap. You won't find exact data for plated anything, maybe AA powders for some bullets, very little lead bullet data & not much if anything mentioned about bulk bullets like Winchester or PrecD, MG, etc. The best you can do is get several manuals, study them, compare the bullets you do have & match them to the best ability w/ the bullets in the data. Start just off the starting loads & work them up.
IMO, stay away from uberfast powders, that is anything faster than WST. They can get a newb into trouble very quickly. Choose a medium burner like Unique, WSF, Universal & any 115-147gr bullet & start w/ 1# ONLY of that. AFter you have loaded your first 1400 or so rounds, you'll have a better feel for the process & can start exploring diff powders.

Boxerglocker
10-28-2010, 23:38
always try to use the reloading data for the brand bullet you are using, speer bullet/speer data, I load a lot of 9mm,and use power pistol for jacketed bullets,and I load a lot of cast bullets and use unique or win,231. I use a lonewolf barrel in my glock17when shooting lead.Bullet seating depth is very important with a auto pistol,and do not roll crimp the bullet.A lyman reloading book is always been a good all around book to use.

Though generally this is good advice... always keep in mind that there are certain fixed varibles used when using manufactuers data. For instance Fred pointed out to me one time when asking for load data that a certain manufacter tends to seat thier bullets very short and would greatly affect pressures and velocity. That stated best to err to the safe side and watch for signs of problems, especially when approaching max loads.

cole
10-28-2010, 23:49
You'll be hard pressed to find exact data for the components you can get affordably. Most reloading manauls use bullets from the majors, they aren't cheap. You won't find exact data for plated anything, maybe AA powders for some bullets, very little lead bullet data & not much if anything mentioned about bulk bullets like Winchester or PrecD, MG, etc. The best you can do is get several manuals, study them, compare the bullets you do have & match them to the best ability w/ the bullets in the data. Start just off the starting loads & work them up.
IMO, stay away from uberfast powders, that is anything faster than WST. They can get a newb into trouble very quickly. Choose a medium burner like Unique, WSF, Universal & any 115-147gr bullet & start w/ 1# ONLY of that. AFter you have loaded your first 1400 or so rounds, you'll have a better feel for the process & can start exploring diff powders.

OP: read this post a few times. Especially the part about choosing a medium burning powder to start. I'll add to start with FMJ before lead/plated.

FLSlim
10-29-2010, 12:58
Listen to FredJ338. He does know his stuff.

AA#5
10-29-2010, 13:08
You don't need to match components exactly (as to brand) unless you're loading maximum loads. You only need to match issues that affect pressure - mainly the weight of the bullet, the powder charge, the overall length of the cartridge and the type of primer (magnum or standard). Keep in mind that a "Hornady" or "Speer" manual will only provide data for THEIR bullets. They obviously want you to buy their overpriced bullets.

As someone else posted, "Precision Delta" has great prices on 9mm FMJ bullets. Just use the data in your manual for whatever weight bullet you choose - and match jacketed vs cast lead. I'd start with a mid-range powder charge & only 50 rounds to check functioning in your gun before loading a few hundred.

My favorite powder for 9mm is AA#5 because it meters very consistently & is clean burning. A normal charge also fills half the case - which makes a double charge easy to see.

robin303
10-29-2010, 13:42
Listen to FredJ338. He does know his stuff.

Jack is pretty darn good to. He has been reloading since the tail end of the civil war. :whistling: But if you live below 8000' look out for triple A and Flak.:supergrin:

fredj338
10-29-2010, 15:54
Jack is pretty darn good to. He has been reloading since the tail end of the civil war. :whistling: But if you live below 8000' look out for triple A and Flak.:supergrin:


Yeah, but Jack keeps trying to shoot BP out of his little Kimber. Just can't seem to get him to stop shooting it. Old dog, new tricks.:rofl:
I'd start with a mid-range powder charge & only 50 rounds to check functioning in your gun before loading a few hundred.
JMO, way too many rounds to load for first run at a new powder/bullet combo. When the first two have to be fired singleshot, now it's "hammer time" pulling 48 apart.
I do load workups by using average middle data. Load 10rds, then 10rds +0.1gr & 10rds -0.1gr. Shoot them in order & note functioning, accuracy, pressure signs (either lack of or too much). The sweet spot is likely to be there or you can continue up or down in 0.1gr increments, It will tell you much more about your bullet/powder combo vs picking one load & shooting 50.:dunno:

Toml
10-29-2010, 16:01
I like to chronograph loads to see where my loads fall in relation to the loads I'm trying to match in a manual, keeping in mind that barrel length affects velocity.

fredj338
10-29-2010, 16:06
I like to chronograph loads to see where my loads fall in relation to the loads I'm trying to match in a manual, keeping in mind that barrel length affects velocity.
I do the same thing, BUT, keep in mind that all guns are diff, all bbls are diff. What one gun gets, another may not. I have 5 diff 4" 357mags. They all throw diff vel w/ the exact same load. One of them is a full 125-150fps slower than the average of the other 4. So trying to get "book vel" with that rev, well it would never happen.:supergrin:

GioaJack
10-29-2010, 16:19
As usual Fred is correct again, (even if he is a relative young'un he knows his stuff. Ya think he'd be smart enough not to live over there on the Left Coast.)

There is one thing I differ on, only slightly though and it's location dependent; it concerns the number of rounds to initially produce when working up a load.

For those who are forced to drive an hour or more to a range or pay the high prices of a closer indoor range I can certainly see the rational of loading 5 or 10 of one load and possibly upping a series of loads in say .02 grain increments. (Unless you're at max I really don't believe .01 of a grain makes any difference nor would you notice it but that's up to the individual.)

If you don't fall into the traveling shooter category and are fortunate enough to be able to walk out the back door and test your rounds a lot of the small incremental testing can be avoided. This presumes of course that you're an experienced shooter/loader to be able to interpret what your rounds are doing and can make an educated determination of where you want to go from the first work-up loads.

If you don't feel comfortable with that system by all means don't use it, take your time and be careful... the knowledge will come soon enough.


Jack