Having a problem with my .40 reloads, HELP! [Archive] - Glock Talk

PDA

View Full Version : Having a problem with my .40 reloads, HELP!


BSA70
11-08-2010, 15:06
I have a lee classic press set up. Use Misourri Bullets.

The reloads functions fine in my glock. If I decide not to fire a whole magazine, I cannot pull the slide back to eject the round. I have to fire it to get the round out. It's so tight in the chamber, I cannot rack the slide back. But it feeds ok.

I'm using a lone wolf barrel .40 in a glock 33. Am I messing up on a step in the process?

ron59
11-08-2010, 15:19
Maybe not getting the base sized properly ?

shotgunred
11-08-2010, 15:33
I a 40 sw a LW barrel is 3 thousands of an inch tighter than a stock glock barrel.

First thing is to makes sure that your sizing die is all the way down to the shell pate. If that doesn't work you can send three blank rounds and your barrel to LW to get your barrel reamed. Lastly you could try an U die ( undersized sizer or a lee factory crimp die) Did I just say FCD out loud?:wow:

I found that both a Dillon and a lee sizing die would work with plated bullets if properly set up. For lead you just need to send your barrel in for sizing.

FLSlim
11-08-2010, 15:44
I assume you don't have the same problem with factory loads? If not, I'm with ShotgunRed. Either, go to a U-die or Redding push through, or send some dummy rounds and your barrel back to LW and let them work on the chamber. Also, go to the GATE Glock Pistol Forum and run your question by JR.

Colorado4Wheel
11-08-2010, 16:00
Either the case is not sized properly all the way down or the bullet is seated to long and jamming into the rifling. Both would make the loaded round hard to eject. Smaller possibility is the bullet is going in off center. Also causing it to jam in the tighter LW barrel. Could also be your not removing all the flare as well. To find the solution you must find the problem. To find the problem

1) Size 10 cases and try to drop the sized cases into the LW barrel chamber. If they hang up you now know that they are not sized properly.
2) Drop a completed round into the chamber. See if it goes in all the way. If it now does not go in all the way it's either the flare, the bullet is hitting the rifling or its seated a little off center.

Use a black marker and mark the bullet. If it's hitting the rifling you will be able to spin the bullet and see the mark.

Measure the end of the case for any left over flare using your dial calipers.

It's just a process of elimination. DON'T just randomly add more crimp. Don't try all the fixes at one time. Do one thing at a time and figure it out that way.

If you roll the loaded round on a table you can see the bullet wobble if it's not seated straight.

DWARREN123
11-08-2010, 16:15
When starting to reload, safe the pistol and remove the barrel. Use the barrel as a gauge to check the reloads and set your dies accordingly so the round will just chamber and drop out by its own weight.

ColdShot
11-08-2010, 16:17
barrel is too tight for range brass thats not 100% perfect....
My G27 is a jamomatic with the Wolf barrel and used brass,
IMO they need a slight taper at the feed ramp of a few thou but that may
effect accuracy and defeats the whole purpose of buying a tighter barrel

My Stock barrel eats everything and seems just as accurate to me

Colorado4Wheel
11-08-2010, 16:25
There is no reason for your reloads to not chamber just fine in a properly made barrel. If you don't have a case gauge you won't know if your reloads are properly made. So thats the rub.

ColdShot
11-08-2010, 16:59
There is no reason for your reloads to not chamber just fine in a properly made barrel. If you don't have a case gauge you won't know if your reloads are properly made. So thats the rub.

Nah
They case gauge fine.....Wolf is just tight,like the guy said maybe
3 thou....and used range brass is not always perfect enough

WiskyT
11-08-2010, 17:10
Nah
They case gauge fine.....Wolf is just tight,like the guy said maybe
3 thou....and used range brass is not always perfect enough

When are they ever going to learn? LW barrels are to friggin tight. My Beretta barrel is looser than my GLock 40SW barrels, but the Glock barrel is too loose and the internet says so.

You can tell people until you're blue in the face that a lead bullet, with a decent charge of an appropriate powder, will shoot great in a stock Glock barrel and they will still buy and aftermarket barrel and expose themselves to the frustration of a gun that won't run or even go into battery.

After buying a too tight aftermarket barrel and having problems, but still not willing to admit their $150.00 would have been better spent on an ACORN donation, they buy another $150.00 worth of undersized this and that to squeeze their perfectly good ammo into their defective barrel.

Colorado4Wheel
11-08-2010, 17:18
Nah
They case gauge fine.....Wolf is just tight,like the guy said maybe
3 thou....and used range brass is not always perfect enough

Either the barrel is not in Sammi Spec
Either the ammo is not in sammi spec
Or
The case gauge is too big.

Thats about the extent of it.

Said another way.

If you ammo is in spec, it will fit a in spec barrel. That is pretty simple really.

Colorado4Wheel
11-08-2010, 17:23
When are they ever going to learn? LW barrels are to friggin tight. My Beretta barrel is looser than my GLock 40SW barrels, but the Glock barrel is too loose and the internet says so.

You can tell people until you're blue in the face that a lead bullet, with a decent charge of an appropriate powder, will shoot great in a stock Glock barrel and they will still buy and aftermarket barrel and expose themselves to the frustration of a gun that won't run or even go into battery.

After buying a too tight aftermarket barrel and having problems, but still not willing to admit their $150.00 would have been better spent on an ACORN donation, they buy another $150.00 worth of undersized this and that to squeeze their perfectly good ammo into their defective barrel.

Not that simple. Your bullets leaded horribly in my Glock barrel. PERHAPS I could have used slower powder and made them work but thats is not the type of load I want. I want to use a faster powder. I have never had chambering issues with my KKM or my LW barrel. Interestingly enough the guy I sold my LW barrel too had to have it rechambered to work with his ammo. Begs the question why my ammo was 100% and his wouldn't work. I would guess his ammo is not within spec and mine is.

ZekerMan
11-08-2010, 17:23
When are they ever going to learn? LW barrels are to friggin tight. My Beretta barrel is looser than my GLock 40SW barrels, but the Glock barrel is too loose and the internet says so.

You can tell people until you're blue in the face that a lead bullet, with a decent charge of an appropriate powder, will shoot great in a stock Glock barrel and they will still buy and aftermarket barrel and expose themselves to the frustration of a gun that won't run or even go into battery.

After buying a too tight aftermarket barrel and having problems, but still not willing to admit their $150.00 would have been better spent on an ACORN donation, they buy another $150.00 worth of undersized this and that to squeeze their perfectly good ammo into their defective barrel.

Wisky T is correct, I went thru this BS back in the mid 80s, got rid of the aftermarket barrels and no worries with sensible lead reloads and a barrel cleaning after shooting. I however do not recommend the Acorn donation.:whistling: Give to Wounded Warriors instead.:cool:

Colorado4Wheel
11-08-2010, 17:31
Wisky T is correct, I went thru this BS back in the mid 80s, got rid of the aftermarket barrels and no worries with sensible lead reloads and a barrel cleaning after shooting. I however do not recommend the Acorn donation.:whistling: Give to Wounded Warriors instead.:cool:

I sometimes clean my gun every 2K rounds. Is that going to work with a Glock Barrel?:rofl:

WiskyT
11-08-2010, 17:41
Not that simple. Your bullets leaded horribly in my Glock barrel. PERHAPS I could have used slower powder and made them work but thats is not the type of load I want. I want to use a faster powder. I have never had chambering issues with my KKM or my LW barrel. Interestingly enough the guy I sold my LW barrel too had to have it rechambered to work with his ammo. Begs the question why my ammo was 100% and his wouldn't work. I would guess his ammo is not within spec and mine is.

Well, some people come up with their own parameters and then use them to justify the hoops they jump through to make something work. Case in point, my friend needed a new car and wanted to know about the deal I got on my Tacoma. He called me back a couple of days later mad that the deal he could get was basically double what I paid. I explained that I got the cheapest 2wd four door Taco they had, which was a factory incentive and that he could get the same deal I got by doing the same thing I did (print the offer out on the computer and show it to the dealer). "I need 4wd for my boat" he says, and "I need a stick". Well, he doesn't need the boat does he? And manual transmissions have been eclipsed a decade ago, especially for someone who is only going to commute on paved roads 10 miles each way.

30kpsi with lead bullets and fast powders has never worked well in any gun. There is a Reason Elmer and the boys used Unique and 2400 for heavy loads. Buying a different barrel and making bullets out of tungsten carbide might be a solution, but using 5.0 Unique with a stock barrel would be a lot easier. It's kind of like having special bolts fitted to a Honda because you don't want to use metric wrenches to work on it.

BTW, you did everything with those bullets except the two things that would have prooved my point. Those bullets were a challenge. I drop the gauntlet on you sir: Try 5.0 unique with ten of them. It will make minor and shoot great with no leading in your stock barrel. And just for ****s and giggles, try 3.5 of the Solo1000 you use. It more than likely won't make minor, but it will shoot great and not lead your stock barrel.

WiskyT
11-08-2010, 17:43
I sometimes clean my gun every 2K rounds. Is that going to work with a Glock Barrel?:rofl:

You autoclave every piece of bras before blueprinting it, but a little CLP and a toothbrush is too much to deal with?

fredj338
11-08-2010, 18:54
Nah
They case gauge fine.....Wolf is just tight,like the guy said maybe
3 thou....and used range brass is not always perfect enough
A case gage will NOT tell you if the round is too long OAL. LW bbls are tight & often short thorated. What you describe is a bullet that may be engaging rifling during chambering. Reduce the charge wt a bit & seat the bullet deeper. Bullet seating for a new bullet should be done w/ a dummy round in YOUR bbl. Case gage or not, the bbl is the final determining factor.
It's not so much the bbl is out of spec but minimum spec as opposed to the GLcok's generous specs. My XDTAC has a short throat & I need to seat certain bullets slightly deeper than I do for my 1911s. You can send it back to LW & they will lengthen the throat, if that is the issue. Easy enough to tell, try a sized empty case, if it fits, then it's the bullet &/or your crimp. What OAL are you loading, which Miss bullet? I assume you are properly taper crimping if the round fits the case gage (what the gage does tell you).

oldsoldier
11-08-2010, 19:04
I had the same problem with a Lone Wolf barrel in my G27. Pull the barrel and insert a round as others suggested. Too long? Mine were at book recommended OAL. I ended up seating a 180g lead flat point bullet much shorter than usual. That was about 5K rounds back and not one single problem since. I had to do the same for the LW barrel in my G30. A lead 230g LRN requires a seating depth of 1.240 to run properly in MY barrel. I have never seated shorter than 1.260 in any other .45 ACP pistol. Check your OAL.

ChrisJn
11-09-2010, 05:37
Either the barrel is not in Sammi Spec
Either the ammo is not in sammi spec
Or
The case gauge is too big.

Thats about the extent of it.

Said another way.

If you ammo is in spec, it will fit a in spec barrel. That is pretty simple really.

Simple but true! +1.

BSA70
11-09-2010, 07:26
Great advise! I have a case gauge, I thought that was telling me everything is ok. I'm getting ready to start making a new batch, this time I will take the barrel to the shop and run some test.

If lone wolf resizes it larger, will that be harder on the life of the brass?

Thanks

MSgt Dotson
11-09-2010, 09:09
Look at the portion of the bullet that is still full diameter/.40 cal that protrudes above the case mouth....

that is your problem; extraction of one of the rounds that was stuck will likely show scratches on the bullet just above the case mouth...

LWD bbls need the lead bullets seated just a tad deeper to avoid this....; I have run most of my .40 loads to 1.12" oal to avoid this....

BSA70
11-09-2010, 13:34
Thank you!

fredj338
11-09-2010, 14:19
Great advise! I have a case gauge, I thought that was telling me everything is ok. I'm getting ready to start making a new batch, this time I will take the barrel to the shop and run some test.

If lone wolf resizes it larger, will that be harder on the life of the brass?

Thanks
NO. If you have LW open the throat, they will remove a bit of the rifling, it will have no affect on the brass. As Msgt notes, it's likely your OAL because of the shallow throat.

Colorado4Wheel
11-09-2010, 14:53
And I would be inclined to just seat a little deeper to see if the problem goes away. Not a lot of leeway in the .40SW but it's worth a shot as long as your comfortable with your load and know your not increasing pressure too much. A chrono whould be a great help with this as well.