When to cut your losses? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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GJ1981
11-18-2010, 20:43
Well, I got back from a quick range trip which was meet with disappointing results, again. I have not been able to get one of my 1911's to go 200 rounds without a FTF recently, typically I've been getting 2-4 3-point malfunction's per 100 rounds.

I have cleaned the pistol, changed springs, checked extractor tension, tried different ammo, EGW mag catch, different mags, even returned it twice to the builder...nothing is helping. I have never had so many problems with ANY pistol, let along one with this price tag.

I am not having any problems with my other 1911's so I'm ruling out the shooter or ammo as the culprits.

I like the pistol, but I just can't trust it enough to carry and have little use for safe queens. On the other hand, I don't want to sell it since I'd take a horrible loss.

So, when's enough, enough? I've thought about sending it to a LTW smith to see if he can get it running, but I'm not sure I feel like dropping more money into an already high dollar pistol. Kinda defeats the purpose of spending the money to begin with.

I've seen a trend where malfunctioning pistol threads get few responses so....lets see.

Quack
11-18-2010, 20:45
man, that sucks :(

drc767
11-18-2010, 20:47
Do you care to share some build specifics?

Quack
11-18-2010, 20:50
I know which gun he speaks of.

Hokie1911
11-18-2010, 20:50
Maybe another trip back to the builder with a long detailed conversation of the issues? Process of elimination to find out what's wrong. Pain in the ass, but better than eating a big loss unloading it.

TxGun
11-18-2010, 20:51
Sometimes you have to (cut your losses), but if it's a high-dollar pistol, I hope it was done by a reputable builder. And if that is the case, I'd get the gun back to him and insist he get it running and not return it until it was. But maybe your experiences with this builder already preclude that option? :dunno: You could also take it to another gunsmith, of course, if you know a good one...as a last resort. I'd hate to give up on something like that...especially since the 'right' hands can almost always make them work. All guns, after all, are relatively simple mechanisms.

Quack
11-18-2010, 20:52
if it's the gun i think it is, it should run right out of the box.

GJ1981
11-18-2010, 20:52
Do you care to share some build specifics?

Not right now, I try not to post much when I'm upset. I'm trying to stay positive on the situation...while my patience lasts.

I will say it's a "name" shop/builder.

Hokie1911
11-18-2010, 20:53
Not right now, I try not to post much when I'm upset. I'm trying to stay positive on the situation...

I will say it's a "name" shop/builder.

Fusion????

:rofl:
Sorry, couldn't resist.

GJ1981
11-18-2010, 20:56
Fusion????

:rofl:
Sorry, couldn't resist.

I don't think so...

http://www.shadowandact.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/homey_the_clown.jpg

brisk21
11-18-2010, 21:16
maybe this is a stupid questions, but have you demanded your money back from the company? If I buy a gun that costs over 1k, and send it back to the company twice and they cant get it running, I either want a new one that will run or my money back so I can go buy a different high end pistol.

dnuggett
11-18-2010, 22:07
Not right now, I try not to post much when I'm upset. I'm trying to stay positive on the situation...while my patience lasts.

I will say it's a "name" shop/builder.

When will you share the name?

Quack
11-18-2010, 22:34
nope...

kirgi08
11-18-2010, 22:39
:wow:

Sarge43
11-18-2010, 22:46
I don't think there is much wrong with arguing strongly with the builder/shop that this pistol does not run as you have the right to expect it too. I agree with the other poster, and would probably demand that he/they take the pistol and get it running right before returning it to you, or you would like your money back. Of course, the longer you wait, and the more rounds you put through it, the more difficult this will be.
I hope you get it figured out!
Also, I commend your not starting a rant thread to bash the builder while you are are upset. There may be a time for that, but you wanting to ensure it is deserved and fairly done when it happens is admirable.
Good luck!
Sarge

FLIPPER 348
11-18-2010, 23:14
Threads like this make me glad I build my won 1911s.


Seriously dude, demand the builder fixes the firearm or retune your $$$. I don't see the issue.

bac1023
11-19-2010, 04:15
That's a shame.

drc767
11-19-2010, 04:24
Are the only malfunctions your are having are 3 point failures? Have you had anybody check the barrel link? I would check to see if the barrel is riding the link, causing a 3 point malfunction. Just for a test.....try a heavier recoil spring. It is not going to fix a link issue, but it may put a band aid on it and point you toward the link being the actual culprit of the issue. Don't give up on this thing.....it can most certainly be fixed.

Russ424
11-19-2010, 04:40
Don't give up on the thing! You say you had the gun built which means that you had it built to your specs and if you can get it working I can imagine it would have to then be one of your favorite guns. You also say that is was built by good builder which to me would mean that they would stand to take the gun back for a third time. After a long detailed discussion with the builder once more and a third trip back I would not hesitate to ask for a replacement or your money back.

paul45
11-19-2010, 05:57
I agree with requiring a 100% product or a 100% refund.

GJ1981
11-19-2010, 06:27
Are the only malfunctions your are having are 3 point failures? Have you had anybody check the barrel link? I would check to see if the barrel is riding the link, causing a 3 point malfunction. Just for a test.....try a heavier recoil spring. It is not going to fix a link issue, but it may put a band aid on it and point you toward the link being the actual culprit of the issue. Don't give up on this thing.....it can most certainly be fixed.

I may not be using the exact term but the failure I'm consistently getting is called a Type II, High Angle by Hilton Yam - 1911 Malfunctions (http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=51276#Post51276) The round is getting caught under the slide. At first the extractor was believed to the the problem, but obviously, wasn't the case. They polished the breachface, which seemed to help some but hasn't eliminated the problem.

I have tried his recommendations as far as my capabilities go. I'm wondering if the "slide-stroke" might be the problem. The malfunction almost always happens with the 1st or 2nd rounds of a full magazine.

I don't have a GS anywhere local, at least not one I feel that is competent. I have an 18.5# in it right now, I was thinking of buying a 20# just to see.


I will say this situation is more complicated than it seems, which is why I'm not telling all. Prior to my problems, I had ordered a second pistol from the same shop, which is still in the works. I know, I know, but I did this because I had a very positive past experience with their builds. I never expected to have any troubles so nothing could have been avoided.

I'm waiting things because of this. I can't cancel my order now without losing 50% from my FFL. Since they'd have nothing to do with the problem they would not give me my full money back. I'm pretty much done with them anyway so that's another story.



During my pistol's last trip back they believed/deemed the ammo was the problem because it was too short (1.245") but even the last box of Federal I checked, which I was shooting during my last range trip, was 1.257". The ammo is well within specs of my reloading manuals for a 230gr.


My reloads are 1.26" and should have no problems feeding but do, so I'm not using them in this pistol to eliminate the "reloading" is the problem factor.


I'm considering asking for my money back, never had to do such a thing. I'm not sure how that will go but I'm getting my pieces in order to build a case. It will be hard since they've made they diagnosis after the last trip.


Hopefully the one I ordered prior to this mess won't be plagued, otherwise I'll have no problems naming the builder.

Quack
11-19-2010, 06:33
where in IN are you? there is Ray Salztman that does good work and is a 1911 smith

Saltzman Gun Works
765-675-2040
3896 South 400 West
Tipton, IN 46072
sgwi@tds.net

GJ1981
11-19-2010, 06:39
where in IN are you? there is Ray Salztman that does good work and is a 1911 smith

Saltzman Gun Works
765-675-2040
3896 South 400 West
Tipton, IN 46072
sgwi@tds.net

Thanks for taking the time to look up a smith.

I'm near South Bend, about 2.5 hours from Tipton.

My problem is I work full-time, usually, and go to school FT. It's hard to make long trips during the week and Saturday.

Jim Watson
11-19-2010, 06:55
I have an 18.5# in it right now, I was thinking of buying a 20# just to see.

That would be a step in the wrong direction for the misfunction you describe.
Try a 16 lb spring like Mr Browning, Colt, and the Army used.

Eagle22
11-19-2010, 06:59
NEW Premium Ammo or Reloads ?

have you tried different ammo ?

lawdog734
11-19-2010, 07:37
I would try and send it back, not take a loss. That being said if it is the one I think it is. If you sell it, I'll take it

GJ1981
11-19-2010, 08:25
NEW Premium Ammo or Reloads ?

have you tried different ammo ?

Recently was the Federal in a red and black box that Wal-Mart sells. I have used Blazer brass, WWB, and UMC as my factory brands. I have fired a small batch of HP ammo but not enough to make an accurate assessment.

I have fired my reloads, which are currently 230gr Berry's with 5.0 gr of Bullseye and around 1.26" OAL. Prior to these I had 200gr Rainer's with 4.8gr and 1.26 OAL. I initially had them set lower (1.245 - 1.248) but had 3-4 failures per mag. These loads work great in my other 45's, including 1911's.



I took a few pics of my barrel and noticed something that may be of a concern. It has some peening in certain areas. I tried to take some good pictures but my camera is obsolete...as am I in taking pics. I marked the areas in certain photos.

When I move the link, it catches on these are ever so slightly. Could this be my problem or a new one? I only have 1500 or so rounds through it. I know basic stuff, but this isn't something I know much about.




Hopefully these pics come through well enough to be useful. I am uploading them as large as possible for detail.




<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=34rdl4w" target="_blank"><img src="http://i52.tinypic.com/34rdl4w.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=21b6irr" target="_blank"><img src="http://i52.tinypic.com/21b6irr.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=15xwnd3" target="_blank"><img src="http://i52.tinypic.com/15xwnd3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=2vmvcck" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.tinypic.com/2vmvcck.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=2mfkzs3" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.tinypic.com/2mfkzs3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

<a href="http://tinypic.com?ref=1670dq1" target="_blank"><img src="http://i52.tinypic.com/1670dq1.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

drc767
11-19-2010, 08:49
It may be because the pictures are so large and detailed, but it sure looks to me like something is beating the crap out of the lower lugs and link area. That could very well explain your 3-Point Failures. That SOB would be going back to the Mfg. with specific feedback as to the area of concern. You would probably get a new barrel and link out of the deal, I would think. That looks like total hell for only having 1,500 rounds through it.

MD357
11-19-2010, 08:51
You need to send that back quick fast in a hurry. That "ain't right."

Tactical black
11-19-2010, 08:59
You need to send that back quick fast in a hurry. That "ain't right."

I agree I wouldn't tolerate that send it back make them fix it.

Cerebrus
11-19-2010, 09:30
Hmm looking at the handwriting on the engraving..I think I know where it came from.. send it back to where it came from.. they will do you right..

GJ1981
11-19-2010, 09:30
The pics are pretty big for detail, so it may make things look worse than they are.

I send them an email...will see what happens.

Hokie1911
11-19-2010, 09:34
The pics are pretty big for detail, so it may make things look worse than they are.

I send them an email...will see what happens.

From everything I hear about their CS, you should be in good shape. Hope they make it right for you.

Quack
11-19-2010, 09:52
I would try and send it back, not take a loss. That being said if it is the one I think it is. If you sell it, I'll take it

Get in line. His friend has first dibs, I have second, and you're third.

Hokie1911
11-19-2010, 09:53
Get in line. His friend has first dibs, I have second, and you're third.

:rofl:

FLIPPER 348
11-19-2010, 10:31
if it's the gun i think it is, it should run right out of the box.


any 1911 built should

If the problem is not the ammo then something something fundamental wrong. I could diagnose and fix this problem in a few hours. Any competent GS with a box full of 1911 goodies could do the same.


The 1st thing I would do is swap out the barrel a GI spec, proper link and blast away. It would be interesting to see a pic of the breach face (for lack of a better term) A Dremel monkey might have got a little nutty on the lower edge.



BTW-- the pics show a well worn barrel/link. How many rounds does this 1911 have downrange?? The 'peening' (whatever that is) appears to me mostly tear down/build-up damage. And there is evidence of a shaky Dremel hand with the polishing tip!

lawdog734
11-19-2010, 10:31
Damn, always too slow

dosei
11-19-2010, 11:49
I may not be using the exact term but the failure I'm consistently getting is called a Type II, High Angle by Hilton Yam - 1911 Malfunctions (http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=51276#Post51276) The round is getting caught under the slide. At first the extractor was believed to the the problem, but obviously, wasn't the case. They polished the breachface, which seemed to help some but hasn't eliminated the problem.

I have tried his recommendations as far as my capabilities go. I'm wondering if the "slide-stroke" might be the problem. The malfunction almost always happens with the 1st or 2nd rounds of a full magazine.

I don't have a GS anywhere local, at least not one I feel that is competent. I have an 18.5# in it right now, I was thinking of buying a 20# just to see.

Well, if it is happening on the first or second round in the mag then it is not being caused by a weak mag spring...which was my first thought.

Is this a full size 1911 or a Commander (or smaller) 1911?
If it is not a full size, is it your first 1911 with a shorter slide/barrel?
The reason I ask is that shorter barrel 1911's, like the Commander, can be quite a bit more prone to this (from what I read & heard) and going to a heavier recoil spring might only make the problem worse.

How hot are you reloads? If they are on the low end, you could warm 'em up a bit.

pistolwrench
11-19-2010, 12:33
"Hmm looking at the handwriting on the engraving..I think I know where it came from.. send it back to where it came from.."

I need to get some metal stamps!

:shocked:

G36_Me
11-19-2010, 13:30
i just typed and then deleted all my comments...
good luck with your gun.

FLIPPER 348
11-19-2010, 15:23
if there is a buffer installed, ditch it

(and never put another one in)

HAIL CAESAR
11-19-2010, 17:28
Send her back!

GJ1981
11-19-2010, 17:37
Is this a full size 1911 or a Commander (or smaller) 1911?


How hot are you reloads? If they are on the low end, you could warm 'em up a bit.


It's a 5" model.

For my reloads, I haven't ran them through a chronograph but according to my Hornady manual, it should be around 825fps.

It's comparable to most target loads, works great in my M&P 45 and others. I haven't been using them lately to eliminate that variable, but they should work regardless.


if there is a buffer installed, ditch it

(and never put another one in)

No buffer, never cared for them.

As far as the breachface, I'll take a pic when I have time. During it's last trip they polished it. I know because the pistol had a "shake-n-bake" finish.

RonS
11-20-2010, 05:05
I would continue to work with the builder, no builder want's one of his guns out in the field gaining a bad reputation. If he can't get it to run and won't buy it back, then perhaps a trade arrangement would be less of a loss than just selling it, since you would probably disclose the issues to the buyer before selling it and as you say take a large loss.

Good luck.

Neal
11-20-2010, 07:35
It's a 5" model.

For my reloads, I haven't ran them through a chronograph but according to my Hornady manual, it should be around 825fps.

It's comparable to most target loads, works great in my M&P 45 and others. I haven't been using them lately to eliminate that variable, but they should work regardless.




No buffer, never cared for them.

As far as the breachface, I'll take a pic when I have time. During it's last trip they polished it. I know because the pistol had a "shake-n-bake" finish.

What kind of magazines are you using and have you tried several different mags that you know work 100% in other guns?

GJ1981
11-20-2010, 07:46
What kind of magazines are you using and have you tried several different mags that you know work 100% in other guns?

I have used the following magazines, which worked perfect in my other 1911's.

Factory "tuned" magazines that came with this pistol, I believe they are Metalform.

Wilson 47D's and ETM's - ETM's were new, 47's are in great shape.

CMC Power Mags - Used for a year or so, mainly as a carry mag so the springs are still good.

Tripp Cobras - Brand new

This is the final straw for this pistol. I'm just waiting to here back from them again on getting an RMA.

RonS
11-20-2010, 07:56
How does it run with Federal GM Hardball? Or even WWB?

What COAL are you using on your reloads? What bullet type?

Have you tried a Checkmate or Colt mag? NM, slow typer.

GJ1981
11-20-2010, 10:40
How does it run with Federal GM Hardball? Or even WWB?

What COAL are you using on your reloads? What bullet type?



I have my ammo specs listed on post #27 (http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16324469&postcount=27) ...I'm too lazy to retype.

Neal
11-20-2010, 14:20
I have used the following magazines, which worked perfect in my other 1911's.

Factory "tuned" magazines that came with this pistol, I believe they are Metalform.

Wilson 47D's and ETM's - ETM's were new, 47's are in great shape.

CMC Power Mags - Used for a year or so, mainly as a carry mag so the springs are still good.

Tripp Cobras - Brand new

This is the final straw for this pistol. I'm just waiting to here back from them again on getting an RMA.

OK, so its not the ammo and not the magazines, so it has to be something wrong with the gun. Please let us know the results after it goes back.

samuse
11-20-2010, 15:28
"Hmm looking at the handwriting on the engraving..I think I know where it came from.. send it back to where it came from.."

I need to get some metal stamps!

:shocked:


Yeah, I thought everybody engraved the numbers like that, unless he recognized the handwriting.

silversport
11-21-2010, 05:22
That would be a step in the wrong direction for the misfunction you describe.
Try a 16 lb spring like Mr Browning, Colt, and the Army used.

I'm with Jim...if you don't shoot +P or load your own mostly standard and shoot 230GR...I'd try an ISMI 16lb stock spring or Wolff (silicon wire for both)...good luck,

...oooops...didn't see there was another page of diagnoses...good luck, hope they get you back up and running soon...

Bill

FLIPPER 348
11-21-2010, 11:38
The drama about this pistol is a bit much. We are men on a gunboard for crap-sakes. The pistol does not work to your satisfaction. Demand your money back, keep it, have it fixed by someone else or trade it off.


1911s are not rocket science. They operate on a very simple concept and there are very few easily diagnosable reasons for poor operation.


........better yet spend $200 and find out what is wrong on your own. It will be the best $$$ you have ever spent for firearms as you will learn about the 1911 like no gunboard could ever teach you. Buy a 1911 build book and some basic tools. After swapping out all the springs, start with the barrel/link & bushing and find the problem. You will have a functional 1911 and much more in the end.



http://e-sarcoinc.com/451911autobuildkitlessframeandslide.aspx

GJ1981
11-21-2010, 12:10
I guess I’m not seeing it as “drama” like you do. I answered questions that were asked and have moved onto sending it back to the builder, pending THEM paying for the shipping. Nothing more, nothing less.

Seeing how many things have been checked/replaced on this pistol to date, I firmly believe there is something bigger wrong here – improper feedramp geometry, out of spec frame, or something that is beyond my ability with my limited tools.

Sure, I could swap the link myself, but why should I? I‘m a believer in making the person at fault fixing their mistakes. I have no problem working on my pistols by choice, this is about the principal.

As to swapping to a GI barrel…no comment.

FLIPPER 348
11-21-2010, 13:15
the GI barrel swap was to diagnose the problem


But hell, I run GI barrels in all of my builds for reliability, note of that so called 'match' silliness for me. I'll take one of my home builds up against any 'match' 1911 in a Frontsight course!!

mycar47562
12-07-2010, 05:43
any word yet?

GJ1981
12-07-2010, 06:41
any word yet?


On the lower lugs - I was told it looked like normal wear from disassembly/reassembly. I noticed something on a Larry Vickers class review that makes sense now. He would put a bevel on the guide rod, I assume to minimize contact with the lower lugs. My CQB's guide rod has this bevel where this pistol didn't, so I'm buying a new guide rod.

Not sure if this is the only issue here...


On functioning - They are willing to look the pistol over for a 3rd time, but I'm pretty much SOL on my reloads. I can understand that, but at the same time, my reloads work fine in my Wilson and other 1911's. Not sure what to think about it.

The only catch here is if it doesn't cause the same problem with their ammo, I get the full bill. I'm waiting to see what ammo they test with so I can pick some up. I've seen a few complaints about the newer Federal and UMC ammo, which I had a few FTF's with.

I'm busy preparing for finals and a few certifications tests, so this is honestly on the back burner.

glock2740
12-07-2010, 08:20
I don't think so...

http://www.shadowandact.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/homey_the_clown.jpg
Homie don't play dat! :rofl:On a serious note, I'd be sending it back for a third and LAST time, on his dime of course, with a serious conversation about a refund in full if not fixed completely. Then, if that failed, I would launch an all out verbal assault on his ass on every forum on the internet. That is complete and utter BS in my book. If he's gonna put his name on a highend 1911, then it better perform top notch and he damn well better back it up. Period. If you can't put out a product that's worth the money that's charged for it, then close shop and go do something else. The sad part is, that even if he does get it fixed, you'll probably always have a bad taste in your mouth about the gun and it will most likely piss you off every time you open the safe and see it. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

glock2740
12-07-2010, 08:26
The drama about this pistol is a bit much. We are men on a gunboard for crap-sakes. The pistol does not work to your satisfaction. Demand your money back, keep it, have it fixed by someone else or trade it off.


1911s are not rocket science. They operate on a very simple concept and there are very few easily diagnosable reasons for poor operation.


........better yet spend $200 and find out what is wrong on your own. It will be the best $$$ you have ever spent for firearms as you will learn about the 1911 like no gunboard could ever teach you. Buy a 1911 build book and some basic tools. After swapping out all the springs, start with the barrel/link & bushing and find the problem. You will have a functional 1911 and much more in the end.



http://e-sarcoinc.com/451911autobuildkitlessframeandslide.aspx
WTF are you talking about? The man spent some serious money on a gun that was supposed to perform as it should. You want HIM to buy a book and trouble shoot it himself? Seriously? So, if you bought a new Corvette and it wouldn't run, you're saying that it's not up to Chevrolet to correct it, you should just go down to Autozone and buy a fix it book and figure it out yourself? Give me a ****ing break.

MD357
12-07-2010, 09:08
WTF are you talking about? The man spent some serious money on a gun that was supposed to perform as it should. You want HIM to buy a book and trouble shoot it himself? Seriously? So, if you bought a new Corvette and it wouldn't run, you're saying that it's not up to Chevrolet to correct it, you should just go down to Autozone and buy a fix it book and figure it out yourself? Give me a ****ing break.


.... well... he's also suggesting to buy a book and fix it with KIA parts. :supergrin: Those Sarco kits are junk.

Hokie1911
12-07-2010, 10:29
.... well... he's also suggesting to buy a book and fix it with KIA parts. :supergrin: Those Sarco kits are junk.

:laughing:

mesteve2
12-07-2010, 11:01
Rock Island Armory 1911's work from the first shot until you run out of ammo to feed them.

GeorgiaRedfish
12-07-2010, 11:25
Rock Island Armory 1911's work from the first shot until you run out of ammo to feed them.
Mine didn't until Arnel at RIA polished the feed ramp, and throated the barrel (i think on the last one)

mycar47562
12-10-2010, 05:48
Sounds like he is just hiding behind ammo,... Or you just have really bad luck with ammo

GJ1981
12-10-2010, 06:57
Sounds like he is just hiding behind ammo,... Or you just have really bad luck with ammo

While my luck lately is pathetic, I'm sure it's not the case here. From my reloads to factory, I haven't had any problems with my other 1911's.

I'm still weighing my options on this pistol, I've just lost so much faith in this pistol I'm not sure I could ever trust it with my life. The shop will look it over again, and fix anything IF it has the same problem with their ammo.

I've seen this types of issue unfold before, pistol gets sent in, builder doesn't have issues (or claims they don't) with their ammo, pistol gets back to owner and still has a problem.

I'm lost on why this pistol won't run but every other 1911 I have has not had any problems with my ammo and hasn't had any issues with factory ammo to date. This is what irritates me.

Oh well, like I said, this is on the back burner for now.

Rinspeed
12-10-2010, 07:50
I'm lost on why this pistol won't run but every other 1911 I have has not had any problems with my ammo and hasn't had any issues with factory ammo to date. This is what irritates me.



To me that suggests the chamber is on the tight side.

GJ1981
12-10-2010, 08:05
To me that suggests the chamber is on the tight side.

I've thought the same, but they've had it in twice so I don't know how they could have missed it.

I was testing a used casing, don't know if it's really relevant, between this pistol and my CQB. Both chambered the empty but on this pistol I could feel significantly more resistance when extracting whereas the CQB was smooth as can be. I do test my ammo with a case gauge, FWIW.

This would lead me to believe the barrel could be the culprit, but as I said, I not sure if basing this off an empty really says much.

Hokie1911
12-10-2010, 08:36
Sounds like if you decide to just throw in the towel, there is a line of guys here ready to take it off your hands. Hope you get it taken care of, but if not, you know it will find a good home.

GJ1981
12-10-2010, 08:58
Sounds like if you decide to just throw in the towel, there is a line of guys here ready to take it off your hands. Hope you get it taken care of, but if not, you know it will find a good home.

Yeah, I have several buyers lined up if it comes to that. At the same time, I'm not sure I'm willing to sell it for that much of a loss.

I'm the type of person who'd rather let it sit as a painful reminder that things are not always what they once were rather than giving someone the deal of the year.

I dunno...it seems like it should be a simple decision. Maybe I'll flip a coin next year.

lawdog734
12-10-2010, 09:17
my kimber raptor gave me problems, I took it to a local guy who fixed it, but I sold it anyway because of no faith. I feel for you.

FLIPPER 348
12-10-2010, 20:34
.... well... he's also suggesting to buy a book and fix it with KIA parts. :supergrin: Those Sarco kits are junk.


well duh, the sacro parts kit is a cheap way for him to learn about 1911s. He can then replace the cheap perts with quality gear. The benefit is working with the cheaper parts before working with the more expensive ones.

But it seems he is going to be a drama queen about this weapon>>

"I'm the type of person who'd rather let it sit as a painful reminder that things are not always what they once were rather than giving someone the deal of the year."

GJ1981
12-10-2010, 20:44
But it seems he is going to be a drama queen about this weapon>>

"I'm the type of person who'd rather let it sit as a painful reminder that things are not always what they once were rather than giving someone the deal of the year."

And this affects you how?

I simply said I will not let those who are so willing to jump at the chance to buy this, should I make that decision, make off with a bargain price at my expense.

I guess that concept is too complicated for some to figure out.

BTW - I get learning to fit on cheaper parts, but how does putting parts that I have read numerous reports of being out of spec/ "questionable" quality going to help me here?

Posts #5, 6, and 13 have some value - http://forum.1911forum.com/showthread.php?p=1818369

kirgi08
12-10-2010, 22:20
Some have a conceptual malaise.'08.