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pleaforwar
12-31-2010, 21:19
Disclaimer**: I am by no means an expert with painting AR's. I do, however, have some experience with the application of paint on rifles and figured I can help those who have less experience than I do. If you have anything productive to add to this thread, please feel free to do so.

Members of GlockTalk:
Over the years I have had a real attraction to rifles that blend in with their environment. I have owned and shot AR's for a couple of years now, but until recently never considered painting one like the rifles I have always been attracted to.

It isn't a difficult task to perform by any means. If anything it's the anxiety of painting a modestly expensive object that makes the task difficult.

First you need to get over the anxiety. Spray paint is by no means permanent nor difficult.

Second, you need to figure out what type of paint matches your surroundings. Desert colors are not the best idea for humid and temperate climates, nor is an arctic pattern great for arid areas like my own. In simple terms, if you live in a place like Maryland or Florida, don't use my patterns because they won't work as well for you. Also, you should pick paints that contrast well and distort the lines of the rifle. My first paint job utilized khaki, brown, and green. While these paints made a pattern that was nice up-close, the brown shading took over at farther distances and made the rifle appear brown rather than camouflaged. It's better than black, but does not effectively camouflage to the full potential.

Third, you need to pick the paint. People with much more experience than I have tend to use quality paint like Aervoe. I have chosen Krylon, as it is easily found and I have seen decent patterns created with it. If you can wait, get the Aervoe. If you are impartial or want to experiment, get the Krylon.

Now you need to setup for the process of painting the rifle.

First you will need to prep the AR with an alcohol pad. Make sure to clean off any dust, sand, grit, etc on the outside of the AR. Then you need to tape off anything that needs to be protected from the paint (i.e. optics, flashlight, magwell). Last, get a paper towel and roll it to where it fits through the muzzle device.
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/paint-setup.jpg

Then you need to give the rifle a good base coat. I use Krylon khaki for my base coat. Give a good eight inches of distance between the can and the rifle. Use swift movements and make sure to cover all the crooks and crannies of the AR. Once finished allow to dry for 10-15 minutes and then flip and repeat.

Base coat:
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/first-coat.jpg

Now comes the part where you create the pattern. There are several ways you can create a pattern, too include camo netting, leaves, grass, cardboard, etc. I have used two techniques, one that used thin strips of grass and one that uses leaves. I have no photos of using the grass but I do have one for the leaf application.

Stencil:
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/stencil.jpg

After spraying the portion not covered by leaves allow the paint to dry for 10-15 minutes.

After with leaf pattern:
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/after.jpg

After with grass pattern:

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/paint1.jpg

Following are some photos of what both patterns look like in my environment.

Leaf pattern in the environment:
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/brush.jpg

pleaforwar
12-31-2010, 21:20
continued....

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/brush2.jpg

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/brush3.jpg

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/brush3-1.jpg

Grass pattern in the environment:
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/painttree2.jpg

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/paintbrush3.jpg

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/paintbrush4.jpg


Please feel free to post your thoughts and/or paint applications as well.

Cheers,
Dan

1985 4Runner
12-31-2010, 21:24
Tagged, and Semper Fi!

RMTactical
12-31-2010, 21:28
Excellent post. Thanks for sharing that.

NeverMore1701
12-31-2010, 22:31
Thanks, I've been waiting :supergrin:

I think I'm going to try it on my Noveske soon.

pleaforwar
12-31-2010, 22:41
Thanks, I've been waiting :supergrin:

I think I'm going to try it on my Noveske soon.

I promised you I would make one :supergrin:.

Sorry it took a while, I just wanted to put some decent effort into it.

lawman800
12-31-2010, 23:28
You also sprayed the FDE MIAD?

pleaforwar
12-31-2010, 23:39
You also sprayed the FDE MIAD?

It is a Tango Down Battlegrip, and yes, I did paint it. The TD color does not match any of the other colors I use and I wanted the grip to match the colors of the rest of the rifle.

billyblooshoes
01-01-2011, 12:12
great post. thanks. i have painted my grip and stock and XMT rail panel covers with coyote aluma-hyde, but have always wondered if anything/everything needed to be stripped to paint a whole rifle at once. have you ever had any issues with anything mechanical on the rifle sticking at all, like the mag release, knobs on your optic, flip up irons, etc?

pleaforwar
01-01-2011, 12:19
have you ever had any issues with anything mechanical on the rifle sticking at all, like the mag release, knobs on your optic, flip up irons, etc?

Not to any extent that renders the part inoperable. The mag release sticks at first, but stops after some time.

NeverMore1701
01-01-2011, 12:28
Well I'm going to pick up some Krylon camo paints at walmart today, next time we have a still day I'm gonna go for it! I'm a little nervous about painting a $1k+ rifle, but I don't ever intend to sell it, and I figure I can just strip and re-paint if it doesn't turn out well :supergrin:

pleaforwar
01-01-2011, 12:50
Well I'm going to pick up some Krylon camo paints at walmart today, next time we have a still day I'm gonna go for it! I'm a little nervous about painting a $1k+ rifle, but I don't ever intend to sell it, and I figure I can just strip and re-paint if it doesn't turn out well :supergrin:

Best of luck Brother. Don't forget the mags :supergrin:

B.Reid
01-01-2011, 13:24
How durable is that finish?

faawrenchbndr
01-01-2011, 13:49
Pleaforwar,

Thanks for this,.......I just may get the nards to do it.

TedG
01-01-2011, 13:54
I hope everybody posts photos of the their finished work. Start to Finish progress photos would really be interesting. Good luck to everyone.

pleaforwar
01-01-2011, 14:04
How durable is that finish?

Krylon will wear with time, especially at contact points. Following are some photos of my first AR that was painted (job was done by another individual).

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/old.jpg

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/old2.jpg

http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/old3.jpg

Use of FDE, FG, etc furniture will help mitigate the effect of the wear.

If you are looking for a camo job that is aesthetically pleasing (not saying you are) I recommend cerakote or duracoat. My style of camo is purely functional and nothing else.

Keep in mind, Aervoe gets great reviews for its ability to last for a long time. If you are looking for something tougher I would go that route.

FAA- Thanks for the compliment. I'm sure you will do it in time.

Ted- That is definitely part of the intent of this thread. I know someone here has done a better job than I have, I would love to see their process.

1985 4Runner
01-01-2011, 15:42
I am definitely going to paint my AK build when finished.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5002/5308760806_623081bacb_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55304595@N07/5308760806/)
[/url][url=http://www.flickr.com/people/55304595@N07/] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55304595@N07/5308760806/)

G27RR
01-01-2011, 17:13
I did a Rem 700 hunting rifle freehand by holding objects over the rifle in various spots, shooting the paint, and changing colors, spots, and objects to get the desired effect.

Used some textured paint to add a little grip to the rifle. Add a coat or two of matte clearcoat at the end to take the sheen off if you aren't using matte paint.

Taped off the action and hit a base coat.
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/PaintingRem7007mmRM7.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/PaintingRem7007mmRM2.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/PaintingRem7007mmRM14.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/Remington700BDL7mmRemMagscopedcloseuprt.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/Remington700BDL7mmRemMag6.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/Remington700BDL7mmRemMagscopedrt.jpg

I left the tip of the barrel unpainted in case I thread it later on, and the scope was just for completed looks for the picture. I am replacing it with something else at some point.

G27RR
01-01-2011, 17:17
I wanted this all in one post but too many pictures I guess. I don't have any in progress shots of the AR I did, but here's the final product.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/BushmasterAR15camo1.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n634/G27RR/BushmasterAR15camo4.jpg

Did the Bushmaster first as I figured it was my least expensive AR. Planning to do another AR or two at some point with a little more time put into it. It's got the cheap centerpoint scope off the Rem700 in the pictures above in case it had to be sacrificed. Turns out it's no big deal like the OP said.

trlcavscout
01-02-2011, 01:05
Heres my current Colt in Khaki clothes, these are extra accesories I painted for coyote hunting. I havent been able to bring my self to paint an AR yet. I have painted a lot of bolt guns and even handguns useing krylon camo or rustoleum textured paint then clear coating over it and they hold up pretty good. I have a new set of HG's on order, I may spray them and go with it, or spray the whole rifle? I think it looks cool 2 tone though. Thats all I do is wipe with alcohol, paint 2 coats, clear and install, or camo like the OP on the bolts I have done.


http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b436/trlcavscout/khaki.jpg


Here is my previous AR, a guy in CO camod before I had it (some on here may recognize). It looked good.

http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/b436/trlcavscout/ar.jpg

Andrewsky
01-02-2011, 01:30
Nice.

Here's one I did. Krylon Khaki and Brown. I used a single leaf I found in my back yard. Also I hung the furniture from a tree in the yard. I wouldn't do it any other way. Painting a rifle while it's laying down is a bad idea.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/Andrewsky89/014.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/Andrewsky89/015.jpg

pleaforwar
01-02-2011, 02:00
Painting a rifle while it's laying down is a bad idea.


If you are going to say the method I use is a "bad idea", do me a favor and say why it is a bad idea.

Keep in mind, I personally have a rifle that was painted using the hanging method and two that have used the method in this thread. I see no negligible difference between the texture and/or quality of paint.

Broncbuster
01-02-2011, 08:48
Nice.

Here's one I did. Krylon Khaki and Brown. I used a single leaf I found in my back yard. Also I hung the furniture from a tree in the yard. I wouldn't do it any other way. Painting a rifle while it's laying down is a bad idea.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/Andrewsky89/014.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb30/Andrewsky89/015.jpg


Nice looking rifle!!

RMTactical
01-02-2011, 11:23
Very nice.

faawrenchbndr
01-02-2011, 12:11
Nice clean job, but I'm not a fan of the "tiger stripe" pattern.

ottomatic
01-02-2011, 18:23
Two things I have wondered about before I start:
1. Optics... what (besides the glass, duh!) do you mask.
2. a) If you do Krylon and change your mind, how do you get it off?
b)If removing paint involves solvents, what about "plastics" such as grips?

BTW, good post. Thanks!

pleaforwar
01-02-2011, 21:21
Two things I have wondered about before I start:
1. Optics... what (besides the glass, duh!) do you mask.
2. a) If you do Krylon and change your mind, how do you get it off?
b)If removing paint involves solvents, what about "plastics" such as grips?

BTW, good post. Thanks!

1) Glass was it for me. All knobs are working fine.
2&3) Never changed my mind, I have always been happy with the result. I have seen brake cleaner recommended for removal (spray on metal, spray on rag for polymer). I can't comment on this method, as I said before I have no experience with this.

Bushflyr
01-02-2011, 22:19
My totallynotheeasywaypitaspray.

Base coat.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/TheBrownParts.jpg

And some mask.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/BrowmRifle.jpg

Shooting the green.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/GreenRifle.jpg

Final coat.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/TanRifle.jpg

Peeling the stencils.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/IMG_3726.jpg

Final product.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/IMG_3744.jpg

trlcavscout
01-03-2011, 12:23
My totallynotheeasywaypitaspray.

Base coat.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/TheBrownParts.jpg

And some mask.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/BrowmRifle.jpg

Shooting the green.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/GreenRifle.jpg

Final coat.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/TanRifle.jpg

Peeling the stencils.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/IMG_3726.jpg

Final product.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/IMG_3744.jpg


Looks good! Did you spray on a clear coat to protect it?

faawrenchbndr
01-03-2011, 13:22
Front sight is on backwards. :dunno:

MisterPX
01-03-2011, 13:56
By mounting FS backwards, you gain another 1/2-3/4" of distance, plus, FSP doesn't care which way it's pointing. ;)

RMTactical
01-03-2011, 14:30
Bushflyr, that is a great looking job right there.

pleaforwar
01-03-2011, 14:46
Gents, let's keep the comments in line with the purpose of the thread please.

Thanks,
Dan

faawrenchbndr
01-03-2011, 14:47
Bushflyr,

Is that paint or DuraCoat?
Did you get the decals from Lauer?

Looks darn good,.......especially the Ace stock with the VTAC

NeverMore1701
01-03-2011, 15:07
My totallynotheeasywaypitaspray.

Base coat.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/TheBrownParts.jpg

And some mask.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/BrowmRifle.jpg

Shooting the green.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/GreenRifle.jpg

Final coat.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/TanRifle.jpg

Peeling the stencils.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/IMG_3726.jpg

Final product.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/bushflyr/ARBuild/IMG_3744.jpg


Looks DAMN good, but way too much work for me!

MisterPX
01-03-2011, 19:12
If you krylon, you can also use a matte clearcoat to improve abrasion resistance. Do note, that even matte clearcoat takes away some of the flatness of the paint, but not to a point where it's siny.

trlcavscout
01-04-2011, 17:32
So for you that have painted AR's with Krylon camo etc, how does it hold up to the oil. I have painted bolt guns with good success and wear after clear coating, but I never got oil on the paint. I am really considering painting my AR but dont want to if the oil is just gonna take it off.

MisterPX
01-04-2011, 17:34
My clearcoated krylon held up fine to oil, but still abrades away at contact areas, like grip and cheek.

Bushflyr
01-04-2011, 19:01
It's Duracote. No clear over it. It's a user so I don't care if it gets worn.

I got the stencils from Bulldogarms.com (http://www.bulldogarms.com/).

Yes, I realize the front BUIS is "backwards" but it gains me some sight radius, as was pointed out. Also, the V-tac is a little odd in that the top rail stops short of the front of the tube.

No I won't be doing one like this again. It was a royal PITA, I'm STILL finding little square stencils that I missed over the past couple years. I wanted to do it just because I could. Now that I've ticked that box I'll be doing it the easy way next time. :supergrin:

I've done Krylon before, the one drawback I found was that it got sticky where I got CLP on it and never did resolidify. It didn't affect how it shot, but was kind of irritating.

Dirknar
01-04-2011, 19:20
I painted a rifle once with krylon and will never do it again.. The first time any cleaning products, including CLP touched it the paint turned into a sticky stinky mess.. It was LAME>.

M1A Shooter
01-04-2011, 21:11
ive painted my bolt gun and shotgun but its always been flat od green.

my ar will be painted as soon as i can find some decent netting. i like the net pattern.

pleaforwar
01-04-2011, 21:56
Guess I have another reason for why I never use CLP.

lawman800
01-05-2011, 02:10
I have seen brake cleaner recommended for removal (spray on metal, spray on rag for polymer). I can't comment on this method, as I said before I have no experience with this.

Brake cleaner worked too well... I used it to clean my milsurp M44 Mosin Nagant as I heard break cleaner worked well on Cosmoline.

I hung up my rifle, shot it with brake cleaner... saw a lot of brown coming off... and thought, man, that's a lot of cosmoline... then I realized it was the lacquer coming off the wood stock!

The rifle was clean though, not a trace of Cosmoline to be found anywhere in the metal afterwards... but I did have to refinish the wooden stock, which is fine. I got to fine sand it and raise some cartouches and re-stain the wood a nice medium red Cherry and Walnut which actually came out a nice rich Teak for some reason. It sure looked better than before with the stock Russian wooden finish.

humanguerrilla
01-05-2011, 06:18
I painted a rifle once with krylon and will never do it again.. The first time any cleaning products, including CLP touched it the paint turned into a sticky stinky mess.. It was LAME>.

Brownells Clear matte epoxy Acra coat over Krylon= no problem with cleaners or clp for me.

M1A Shooter
01-05-2011, 07:33
Guess I have another reason for why I never use CLP.

what do you use that doesnt affect the krylon?

NeverMore1701
01-05-2011, 07:35
My guess would be Slip2000.

pleaforwar
01-05-2011, 09:33
what do you use that doesnt affect the krylon?

I come from the school of "clean every few thousand rounds" rather than the school of "complete dis-assembly and clean after every time at the range". I am more prone to wipe down the BCG and bore-snake the barrel a couple times than anything more. As you can imagine the paint is far from being in danger from my cleaning approach.

Nevermore is correct, I prefer Slip or MPro7 for cleaning my rifles.

M1A Shooter
01-05-2011, 19:45
ahh, ok. i am pretty much the same. just curious if you were using militech or something now. i do use clp but my rifle doesnt need to be dripping wet to run.

jdavionic
01-05-2011, 20:00
Very nice thread! I've used Norrells moly resin. Nothing fancy though, just black...okay, Evil Black :supergrin:

On the Norrells, it's a bit more involved since I heated the parts before applying it, and then baked it on for an hour after application.

Dirknar
01-06-2011, 15:34
I come from the school of "clean every few thousand rounds" rather than the school of "complete dis-assembly and clean after every time at the range". I am more prone to wipe down the BCG and bore-snake the barrel a couple times than anything more. As you can imagine the paint is far from being in danger from my cleaning approach.

Nevermore is correct, I prefer Slip or MPro7 for cleaning my rifles.

I agree for chrome lined AR's but for more accurate AR setups and accurate bolt action rifles, I clean every 1-200 rnds or whenever accuracy falls off..

Thanks for the tip on Epoxy clear coat in the above posts..

MNOD Glocker
01-09-2011, 07:42
http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx147/MNOD108/Guns/101_0204.jpg

I realize this is not an AR, but this thread got me thinking about painting my coyote rifle. I taped the action, trigger guard and trigger, scope ends, and the grip inserts on the rifle, and I covered the muzzle with a piece of tape. I painted one coat of black krylon, let it dry, used my home made stencils (strips of masking tape cut into blades of grass in a sense), painted two coats of white paint, and then removed the stencils. Maybe not my best work but I am happy with it. As someone else pointed out, its made to be functional, not a safe queen.

NeverMore1701
01-09-2011, 09:52
http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx147/MNOD108/Guns/101_0204.jpg

I realize this is not an AR, but this thread got me thinking about painting my coyote rifle. I taped the action, trigger guard and trigger, scope ends, and the grip inserts on the rifle, and I covered the muzzle with a piece of tape. I painted one coat of black krylon, let it dry, used my home made stencils (strips of masking tape cut into blades of grass in a sense), painted two coats of white paint, and then removed the stencils. Maybe not my best work but I am happy with it. As someone else pointed out, its made to be functional, not a safe queen.

:cool:

Beeman
01-09-2011, 20:58
Here's my newest .204 Ruger AR I built.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/OhioBeekeeper/100_0693.jpg

NeverMore1701
01-09-2011, 21:26
Here's my newest .204 Ruger AR I built.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/OhioBeekeeper/100_0693.jpg

Looks good, how did you paint it?

Still waiting for some decent painting weather here, have the Krylon and cardboard sitting in the garage, waiting. Figure I'll put another coat on my bumper while I'm at it, it's pretty scratched up.

Beeman
01-09-2011, 21:33
I put a rope through the rear sling mount, hung it from a tree and started painting. I did the tan base first, then olive drab, and then added some dark brown. I used Krylon, and just started spraying spots, and streaks on the gun.

Tucson_1
01-09-2011, 21:54
http://pleaforwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/painttree2.jpg








I recognize the Sonoran desert. You here in Tucson by any chance?

No-Limit
01-09-2011, 22:03
Let's see if I did this right. Here's a couple pictures of a Savage 110 I painted in a desert digital camo motif. If the pics don't show up, give me a min. I did a write-up of the process on another forum, so if anyone is interested...just let me know and I will add it here too. If anyone wants to make those photos appear bigger, feel free...I just am not familiar w/ the URL way of adding photos.

pleaforwar
01-09-2011, 22:04
I recognize the Sonoran desert. You here in Tucson by any chance?

The saguaro cacti gave it away, didn't they? :supergrin:

The photos were actually taken near the town of Carefree.

pleaforwar
01-09-2011, 22:05
so if anyone is interested...just let me know and I will add it here too.
That's the purpose of the thread Bud! Please enlighten us on what did/didn't work for you. :cool:

No-Limit
01-09-2011, 22:21
You asked for it...here ya go:

I decided to give my Savage 110 30.06 a desert colored digital camo transformation. I did a lot of research and watched some youtube clips...printed out some digital camo stencils and went to town. I went ahead and painted the scope too (cheap Simmons scope that came with the rifle). Also included a pic of the gun with my Nikon Monarch 3-9x40 w/ Talley Lightweight rings.

The pictures make it look a lot lighter than it actually is. The lightest color (looks white in pics) is actually desert sand. Then the next darker is a tan color, then the darkest is a dark brown. All are ultra-flat camouflage paints...and then I gave it a couple coats of flat clear to protect it.

I used Aervo Military Digital Pattern Camo Paint in Desert Sand as the base color. Zynolyte also makes a Camo Paint, which is what I used for the other two colors. The light brown is Zynolyte Sand and the darker color is Zynolyte Earth Brown. I clear coated everything with Valspar Clear Flat enamel. You definitely want to use a flat paint, which are hard to find in different colors (from a rattle can) unless you get the "camo" paint. I actually paid way too much for the Aervo because I couldn't find a flat rattle can desert sand color anywhere around here...so I had to order it...shipping and all came to around $16 for one can! I had a vision in mind and I was willing to pay that to do it right.

First, of course, you completely disassemble the gun...applying tape everywhere you don't want painted. Cotton balls work well stuffed into both ends of the barrel and the inside of the stock.

The way I did the stencils: I found some free stencils online (I can PM you the website) and printed them out. Then I covered a sheet of wax paper with blue painters tape, overlapping each strip by 1/16 inch. Then you secure your stencil to the painters tape and cut through everything with a box cutter/exact-o knife. Then peel off the wax paper and you have an adhesive stencil to lay on the gun. These are the male stencils. You paint the gun the lightest color first, then lay on a layer of your adhesive male stencil, then spray the next color, lay on another layer of stencils, then spray the last color (darkest color). After that, you carefully peel off all the layers and then you can go back and use the female stencils (which were made when you pulled the male stencils off of the wax paper) to add to any areas that you want (this is what gives it a true digital camo look). Of course you have to be really careful to cover the rest of the gun with plastic or paper during this process so you don't have any problems with over-spray.

One of the toughest parts was visualizing what you wanted the final product to look like because you have to work backwards with the paint colors. The lightest color goes on first, then the next darker, then the darkest. The reason I say it's backwards is because you cover up wherever you want that particular color to stay with the male stencil, then spray over top of it as opposed to using a female stencil to spray the color you want in the area you want. Make sense?

You wouldn't believe it, but removing the painters tape from the wax paper was the most time consuming and tedious part of the job. Separating the two layers without ripping the little "arms" of the painters tape that you created when you cut out the stencil is actually quite difficult. Also, cutting out the stencils is pretty tedious and your fingers will hurt for a week. Your vision will also suffer from staring at digital camo for 3 days straight.

But, other than the onset of arthritis and going blind...no negative side effects and you come out with a really cool looking custom paint job that you have the satisfaction of knowing you did yourself.

I hope all of that made sense, but if not...feel free to ask more questions and I'd be glad to help you out.

All in all, I had over 20+ hours in the paint job. I sold the rifle a few months back for $300 and I've regretted it ever since!

JTLIII
01-12-2011, 07:58
Not an AR but here is my AK I gave some color. My environment is swampland, so I wanted to go for a moldy green look. Took about 5 minutes to do and 8 months later is still holding up well

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v217/punkrockpoet/DSC03530.jpg

I still plan to do a quick spray on each side to put a small amount of brown to further help the swamp camo.

Andrewsky
01-12-2011, 20:30
If you are going to say the method I use is a "bad idea", do me a favor and say why it is a bad idea.

Keep in mind, I personally have a rifle that was painted using the hanging method and two that have used the method in this thread. I see no negligible difference between the texture and/or quality of paint.

Texture and quality of paint won't be affected. But it's easier to spray while holding the can vertically. Also you don't have to wait for one side to dry before you do the other side.