80% Lower Receivers? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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M1A Shooter
02-13-2011, 21:39
anyone here mill there own lowers from 80% lowers? i have been looking into this after not being able tot find a source for customs and found out today that my buddy has a milling machine in his garage. talked to him about the idea and hes going to split the cost of the jig and we will machine a couple together.

right now im looking at www.tacticalmachining.com (http://www.tacticalmachining.com) but would like to hear more ideas and see some pics from others who may have done this in the past.

thanks.

DD26
02-13-2011, 21:46
Sorry, I have no info to offer, but I looked at the link..........

For what they're charging for 80% lowers, you can get a 100% lower!:faint:


For some reason, I thought 80% lowers were dirt cheap.:dunno:

BuffaloXJ
02-13-2011, 21:46
Very interesting! I've never heard of such a thing. I've got a full machine shop at my work and am allowed to use them on the weekends. This would be kind of cool to look more into.

Any idea how much machining needs to be done to the lowers to make them ready? Looks like the spot needs to be milled out for the trigger control group. Is that all?

mstennes
02-13-2011, 22:02
Sorry, I have no info to offer, but I looked at the link..........

For what they're charging for 80% lowers, you can get a 100% lower!:faint:


For some reason, I thought 80% lowers were dirt cheap.:dunno:

A friend of mine has a amazing CNC machine shop, he builds stuff for Boeing, he did a couple, took forever setting up the computer, than when it was all done you still have to andonize them, he said hell will buy finished ones from here on in, cost allot more than he thought, the only advantage is your own roll mark, but Tom Sawyer will do custom ones so why bother?
ETA, spelling and add that Tom Sawyer sold his business to these guys http://www.orion-arms.com/gun-engraving/custom-firearm-engraving.html

DD26
02-13-2011, 22:05
Very interesting! I've never heard of such a thing. I've got a full machine shop at my work and am allowed to use them on the weekends. This would be kind of cool to look more into.

Any idea how much machining needs to be done to the lowers to make them ready? Looks like the spot needs to be milled out for the trigger control group. Is that all?

According to one thread on that website's forum...

Drill selector hole
Drill trigger pin hole
Drill hammer pin hole
Mill fire control pocket

...is what needs to be done by the end user. Also, in that same thread, someone said that there's usually even more that needs to be done when using other companies' 80% lowers. So this Tactical Machining place sounds like your best bet.

DD26
02-13-2011, 22:08
A friend of mine has a amazing CNC machine shot builds stuff for Boeing, he did a couple, took forever setting up the computer, than when it was all done you still have to andonize them, he said hell will buy finished ones from here on in, cost allot more than he thought, the only advantage is your own roll mark, but Tom Sawyer will do custom ones so why bother?

That's what I'm saying. You can't even sell any of the lowers that you make, either. But to each his own, I guess.

bel970
02-13-2011, 22:10
models are easy enough to come up with but when it comes to raw forgings and 80%. the machining often costs more than the material especially when your trying to bury costs of any changes you want (drafting/engineering), programing and setups in just a few units, kick out 150 + units and it's not so bad, or do it on your own time if you have the ability and access so your not billed for it. If your starting from scratch you could consider just going billet.

the common issues are cutting the corners in the mag well, edm is nice, broaching works, milling works but have to watch the radius in the corners causing to much slop and thinning the walls.

DD26
02-13-2011, 22:12
kick out 150 + units and it's not so bad

No matter how many you make, it's never going to be cost-efficient. You can only keep them for personal use, unless you have a whatever FFL type is needed to manufacture/sell them.

Reswob
02-13-2011, 22:35
That's what I'm saying. You can't even sell any of the lowers that you make, either. But to each his own, I guess.

That's not true. You can't make them with the intent to turn around and sell them, but if you ever decide you want to sell them one day you can.

M1A Shooter
02-13-2011, 22:38
through the site i mentioned, i can get 6 of them and the jig for 95 each. that isnt too bad compared to stripped lowers i see locally. i know they can be had cheaper but this also allows me to customise them as i see fit. the few of these i do will definately never leave me.

as far as anodizing goes, i am planning on a complete duracoat project so i dont see this as anecessary step.

DD26
02-14-2011, 01:58
That's not true. You can't make them with the intent to turn around and sell them, but if you ever decide you want to sell them one day you can.

You're right, I had my info mixed up.

I was thinking about how you don't have to put a serial # on it, if you don't want to. But if you ever sell it, you have to put a serial on it.

crazymoose
02-14-2011, 02:21
as far as anodizing goes, i am planning on a complete duracoat project so i dont see this as anecessary step.

The main purpose of the anodization is for surface toughness and wear resistance, not corrosion resistance. I don't know what kind of wear resistance duracoat offers, but I have a suspicion that it's not up to the mil-spec anodizing standard. If this is the case, you could very quickly find your lowers with accelerated wear in areas like the takedown pins and fire control group pins.

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mstennes
02-14-2011, 09:48
The main purpose of the anodization is for surface toughness and wear resistance, not corrosion resistance. I don't know what kind of wear resistance duracoat offers, but I have a suspicion that it's not up to the mil-spec anodizing standard. If this is the case, you could very quickly find your lowers with accelerated wear in areas like the takedown pins and fire control group pins.

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Zero, stuff scratched off way to easy, I would not use it, why do you think everyone andonizes the aluminum parts?

cyrsequipment
02-14-2011, 11:04
The main purpose of the anodization is for surface toughness and wear resistance, not corrosion resistance. I don't know what kind of wear resistance duracoat offers, but I have a suspicion that it's not up to the mil-spec anodizing standard. If this is the case, you could very quickly find your lowers with accelerated wear in areas like the takedown pins and fire control group pins.

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Duracoat is pretty tough, BUT if the substrate starts to come apart, then your duracoat will peel off.

Just think about oxidized aluminum, you get powder sluffing off it all the time, imagine that is what the coating is attached to and you'll see the problem.

mstennes
02-14-2011, 14:46
Duracoat is pretty tough, BUT if the substrate starts to come apart, then your duracoat will peel off.

Just think about oxidized aluminum, you get powder sluffing off it all the time, imagine that is what the coating is attached to and you'll see the problem.
Its not desinged for constant abrasion

cyrsequipment
02-14-2011, 15:38
Its not desinged for constant abrasion

Is there anything that is?

Any coating, or finish or anything else will rub off under constant abrasion. My point was, that duracoat is pretty tough, but if you put it over unanodized aluminum (I spelled thta poorly I think) then it will sluff off.

mstennes
02-14-2011, 15:45
Is there anything that is?

Any coating, or finish or anything else will rub off under constant abrasion. My point was, that duracoat is pretty tough, but if you put it over unanodized aluminum (I spelled thta poorly I think) then it will sluff off.

Thats my point if you dont anodize the recievers, their going to wear right out. Something else to think about here, doing that in the trigger, safety, and hammer pin holes probably will keep the pins from fitting.

cyrsequipment
02-14-2011, 17:54
Thats my point if you dont anodize the recievers, their going to wear right out.

Um, so, why are you arguing with me then? I said it had to go over anodized...

M1A Shooter
02-14-2011, 22:10
didnt realize the anodizing had as much to do with the wear resistance, just overlooked it i guess. what about the other finishes like cerakote? is there any bake on finish that would be similar? powdercoating? getting preanodized lowers is only $10 more each.

also, i know the interior of them once they are milled doesnt seem tobe anodized and there is no sluffing of the metal inside the trigger group housing. i may be wrong but want to lean before i drop several hundred bucks into a few lowers.

bel970
02-14-2011, 22:13
No matter how many you make, it's never going to be cost-efficient. You can only keep them for personal use, unless you have a whatever FFL type is needed to manufacture/sell them.

you kinda missed the point. I spend the 8+ hours a day that aren't mine building engineering and quote masters for among other things a fabrication and machine shop. there are fixed costs that in their whole are not applied per unit; such as any changes to the solid works model, programing and machine setups. those fixed costs if applied to a single unit make for a very expensive lower, spread them across more units and costs get more affordable. unless your doing a decent number of units you'll be in to it more than buying one. and that's before you've had it anodized at which point your back to the setup charges again unless you've got a buddy that will slip it in with a batch of whatever happens to be running.

DD26
02-14-2011, 22:26
you kinda missed the point. I spend the 8+ hours a day that aren't mine building engineering and quote masters for among other things a fabrication and machine shop. there are fixed costs that in their whole are not applied per unit; such as any changes to the solid works model, programing and machine setups. those fixed costs if applied to a single unit make for a very expensive lower, spread them across more units and costs get more affordable. unless your doing a decent number of units you'll be in to it more than buying one. and that's before you've had it anodized at which point your back to the setup charges again unless you've got a buddy that will slip it in with a batch of whatever happens to be running.

I understand the idea of spreading the initial cost over many units, lowering the per-unit cost.

But even still, the cheapest 80% lower they sell is $80 (non anodized). You can get 100% lowers for the same price and cheaper (Aero Precision, Spikes, SAA). So even if you do a million of them, it's still $80 per 80% lower to start with, and that's not even including anodizing, your personal time spent doing it, or the initial start-up cost from buying the jig.

My point was simply that it can never actually be cost-efficient, compared to buying a 100% lower.

I'm not trying to discourage anyone from doing it. A rollmark/serial of your choice is kinda cool, but cost-efficient it is not.

bel970
02-14-2011, 23:43
then we agree, but when you buy in quantity you don't pay retail but then your back issues with FFL. I paid $45 for the last lower I bought, but I have access to de-branded contract over runs from a manufacture the makes them for some well known brands as well as a lot of ones you've never heard, they usually sell them for $65. at $80 for a 80% that's an expensive paper weight for a novice or good way to spend some spare time for a machinist.

M1A Shooter
02-15-2011, 22:04
im not doing this project as a cost saver. i know i can buy premade lowers cheaper but its a personalized project.

i also read that np3 and robar finishes, and i assume most others like them, require the anodizing to be blasted off before the finish is baked on. from the decriptions i read,its basically a thick colored coat of rust through an electrical process to anodize the lowers.