One Stop Cleaning with Breakfree CLP [Archive] - Glock Talk

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camario
02-16-2011, 11:43
I was at the Las Vegas GSSF match and talked to the Glock Armorer and they clean Glocks using only Breakfree CLP in the oil form (no-aerosol). Cleans, Lubricates and Protects. What do you guys think of that? Can I really get rid of my Hoppes and my Rem Oil and my Gunzilla?

AA#5
02-16-2011, 11:49
Only if you're not very picky about a clean gun.

Breakfree does have some cleaning properties but it's mainly a light-duty lubricant & rust inhibitor. It won't dissolve crud like a solvent will.

Bill Lumberg
02-16-2011, 11:51
CLP is great for "wet" guns like m4's and 1911's. It is a very inefficient solo solution for "dry" guns like glocks.

m24swsbar
02-16-2011, 11:52
It's what I use on all my weapons and what we use in the military.

wickedarachnid
02-16-2011, 11:54
great thing about gun cleaning is everyone is always wrong according to someone else. Do it the way you feel comfortable and don't let others convince you you are doing it wrong. if you want to try it out then so be it but don't throw away you other supplies just because someone else told you you were doing it wrong. I use Winchester powder blaster solvent and rem oil and I like the way my guns come out but according to someone else I am ruining my guns.

Batesmotel
02-16-2011, 11:56
I use it all the time. It is a good compromise between a pure solvent and an oil. For deep cleaning break out the solvents and coper fouling removers. One of my Glocks has had over 5000 rounds with nothing but CLP and no failures, excessive wear or excessive fouling. BTW it had over 100,000 rounds fired by a police academy before I bought it. The log book showed they used CLP.

drew4691
02-16-2011, 11:56
CLP is all I use.. Works for me.

tampashooters
02-16-2011, 11:57
That's all I use, and it works great.

Luminary
02-16-2011, 11:59
CLP and Isoprophyl 91% Alcohol are all I use on my guns. I'll put a drop of Mobil 1 oil on the required parts/areas.

Texcowboy
02-16-2011, 12:15
I have been using CLP since the 70's, if I have an extra dirty bore I will break out the Hoppes but that is rare.

South Fla
02-16-2011, 12:20
It's what I use on all my weapons and what we use in the military.

The over-the-counter BreakFree is a different formula than the mil-spec stuff.

From the Sig Forum:

Milspec BreakFree CLP, known as their D-5 formula, contains 20% solvent by weight while their civilian version ('E-formula') contains 12% solvent by weight.

Then again, there's the US milspec Royco CLP that you might find at gun shows. It's ingredients are the same, however it contains 40% solvent.

tuf8seconds
02-16-2011, 12:30
I say, take care of your weapons as best you can....even if it takes 10 steps to do it right. The military guys may have a better spec of BreakFree to clean their weapons with...and besides that, the military guys aint paying for prematurely worn out or damaged weapons, WE ARE!!!!!....Your carry weapon is too important to take any chances with, it could save your life. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!!!!!!

Rick O'Shay
02-16-2011, 12:33
When I learned that CLP was being used by the US Military, that was good enough for me. If their firearms are clean, lubed, and ready to go, what more can you ask?

I've been on board about 10 years with CLP.

Jack23
02-16-2011, 12:39
CLP is great for "wet" guns like m4's and 1911's. It is a very inefficient solo solution for "dry" guns like glocks.

:agree: From the very first I have used Hoppe's #9 solvent and Hoppe's Gun Oil or Rem Oil on all my Glocks. But on my AR-15 and all my revolvers I use the Break Free CLP, I run my AR wet and I have NO problem with keeping it clean and runnin' smooth.

JBP55
02-16-2011, 12:42
I use Weapon Shield CLP and lube essential parts with Mobil 1 20W50.

FM12
02-16-2011, 12:53
Not sure it would clean a leaded bore very well, but it might.

dukhunter20
02-16-2011, 12:54
Use "over-the-counter" break free clp here. Has been working for me. The only reason why it would be "wet" is if you apply too much. I saturate a q-tip and apply to the needed areas of lube. This keeps everything nice and neat.

MudFlap379
02-16-2011, 12:59
BreakFree CLP is all I use, and all I have used for years. Of course, to be fair, and I know I'm about to be flamed and hated for this, but truthfully I've never bought a single drop. You fine folks buy it for me, and a little here and a little there manages to make it off the range when we go out..... My mentality has always been if it's good enough for military, it's good enough for me. That doesn't hold true for all things military, but I accept it for CLP.

bentbiker
02-16-2011, 13:20
I have always used only CLP after my Army days. However, I'm trying some Wilson Combat white lithium grease on the rails (especially for the AA kit) at present.

There have previously been posts by proponent of M-Pro 7 which I've never used, and today Dvor, the new special deals website division of OpticsPlanet sent out a notice of special deals on all their cleaning stuff. If interested, you can see their deals only after signing up to receive their announcements: http://www.dvor.com/s/5ofp5h.html

Captains1911
02-16-2011, 13:30
I prefer Slip 2000, same idea. However, for any firearm, it's really not so much a matter of what lube you use but rather how you use it. Although I find remoil to be at the bottom of the barrel, way too thin for my liking.

Wriggly
02-16-2011, 13:34
I am sure CLP is a great product. I just dont like the way it smells. Hoppes #9 on the other hand, I would wear as aftershave.

robin303
02-16-2011, 13:36
Thats all we ever had in the Army and thats all I ever use to this day.

AA#5
02-16-2011, 13:46
The over-the-counter BreakFree is a different formula than the mil-spec stuff.

From the Sig Forum:

Never knew that. Interesting. Thanks for the info.

I wipe down the outside of my guns with BreakFree but for heavy friction areas, I use Wilson Ultima Lube.

AA#5
02-16-2011, 13:48
I prefer Slip 2000, same idea. However, for any firearm, it's really not so much a matter of what lube you use but rather how you use it. Although I find remoil to be at the bottom of the barrel, way too thin for my liking.

The thinness of Rem Oil is why I like it for trigger assemblies where you don't want heavy, thick lube - like the trigger pack on my Uzi - recommended in the Uzi manual.

SJ 40
02-16-2011, 14:06
I have used Breakfree CLP for years until five years ago when I tried Ballistol, now I use it for all guns. SJ 40

1canvas
02-16-2011, 14:20
i clean with CLP but lube my glocks with 5-20 mobile1. the CLP seemed to dry out quickly when i used it as a lube. the CLP i used was the spray, maybe the oil would do me better for lube.

Glockpimp
02-16-2011, 14:24
CLP works great! Glocks don't get real dirty anyway.

gclefton
02-16-2011, 14:35
Now that I am past the smell, I use Ballistol which is petroleum-free on my black powder pistols and rifles.

Breakfree on my smokeless weapons.

Pleased with both products.

GC
===========================

Alchemy
02-16-2011, 14:37
I have used Breakfree CLP for years until five years ago when I tried Ballistol, now I use it for all guns. SJ 40


Each to their own is my motto. Whatever works for you.

Hickok45 has an excellent video using Ballistol and why he uses it. If
you have time you might watch it. He's using it on a Glock pistol.

E-2-E
02-16-2011, 14:52
CLP for everything

internal
02-16-2011, 17:00
I use clp for all my guns.

brisk21
02-16-2011, 17:12
I used some Winchester brand breakfree clp and it works great!! It seemed to work better than hoppes taking off the carbon for me.

hikerpaddler
02-16-2011, 18:13
Clp is awesome. Its not the most efficient way to clean a glock, not as the sole substance used, but is best for guns that benefit from copious application of lubricant.

Manofprint
02-16-2011, 18:17
OMG.I am supposed to clean my guns ?

brisk21
02-16-2011, 18:42
OMG.I am supposed to clean my guns ?


You must have one of those fancy, new-fangled piston guns everyone is talking about. Self cleaning and even self aiming!!!

swinokur
02-17-2011, 10:19
If your patches and q tips and other rags come out clean and the gun doesn't bind or jam, you're using the right stuff.

:wavey:

ennis
02-19-2011, 14:22
Do your own testing. Take, whatever you use, and place a bit onto tin foil. Hold a heat source under the foil and see what happens to the product. That is what will happen in the bore of your gun. If it's black and gummy, I'd say try something else, there is no shortage of gun products. It's always a risky proposition to comment on someones children, their religion, their politics, their wife, or what they choose to clean their guns.

fastbolt
02-19-2011, 14:34
I've collected a number of different solvents, oils, CLP's, greases, etc over the years (gifts, T&E, whatever was left on the shelf, issued equipment, etc).

While I have some personal preferences when it comes to CLP's & lubricants, I'd offer that as an armorer I've encountered more problems caused by "improper cleaning methods" than by just about anything else.

Even a great firearm cleaning/lubrication product can be misused in such a way that problems might occur ...

Just my thoughts.

ennis
02-19-2011, 14:35
I've collected a number of different solvents, oils, CLP's, greases, etc over the years (gifts, T&E, whatever was left on the shelf, issued equipment, etc).

While I have some personal preferences when it comes to CLP's & lubricants, I'd offer that as an armorer I've encountered more problems caused by "improper cleaning methods" than by just about anything else.

Even a great firearm cleaning/lubrication product can be misused in such a way that problems might occur ...

Just my thoughts.
Exactly!

poodleshooter1
02-19-2011, 14:43
CLP and Isoprophyl 91% Alcohol are all I use on my guns. I'll put a drop of Mobil 1 oil on the required parts/areas.

So CLP and 91% Isopropyl are not ALL you use on your gun then if you use Mobil 1 as well.

minkis18
02-20-2011, 13:39
please elaborate on "improper cleaning". I assume you are talking about the usual fear everyone seems to have that an oiled striker WILL fail (even though mine was oiled and not cleaned for 1000+flawless rounds). I swear everyone here works for an oil company because you can never let someone bring up a "walmart oil" without mentioning that your personal lube is better.

I have a lot of different products that I use on my gun and my bike. For my bike, I use dry lubes to minimize mess transferred to other parts but for my guns, anything goes. I've used just breakfree, just remoil, S&W CLP, and even just Hoppe's without any lube applied. the results? my gun is clean and working. that's the goal and I think I've met my goal. Not sure your oil is good enough? does it get your gun clean? does it work? There you go.

ennis
02-20-2011, 15:46
please elaborate on "improper cleaning". I assume you are talking about the usual fear everyone seems to have that an oiled striker WILL fail (even though mine was oiled and not cleaned for 1000+flawless rounds). I swear everyone here works for an oil company because you can never let someone bring up a "walmart oil" without mentioning that your personal lube is better.

I have a lot of different products that I use on my gun and my bike. For my bike, I use dry lubes to minimize mess transferred to other parts but for my guns, anything goes. I've used just breakfree, just remoil, S&W CLP, and even just Hoppe's without any lube applied. the results? my gun is clean and working. that's the goal and I think I've met my goal. Not sure your oil is good enough? does it get your gun clean? does it work? There you go.
I thought that I could easily answer what improper cleaning would involve. It turned out to be harder than I thought. I can only think of mistakes that I have made and those that I have personally seen. Damaging the crown of a barrel by cleaning from the muzzle. Spraying some lube into the trigger assembly. Leaving the bore awash with oil and then firing the gun. Using strong solvent to clean a barrel and then leaving it in the barrel. Over using an abrasive product in the bore trying to clean or to improve accuracy with hard cast bullets(lapping compound). Long term storage of a gun coated with petroleum based gun oil. Polishing an antique brass Henry rifle to remove the patina. Probably others contributing to this thread can jump in with more examples.

The Torture test section of The Complete Glock Reference Manual shows a G23 submerged, for 15 minutes, in Mobil 1, 15-50 synthetic and then taken out and fired for 100 rounds. (They did run a single patch through the barrel to remove the excess oil). It functioned perfectly. (smoke and slippery grips not withstanding). So overlubing a Glock may not be the instant failure that some believe it to be. Not a recommended practice, but the gun did function, without gumming up, for the 100 rounds.

fastbolt
02-21-2011, 01:22
Improper cleaning methods?

How about not following the directions of the manufacturer in using any given product on a firearm? Misapplication of a product? Using an excessive amount? Using an insufficient amount? Not doing it often enough for conditions & needs? Using the wrong product for conditions and circumstances?

How about failing to consider any recommendations regarding maintenance, cleaning & lubrication by a specific firearm manufacturer? I've listened to an armorer instructor for one company describe thir products as "wet guns", while another stresses the importance of sufficient, but less, lubrication than the instructor from other manufacturer.

I've watched some folks laboriously "clean" weapons so they appeared clean, to them, but they didn't clean important parts. They were working for the "appearance effect" from their personal perspective (whatever that might be).

Some of them left excessive amounts of solvents, CLP's and lubricants on some surfaces which allowed migration of the liquids under the force of gravity to places where they shouldn't end up.

Other folks used an insufficient amount of the same products and mostly failed to clean the weapons, or worse yet, failed to properly lubricate them afterward.

I've witnessed many light-strikes in hammer-fired pistols (even though hammers usually have more mass and momentum going for them than in a striker-fired design) ... and when the guns were torn down it was revealed that critical parts no longer had the intended freedom of movement necessary for normal operation and function. The reason? This condition was typically caused by an obvious accumulation of congealed goo, which had become thickened and more viscous over time as the problem remained uncorrected.

When this sort of accumulation occurs in a firing pin spring of the design typically used in hammer-fired guns, "gunking up" the coils, the forward movement of the firing pin can be slowed and even stopped before the firing pin can properly hit the primer, resulting in either a light-strike or a no-strike condition. Not good.

Not a good thing to have occur in a striker-fired design, either, especially once the point is reached that either too much liquid is present (liquid being incompressible, remember), or, it gathers and sooner or later forms a sludge & goo and creates the same potential resistance to freedom of movement of the striker.

Some folks liked to use aerosol cleaning products (or an air compressor), but in a manner which seemed likely to help force liquids - and the fouling, debris and other contaminants carried by the liquids - into small places where it was unlikely, or at least difficult, for them to run back out.

Also, using some aerosol cleaning products in a manner which results in condensation forming on the outside of the metal parts might as easily allow for unseen condensation to form on the inside of the metal parts (I'm referring to metal slides & frames), lending itself to the potential adverse effects of moisture remaining on ferrous metals long enough for ill effect, as well as trapping unwanted contaminants.

I've seen hammers, sears and other metal parts inside frames bound up in accumulated sludge & goo, sometimes to the point that it was solidified, and the parts couldn't move as intended, either erratically or at all (at one point). I've seen it happen over the course of many years, or only a few years, and even as quickly as a couple of years. (Exposure to varying climate conditions and temperature can also have an influence, especially with weapons carried outside and being exposed to frequent temperature changes - think exposed carry methods.)

Not properly cleaning metal surfaces and then trapping moisture under a heavy oil can result in the formation of an oxidation cell (rust). Ever see an older blue steel or parkerized gun have rust form under a layer of someone's favorite oil?

Maintaining equipment properly for conditions and intended usage isn't a new concept.

Maintaining equipment that might save a life deserves some prudent consideration in the way of how it's done, I;'d think.

I've lost track of the number of folks who brought their issued or personally-owned handgun through a qual course or class, including non-LE who were attending some training, and experienced stoppages and operating failures caused by improper user/owner maintenance. I couldn't do anything about their disbelief, but usually pointed out that it was better for it have eventually occurred on the range instead of elsewhere. Then we'd discuss the importance of prudent maintenance.

It's never a problem ... until it is. Personally, I prefer to minimize potential risk when at all possible.

Some folks don't think they need to change their vehicle oil & filters as often as is recommended by manufacturers, check the air in their tires or perform other recommended maintenance, either.

mbjackson
02-24-2011, 21:37
I usually clean and lube my AR with BreakFree CLP or FP10. I use the CLP/FP10 to clean my Glocks but wipe it off and apply a thin coat of RIG universal grease on the rails and slide where the original copper grease was.

The Retired Sarge
02-25-2011, 09:26
Over the years I have found Weapon Shield CLP to work best for me. It is the only product I use on my guns for clean/lube/protection. Bill

medic1213
01-12-2012, 13:22
Hey guys, before anybody jumps me for the zombie thread, I know it's old... I googled Cleaning a Glock with CLP, and this was first on the list. Anyway, for my background, I've owned, shot and cleaned Glocks since around 1997, so I'm not a Glock newb. I've just never used CLP until today. I've always cleaned with a solvent and a lube separately. I gotta say I was expecting something totally different than what came out of the can earlier. I was expecting something like a carb cleaner or something. What I got was a foaming oil. Anyway, I sprayed everything down with the foam, but then after it quickly turned to the oil, I suddenly felt I had done something wrong. I know (or at least have been told many times over the years) that you're not supposed to oil inside the striker channel. Well, obviously when you spray the slide down, oil, and apparently a good bit of it, gets inside the striker. I also sprayed the trigger assembly. I let the gun sit for a couple hours, and came back to start wiping it clean. Not real impressed with the amount of fouling that was removed. It seemed like it took forever to clean out the bore, and especiallly on the feed ramp. I have kept my feed ramp mirror polished for years, so it was easy to see the black didn't come off very easily. Anyway, I started to get paranoid about the striker oil, so I completely disassembled my slide and cleaned out the excess oil with several Q-tips. After getting the slide back together and wiped down of all the excess oil, I moved to the frame assembly. The whole process took a lot longer than my normal cleanings with solvent, and it has left my frame a slippery oily mess as the oil keeps dripping out of the trigger assembly and magazine release area. I'm not real sure I'm gonna keep using this stuff, so I'm asking you guys how you go about using it. I'm not afraid to admit maybe I didn't do it right. I hate to throw the can away, and I kinda like how I can clean the gun indoors without the smell of solvent giving everybody a headache, but I'm not liking how oily my gun felt after cleaning. I generally like to clean the bore, slide and frame with solvents, and then just adding a small amount of quality Mili-tec oil to the frame rails and trigger sear and contact points. This stuff just made me feel like I would have gotten the same result had I dunked my gun into a bucket of oil. So, did I do it wrong?

Bill Lumberg
01-16-2012, 06:38
Stick with products made for guns. CLP alone will do, but it's terribly inefficient for dry guns. A solvent cleaning followed by a few drops of oil is faster than lubing the whole gun and wiping all but 5 drops off.

p5200
01-18-2012, 22:13
I've used the Break Free CLP a lot and ran across this test and found it very interesting for rust prevention. :cool: http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

tango44
09-24-2012, 17:47
I been using CLP since 2001 on my G26 and after 8135 rounds not a single problem.
Sometimes I use Hoppes 9 for my bore but I hate the smell!

tuica
09-25-2012, 12:46
I could use it exclusively, but I do add Tetra Gun Grease on rails. Cheers.