Anyone try this before? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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byf43
03-23-2011, 07:57
Mornin' everyone.

I'm preparing some .45-70 loads using Cast Performance 405 gr LWNGC bullets.

The seater plug that came with my RCBS dies are RN configuration.
I called RCBS and talked to a customer service rep (didn't get his name), and told him what I needed.
Fully expecting to pay for a seater plug, he said that he'd ship me a "WC" seater plug at no charge.
(Thanks RCBS, by the way!!)

Anyway. . . I get the new seater plug, and it's not 'right' for this CP bullet.
The face (proper name) of the bullet is .378" across, and the "WC" seater plug is a lot smaller.
The new seater plug is perfect for the Speer 350 gr HotCor FP bullets that I have, so, I'm not going to modify it.

What I've done is to use some "JB Weld" to fill in the RN cavity of the seater plug.
It looks pretty good, right now. No drips, runs, errors, sofar, plus the end of the seater plug is flat (as it should be).
The "JB Weld" should be cured (24 hours) tonight, but, I won't get to try it out until tomorrow evening.

Has anyone tried this???

unclebob
03-23-2011, 08:02
I believe Jack has.

labdwakin
03-23-2011, 08:47
If Jack HASN'T... it's only because he hasn't done it YET... LOL

GioaJack
03-23-2011, 10:01
byf43:

Modifying a seating stem for particular bullet designs is an age old trick that works very well. Personally I've never used JB Weld, (it wasn't around years ago), I've always used a two part epoxy. The JB should hold up better but you'll probably have to put the stem in the oven to heat it up when you want to remove it... the epoxy just peels out with a screw driver or pair of needle nose pliers. If I ever have the need to modify another one I'll probably try the Weld though.

I'm just a bit confused by your post but maybe you think we're smarter than we really are and purposely left out some of the steps you performed. Just to run through the procedure quickly this is basically what needs to be done.

Degrease the seating stem thoroughly so the JB or epoxy will adhere to it. Take a dummy round, (if you don't have one just seat the new design bullet in a case with your fingers then crimp it enough with a pair of pliers so it doesn't slide into the case under moderate pressure.)

Screw your seating die into your press, (if it is a combo seating/crimping die leave it high enough so the crimp doesn't come into play). Apply a generous coating of oil to the bullet to act as a release agent to keep the bullet from sticking to the Weld. Mix your Weld and fill the nose of the existing seating stem, (the mixture needs to be rather stiff as opposed to runny), keeping it in the nose of the stem and off the outer sides.

Run your dummy bullet up into the die, when the ram is fully up screw the seating stem into the die until it impacts the nose of the bullet then slowly continue downward until the Weld has made a mould of the bullet design. (You can remove the stem to check that the mould is deep enough and repeat if necessary.)

Once you have the proper configuration wipe off any Weld or epoxy that has seeped up along the exterior sides of the stem then set it aside to cure based on package recommendations.

Remove the seating die from the press and clean the inside of it before any Weld or epoxy that may have touched the sides of it dries... you'll play hell trying to get it out of there if you wait too long.

That's pretty much it. When everything has cured simply adjust your die for the correct OAL and crimp, if applicable, and have a ball. Good luck.


Jack

dudel
03-23-2011, 10:46
I've modified them before with paper and lube. Paper forms to the profile, lube keeps it in place. Easy to change if needed.

byf43
03-23-2011, 10:53
Thanks, Jack!!!!

What's amazing is that the seater plug stem is the same diameter as the bullet 'face' that I need/want to load!! (I measured .378" with my dial calipers.)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a366/byf43/CastPerformance405WLNGCLabel.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a366/byf43/CastPerformance405WLNGCclose-up.jpg

Basically, I took the finish off of (out of) the seater plug 'bullet contour' with a ScotchBrite pad and then used a Dremel tool and a VERY pointed grinding tip to give the 'bullet contour' some "tooth' for the "JB Weld" to adhere to.
(Picture a concave golfball surface with multiple dents in it.)

Then, I wiped down the 'bullet contour' and stem with Acetone to remove any trace of oil, etc. and let it air dry.

After mixing up a small batch of "JB Weld" (about the size of a peanut), I wiped the stem with some BreakFree CLP (as a release agent), then wiped the 'bullet contour' with Acetone, again, with a Q-Tip, and again, air dry.

I let the "JB Weld" sit for about 4 minutes, then using a 2" wide flat piece of wood, I pressed the "JB Weld" into the 'bullet contour' sorta like filling a Canoli, then wiped it flush with the stem using a flat piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard) with wax paper stretched over it.

I then used a paper towel and some Acetone and wiped the stem clean.

I then put the seater plug (seater plug 'face' UP) into a flat-bottomed hole that I drilled in a piece of MDF and made sure it was 'plumb' and placed it on a flat table to cure.

I figure that IF it works. . . great.
If not. . . no big deal. I'll buy another SWC seater plug and file the end off of the one that RCBS sent me.

RCBS did say that at this time, they are really busy, and it'll take 7 weeks to custom-make a seater plug for the Cast Performance 405 gr WLNGC bullets, and I'll have to send them 5 bullets.


I'll try to take a couple of photos this evening, when I get home.

(I hope what I wrote made sense!):dunno:

GioaJack
03-23-2011, 11:17
I'm a little bit confused but that's not really anything new for me... the photos should help my feeble mind.

I've never 'scored' or changed the stem's profile in any way since I'd still use it on bullet profiles it was designed for.

Making less than $2500 a year in the military you really had to find ways to do things on the cheap.

Looking forward to seeing photos.


Jack

byf43
03-23-2011, 11:23
Well, at this point in time, I don't plan on loading any roundnosed bullets in the .45-70. (Keyword. . . at THIS time!):supergrin:
I contemplated grinding/cutting the RN seater plug flat, but, I decided to try this, instead.

I've never been what's called "Intelligent". I've just sort of 'made do' with what I've got and right now, IF this works, I'll have a permanent/semi-permanent seater plug for these bullets.


I'll post up some pics of the seater plug this evening.

Again, thanks for your insight. It is appreciated.

The ultimate bottom line as to why I'm doing this. . .this way. . . I'm supposed to be going on a wild boar hunt next week, and I'd like to use these bullets in my Guide Gun.
(So this doesn't give me a whole lot of time to get a proper seater plug!)


Keith

Colorado4Wheel
03-23-2011, 11:25
JB Welded stems have pros and cons. Con is that they don't have any give to them and will be upset by any debri or deformation of the bullet. I went back to using a nice polished cone shaped stem. I have had better luck with that.

byf43
03-23-2011, 16:38
Here are some photos of the seater plug filled with JB Weld -

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a366/byf43/45-70SeaterPlug_FLAT.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a366/byf43/45-70SeaterPlug_FLAT2.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a366/byf43/45-70SeaterPlug_FLAT4.jpg

GioaJack
03-23-2011, 17:06
Based on the bullet design you're using that should work without a problem as long as the bullets don't tip in the cases while the flat stem is forcing them down.

If that does become a problem just remove the Weld and try it again as I described above. You'll end up with a stem that is an exact duplicate of the bullet nose and they'll seat straight.

I doubt if you'll have to redo it though, your way should work. You did a nice clean job.


Jack

byf43
03-23-2011, 18:01
Thanks again.

I'm not going to go fast.
I'm working up these loads on my RockChucker.
When I find a good, accurate load, I'll load 50 or so at a time.