HELP! I can't get 1911 to come back apart! [Archive] - Glock Talk

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leadthrower
03-24-2011, 10:23
Hey folks,

Rarely do I post, but when I do it seems to always be for your expert knowledge. You have all helped me in the past, and I hope you will again. Some day I hope to have a bit of knowledge I may pass on to some nervous gun owner in need of help during a time of crisis.


My problem is this. I have a friend's Citadel Compact 1911. He's given it to me to do a two tone Duracoat paint job. Now, I can field strip a handgun, but never before have I had to do a complete disassembly of a 1911.
I'll tell you what I've done and where the problem now is.

I first took out the thumb safety by using a small screw driver to hold back the detent and spring.
2. With that I pulled out the grip safety.
3. Then I pushed out the pin on the bottom of the gun and removed the "Main spring housing" (as called by some 1911 schematic I found online.)
4. With that, the hammer fell limp and I took out the pin for it. With it came the "Hammer Strut." (Again, these names are coming from a 1911 schematic I found on google images.)
5. Finally I took out the sear spring.


I got this far and thought I was going a little fast, so I decided I'd put it all back together again and keep busting it apart this far for practice.

So, in perfect reverse order I started putting it back together, the final stage being putting the thumb safety in. After I dropped it in place I realized I probably needed to put in the spring and detent back in first with the safety half way out.

Here's the big problem. I can't get the safety to budge at all. It's stuck. I've already busted my little screw driver prying on it ever so lightly, yet firmly.

I should also mention that the hammer with not lock back. It will move back with my thumb just fine, but will not lock.


I need help folks. It's making me very nervous. What am I doing wrong?


LT

Quack
03-24-2011, 10:34
Where's the thumb safety stuck, half way out?

The hammer not locking back sounds like you didn't install the sear spring properly.

leadthrower
03-24-2011, 10:35
It's stuck all the way in.

I think you're right, I didn't get it back together right. And ideas on what I need to do?

Quack
03-24-2011, 10:53
Remove the mainspring housing and sear spring, then see if you can remove it.

aglocker1911
03-24-2011, 12:47
Hammer has to be back, thumb safety part way in between on and off, then it should come out. Sear sping is not positioned right on the sear/disconector so there is nothing for the hammer to "catch" on in the cocked position. I always push against the thumb safety where the pin comes out of the right side of the gun while I move the safety, it will usually "pop" out a bit when it hits the sweet spot, then you know it is okay to pull it the rest of the way out. Good luck.

Jim S.
03-24-2011, 13:37
Wiggle the thumb safety as you are pulling on it.
The hammer has to be somewhere in between cocked and un cocked.
You should be able to wiggle it too a bit.
Put the screw drivers and stuff away.
You should never need a tool to get the safety out.
A punch for the pins. That's it.
Learn the corect way of stripping a 1911 before you do it.
You should get in the habit of taking the M.S. housing out first.
Then the thumb safety.
Then the grip safety and spring, hammer, sear and disconnector.

aglocker1911
03-24-2011, 14:01
Sorry, but the hammer has to be in the cocked position, NOT somewhere in between. I always take the thunb safety out before removing the MSH, that way proper tension is kept on the hammer, Just don't forget to let the hammer down before removing the MSH.

leadthrower
03-25-2011, 07:18
Thank you gentlemen! I had to remove the MSH and then the sear spring. After that the safety was able to turn to the safe position and then fall out.

As far as knowing how to take a 1911 apart, how else am I to learn? I've read the manual and I watched the video. I just missed the part about how the sear spring is supposed to sit back in there.

Hopefully I don't have to come back to you guys with another problem.
I sure appreciate the help you guys have freely offered.

Maybe I can post some pics of it painted...

LT

Jim S.
03-26-2011, 10:39
Sorry, but the hammer has to be in the cocked position, NOT somewhere in between. I always take the thunb safety out before removing the MSH, that way proper tension is kept on the hammer, Just don't forget to let the hammer down before removing the MSH.

Sorry, but I disagree. The hammer can be in between.
I do it all the time and I doubt my 1911's are unique to any other ones.

leadthrower
03-26-2011, 19:20
Well, I finished it all thanks to you guys!

Here's a picture I found of Google Images, since I didn't take one before disassembly. It is identical though.

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee383/leadthrower1/Citadelbefore.jpg


Here it is after I painted it with Duracoat. I think I like it.


http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee383/leadthrower1/2011-03-26_14-13-23_178.jpg

COLDSTEEL165
04-02-2011, 00:11
I never break down my 1911 past a field strip,never found a need to.?

craig19
04-02-2011, 05:37
I never break down my 1911 past a field strip,never found a need to.?


He needed to paint it.

Jim S.
04-02-2011, 06:30
I never break down my 1911 past a field strip,never found a need to.?

How about just so you know how to do it proficiently?
How about so you can inspect parts for wear or potential problems?
How about when something does break or fail you can fix it and not have to pay someone else to do it?
It also helps in understanding the functioning of each part in relationship to the other parts.

Quack
04-02-2011, 07:54
no need to detail strip if it's a safe queen :tongueout: :animlol:

knedrgr
04-02-2011, 09:33
I never break down my 1911 past a field strip,never found a need to.?
Should've gotten Glock instead. :whistling:

canoesmith
04-02-2011, 19:13
Hey, you learn by doing. Last night, i tore my Series 80 apart piece by piece, watching a really good video on how to disassemble a series 70 1911. 2 extra pieces - yikes! put it back together, and the mag wouldn't go in, I had put the plunger lifter next to the sear in backwards, tear it back down and do it again. I learned a ton, but had a few tense moments. But now I have no fear. Put 200 round through it today, and the trigger was smoother because I polished the series 80 safety components and took the grit out of my trigger pull.

You learn by doing.

Go for it.

Poppa Bear
04-03-2011, 21:34
I would have given it to a friend to tear apart. Painted the components and then sent it back to be reassembled. The parts had better be in good shape too, otherwise quality replacement parts would be installed. Rob will not send an assembled gun back unless it is 100% functional and safe.