I want to build myself an AR-15 [Archive] - Glock Talk

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crsuribe
08-21-2011, 01:58
Hey guys!

Most of you are lucky enough to own one of these beauties and I wanna join the club.

I don't really have the funds for it right now but might be able to start purchasing parts little by little sometime in the near future.

I got some questions though..

I was looking at stripped lowers on Impact Guns and noticed that they do not require FFL transfer. So are you required to register your AR with the ATF somehow at some point during the process of building the AR? Because a finished lower does require FFL transfer.

I don't want to end up breaking the law out of ignorance so I thought I should ask first.

Also, there is SO MUCH to choose from! I really like the S&W M&P 5.56mm NATO lower for $129; what do you guys think about these?

What about the parts kits? I see a Rock River Arms parts kit for $70, so for about $200 I could have a complete lower. I don't expect this kit to be awesome but I think at least the S&W lower is pretty decent quality and I can eventually get a better trigger/internals if I really find it necessary..

Anyway, I'm thinking about starting with the lower since it seems like it requires the most work just to get it out of the way first.

What do you guys think? Your opinions will be appreciated!

BBJones
08-21-2011, 02:50
What lower are you seeing that does not require an FFL transfer? They all should unless you are buying something that will require machining to turn it into a lower.

Most lowers are GTG. As long as it is in spec it will work. Check out this lower for alot less: http://palmettostatearmory.com/1560.php

As for lower parts kits that I have experience with: Daniel Defense, G&R tactical, and Stag (in that order). I have heard that the Palmetto State Armory lower parts kits are good to go as well. PSA might be a one stop shop for you.

eracer
08-21-2011, 03:44
No way a finished, stripped lower can be transferred from a dealer or manufacturer without going to another FFL. Once that lower has a serial number, it becomes a firearm.

Like BBjones said - if the lower is in spec, it's GTG. The only part of the lower that really contributes to accuracy is the FCG (trigger, hammer, springs.) Budget some $$$ for a better trigger - you'll thank me later. A Geissele (Guy-Zlee) SSA is a good combination of feel and reliability. It's not a prceision trigger, but it's WAY better than the trigger you'll find in an OEM lower parts kit.

Folks will try to convince you to learn to shoot with the craptastic OEM trigger. Pure nonsense. Trigger upgrade should be a priority.

Also:

- Get a free-float handguard.

- Spend money on a good upper assembly (barrel, upper receiver.) The upper is the most important part of the gun. Get a flat-top. Much better optic options than a fixed carry handle.

- The original A2 fixed stock is cool, but it's too long for me. You don't have to spend a bunch on a collapsible stock (unless you don't want a collapsible stock that feels like it's going to come apart every time you pick up the gun.) People spend $150-$250 on a quality stock for a reason. I'm not saying you need to, but if you have the budget, a good stock like a VLTOR or a Magpul is a nice upgrade.

bullittmcqueen
08-21-2011, 05:34
Check out the palmetto state armory website like the above guys said. They occasionally run specials on their lowers for $49 (yeah I know!!) and they make quality parts and ship fast. Get the parts kit and stock assembly there to just to simplify things.

The lower you were referring to must have been an un-machined blank with no serial number. Any lower with a serial # requires FFL transfer.

120mm
08-21-2011, 08:42
What do you want to do with your AR???

If you want to do precision shooting, eracer has some good suggestions.

If you want to do combat shooting/plinking, you don't need to blow money on a Giessele or anything other than an OEM trigger or the free float barrel. Lots of extraordinary combat shooters run the stock trigger just fine and a free float barrel doesn't add any really usable accuracy in combat/self defense shooting.

I second the suggestion to surf on over to Palmetto State Armory. You can't go far wrong with buying one of their kits and a stripped lower (ordered separately, of course, since you need to order the lower through an FFL, and this also eliminates the 11% Federal excise tax you pay for complete rifles.)

You should be able to get a really nice rifle/carbine for around $600 with shipping and transfer, if you find a good FFL who doesn't charge too much.

Once you shoot it well enough to need a Giessele and a free float forearm, you can add those later, and save yourself $300 starting out.

WayaX
08-21-2011, 09:45
Folks will try to convince you to learn to shoot with the craptastic OEM trigger. Pure nonsense. Trigger upgrade should be a priority. Yeah, that OEM trigger is SO bad...you can never be a good shot with the stock trigger :upeyes:.People who sacrifice reliability or other quality parts for an aftermarket trigger are generally just compensating for sucking. They have their place, but not every rifle needs one.


Get a free-float handguard. Why? Not every rifle needs one. The handguard should be matched to the purpose of the rifle. For most, a Magpul MOE handguard will be fine.

Spend money on a good upper assembly (barrel, upper receiver.) The upper is the most important part of the gun. A good upper is important, but a $1000 upper does jack squat if your fire control assembly takes a dump. A gun is only as good as it's weakest link.

eracer
08-21-2011, 09:54
Waya, I agree with everything you just said.

And still...

I believe that a quality trigger is a cost-effective way to significantly improve the AR-15 platform. You simply don't compromise reliability with a good aftermarket trigger.

I believe that a free-float handguard is a cost-effective way to significantly improve the AR-15 platform. A free-float handguard definitely improves repeatability - that's simply a fact.

I believe that a quality upper assembly is a cost-effective way to significantly improve the AR-15 platform. The barrel is by far the most important contributor to accuracy. Again, simple fact.

Want a good truck gun? Buy a $600 A2 clone.

Want a quality AR-15 that can reliably hit a 4" target at 200 yards with military ball? Spend some money on the upgrades I suggested.

BBJones
08-21-2011, 10:59
Yeah, that OEM trigger is SO bad...you can never be a good shot with the stock trigger :upeyes:.People who sacrifice reliability or other quality parts for an aftermarket trigger are generally just compensating for sucking. They have their place, but not every rifle needs one.



A good upper is important, but a $1000 upper does jack squat if your fire control assembly takes a dump. A gun is only as good as it's weakest link.


Geissele are just as reliable as a stock trigger, if not more so in some cases. They have a proven reputation.

I think we all agree a quality barrel is the most important factor in contributing to accuracy of the rifle.

FF or non-FF is something the OP will have to decide based on what he desires out of the gun.

Everyone has made good suggestions, lets not confuse the OP by arguing small details.


OP - What type of shooting do you expect to do with this rifle? for Self Defense, plinking, hunting, some medium range precision? Any ideas on overall budget.

crsuribe
08-21-2011, 11:33
First of all thank you guys so much for the very good advise. I did check out the PSA website and there is some really nice stuff on there.

I was under the assumption that you didn't have to go through FFL with the M&P receiver because of the reviews and the fact that when I went to checkout (just to check) it said I wasn't required to select an FFL for that order and the shipping address listed was my address. But I now think it must've been some kind of error. Here's the receiver I was looking at: CLICK ME (http://www.impactguns.com/smith-wesson-mp-15-stripped-lower-assembly-556mm-nato-812000-022188134193.aspx)

Anyway! I appreciate the insight about the free float barrel and the nice trigger, which I do agree would improve the platform considerably, but unfortunately I do not have the funds right now for that kind of stuff and I personally prefer to start with simpler things and slowly move into the better stuff as the need arises. I simple get more joy out of it because it feels like I get to appreciate every step of the way. The sweet can't be sweet without the sour, that kinda thing...haha. (It really has a lot more to do with my budget than anything else). But I will eventually hit those upgrades and appreciate the suggestion!

What I plan to do with this rifle/carbine is mostly just regular range shooting and home defense. Maybe more as I get better with it and new upgrades are done but the main reason I want one is because I'm tired of drooling over all of your AR's pictures. I think AR's are simply beautiful and just really really want one of my own.

I probably won't pimp it out too much at all since I like things to be simple, but won't get an upper with a fixed handle because I can see myself regretting that in the future when I decide to start saving for a nice AimPoint.

Probably won't add any extra rails to it for a long time unless I find I really need them just because I want a clean, simpler build, but without going too low and just buying a cheap DPMS or used Bushmaster.

Hope I did a decent job at illustrating what's on my mind.... basically I'd love to have something like this:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17786072&postcount=2414

Simply beautiful and with lots of possibilities for future mods!

alexanderg23
08-21-2011, 11:41
I say Palmetto state Armory for the lower, Del-ton for the kit. You could have it for <600

surf
08-21-2011, 11:46
Goodness, the fellow is on a tight budget where he needs to take time to acquire parts to put together a rifle and there is a suggestion of purchasing a $170 trigger?

Buy a quality Lower Parts Kit and the stock trigger will be more than fine for your needs. As your skill level and familiarity with this weapon platform increases so will your knowledge on what changes you might want to do with it. Working a trigger isn't Rocket Surgery or Brain Science and a USGI just requires more concentration on the basic fundamentals of shooting and maintaining those fundamentals throughout a more difficult trigger pull. Invariably if you do it correctly and can master a USGI type trigger, when you change to a slick trigger, you will absolutely smoke anyone who didn't master the stock one first.

eracer
08-21-2011, 13:22
Well surf, that's a difference between us. I think owning an AR with an OEM FCG is like eating horsemeat. Yeah, it'll work....but why, when it's a relatively inexpensive and easy upgrade that adds so much value? I can practice fundamentals with a good trigger, and get better faster than I can with a creepy, gritty, heavy stock trigger.

surf
08-21-2011, 17:13
Hmmm, cheap improvement? He is trying to scrape together parts slowly because he is strapped for cash. He can't even afford all the parts and the suggestion of $170 for a trigger, when he can get a good USGI trigger in a good LPK for around $70 for the entire lower parts kit? You must have more money than me and this fella.

For the OP, trust me my friend, you don't need anything more than a USGI trigger at this stage of the game. Using the same logic we should be suggesting red dot optics right now. But we don't need either right now. Put that money into actually getting a rifle together first. Even then, IMO you should avoid such purchases, until the correct time in your learning progression / familiarity with this platform, unless if you are already a top level shooter who just happens to be getting his first AR/M4.

I will avoid hijacking this thread, turning it into a trigger debate and leave it at that.

I will say for the original topic that it is sometimes a better option for saving money, especially if you factor shipping etc, to just purchase complete uppers and lowers and pushing a couple pins together. You generally save the 11% from it being a complete weapon. You can also find some great deals on blem lowers etc. Another good economical route is to put the lower together yourself and just buy the complete upper. You just gotta shop around and purchase wisely. No matter what you do, the more informed you become the better off you will be.

cfec2008
08-21-2011, 19:15
What lower are you seeing that does not require an FFL transfer? They all should unless you are buying something that will require machining to turn it into a lower.

Most lowers are GTG. As long as it is in spec it will work. Check out this lower for alot less: http://palmettostatearmory.com/1560.php

As for lower parts kits that I have experience with: Daniel Defense, G&R tactical, and Stag (in that order). I have heard that the Palmetto State Armory lower parts kits are good to go as well. PSA might be a one stop shop for you.


this^^^^^^^^^^^^^ buy a stripped lower from palmetto. then a lower parts kit from them, then bacis stock, buffer, buffer tube, buffer spring, then youll have a complete lower half. I havent used their lowers, but i have used their lower parts kit. everything was just as nice as others i used, and function was great. shipping is fast. the whole process went really smooth with palmetto.

cfec2008
08-21-2011, 19:18
by the way, if you want to build your upper dont let anyone talk you out of it. follow the intructions on ar15.com and you will be ok. nothing wrong with buying a complete upper either. just wanted to throw that in there.

crsuribe
08-21-2011, 20:13
Truly appreciate everybody's suggestions.

Since money's pretty tight I will focus on the lower first, which should take me a few months, if not the rest of the year.

And I do want a decent upper. At this point I think BCM's are pretty decent. But it will be a relatively long time before I get to that. (They're expensive though!)

And yeah, I'm not gonna worry about red dots for a while. Iron sights will be more than sufficient for me. I've never even fired an AR-15 before but I'm really good with my 10/22. I figure it will take me a couple thousand rounds to get pretty decent with the AR once I have it, and once I get to that point I will take it a little further.

Thanks a lot for the help, guys! I'm pretty excited about this and can't wait to start placing the orders.

LA_357SIG
08-21-2011, 22:22
Just some friendly advice from my adventures in AR15 DIY building is when in doubt, buy from BCM. They generally do not sell substandard parts.

Personally I buy from AIM Surplus. I like Spikes LPK. I will only use BCM receiver extension kits. Lowers are personal preference. Do not skimp on BCG's. DD, BCM and Spike's can be found for around $100-125. (I am not 100% sold on PSA yet.) I am also pretty satisfied with Magpul for furniture.

And just from my experiences and totally my opinion: Do not expect any spectacular results from the highly exhaulted 1/7, chrome lined, 11595E milspec super barrels if you are going to shoot surplus ammo or xm193.

crsuribe
08-21-2011, 22:28
Yeah I've learned that 1/7 is better for heavier bullets and more versatile than 1/9 because of that. Which is why I plan on going with a 1/7. I will more than likely reload for this rifle anyway so I'll get to pick my bullet weights. I don't know what the prices run for 5.56mm or .223 ammo but I really enjoy hand loading, and who knows, it might save me a few bucks too.

In reality, either twist rate will be more accurate than me haha

Trey83
08-21-2011, 22:32
Just some friendly advice from my adventures in AR15 DIY building is when in doubt, buy from BCM. They generally do not sell substandard parts.

Personally I buy from AIM Surplus. I like Spikes LPK. I will only use BCM receiver extension kits. Lowers are personal preference. Do not skimp on BCG's. DD, BCM and Spike's can be found for around $100-125. (I am not 100% sold on PSA yet.) I am also pretty satisfied with Magpul for furniture.

And just from my experiences and totally my opinion: Do not expect any spectacular results from the highly exhaulted 1/7, chrome lined, 11595E milspec super barrels if you are going to shoot surplus ammo or xm193.

Have you heard negative comments about them or is that just because they are new to the market? Just curious.

eracer
08-22-2011, 03:46
Hmmm, cheap improvement? He is trying to scrape together parts slowly because he is strapped for cash. He can't even afford all the parts and the suggestion of $170 for a trigger, when he can get a good USGI trigger in a good LPK for around $70 for the entire lower parts kit? You must have more money than me and this fella.

For the OP, trust me my friend, you don't need anything more than a USGI trigger at this stage of the game. Using the same logic we should be suggesting red dot optics right now. But we don't need either right now. Put that money into actually getting a rifle together first. Even then, IMO you should avoid such purchases, until the correct time in your learning progression / familiarity with this platform, unless if you are already a top level shooter who just happens to be getting his first AR/M4.

I will avoid hijacking this thread, turning it into a trigger debate and leave it at that.

I will say for the original topic that it is sometimes a better option for saving money, especially if you factor shipping etc, to just purchase complete uppers and lowers and pushing a couple pins together. You generally save the 11% from it being a complete weapon. You can also find some great deals on blem lowers etc. Another good economical route is to put the lower together yourself and just buy the complete upper. You just gotta shop around and purchase wisely. No matter what you do, the more informed you become the better off you will be.Fine. But if he's that broke, maybe he should consider not buying an AR at this time.

I'm out.

crsuribe
08-22-2011, 13:07
Fine. But if he's that broke, maybe he should consider not buying an AR at this time.

I'm out.

I'm not buying an AR, I'm building one liiiiiiiiiittle by little. If I wait until I have the funds to just buy all the cool stuff to put together a Noveske-like quality AR, it'll be a few years before I'm able to place the first order.

But if I go with the more humble stuff, not only will I have my AR within a year or so, but I'll be able to learn it the way I like to learn everything.

I don't wanna start at the end of the road. I wanna get to the end of the road eventually, by working my way up!

But, AGAIN, I really appreciate your suggestions and will come back to this thread to retrieve that information when I'm ready for it. So thank you Sir!

crazymoose
08-22-2011, 13:24
I'm not buying an AR, I'm building one liiiiiiiiiittle by little. If I wait until I have the funds to just buy all the cool stuff to put together a Noveske-like quality AR, it'll be a few years before I'm able to place the first order.

But if I go with the more humble stuff, not only will I have my AR within a year or so, but I'll be able to learn it the way I like to learn everything.

I don't wanna start at the end of the road. I wanna get to the end of the road eventually, by working my way up!

But, AGAIN, I really appreciate your suggestions and will come back to this thread to retrieve that information when I'm ready for it. So thank you Sir!

Buy the premium rifle-length upper from Palmetto. It is all "mil spec," which is good. You can get a cheap lower anywhere. Throw a decent rear sight on there, and you're good to go. I suggest Palmetto because they seem to have the cheapest bolts and barrels that adhere to the spec. I suggest a 20", full-size upper because it will last the longest, be the most reliable, and is a great way to learn the fundamentals of shooting with iron sights.

ETA: A good stock can be a relatively cheap upgrade that helps a lot. I absolutely hate the narrow cheek piece of the standard M16 and M4 stocks. The TI-7 stock by tactical intentions feels like a $150 SOPMOD stock in terms of the cheek rest, but has the handiness of the CTR, and it costs like $90. I absolutely love mine. It doesn't have the proven record of the SOPMOD or the EMOD (which is probably my favorite stock, although the TI7 might dethrone it eventually if it proves durable in the long term). Then again, you might be one of the guys who really likes the standard stocks. The trick, like some guys have been saying, is to get the basic gear, put in the trigger time, and see what you need, not what internet ninjas or the local SWAT team needs. There's a reason that so many AR-15 innovations come from guys in top tier special forces units and from competitive shooters. Those guys put a lot of rounds down range, and have learned what can make the rifle better.

cfec2008
08-22-2011, 18:23
I'm not buying an AR, I'm building one liiiiiiiiiittle by little. If I wait until I have the funds to just buy all the cool stuff to put together a Noveske-like quality AR, it'll be a few years before I'm able to place the first order.

But if I go with the more humble stuff, not only will I have my AR within a year or so, but I'll be able to learn it the way I like to learn everything.

I don't wanna start at the end of the road. I wanna get to the end of the road eventually, by working my way up!

But, AGAIN, I really appreciate your suggestions and will come back to this thread to retrieve that information when I'm ready for it. So thank you Sir!
right on brother!!! youll know everything about your rifle when your done. If you buy a complete upper bcm is in my opinion a great, reliable, go bang everytime, correctly made upper. dont get me wrong there are others, but bcm is not DECENT, they are great. all im saying is if you go bcm, run it like a chainsaw,,,,widddee open. if you need any help with anything pm me and ill do my best.

crsuribe
08-22-2011, 23:04
So PSA upper groups are GTG too? They're definitely cheaper than BCM. I imagine they're not as great but I doubt I'll notice the difference while punching paper at 100yds. Unless I get jams left right and center, of course.

Trey83
08-22-2011, 23:12
So PSA upper groups are GTG too? They're definitely cheaper than BCM. I imagine they're not as great but I doubt I'll notice the difference while punching paper at 100yds. Unless I get jams left right and center, of course.

I just got my PSA upper today and the fit and finish is great. I haven't heard anything along the lines of jamming or any issues with PSA for that matter. I will give a better report after I have put some rounds down range.

IGotIt
08-22-2011, 23:36
My advice...use google to search every form of AR parts, ex: "complete uppers", "stripped lowers" "full auto BCG's" etc, and you will find an arms length of gunshops, manufacturers, outlets,and every place that sells AR's or parts. Then spend hours searching those sites learning about the different features, pros and cons, reviews, about the products available.

From there, pick out what you like, and then sort everything out by prices. You'll find that one place will have a deal on lowers but they'll be a bit higher on their uppers. Other places will have BCG's and LPK's at a better price. Take everything on your list and price each place including shipping to get a bottom line price. It may turn out it's better to buy everything at one place even though say the BCG and stock assembly are more than store B.

Another thing, hit the search functions on a holiday. Many stores put uppers and lowers on sale for that day only. It's a great way to get very good products cheap. Last Memorial Day I picked up a LMT upper (less BCG) for $345 shipped. On Fathers day PSA had stripped lowers for $49 plus $7 for shipping. I bought several. They also had F/A BCG's for $99, and MOE LPK's for $52, Surplus Arms had Aero Precision SS uppers 1/8 twist w/an MOE handguard, BCG & charge handle $362 shipped. I bought one but should have bought a few more because they've gone up $80 since then.

Aim Surplus has Spikes lowers for $79.95 with free shipping. So there are a lot of deals out there but you have to spend a lot of time searching and have a lot of paper to figure the best prices for what you want.

Good Luck and good searching, it's mind boggling at first but it will all come together eventually.

crsuribe
08-23-2011, 09:43
Yeah that's what I've been doing but haven't really found a lot of reliable info anywhere but here. My google fu certainly didn't turn up PSA, so I was almost set on that M&P lower. Now I'm really interested in PSA.

Of course, I will continue to research stuff until the funds become available and I start making my final decisions. Though if PSA does something special for labor day, I will most definitely jump in on that for the lower.

Jerry
08-23-2011, 11:04
I'm not buying an AR, I'm building one liiiiiiiiiittle by little. If I wait until I have the funds to just buy all the cool stuff to put together a Noveske-like quality AR, it'll be a few years before I'm able to place the first order.

But if I go with the more humble stuff, not only will I have my AR within a year or so, but I'll be able to learn it the way I like to learn everything.

I don't wanna start at the end of the road. I wanna get to the end of the road eventually, by working my way up!

But, AGAIN, I really appreciate your suggestions and will come back to this thread to retrieve that information when I'm ready for it. So thank you Sir!

Since you’re building your own AR you’re probably quite capable of this trigger modification http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm . I was looking at $200.00 + triggers when I came across the article. I figure it’s worth a try and will be doing it to my Colt my next day off from work. Like the guy says, if I don’t like it I’ll be out a few bucks for new springs... or I’ll just buy one of the triggers I was looking at when I have the $$$$. If I like it I just saved $$$$$. Anything HAS to be better than the creepy, draging, rough, hard pulling stock trigger.

Best of luck with your build.

broham25
08-23-2011, 12:03
OP - I just finished putting together my second AR on a budget. You can buy quality parts and build an extremely reliable AR for between $600 - $700. I used and LRB arms lower. I have used this lower on both builds, but only because I already had them. Here's a complete parts list with prices:

LRB arms lower : $50

PSA Complete Lower parts kit : $100 (includes Buffer tube, spring, GI 6position stock, and buffer too!)

Spikes 16" Complete Carbine upper w/ magpul handgaurds : $500

Magpul rear sight : $30

Total : $680

Spikes is another company to check out. All of their uppers are built to mil-spec and are quality. They are very affordable too. I also happen to live about 45 mins. away from them so I like that. Even if I didn't though, I'd still reccomend them. Check out this website for Spikes uppers. They go in and out of stock very quickly, but you set it up to have them e-mail u when things come back in stock. PSA uppers are quality too. I would say Spikes and PSA are on the same level and are both very affordable.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/

I will post some pics later tonight of my lastest build. It is storming really bad right now and I cant get outside for pics. I hope this helps a little at least.

P.S. Stocking up on mags and ammo will put u over your budget but it is a neccessary purchase. You cannot have too many mags. D&H makes a magazine and most of them have the magpul followers out of the p-mag. I have seen P-mags crack just like everything else so I don't waste my money on them. :upeyes: I also second the notion that it is def not neccessary to buy an aftermarket trigger, not now anyways. $170 buys a lot off ammo! :supergrin: Good Luck with your build, my friend!

Added some pics. I put my Troy fixed sight on it instead of the Magpul.

http://s1093.photobucket.com/albums/i423/broham25/

crsuribe
08-23-2011, 22:23
Spikes looks awesome man. Thank you Jerry and Broham. Yeah that trigger job seems interesting. If it has the same effect the $.25 trigger job did on my Glock trigger, I'll be very happy!

eracer
08-24-2011, 03:57
I'm not buying an AR, I'm building one liiiiiiiiiittle by little. If I wait until I have the funds to just buy all the cool stuff to put together a Noveske-like quality AR, it'll be a few years before I'm able to place the first order.

But if I go with the more humble stuff, not only will I have my AR within a year or so, but I'll be able to learn it the way I like to learn everything.

I don't wanna start at the end of the road. I wanna get to the end of the road eventually, by working my way up!

But, AGAIN, I really appreciate your suggestions and will come back to this thread to retrieve that information when I'm ready for it. So thank you Sir!Enjoy your build. It's a lot of fun. If I may make one more suggestion. Ammo prices are on the rise, and it would behoove you to budget a little money each month to start stocking.

Jerry
08-24-2011, 11:49
Spikes looks awesome man. Thank you Jerry and Broham. Yeah that trigger job seems interesting. If it has the same effect the $.25 trigger job did on my Glock trigger, I'll be very happy!

I just finished doing the trigger work. Pretty simple and easy. Itís by no means a bench-rest shooters trigger but its a really nice improvement over what I started with. I could do some stoning and tweak the spring for an even better trigger but for now I happy with it. I just saved $$$$. :supergrin:

crsuribe
08-24-2011, 12:40
Nice!! Thank you for sharing that! I'll definitely try it myself when I put my lower together.

KiltedSoule
09-01-2011, 13:20
My advice...use google to search every form of AR parts, ex: "complete uppers", "stripped lowers" "full auto BCG's" etc, and you will find an arms length of gunshops, manufacturers, outlets,and every place that sells AR's or parts. Then spend hours searching those sites learning about the different features, pros and cons, reviews, about the products available.

From there, pick out what you like, and then sort everything out by prices. You'll find that one place will have a deal on lowers but they'll be a bit higher on their uppers. Other places will have BCG's and LPK's at a better price. Take everything on your list and price each place including shipping to get a bottom line price. It may turn out it's better to buy everything at one place even though say the BCG and stock assembly are more than store B.

Another thing, hit the search functions on a holiday. Many stores put uppers and lowers on sale for that day only. It's a great way to get very good products cheap. Last Memorial Day I picked up a LMT upper (less BCG) for $345 shipped. On Fathers day PSA had stripped lowers for $49 plus $7 for shipping. I bought several. They also had F/A BCG's for $99, and MOE LPK's for $52, Surplus Arms had Aero Precision SS uppers 1/8 twist w/an MOE handguard, BCG & charge handle $362 shipped. I bought one but should have bought a few more because they've gone up $80 since then.

Aim Surplus has Spikes lowers for $79.95 with free shipping. So there are a lot of deals out there but you have to spend a lot of time searching and have a lot of paper to figure the best prices for what you want.

Good Luck and good searching, it's mind boggling at first but it will all come together eventually.


PSA has their lowers on sale again for $49 through labor day.

madecov
09-01-2011, 21:51
PSA lower parts kit actually has a very decent trigger for a military style single stage.

I've built 4 guns on them. I have been pretty pleased with the product overall.
I ahve also built using Spikes and Stag lowers.

Right now the PSA $50.00 lowers are a bargain. AIM is supposed to be getting some Spikes Blems in the next week or so.

120mm
09-01-2011, 23:01
I think the OP is doing well to be considering BCM, PSA and Spike's for his upper choices.

BCM buys you peace of mind, but I haven't seen any objective data that shows PSA or Spike's has a bad product.

Javelin
09-02-2011, 10:26
Well surf, that's a difference between us. I think owning an AR with an OEM FCG is like eating horsemeat. Yeah, it'll work....but why, when it's a relatively inexpensive and easy upgrade that adds so much value? I can practice fundamentals with a good trigger, and get better faster than I can with a creepy, gritty, heavy stock trigger.

I never noticed them to be gritty.....

blueberry1177
09-02-2011, 14:32
very nice! I plan on starting my build as well in the next week!

I'm definately one for going to the range with a new gun but to me building it is just as much fun to do. and at the end of the day you can say that you made it (sure you didn't fabricate any parts) but it is nothing more than a pile of parts until you put it together which is cool as hell.

anyways glad to hear there are more people here on GT doing the same thing! I'll post a thread of my build once things get rolling

Scattergun1187
09-02-2011, 20:20
Should I get a LMT lower to match the LMT upper?
Or should I go Frankinrifle style?

WoodenPlank
09-02-2011, 20:56
Should I get a LMT lower to match the LMT upper?
Or should I go Frankinrifle style?

I have an LMT upper with a Spike's lower, and no complaints. Get a matching LMT lower if that's what you want to do, or pick a different brand if you like someone else's markings better.

crsuribe
09-03-2011, 10:11
Just got this email...

Thank you for your order.

========== GENERAL INFORMATION ==========
Company: PALMETTO STATE ARMORY LLC
Order date: 9/3/2011

========== ORDER INFORMATION ==========
Payment By: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX (edited for safety)
Status: APPROVED - XXXXXX
Order: OnlineOrder_XXXX

Product Name: PSA AR15 Lower - Bullet Pictogram
Item#: 1560b
Unit Price: $49.95
Quantity: 1

Shipping & Handling: $7.00
Grand Total: $56.95

crsuribe
10-16-2011, 09:00
I got my lower receiver from my FFL the other day. We both had been too busy but it finally happened!

Edit: Crappy webcam pic cause I left my camera in the car (serial no. hidden):

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee56/crsuribe/snapshot-1.png
Bad quality pic, sorry about that. I am really impressed with how well made this part is. Very nicely finished.


Now, I was thinking about ordering one of these kits:

http://palmettostatearmory.com/2550.php

http://palmettostatearmory.com/2552.php (different barrel profile for some reason)

Or

http://palmettostatearmory.com/2520.php Hammer Forged

http://palmettostatearmory.com/2521.php Magpul MOE stuff (not sure if I like)

And this rear sight which is cheap and I can keep it on there even after I get a red dot or some sort of optic in the future.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/323.php


What do you guys think? Which receiver would you choose given the prices? I am leaning towards the kit with the Hammer forged barrel for $519. Is it worth the extra cash?

Thanks so much for all the help!!