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cfec2008
11-01-2011, 19:37
I have a hornady lock n load classic kit. Got it about three years ago, and I dont really know anybody close to me that reloads so I was wondering if yall could help me a little. I placed the hornady decapping and sizing die in the press. Placed about 3-16ths of the pin out, but when I operate the press the pin pushed back up into the die. Its threaded so how does it do that? I tightened the thing that the pin sits in. Sorry for the elementary questions. Im just starting. thanks to all in advance.

engineermike
11-01-2011, 19:48
on top of the die is a threaded piece called the spindle lock. You may have to tighten that. You can go to the Hornady web site and look for their videos on how to clean and set up their dies or go on youtube. I have to ask, didn't the dies come with instructions? (I'm guessing you have the dies with the zip spindle)

unclebob
11-01-2011, 19:51
What brand of sizer die do you have?

ron59
11-02-2011, 08:16
I have a Lee resizing-decapping die. The decapping pin is held in place by a different device. You have to tighten the hex shaped "nut" on top.

The resizing die is the one on the right. You'll need to have two wrenches, ideally. A larger one (3/4"?) to hold the die via the "flats" at the top of the die body, a second (7/16"?) to turn the hex "nut" at the very top. Really gotten tighten it hard.

cfec2008
11-02-2011, 20:45
Thanks, I finally got the primer out. I wasnt tightening the spindle or whatever its called enough. yes it came with instructions, but I had a hard time understanding them. I know im a moron. I dont deny it lol. I managed to get one round loaded, but my rifle would not close the bolt. its a bolt action ruger compact 243. maybe i didnt size it right...I dont know. This is being aggravating to learn on my own.

noylj
11-02-2011, 21:00
Take a decapped case. Loosen the collet at the top of the die so it is still held in place.
Place case in shell holder. Raise ram. Adjust until the decapper goes through the flash hole. With the case still in the die, tighten the collet as tight as you can. Use two wrenches to really tighten it. This way you have also aligned the decapping pin.
The idea is that the pin will slip up if you try to size a berdan-primed case or such.

steve4102
11-03-2011, 03:40
I managed to get one round loaded, but my rifle would not close the bolt. its a bolt action ruger compact 243. maybe i didnt size it right...I dont know. This is being aggravating to learn on my own.

There are basically two reasons for a handload not to chamber. The first and most common is an improperly sized case caused by the FL sizing die not being set up correctly. Odds are you do not have the die screwed into the press far enough to bump the shoulder back. The second reason is the round is too long, that is the bullet is coming in contact with the rifling before the bolt is closed. What is your OAL and what bullet are you using?

Colorado4Wheel
11-03-2011, 07:22
Learn one step at a time. Sizing should be checked in the barrel before you move on to the next. Read the instructions several times till you understand them. Read your reloading manual on what the steps should do. LEE has a great website with some information of what the process does. Once you understand what the process should be doing it easier to move forward with setting up your own equipment.

fredj338
11-03-2011, 10:21
There are basically two reasons for a handload not to chamber. The first and most common is an improperly sized case caused by the FL sizing die not being set up correctly. Odds are you do not have the die screwed into the press far enough to bump the shoulder back. The second reason is the round is too long, that is the bullet is coming in contact with the rifling before the bolt is closed. What is your OAL and what bullet are you using?

The third would be a case that is too long for the chamber & needs trimming, rare, happens on match cut chambers though. Along the same lines would be a match cut chamber that has min neck dia & your die isn't reducing the dia enough, also rare.
The decapping assembly on the Hornady is one reason I am not a fan of their dies. I prefer Redding for rifle, even a good set of Lee dies.

jmorris
11-03-2011, 12:18
maybe i didnt size it right...I dont know. This is being aggravating to learn on my own.


Get the ABC's of Reloading or another "how to" book and read it over until you have a pretty good understanding. If you think its aggravating to setup a bottle neck size die corectly without a casegauge wait until you stick one in the die because you didn't know to use lube.

For sommething more helpfull than "go learn more", if the brass you are trying to reload was fired out of the rifle you are reloading for, use a neck size die. This will ease the process and make the need to trim much less likely.

rpgman
11-03-2011, 12:28
Just keep asking if you have questions after reading the ABS's of Reloading.

The folks round here are very helpful and I asked every dumb question a new reloader could ask and I'm sure the pro's have answered those kinds of questions a thousand times over.

I have never NOT gotten an answer here.
Greg

jmorris
11-03-2011, 13:12
Just keep asking if you have questions after reading the ABS's of Reloading.


The folks round here are very helpful and I asked every dumb question a new reloader could ask

Yep, and there are no dumb questions but you need a bit of knowlege just to know what questions you need answered.

cfec2008
11-03-2011, 21:11
There are basically two reasons for a handload not to chamber. The first and most common is an improperly sized case caused by the FL sizing die not being set up correctly. Odds are you do not have the die screwed into the press far enough to bump the shoulder back. The second reason is the round is too long, that is the bullet is coming in contact with the rifling before the bolt is closed. What is your OAL and what bullet are you using?
I know your gona freak when i say this but I dont have calipers yet and cant tell you what the OAL is. I did put it up to a factory loaded round and it looked exactly the same just by eye balling it. I DID NOT put powder in this round, and had no intention on firing it. I did this just to see if I could get one reloaded and get my bolt to close normal.
I am using hornady 150 grain interlock bullets. Fired once brass, that I fired my self.

cfec2008
11-03-2011, 21:18
What brand of sizer die do you have?
I use hornady dies. Hornady Lock and Load kit. CCI primers. Once fired brass that I fired. I did load 6 308 rounds this evening. My 308 is a Remington model 700 glass lined barrel. The 308 closed the bolt on all six rounds, BUT they bolt was more hard to close than factory loaded rounds.
I loaded these with 40.4 grains of Hodgdon Varget. The Hornady book says that it should be @ 2500 foot per second. I thought this might be a safe load.
A guy from work is going to fire them. I told him to wear bomb proof clothing, and a helmet. lol..A guy who knows how to reload is going to look at the reloads before he shoots them.

engineermike
11-03-2011, 22:28
Not much of a "moron" you came here for answers...

jmorris
11-03-2011, 22:30
Do yourself and maybe your buddy a favor and get a case gauge for the rounds your loading. You set the size die so a case drops in and the base is in spec, then flip it over and make sure it is in spec on length. Your hard to close bolt could be brass that is not sized enough (not a big deal on a bolt gun) or a case that is to long having the neck forced into the lead, this can be a big deal.

steve4102
11-04-2011, 06:19
Take one of your fired cases. Lube and size, wipe off lube. See if the empty brass will chamber with ease. I'm guessing it will be hard to close the bolt. If so, screw the FL die into the press about 1/16-1/8 turn. Lube and FL size the case, remove lube. See if it chambers. If so then lock the die down and you should be good to go. If still stiff, repeat the above procedure until it does chamber with ease.

cfec2008
11-04-2011, 09:29
Take one of your fired cases. Lube and size, wipe off lube. See if the empty brass will chamber with ease. I'm guessing it will be hard to close the bolt. If so, screw the FL die into the press about 1/16-1/8 turn. Lube and FL size the case, remove lube. See if it chambers. If so then lock the die down and you should be good to go. If still stiff, repeat the above procedure until it does chamber with ease.
ok I did what you said to do. I screwed the resizing and decapping die just a little everytime I tried it in the gun until the empty brass would allow my bolt to close better. Its about twice as good as it was, but heres whats up.
Before you told me this, I had the die set up so that 3-16 of the decapping pin was below the die. I had the die set down in the press so that at the highest point of the ram the shell holder would barely make contact with the die. Now that I have screwed the die down futher, it is hard as crap to push the lever all the way down because the shell holder is pushing like crazy against the bottom part of the die. So is that ok? Its really hard. Thank you for your help.

PCJim
11-04-2011, 13:08
CF, the resizing die must make contact with the shellholder or shellplate in order to properly resize the case. Generally speaking, the ram with shellholder is raised to its highest point and the die is then screwed down until it makes good contact with the shellholder. Lower the ram, then screw the die in an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn and lock the die in place. This creates a small amount of "cam over", where the ram will make contact with the die and the press's lever will move a slight bit more after that contact is made. It removes any play in the linkages, but should not be so much that it makes it "difficult" as you have stated.

The depriming pin is not to be used as the reference by which the die is adjusted for sizing. The depriming pin should be set to extend appx 3/8" beyond the bottom of the die to insure that it is able to completely pop the spent primer out of the pocket.

cfec2008
11-04-2011, 22:42
ok, here is what ive done this evening. I managed to stick a case in my 308 die. So I then went back to the 243 dies. I did adjust my 243 resizing die to where my gun would chamber the case much easier. Almost as easy as a factory loaded cartridge. What I did to achieve that was back my die back out of the press about 4 turns, and then extend the decapping pin so that it would knock out the old primer.
The instructions and yall tell me to set the bottom of the die down on my shell holder, but when I do that my guns dont want to let the bolt fold shut without it being abnormally tight. So holler back at me so ill know what you think about what ive done. I did load powder and set the bullet in two 243 cases. 30 grains of imr 4064. If I remember right, I think the Hornady book rated those at 2600 fps. Id really like to shoot these, but i'm to afraid.

cfec2008
11-04-2011, 22:54
Get the ABC's of Reloading or another "how to" book and read it over until you have a pretty good understanding. If you think its aggravating to setup a bottle neck size die corectly without a casegauge wait until you stick one in the die because you didn't know to use lube.

For sommething more helpfull than "go learn more", if the brass you are trying to reload was fired out of the rifle you are reloading for, use a neck size die. This will ease the process and make the need to trim much less likely.
hey jmorris, if you didnt read my last post. I stuck a case in my 308 die today. lol wow what a pain in the ...... I coudnt believe I done that after reading your reply. Oh well. Live and learn I reckon.

steve4102
11-06-2011, 02:50
ok, here is what ive done this evening. I managed to stick a case in my 308 die. So I then went back to the 243 dies. I did adjust my 243 resizing die to where my gun would chamber the case much easier. Almost as easy as a factory loaded cartridge. What I did to achieve that was back my die back out of the press about 4 turns, and then extend the decapping pin so that it would knock out the old primer.
The instructions and yall tell me to set the bottom of the die down on my shell holder, but when I do that my guns dont want to let the bolt fold shut without it being abnormally tight. So holler back at me so ill know what you think about what ive done. I did load powder and set the bullet in two 243 cases. 30 grains of imr 4064. If I remember right, I think the Hornady book rated those at 2600 fps. Id really like to shoot these, but i'm to afraid.


This is partial neck sizing not FL sizing. For FL sizing you need to screw the die into the press till it touches the shell holder plus+plus++plus until it chambers. The press should cam-over and should take some effort. If the press is camed-over and your brass is still hard to chamber then your die or chamber may be out of spec. You can remove some material off the top of the shell holder or the bottom of the die. Or you can contact the die manufacturer.

Colorado4Wheel
11-06-2011, 07:26
Do you have a real book about reloading and have you read it and understand it?

cfec2008
11-06-2011, 08:33
This is partial neck sizing not FL sizing. For FL sizing you need to screw the die into the press till it touches the shell holder plus+plus++plus until it chambers. The press should cam-over and should take some effort. If the press is camed-over and your brass is still hard to chamber then your die or chamber may be out of spec. You can remove some material off the top of the shell holder or the bottom of the die. Or you can contact the die manufacturer.



I dont have the tools to remove metal from parts the right way so I guess Ill just call hornady on Monday. I have to send them my 308 sizer die anyway. I did load a 243 case last night with the inside of the mouth lubed, and my bolt would close quiet a bit easier. I fired this round in the back yard.

Colorado4Wheel
11-06-2011, 09:39
So thats a NO.

You can remove the stuck case yourself.

F106 Fan
11-06-2011, 11:00
Here's one way to remove a stuck case:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piTWcqhH3No

Here's some more info (Google has a lot of hits for 'remove a stuck case from a resizing die'):
http://gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/ProcTapStuckCaseFromDie

RCBS dies tend to be the most difficult when it comes to removing a stuck case. You can try to screw the decapper in deeper and use it to drive the case out but it probably won't work.

Richard

jmorris
11-06-2011, 18:00
hey jmorris, if you didnt read my last post. I stuck a case in my 308 die today. lol wow what a pain in the ...... I coudnt believe I done that after reading your reply. Oh well. Live and learn I reckon.

That's what I was getting to in post #10. If you don't study history (reloading books in this case) you will be doomed to repeat the mistakes of those before you.

For many things in life it is far better to "learn and live" than "live and learn".

PCJim
11-06-2011, 19:07
A good friend of mine uses this statement...

'A fool learns from his mistakes, but a truly wise man learns from the mistakes of others'

cfec2008
11-06-2011, 19:42
Do you have a real book about reloading and have you read it and understand it?
I have read my Hornady reloading manual. I went to Hastings book store tonight to look for a reloading book, and they didnt have any. I may have to order it online. I have been doing a lot of reading online.
So I'm not just doing all this by trial and error alone. I knew to lube the case and simply forgot to do it. Now that I am lubing inside the mouth the bolt is closing a lot easier. I loaded 6 243 cases this evening. Everything went good. Thank you all for your help.

cfec2008
11-06-2011, 19:46
Here's one way to remove a stuck case:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piTWcqhH3No

Here's some more info (Google has a lot of hits for 'remove a stuck case from a resizing die'):
http://gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/ProcTapStuckCaseFromDie

RCBS dies tend to be the most difficult when it comes to removing a stuck case. You can try to screw the decapper in deeper and use it to drive the case out but it probably won't work.

Richard
Thanks man I really appreciate that.

cfec2008
11-07-2011, 19:57
reloaded 12 308 cases tonight. Took my stuck case to my 1st cousin which is a machinist, and he got the case out realy quick. When resizing my cases some fit great in my chamber, and some were a little to snug. I re lubed the cases and resized again. They all came out great. I think my lubing has a lot to do with some fitting great the first time and having to resize the rest.
Ive been a little shy of the lube, and dont think that I have been applying enough. Slowly but surely Ill get it down pat. I will be firing these 12 new reloads to see how tight of a group they hold. 150 grain hornady interlock, 42.6 grains of Varget. cci primers, once fired brass.

jmorris
11-08-2011, 07:02
When resizing my cases some fit great in my chamber, and some were a little to snug. I re lubed the cases and resized again. They all came out great. I think my lubing has a lot to do with some fitting great the first time and having to resize the rest.

Did you get a case gauge yet?

cfec2008
11-08-2011, 19:22
Did you get a case gauge yet?


No I do not. After I read your reply I got on youtube and saw how they were used. I see that it's something that I dont need to be without. I assume that I will need to full length resize when using this. I will get on asap.

PCJim
11-08-2011, 19:39
You need a caliper more than you need a case gauge. I'm beginning to wonder if you have checked your cases for excessive length, or for excessive COL where your bullets may be engaging the lead / rifling. Both will cause hard chambering as was mentioned much earlier in thus thread. Eyeballing COL with a factory round leaves room for error. Are there any rifling marks on any of your chambered but unfired, removed and examined cases?

unclebob
11-08-2011, 20:18
I think the biggest question is has the OP read any books on reloading?

cfec2008
11-09-2011, 16:44
I think the biggest question is has the OP read any books on reloading?
I said allready that I went to a huge bookstore where I live and looked for one, and there was 0 there. I have been doing a ton of reading online, and have read my Hornady book. If it's bothering you that I have not done everything that you think I should have then dont bother reading this thread. Give me a break man.

cfec2008
11-09-2011, 16:49
You need a caliper more than you need a case gauge. I'm beginning to wonder if you have checked your cases for excessive length, or for excessive COL where your bullets may be engaging the lead / rifling. Both will cause hard chambering as was mentioned much earlier in thus thread. Eyeballing COL with a factory round leaves room for error. Are there any rifling marks on any of your chambered but unfired, removed and examined cases?

I bought a caliper today. I have checked the bullets for marks and there aren't any. I havent had the chance to check the oal on my reloads yet. I've only been home a few minutes.

unclebob
11-09-2011, 19:29
I said allready that I went to a huge bookstore where I live and looked for one, and there was 0 there. I have been doing a ton of reading online, and have read my Hornady book. If it's bothering you that I have not done everything that you think I should have then dont bother reading this thread. Give me a break man.

Sorry but I did not read all the post that you made or some other ones. Other people have also said for you to get ABC of reloading Etc. So I guess that makes us even.
No it does not bother me one bit. Iím not the one producing or shooting your ammo, you are. Granted you asked the questions, but sometimes you may not like the answers you get.
If you live in a Liberal state or town or the manager of the store does not like guns you may not find anything to do with gun. Or any conservative point of view. You will have to order the books.

jmorris
11-10-2011, 08:40
If it's bothering you that I have not done everything that you think I should have then dont bother reading this thread. Give me a break man

We really are trying to help. Like my post about sticking a case 2-3 days before you got around to sticking one, we can tell you why you are having a problem AFTER you have one or you could get a good book and know the soultion BEFORE you have a problem.

F106 Fan
11-10-2011, 09:01
I said allready that I went to a huge bookstore where I live and looked for one, and there was 0 there. I have been doing a ton of reading online, and have read my Hornady book. If it's bothering you that I have not done everything that you think I should have then dont bother reading this thread. Give me a break man.


Hornady is a pretty good book. I keep it handy... The powder burn rate table on page 38 is particularly interesting when we discuss things like Bullseye versus Titegroup. There's a discussion of OAL versus pressure on pages 24-26. This is definitely a quality book.

I would be very cautious of stuff I got from the Internet. Including this...

Bookstores are unlikely to carry books of such limited distribution. However, most gunstores have, at least, the RCBS manual and perhaps the Hornady manual.

I got my Lyman #49 directly from Lyman and my Sierra Edition V (with ballistic software) by way of Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/5th-Manual-INFINITY-Sierra-0506/dp/B001DEARFK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1320939901&sr=8-8

The Sierra manual without the software is here:
http://www.amazon.com/SIERRA-5TH-RIFLE-HANDGUN-MANUAL/dp/B000FW7RPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320939954&sr=8-2

Both the Speer and Lyman manuals are available at Midway:
http://www.midwayusa.com/Find?userSearchQuery=speer+manual

In fact, do a search for 'reloading manual' at Midway and you will find more manuals than you could possibly need. There are even some specialty manuals like those from Hodgdon, Nosler and Barnes.

There's plenty of material out there.

Richard