AR lube oil VS grease? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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M&P Shooter
11-07-2011, 12:47
I just oiled my new AR upper with CLP and made the bolt assembly wet(Not dripping) as instructed from other thread and every video I watched on Youtube but now the question............ I see half the people use oil and the other half use grease, what's better IYO?

Markasaurus
11-07-2011, 13:12
If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it. I'm sure a lot of people here have a lot more AR experience then me. But from everything i've seen, read, and heard, the best combination depends on just a couple things especially climate.

If you could have only ONE lube for some reason, my choice would be Mobil 1, 5-30 (the car oil). Because it may be the best all-around lube for almost all conditions. Most importantly, it will work in very cold conditions where other lubes will freeze solid.

In summer temperatures, a lot of people prefer this combination: use grease on: the bolt carrier slide rails (the points where they touch inside the receiver), the bolt tail area, and the cam pin. I also prefer a drop of CLP or mobil 1 on the bolt rings and the firing pin.
Every moving part in the lower receiver gets a drop of clp or oil, with a dab of grease on the hammer face where it contacts the bolt.

Also if you like, you can remove the buffer and spring and give it a light coat of grease - this sometimes helps eliminate that "BOINGGG" sound some AR's make when fired.

As for what grease to use, almost everyone has their favorite high-speed, specialty gun grease they prefer and most of them do the job fine. But in above zero conditions automotive, moly-additive wheel bearing grease is perfectly fine. A can is like $4 and a life-time supply for an AR. Here's some more info and opinions,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g

pag23
11-08-2011, 19:11
I pretty much agree with the above post of where to put grease. I use a little dabbing of TW25 grease for those guns that I don't shoot that often but in addition still lube them with MPro7 or Milcomm. My usual shooting guns just get a lube with oil... haven't got Slip 2000 yet but heard good things.

It all depends on your usage/areas of wear. There are numerous posts you can search for which discuss this topic. I did and it helped me

jing1117
11-08-2011, 19:43
If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it. I'm sure a lot of people here have a lot more AR experience then me. But from everything i've seen, read, and heard, the best combination depends on just a couple things especially climate.

If you could have only ONE lube for some reason, my choice would be Mobil 1, 5-30 (the car oil). Because it may be the best all-around lube for almost all conditions. Most importantly, it will work in very cold conditions where other lubes will freeze solid.

In summer temperatures, a lot of people prefer this combination: use grease on: the bolt carrier slide rails (the points where they touch inside the receiver), the bolt tail area, and the cam pin. I also prefer a drop of CLP or mobil 1 on the bolt rings and the firing pin.
Every moving part in the lower receiver gets a drop of clp or oil, with a dab of grease on the hammer face where it contacts the bolt.

Also if you like, you can remove the buffer and spring and give it a light coat of grease - this sometimes helps eliminate that "BOINGGG" sound some AR's make when fired.

As for what grease to use, almost everyone has their favorite high-speed, specialty gun grease they prefer and most of them do the job fine. But in above zero conditions automotive, moly-additive wheel bearing grease is perfectly fine. A can is like $4 and a life-time supply for an AR. Here's some more info and opinions,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXIsKEHo-4g


This is what I have been doing since I watched the video. I have never had any malfunctions or runny oil in my rifle since then. Usually I run my rifles up to 500 rounds on one outing and they still function perfect. I clean my rifles after each outing so I have not reached the thousand round count stated in the video - one of these days I will purposely try to just use one rifle for all my practice sessions and not clean it, just to see what is the failure point of the rifle using grease.

Glockz0r
11-09-2011, 22:00
I use automotive high temp wheel bearing grease on my AR15 bolt carrier group and hammer while I put small amounts of CLP on trigger group parts that move. I like using grease as it stays put during application while the CLP I have is in an aerosol can (never again!). I slow fire the rifle (range rules) so I can't say one way or another what form of lube is the best overall.

MStarmer
11-10-2011, 11:09
I've always been a fan of grease, something like militec, rig, wilson and more recently Slip2000. I hate coming back to one of my AR's in the safe and find the stock and charging handle with the oil running down. I oil when I shoot and store them pretty dry with a very light coating of oil and a dab of grease on the moving parts. That way they are protected, always ready to go and no oil running all over.

Most of us aren't taking our guns to Iraq or any other real hostile environment. I figure the most I would need in any event would be a few shots at most. If I'm going to take a class or a long range day then I run it wet like everyone else.

Cole125
11-10-2011, 11:17
Your over thinking this one. Cover the whole bolt carrier in CLP and ripe the excess and go break it in. Once broken it, just put CLP where you see wear marks.

The more oil the easier it is the clean.

WayaX
11-10-2011, 11:23
As for what grease to use, almost everyone has their favorite high-speed, specialty gun grease they prefer and most of them do the job fine. But in above zero conditions automotive, moly-additive wheel bearing grease is perfectly fine. A can is like $4 and a life-time supply for an AR.

I keep a light coating of graphite-free Moly grease on the bolt, bolt-carrier, cam pin, and firing pin. I also use a good coating (but not excessive) of gunzilla or slip2000 (whichever happens to be on hand). This combination has worked in 100 degrees and as low as 14 degrees (never shot below that). It is also the combination I'm now using on my AKs and M1A.

matt_lowry123
11-10-2011, 11:39
I just use oil, but I only shoot up to 200 rounds or so at a time. I also clean it after I shoot it.

Skadoosh
11-10-2011, 15:23
Good thread

DieselNut
11-10-2011, 16:09
I've been using CLP on my latest AR. I haven't used grease on this one at all (spike's NiB BCG) just to see how it stands up to the claims. So far so good.

crazymoose
11-10-2011, 19:30
Never used grease on an AR. Had great luck with CLP, FP-10, or even full-synth motor oil. If I wanted lube that stayed put, I'd go with the Frog lube that everyone seems to rave about, or a high-viscosity motor oil.

My experience with grease on guns is that it attracts fouling and crud like a magnet, and AR's get dirty enough without the extra help. Good lubricants will hold particulate matter in suspension and aid in cleaning, whereas grease seems to turn into an abrasive paste when it gets dirty enough.

USMC03Grunt
11-10-2011, 19:38
What does your manual say to use? In my manual collection, CLP or LAW are mentioned in later years and in pre-CLP days, LSA is also mentioned. Grease is fine (and recommended BTW) for weapons like the M-14 and Garand but it's not referenced at all for an M-16.

Decguns
11-10-2011, 21:24
Back in 'Nam they used motor oil to keep the M16s running smoothly during sustained full auto fire on gun trucks. Worked for me in Iraq & Afghanistan. CLP is sticky, gummy crap. Try some 5W20 synthetic motor oil. It's the only gun lube you'll ever need.

monkeykevin
11-11-2011, 16:51
High Temp Ball Bearing Grease

Why? Because my buddy told me too. He tell's me EVERYONE uses grease in the sandbox because it sticks and the hot temperature with sand eats oil away like no other. And on top of that Glock are like Honda Civic all over the world from what he tell's me. ^_^

Who's the Buddy: XE (Black Water) Contractor

He also "did" say since I'm a mall ninja it really doesn't matter which lube(Slip EWL) I use since my life and the climate here(Washington) is forgiving unlike the Ancient Lands of the Gods.

MStarmer
11-12-2011, 01:08
In the one article Vagisil worked, it's not very tacti-cool though...

M&P Shooter
11-12-2011, 09:07
In the one article Vagisil worked, it's not very tacti-cool though...
You just made me think of the Nascar episode on South Park:rofl:

STI
11-12-2011, 09:22
I am outdated, I have been using LSA for 30 yrs and never had a problem, it just works. Too old to change with 2 gallons of it still on hand.

MStarmer
11-12-2011, 11:06
It boils down to anything works. Some things clean better, some things protect better and some things smell better. Just like a Glock I don't think AR's are that picky as long as you are running something.

Jerry
11-12-2011, 11:48
If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it. I'm sure a lot of people here have a lot more AR experience then me. But from everything i've seen, read, and heard, the best combination depends on just a couple things especially climate.

If you could have only ONE lube for some reason, my choice would be Mobil 1, 5-30 (the car oil). Because it may be the best all-around lube for almost all conditions. Most importantly, it will work in very cold conditions where other lubes will freeze solid.

In summer temperatures, a lot of people prefer this combination: use grease on: the bolt carrier slide rails (the points where they touch inside the receiver), the bolt tail area, and the cam pin. I also prefer a drop of CLP or mobil 1 on the bolt rings and the firing pin.

Every moving part in the lower receiver gets a drop of clp or oil, with a dab of grease on the hammer face where it contacts the bolt.

As for what grease to use, almost everyone has their favorite high-speed, specialty gun grease they prefer and most of them do the job fine. But in above zero conditions automotive, moly-additive wheel bearing grease is perfectly fine. A can is like $4 and a life-time supply for an AR. Here's some more info and opinions,


:thumbsup: That pretty much says it. Everyone has their preferences of oils, greases and where and when to use them. I solve that dilemma years ago. An old time shooter, 1911 competitor gave me a tip. 30-W motor oil and STP. Its slick as cat poop and it stays where you put it. I switched to Mobil 1, because thatís what I use in my vehicles and STP. Iíve used it everywhere on every gun I own for over 15 years including my AR. It works! With that said Iíve just started testing (for my own use) Frog Lube. Iím not saying it the grates thing since sliced bread just yet but so far Iím pretty amazed by it. :popcorn:

punkey71
11-12-2011, 14:20
Your buddy is misinformed or lying. I can assure you EVERYONE in the "sandbox" is in fact NOT using grease. Do you really think that is true? Seriously. Do you think that is fact?

The nonsense on GT-AR15 is moving passed silly and going into to plain old ridiculous.

High Temp Ball Bearing Grease

Why? Because my buddy told me too. He tell's me EVERYONE uses grease in the sandbox because it sticks and the hot temperature with sand eats oil away like no other. And on top of that Glock are like Honda Civic all over the world from what he tell's me. ^_^

Who's the Buddy: XE (Black Water) Contractor

He also "did" say since I'm a mall ninja it really doesn't matter which lube(Slip EWL) I use since my life and the climate here(Washington) is forgiving unlike the Ancient Lands of the Gods.

Suburban
11-12-2011, 18:42
In the one article Vagisil worked, it's not very tacti-cool though...

That's the "Keep It Running" article by Pat Rogers (http://www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf).

So I figure if butter and sunscreen will work, then spending $80 for 16 ounces of weapons lube is stupid. So, like the guy in the video, I use hi-temp automotive grease. . . I just use a little more than he does. That stuff is like $5 a pound, or at least it was when I bought the tub about 8 years ago. I've only got about 13 ounces left (there's 16 ounces in a pound).

If you live somewhere where it drops to 20 below zero, skip grease, and try LSA or Slip 2000.

njl
11-12-2011, 18:46
Grease is thick and sticky. Imagine what grease mixed with wind blown sand would do to any moving parts. Sounds like a really bad idea.

Suburban
11-12-2011, 19:36
Grease is thick and sticky. Imagine what grease mixed with wind blown sand would do to any moving parts. Sounds like a really bad idea.

But at least it's not running out the bottom of the lower or into the buffer tube. You've still got something in the right spot providing lubrication. If you get stuck in a rainstorm, grease is less likely to get washed out. Lubrication is good, "sticky" keeps it where it's needed.


Oh, and I almost forgot. Most motor oils contain a carcinogen or two. Try not to get any on your skin.

crazymoose
11-13-2011, 18:06
Oh, and I almost forgot. Most motor oils contain a carcinogen or two. Try not to get any on your skin.

So do most gun lubricants. Used motor oil is the really unhealthy stuff you want to watch out for.

beatcop
11-13-2011, 18:31
If you're a weekend shooter at best, it doesn't matter if you shoot the thing dry....just put "something" on it if you want to reduce wear.

In '91 I was advised to run dry, in subsequent deployments run bolt very heavy.

I've tried ATF, wd-40, clp, militec, remoil, copier oil, etc. The clp family seems fine and stays put a little better. You will have sluggish operation in very cold weather though.

PS, do not try the copier oil, it turns into glue.

dc2integra
11-14-2011, 19:04
I use slip 2000 EWL that stuff works great.

WoodenPlank
11-14-2011, 19:23
I use slip 2000 EWL that stuff works great.

Yep, and it's not expensive, either.

Suburban
11-14-2011, 22:05
Yep, and it's not expensive, either.

Oh, I see the price has gone down, but $38/pint is still sort of expensive compared to $5/pound.

WoodenPlank
11-15-2011, 07:14
Oh, I see the price has gone down, but $38/pint is still sort of expensive compared to $5/pound.

$8 for a 4 ounce bottle of standard S2k gun lube will last a pretty darn long time.

njl
11-15-2011, 08:38
$8 for a 4 ounce bottle of standard S2k gun lube will last a pretty darn long time.

Yeah...but a quart of Mobil-1 is cheaper and will last much longer.

droptrd
02-01-2013, 10:30
A few years late to the Thread...

I recently had a glock and a 500 fail on me - both for the first time - in 20F weather. Ive come to the conclusion it was the CLP that failed. Ive since switched to auto wheel bearing grease and mobile 1 5/30. Mostly WBG with a drop of Mobile here and there. I went out yesterday in 5F weather with the same guns and had zero failures. I find it hard to believe any commercial gun lubes can compete with automotive lubes. The Auto lube industry has pumped millions of $$ into testing and R&D. Oh and I paid $5.97 for a quart of Mobile 1 5W30 and $6.99 for a pound of High Temp WBG. Almost a lifetime supply of Lube for $13.

byf43
02-01-2013, 10:45
I have two (2) AR rifles. #6601 and #6721.

Both get CLP with a thin film of TW-25B where the BCG meets the upper receiver. No issues, sofar.

My ARs are range guns, punchin' holes in paper.

musclegto
02-01-2013, 10:45
noob question... would ballistol work just ask well? I have been using the stuff with miltech oil on my glock with no problems.

pat701
02-01-2013, 12:11
If it slides grease it, if it rolls oil it. Simple rules for all firearms.:supergrin:

faawrenchbndr
02-01-2013, 12:12
If it slides grease it, if it rolls oil it. Simple rules for all firearms.:supergrin:

+1,...... I've been saying that for YEARS!
Cold weather, either thin the grease or use oil only.

surf
02-01-2013, 12:28
I use a combo mixture and I make my own mixes. Operating environment temps dictate the exact mixture I use.

michael_b
02-01-2013, 14:54
Oh, I see the price has gone down, but $38/pint is still sort of expensive compared to $5/pound.

Smaller amounts are reasonable a little goes a LONG way. That stuff impressed me.


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