Best brand dies for .270 Win? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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kshutt
11-12-2011, 06:13
Guys, haven't been on GT much... just too busy these days! I did recently purchase my first .270 Win, and I've decided to reload for it. I still have an RCBS single stage press mounted on my bench from days gone by, so I just have one question from you rifle guys: What brand of dies do you recommend? I'm not concerned about the price, so leave that out of the equation. When I was at Bass Pro in OKC yesterday, I looked at Hornady (nice!), RCBS, Lyman, and Lee. I've heard the name Redding and a couple of others, so I don't know which way to go. I almost got the Lee set because they came with the FCD! :supergrin: Hope everyone is doing well. Getting ready for deer season on my end! :wavey:

Murphy's Law
11-12-2011, 06:40
Issues like this are similar to which car would you buy a "Ford" or "Chevy" consequently you'll get 10 different opinions. Myself and because I load on a Dillon, I like their carbide dies. However I see/hear many recommend the RCBS for overall uniformity and excellent sizing capabilities. Don't think you can go wrong with any of the big boys. :supergrin:

rhino673
11-12-2011, 06:44
Honestly , any of those that you mentioned will serve you well.

alwaysshootin
11-12-2011, 07:05
Honestly , any of those that you mentioned will serve you well.

True statement, especially for a hunting weapon. Myself, not sure why, but have always bought RCBS dies for rifle. With my BDL in .270 with RCBS dies, have got 1/2 groups @ 100 yards, from the very first loadings. Not sure I could ask for anything more!:supergrin:

ColoCG
11-12-2011, 10:00
Guys, haven't been on GT much... just too busy these days! I did recently purchase my first .270 Win, and I've decided to reload for it. I still have an RCBS single stage press mounted on my bench from days gone by, so I just have one question from you rifle guys: What brand of dies do you recommend? I'm not concerned about the price, so leave that out of the equation. When I was at Bass Pro in OKC yesterday, I looked at Hornady (nice!), RCBS, Lyman, and Lee. I've heard the name Redding and a couple of others, so I don't know which way to go. I almost got the Lee set because they came with the FCD! :supergrin: Hope everyone is doing well. Getting ready for deer season on my end! :wavey:


Again as others have said, I think any brand you mentioned will do fine. Myself, I have been using the same .270 Win RCBS die since 1968. It still works Great.

ThreadKiller
11-12-2011, 10:06
Bonanza Benchrest dies. Good stuff Maynard.

F106 Fan
11-12-2011, 10:16
I have a lot of RCBS dies and they have always worked well. I also have Dillon dies for my blue presses.

But, when I started loading my F-Class 6.5x284 NORMA, I went with the Redding Competition Neck Size set. Since the rifle is bolt action, full length sizing isn't necessary. These dies are definitely on the over-priced list but they are magnificent.

You asked about the best, irrespective of cost; I'll vote for Redding. But Hornady, RCBS and the other top brands work very well.

Richard

PCJim
11-12-2011, 12:19
I'm a fan of Lee's dies. Their four die rifle set gives you everything you would need - FL, neck only, seating and FCD. Their neck sizer is self aligning and has received a lot of good reviews.

More expensive doesn't always mean better.

Lord270
11-12-2011, 15:20
I first started reloading for my 270 win. and I have used the RCBS die set and from day one it has not let me down. I even reloaded some Ukrainian made brass and it flawlessly made them into some durn fine rounds. Just like the ones I have done with Winchester brass.

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Hoser
11-12-2011, 15:36
Redding or Forster.

Lockback
11-12-2011, 15:45
IMHO, Lee dies are the best out there.

kshutt
11-12-2011, 21:42
Fred, if you're tuned in to this thread, I'd like for you to weigh in, as well. Thanks to all for the replies so far. :wavey:

Zombie Steve
11-12-2011, 23:26
So hard to decide with them all being the same color.

kshutt
11-13-2011, 08:24
So hard to decide with them all being the same color. :supergrin: Awesome! :supergrin:

GIockGuy24
11-13-2011, 08:50
270 Winchester cases stretch a lot. They are long cases and full power loads are at magnum rifle pressure. Also to get maximum velocity from the cartridge slow powder is required and slow powder will stretch cases more than faster powders, even at the same pressures. A lot of trimming and chamfering required of 270 Winchester cases. My min 270 Winchester dies are 20 year old RCBS full length dies. I have heard the current quality is not what it used to be. I have had defective dies from every maker over the years though. Many years ago RCBS tried to come out with collet neck sizing dies and they were a total failure in design and didn't work and didn't hold up. The newer Lee collet neck sizing dies are a better, simpler design and they usually work. Lee quality control is often not up with the others but the price is cheap enough, if one doesn't work, just try another one. The worst 50 caliber Browning dies I had were RCBS. I replaced them with CH-4D dies which are the very best dies I've ever seen. Their standard 270 Winchester dies are $47.46. You can buy them from other dealers too.

http://www.ch4d.com/

kshutt
11-13-2011, 15:34
Since I don't really know what I need, should I purchase a 3 die set? I noticed that Redding has a deluxe set that has a full-length, neck size, and seater die. It appears with Forster you have to purchase them separately. I didn't find a set that contained the FL, NS, and seater. Also, how beneficial is it to pay the extra money for an inline micrometer seating die? I read a review that said the Forster was just as good as the Redding micrometer, but the cost was less. I'm just trying to get the most precise set-up, regardless of the cost. I don't want to pay extra or just waste the money, however, if the ammo isn't going to ultimately be more accurate. :dunno:

fredj338
11-13-2011, 18:22
Fred, if you're tuned in to this thread, I'd like for you to weigh in, as well. Thanks to all for the replies so far. :wavey:

For rifle dies, I typically go W/ Redding. The Lee neck dies are not bad, make good ammo, but may not be best for a hunting round that needs to chamber easily. So I would look to Redding FL dies & partial FL size for reliable functioning. Accuracy will be more than satisfactory.

Boxerglocker
11-13-2011, 19:11
I too would most likely go with Redding dies. The 3 die set. I would FL size the first time and just neck size the brass fired later out of my own gun.

Steve Koski
11-13-2011, 20:12
K,

I'm not into rifle reloading enough to know if any of those is better than the other. Sorry.

Koski

F106 Fan
11-13-2011, 20:33
I'm just trying to get the most precise set-up, regardless of the cost. I don't want to pay extra or just waste the money, however, if the ammo isn't going to ultimately be more accurate. :dunno:

The selection of dies is the least part of the problem when discussing accuracy. After all, the only die doing any work on the case is the resizer and often times that is simply neck sizing. There's so much more to making highly accurate ammo.

Neck turning, concentricity testing, primer pocket deburring, case capacity testing/sorting, and the list goes on and on.

Bullet selection is application specific. If you want to hunt, you probably won't want a target bullet (usually a HPBT) and you don't want a hunting bullet if you want very small groups at long distances. Bullet weight is usually a function of barrel twist.

It's kind of funny how powder charges work. You can load several different charges just 0.1 gr apart and one of them will have a much smaller group than the others. One look at the target will tell you which charge is right.

In the end, it comes down to how good is good enough. With a decent rifle you should be able to shoot one hole groups at 100 yards with just a modest amount of case prep, good neck sizing, precise powder measurement, a high quality target bullet and precise bullet seating.

As to neck sizing, I kind of like the Redding setup with interchangeable sizing bushings. I like to think I get the neck tension just right (even if I don't).

If you have a long distance range around your area, go ask the competitors what they use. Anybody shooting out to 1000 yards or so is making very good ammo. And they understand wind...

Richard

fredj338
11-14-2011, 01:35
The selection of dies is the least part of the problem when discussing accuracy. After all, the only die doing any work on the case is the resizer and often times that is simply neck sizing. There's so much more to making highly accurate ammo.

Neck turning, concentricity testing, primer pocket deburring, case capacity testing/sorting, and the list goes on and on.

Bullet selection is application specific. If you want to hunt, you probably won't want a target bullet (usually a HPBT) and you don't want a hunting bullet if you want very small groups at long distances. Bullet weight is usually a function of barrel twist.

It's kind of funny how powder charges work. You can load several different charges just 0.1 gr apart and one of them will have a much smaller group than the others. One look at the target will tell you which charge is right.

In the end, it comes down to how good is good enough. With a decent rifle you should be able to shoot one hole groups at 100 yards with just a modest amount of case prep, good neck sizing, precise powder measurement, a high quality target bullet and precise bullet seating.

As to neck sizing, I kind of like the Redding setup with interchangeable sizing bushings. I like to think I get the neck tension just right (even if I don't).

If you have a long distance range around your area, go ask the competitors what they use. Anybody shooting out to 1000 yards or so is making very good ammo. And they understand wind...

Richard
I have to disagree a bit on dies. Dies can matter. The exc straight line seating dies that use a collet to center the bullet will help give you a more uniform, concentric round. That always helps accuracy, far more than most brass prep IMO. Brass prep is for squeezing the last 0.1" group size out of a rifle. Buy quality brass to start with, like Lapua or RWS, they are about as uniform as you will ever find.
Powder charges can make a diff, hell, eveything makes a diff when it comes to precision rifle, but I have gotten 1/2MOA groups from strings of single rounds loaded with 0.2gr steps in charge wt. Of course beyond 300yds it shows up more than under, but powder charge isn't as important as bullet or powder choice. As I noted, the cheap Lee neck dies make pretty damn accurate ammo, but I do prefer Redding.

F106 Fan
11-14-2011, 08:20
I have to disagree a bit on dies. Dies can matter. The exc straight line seating dies that use a collet to center the bullet will help give you a more uniform, concentric round. That always helps accuracy, far more than most brass prep IMO. Brass prep is for squeezing the last 0.1" group size out of a rifle. Buy quality brass to start with, like Lapua or RWS, they are about as uniform as you will ever find.
Powder charges can make a diff, hell, eveything makes a diff when it comes to precision rifle, but I have gotten 1/2MOA groups from strings of single rounds loaded with 0.2gr steps in charge wt. Of course beyond 300yds it shows up more than under, but powder charge isn't as important as bullet or powder choice. As I noted, the cheap Lee neck dies make pretty damn accurate ammo, but I do prefer Redding.

I definitely agree on the bullet seater and I, too, prefer the Redding. In fact, I like the convenience so much that I bought a seater in 9mm for my 550B. Pretty expensive replacement for the Dillon seater but I like the micrometer adjustment.

I didn't mean to imply that dies were not important but, rather, that they are but one link in the chain. The best of dies are useless if the rest of the process isn't capable of producing accurate ammo. Of course, lesser dies are unlikely to produce good ammo regardless of component selection and case prep.

One thing I noticed with the Dillon seater is that I like the ability to drop out the internals without disturbing the adjustment. I like the idea of swapping the actual seating plug end-for-end to change between RN and SWC. There's a lot to like about the Dillon dies.

Based on a discussion on this forum a couple of weeks ago, I bought a Lee 9mm sizing die to handle the possible case bulge caused by Glocks. I don't currently have a Glock 9mm but I probably will at some point and I pick up a lot of range brass. the majority of which seems to have come from Glocks. I have yet to decide that the Lee does a better job than the Dillon or that the Dillon sizer doesn't produce a SAMMI compliant case. Some testing might be useful.

Richard

Zombie Steve
11-14-2011, 08:54
I can keep 180 grain mag-tips sub-moa out to 300 yards for my 30-06. Some of that is the rifle (free floated and a nice trigger), the other big part is the primer / powder / bullet combo. I do uniform the flash holes when I get new brass, and I square up the seating die before I lock it down, but I don't turn the case necks, anneal or anything like that. I'd say the rifle and the load make up about 90-95% of the performance. Everything else falls into that remaining 5-10%. Can the die help? Of course, but the differences from one brand to another are likely really small when you look at the whole picture.

fredj338
11-14-2011, 10:08
I can keep 180 grain mag-tips sub-moa out to 300 yards for my 30-06. Some of that is the rifle (free floated and a nice trigger), the other big part is the primer / powder / bullet combo. I do uniform the flash holes when I get new brass, and I square up the seating die before I lock it down, but I don't turn the case necks, anneal or anything like that. I'd say the rifle and the load make up about 90-95% of the performance. Everything else falls into that remaining 5-10%. Can the die help? Of course, but the differences from one brand to another are likely really small when you look at the whole picture.

You & F106 are correct, the best gear isn't going to make a poor shooter shoot well. Also a great shooter can't do much w/ the best ammo in a crappy rifle. Everything matters when putting together precision rifle ammo. If you have the ability & a rifle that will shoot factory match ammo into legit 1/2moa, then getting handloads to do a bit better isnt' all that diff & I always look to bullets first for pure accuracy loads. For hunting loads, I'll give up 1/2moa for a better terminal perfoming bullet.

F106 Fan
11-14-2011, 10:27
If you have the ability & a rifle that will shoot factory match ammo into legit 1/2moa, then getting handloads to do a bit better isnt' all that diff & I always look to bullets first for pure accuracy loads. For hunting loads, I'll give up 1/2moa for a better terminal perfoming bullet.

I have never had much success with factory match ammo. I am open to suggestions for .223, .308 and 6.5x284 NORMA. I have tried Federal Match in .308 and wasn't impressed. I couldn't find match ammo for the 6.5 so I tried a high end hunting load - totally useless. I have been shooting Federal bulk in the AR-15 and handloads in the .223 Precision Varmint.

In the .308, I think my Steyr SSG prefers 180 gr Sierra HPBT and my M1A probably prefers a much lighter bullet. I have never had great groups from my battle grade M1A except the time I bought a bunch of German NATO surplus (circa 1984). I took that stuff to Gunsite and had a great time shooting from the tree house at paint cans out at 800 yards. That ammo was superb. I had never shot that far.

I would like to find a small amount of quality match ammo in the 3 calibers just to see how they chrono and how well they group. Based on expected price, it will be a very small amount!

Richard

fredj338
11-14-2011, 13:59
I have never had much success with factory match ammo. I am open to suggestions for .223, .308 and 6.5x284 NORMA. I have tried Federal Match in .308 and wasn't impressed. I couldn't find match ammo for the 6.5 so I tried a high end hunting load - totally useless. I have been shooting Federal bulk in the AR-15 and handloads in the .223 Precision Varmint.

In the .308, I think my Steyr SSG prefers 180 gr Sierra HPBT and my M1A probably prefers a much lighter bullet. I have never had great groups from my battle grade M1A except the time I bought a bunch of German NATO surplus (circa 1984). I took that stuff to Gunsite and had a great time shooting from the tree house at paint cans out at 800 yards. That ammo was superb. I had never shot that far.

I would like to find a small amount of quality match ammo in the 3 calibers just to see how they chrono and how well they group. Based on expected price, it will be a very small amount!

Richard
Try Black Hills. I think they make ammo for the 6.5 & their 223 & 308 has a very good rep. I believe they use SMK in all.
Any factory ammo is going to be a compromise but usefull to establish a bench mark for accuracy in your rifle when you start handloading.