Got my underwood ammo in today, but doesnt feed well in my lwd barrel... [Archive] - Glock Talk

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arushus
11-17-2011, 12:30
My underwood ammo came in just now, and it must have a longer OAL, because nearly every round fails to feed. Ive been having this issue ever since I bought the barrel, but usually it was only one or two rounds per mag using winchester and hornady ammo. I dont blame the ammo, Im sure Ill be very happy with it, it is just this damn barrel is really starting to frustrate me. One or two ftf's per mag doesnt really bother me when im out plinking, but damn near every round is just too much to put up with. I wanna be able to reload the brass, and if I just shoot it through my stock barrel, in all likelihood Ill just end up with a bunch of unloadable brass due to glocksmiles, since this ammo is loaded to full power, or thereabouts.
Ive considered sending the barrel to lwd to look at, but Im afraid Ill end up with a barrel that isnt much better than my stock one since they will likely just over do it on the feed ramp, instead of just a good polishing to the top of the chamber, which is really all I figure it needs. Im afraid they'll send me my barrel back in such a shape that it no longer "fully supports" the round. I guess Ive just gotta get my hands on a dremel tool with some good polish and a good polishing wheel, and do it myself. Ive never done it before though, but what could really go bad with just a polishing wheel? Unless some of my fellow GT'ers that have worked on a LWD barrel before and know what theyre doing feel like helping a fellow out?!?!:whistling:

G29SF
11-17-2011, 13:02
My underwood ammo came in just now, and it must have a longer OAL, because nearly every round fails to feed. Ive been having this issue ever since I bought the barrel, but usually it was only one or two rounds per mag using winchester and hornady ammo. I dont blame the ammo, Im sure Ill be very happy with it, it is just this damn barrel is really starting to frustrate me. One or two ftf's per mag doesnt really bother me when im out plinking, but damn near every round is just too much to put up with. I wanna be able to reload the brass, and if I just shoot it through my stock barrel, in all likelihood Ill just end up with a bunch of unloadable brass due to glocksmiles, since this ammo is loaded to full power, or thereabouts.
Ive considered sending the barrel to lwd to look at, but Im afraid Ill end up with a barrel that isnt much better than my stock one since they will likely just over do it on the feed ramp, instead of just a good polishing to the top of the chamber, which is really all I figure it needs. Im afraid they'll send me my barrel back in such a shape that it no longer "fully supports" the round. I guess Ive just gotta get my hands on a dremel tool with some good polish and a good polishing wheel, and do it myself. Ive never done it before though, but what could really go bad with just a polishing wheel? Unless some of my fellow GT'ers that have worked on a LWD barrel before and know what theyre doing feel like helping a fellow out?!?!:whistling:

I have some boxes of Underwood ammo that is arriving today (11/17). I will take some with me while I am out deer hunting tomorrow and this weekend and shoot some of them. (Shooting in a different location than hunting!) I use KKM barrels, but can let you now how it works out. If I have feeding issues it is probably an ammo problem. Might be your barrel though.

Swamp Fox (mudrush) has said he sometimes has to polish up the LWD barrels so they feed better. That might all that it takes. I think he said he uses an abrasive toothpaste. There might just be some rough edges that need to be removed.

What gen gun do you have? What "year"? I see you have a G20SF... are all G20SFs Gen3? I have a G20SF that is a "2011" model. I can also shoot some of the Underwood ammo out of my stock barrel and let you know what it does to the brass.

One more thing... when a cartridge hangs up, you should be able to remove it carefully and inspect it. There might/should be marks on the case where it is hanging up. That will give you an indication where the barrel might be "rough around the edges".

OK, two more things... :) Let me know what ammo you bought. I did not buy any FMJ, but I did buy a couple of boxes each of the other stuff.

arushus
11-17-2011, 13:25
I have some boxes of Underwood ammo that is arriving today (11/17). I will take some with me while I am out deer hunting tomorrow and this weekend and shoot some of them. (Shooting in a different location than hunting!) I use KKM barrels, but can let you now how it works out. If I have feeding issues it is probably an ammo problem. Might be your barrel though.

Swamp Fox (mudrush) has said he sometimes has to polish up the LWD barrels so they feed better. That might all that it takes. I think he said he uses an abrasive toothpaste. There might just be some rough edges that need to be removed.

What gen gun do you have? What "year"? I see you have a G20SF... are all G20SFs Gen3? I have a G20SF that is a "2011" model. I can also shoot some of the Underwood ammo out of my stock barrel and let you know what it does to the brass.

One more thing... when a cartridge hangs up, you should be able to remove it carefully and inspect it. There might/should be marks on the case where it is hanging up. That will give you an indication where the barrel might be "rough around the edges".

OK, two more things... :) Let me know what ammo you bought. I did not buy any FMJ, but I did buy a couple of boxes each of the other stuff.

Im sure it is my barrel, it is just odd how much more prevalent it is with the underwood stuff. I think the underwood may just be slightly longer...

Im hoping all it takes is a little polishing, you can see on the top of the chamber where the rounds are hanging, there arent any rough spots, just some marks where the brass and or copper rubs off slightly, I can clean it really good, but you can still see the marks. Im thinking if I just polish this area up a little, it should be just fine. I really dont want to have to touch the feed ramp area...

Yes mine is a gen 3, and yes all sf's are gen 3's...my test fire date is 6-16-11.

When a round gets stuck, Ive taken a knife and scored the brass around the case as far as I can right next to the chamber as a way to tell how far the bullet makes it in, so I can pull the barrel out, and put that same round back in right to the point where it gets hung, and it is right after the edge of the case enters the chamber, maybe a millimeter of the top of the case is inside the chamber.

I bought three boxes of their 180gr fmj's, rated at 1300fps. The bullets are very "pointy" (for lack of a better word), they do have a flat tip, but every other fmj round Ive seen the diameter of the flat tip is a lot wider. I almost wouldnt put it past some dumb cop to try to accuse me of having armor piercing rounds! haha

G29SF
11-17-2011, 13:36
Im sure it is my barrel, it is just odd how much more prevalent it is with the underwood stuff. I think the underwood may just be slightly longer...

Im hoping all it takes is a little polishing, you can see on the top of the chamber where the rounds are hanging, there arent any rough spots, just some marks where the brass and or copper rubs off slightly, I can clean it really good, but you can still see the marks. Im thinking if I just polish this area up a little, it should be just fine. I really dont want to have to touch the feed ramp area...

Yes mine is a gen 3, and yes all sf's are gen 3's...my test fire date is 6-16-11.

When a round gets stuck, Ive taken a knife and scored the brass around the case as far as I can right next to the chamber as a way to tell how far the bullet makes it in, so I can pull the barrel out, and put that same round back in right to the point where it gets hung, and it is right after the edge of the case enters the chamber, maybe a millimeter of the top of the case is inside the chamber.

I bought three boxes of their 180gr fmj's, rated at 1300fps. The bullets are very "pointy" (for lack of a better word), they do have a flat tip, but every other fmj round Ive seen the diameter of the flat tip is a lot wider. I almost wouldnt put it past some dumb cop to try to accuse me of having armor piercing rounds! haha

Hmmm, I wonder if the pointy bullet is the problem. I think Blazer TMJs are the only "fmj" rounds I have shot, and they are a "flat" top.

arushus
11-17-2011, 13:40
Hmmm, I wonder if the pointy bullet is the problem. I think Blazer TMJs are the only "fmj" rounds I have shot, and they are a "flat" top.

Who knows? I havent heard of anyone else mentioning that as an issue. They are shaped odd for a .400" bullet. Almost like an ogive shape as opposed to the truncated cone shape of most .400" bullets.

TreyG-20
11-17-2011, 14:42
Don't worry about glock smiles to much. I have my gen 2 20 like that guys that KB the other day and I shoot Swampfoxammo mainly and all the brass I have barely even has a smile. I'll take a picture later and post it. I usually shoot the 135gr noslers at 1600 fps. But I shoot some of the 180xtps too. Granted they arent the fully supported chamber rounds he offers but they're still pretty hot

bustedknee
11-17-2011, 15:13
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d98/leflers/dremel.jpg
Drill baby drill.

arushus
11-18-2011, 10:10
Well I fired off 45 rounds of underwood 180gr fmj this morning through my stock barrel with a 22lb ismi recoil spring. I was disappointed, not with the power of the ammo, it is definitely full power. And I love shooting it. I dont know whether to be upset with my gun or ammo. The first mag I had 1 FTExtract, 2 stovepipes, and probably 5-6 FTFeed, the bullet would veer off to the left and get jammed on the left side of the barrel. The second mag was a little better, but still had 3-4 FTFeed. On the third mag, I finally decided I had probably ought to pack the mag to make sure all the rounds were all the way back against the back wall of the mag. And wouldnt you know it, the third mag ran perfect!
What really distresses me about the failures is, Ive never had one single failure of any sort using the stock barrel! And now I have all these problems with this ammo?!?! Regardless or whether or not the rounds were packed in the mag or not, I shouldnt have had this many problems, never have before when I ran a mag without packing it...I did have the 22lb recoil spring on a ss guide rod, but Im inclined to not blame all these failures on the damn recoil spring, no way could it have caused all that mess!
I think that this underwood ammo is quite a bit longer than other ammo, relatively speaking. Could someone with a caliper give me an overall length measurement on the underwood ammo? Any other ideas/opinion/advice would be appreciated!

ETA: I just got to looking inside the barrel, and there is quite a bit of unburnt powder left in the barrel. More than Ive ever seen with any other round, including .40cal tulammo. It is also fairly dirty, as dirty as any other 10mm ammo Ive fired...

ModGlock17
11-18-2011, 11:18
When I use my reloads at less than 1.250" OAL, the frequency of FTFeed increase significantly and contributing to the portion of FTFeed from LWD barrel. Then through experiments, I've found that 1.255" gives me the most reliable feeding.

On the portion from LWD (I believe), I rub 400grit or 600grit sand paper on the feeding ramp until the machine grooves no longer visible (20 times or so) and smooth to the touch. On my G29, StormLake barrel came ramp-polished as I recall and never had FTFeed attributable to it.

I also ditched the stock captive recoil spring, in favor of either Sprinco or Wolf rod and spring (19lbs).

I also polished the corners of the chamber part of the barrel so that it would slide smoother inside the slide.

No more FTFeed.

rcd567
11-18-2011, 11:26
Do you still have the stock spring? Return the Glock to the original configuration and see if that makes a difference. I'm kind of the thinking that if Glocks needed a 22lbs spring, they'd come with one. But I'm sure lots of folks will jump in here to the contrary.

I've shot a couple hundred of their 165gr. hollow points without a problem out of my stock 20sf. The 180 may be a different story, but I'll keep shooting the 165s until they raise the price.

arushus
11-18-2011, 11:39
Ill try stock spring next time, any other aftermarket parts on my gun shouldnt have any bearing on the gun's feeding, firing, and extracting.

drsjr1969
11-18-2011, 12:00
I have shot many Underwood's thru both the stock and 6 inch barrel LWD using a 22 lbs spring. I have had no FTF or problems of any kind. I will take a pair of calipers to them when I have a chance later today and see what I get.

4949shooter
11-18-2011, 12:03
You would think the "pointy" tip to this bullet would assist in the feeding, not hinder it.

https://www.underwoodammo.com/shop/index.cfm?carttoken=WH0XKHV111811110011&action=ViewDetails&ItemID=32&Category=19

Once you go back to the stock spring do keep us posted..

arushus
11-18-2011, 12:05
I have shot many Underwood's thru both the stock and 6 inch barrel LWD using a 22 lbs spring. I have had no FTF or problems of any kind. I will take a pair of calipers to them when I have a chance later today and see what I get.

Thanks! Ive never had these kinds of problems with this gun before...Even using swampfox ammo with the aftermarket lwd barrel the worst it ever got was maybe two failures to feed per magazine, NOTHING like the problems I had with the underwood stuff today...

arushus
11-18-2011, 12:07
I have shot many Underwood's thru both the stock and 6 inch barrel LWD using a 22 lbs spring. I have had no FTF or problems of any kind. I will take a pair of calipers to them when I have a chance later today and see what I get.
Have you shot the 180gr FMJ's? Last I looked I couldnt find any in your chrono list, just the hollowpoints..

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 12:48
Do you still have the stock spring? Return the Glock to the original configuration and see if that makes a difference. I'm kind of the thinking that if Glocks needed a 22lbs spring, they'd come with one.
+1
:popcorn:

dryfly
11-18-2011, 12:59
Hey Arushus dont give up on the gun just yet. Frustrating as hell I am sure.
I would go back to stock spring and stock barrel and start over.
Try with diff brands of ammo.
All of my issues cleared up using Swamp Fox premium 200 grain xtp at 100% stock glock.
I had issues with LW barrel and AM spring...
I had issues with stock barrel and AM spring...
I had issues with LW barrel and stock spring...
But when I went back to stock glock spring and barrel I have had zero issues...except I need more ammo and Mudrush isnt around....

Good Luck !

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:11
Hey Arushus dont give up on the gun just yet. Frustrating as hell I am sure.
I would go back to stock spring and stock barrel and start over.
Try with diff brands of ammo.
All of my issues cleared up using Swamp Fox premium 200 grain xtp at 100% stock glock.
I had issues with LW barrel and AM spring...
I had issues with stock barrel and AM spring...
I had issues with LW barrel and stock spring...
But when I went back to stock glock spring and barrel I have had zero issues...except I need more ammo and Mudrush isnt around....

Good Luck !

Ya, Im definitely gonna go back to stock spring and barrel. I have lots of trigger mods, but none of that will affect the problems Im having.

What is just really confusing is, Ive run swampfox, winchester, and hornady 10mm ammo through my lwd barrel and 22lb ismi recoil spring, and never had any consistent problems, just the occasional FTFeed, which occurred twice per mag AT THE MOST...

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:18
Im starting to wonder if perhaps it could have been a bad magazine and one hell of a coincidence. Maybe the first mag had a weak spring, and bad feed lips. And the second mag's rounds were seated really bad. Cuz the third mag that I packed correctly ran perfect. At least this is what Im hoping for! (Now that I think about it I should have marked the magazine I was having all the problems with).

I have seven mags, and it wasnt until Id had all of them for a while that the thought popped into my head that I probably should have marked and dated them somehow. So Id know which was the mags that came with it, which obviously are going to be the most used/worn out. From now on, when I buy mags, Im going to mark and date them.The next two or three I get will be kept new and in good shape as my defensive carry mags. The rest will be allocated to range mags that I dont care what happens to.

Any ideas on how to distinguish or mark mags somehow, besides buying the orange or blue colored base plates, since I dont wamt to spend much money trying to mark them. At some point in the future I will probably buy one or two of those custom mag plates with the designs on them that lonewolf offers, just for the hell of it.
Just had a thought, I bet fingernail polish would work well for marking the mags. Anybody else try this? Besides white what would be some good colors that would stand out? Perhaps any pastel colors would I guess?

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 13:27
Any ideas on how to distinguish or mark mags somehow, besides buying the orange or blue colored base plates, since I dont wamt to spend much money trying to mark them. At some point in the future I will probably buy one or two of those custom mag plates with the designs on them that lonewolf offers, just for the hell of it.
Just had a thought, I bet fingernail polish would work well for marking the mags. Anybody else try this? Besides white what would be some good colors that would stand out? Perhaps any pastel colors would I guess?
I usually have some "White Out" laying around the house. I simply put a stripe on the base plate of any suspect magazine. But, fingernail polish will work (and it can be removed with fingernail polish remover which is just acetone).

Still, if you can restore the gun to original OEM condition, you eliminate the "dog chasing its tail" effect. You need a clean baseline test (because your gun jams a lot more than my box stock G20 and G29 which have never had any real issues - including no Glock smilies, no stovepipes, or FTFs).

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:31
I usually have some "White Out" laying around the house. I simply put a stripe on the base plate of any suspect magazine. But, fingernail polish will work (and it can be removed with fingernail polish remover which is just acetone).

Great idea! Thanks! I just put some white out in my range bag...

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 13:33
Still, if you can restore the gun to original OEM condition, you eliminate the "dog chasing its tail" effect. You need a clean baseline test (because your gun jams a lot more than my box stock G20 and G29 which have never had any real issues - including no Glock smilies, no stovepipes, or FTFs).

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:35
Still, if you can restore the gun to original OEM condition, you eliminate the "dog chasing its tail" effect. You need a clean baseline test (because your gun jams a lot more than my box stock G20 and G29 which have never had any real issues - including no Glock smilies, no stovepipes, or FTFs).

Mine never has had one problem with the stock barrel either till now. The feed issues with the lwd barrel can be resolved with a little chamber polishing I believe...this ammo is really throwing my faith in my gun off...

cowboywannabe
11-18-2011, 13:47
the stock Glock barrels dont have a problem with full power 10mm, look at youtube and youll see lots of videos of a guy shooting his stock bbl and stock spring G20 with Buffalo bore and the like.....

its the "nuclear" or max loads that get smilies or improperly handloaded ammo.....

i have some of the old DT "black box" stuff that was suppose to be when they made ammo that met their claims....in my stock bbl i havent had any smilies....

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:51
the stock Glock barrels dont have a problem with full power 10mm, look at youtube and youll see lots of videos of a guy shooting his stock bbl and stock spring G20 with Buffalo bore and the like.....

its the "nuclear" or max loads that get smilies or improperly handloaded ammo.....

i have some of the old DT "black box" stuff that was suppose to be when they made ammo that met their claims....in my stock bbl i havent had any smilies....

I realize that the stock barrel works very well. Just even with the stock barrel my gun was having lots of issues with the underwood ammo, read the posts above. The only reason I like to use the lwd barrels is to mitigate any chances of ruining the brass for future reloads...

cowboywannabe
11-18-2011, 13:54
10-4.

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:57
I hope I didnt come off like an A-hole to you cowboy with the "read above posts" comment, I just wrote that so I wouldnt have to outline the whole story again, and you could get all the details from the previous posts about which issues I was having with which barrels. I never wanna come across like a dic.k to anybody, unless theyre mean to me first...:crying:

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:58
Hey, Im almost up to 1000 posts!

arushus
11-18-2011, 13:59
Almost...haha!

arushus
11-18-2011, 14:00
My 1000th post! Man, I need to get a life....

dryfly
11-18-2011, 14:08
Hey Arushus...you could purchase a second G20sf and experiment with both of them....
You will then most likely eventually figure out that there is nothing wrong with either of them and bonus you will have 2 WMD's instead of one. I cant decide if I want a second 20sf or a new 29sf myself...

Keep us posted and Good Luck!

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 14:11
Hey Arushus...you could purchase a second G20sf and experiment with both of them....

Yeah, if you weren't located halfway across the country, I'd help you test some of the nice factory ammunition in my G20SF and my G29SF :supergrin:. I wouldn't even charge you.

Do you have any local Glock 10mm friends? He might be on to something.

arushus
11-18-2011, 14:11
Hey Arushus...you could purchase a second G20sf and experiment with both of them....
You will then most likely eventually figure out that there is nothing wrong with either of them and bonus you will have 2 WMD's instead of one. I cant decide if I want a second 20sf or a new 29sf myself...

Keep us posted and Good Luck!

Haha, I like the way you think!!! That is an excellent idea!

We'll have to set up the "arushus diagnostic glock 20sf purchase" account for donations from fellow gt members...Im sure, since this was your brainchild, that you would be willing to put up the initial $100 donation, as well as dollar for dollar matching funds on every one else's donation, right dryfly?!?!

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 14:14
Haha, I like the way you think!!! That is an excellent idea!

We'll have to set up the "arushus diagnostic glock 20sf purchase" account for donations from fellow gt members...Im sure, since this was your brainchild, that you would be willing to put up the initial $100 donation, as well as dollar for dollar matching funds on every one else's donation, right dryfly?!?!
It sounds like you are assuming that once the test is done, that you end up with the test mule? No, no, no...

arushus
11-18-2011, 14:14
Yeah, if you weren't located halfway across the country, I'd help you test some of the nice factory ammunition in my G20SF and my G29SF :supergrin:. I wouldn't even charge you.

Do you have any local Glock 10mm friends? He might be on to something.

Well I just really appreciate the help you guys offer on here...but ya, it would be awesome if all of us ten ringers could get together and have a 10mm shoot off!!! It would be total destruction! The us government would probably think that north korea or iran were testing nuclear weapons!

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 14:17
Well I just really appreciate the help you guys offer on here...but ya, it would be awesome if all of us ten ringers could get together and have a 10mm shoot off!!! It would be total destruction! The us government would probably think that north korea or iran were testing nuclear weapons!
Please, I only shoot paper.
Will there be phone books at the Ten Ringer get together?
http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l496/Minervadoe/10mmTarget2.jpg

arushus
11-18-2011, 14:17
It sounds like you are assuming that once the test is done, that you end up with the test mule? No, no, no...

You cant make me share! :tongueout::tongueout::notlistening:

arushus
11-18-2011, 14:19
We could have everyone bring at least five phone books from their closest city with a population over 100,000...

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 14:29
We could have everyone bring at least five phone books from their closest city with a population over 100,000...
Yeah, you have to be careful what you shoot with 10mm. One of my Blue Dot loads opened up a spatial flexure one time. My city went from needing two phonebooks to only needing one in an instant. Those men in black had to erase a lot of memories on that one.:cool:
Oh, I shouldn't have told you. There may be knock on the door any time now. :cool:

arushus
11-18-2011, 14:39
Yeah, you have to be careful what you shoot with 10mm. One of my Blue Dot loads opened up a spatial flexure one time. My city went from needing two phonebooks to only needing one in an instant. Those men in black had to erase a lot of memories on that one.:cool:
Oh, I shouldn't have told you. There may be knock on the door any time now. :cool:

Huh? What? Whats going on? I blacked out for a second and when I came I had **** and pissed myself and have one hell of a headache...whats ur name, do I know you? Are you my mommy?

There is this really nice affectionate guy here who calls himself my uncle allen, he keeps hugging on me and wanting to wrestle, do I know him?

dryfly
11-18-2011, 14:42
The last time I shot at a telephone book with my 10mm every person and business listed in that book phones rang and then broke...

MinervaDoe
11-18-2011, 14:58
This...
http://www.wikimapia.org/#lat=35.024725&lon=-111.0246563&z=14&l=0&m=h

Arizona Crater Site
(not really from a meteor)

post-apocalyptic
11-18-2011, 18:14
I'm not sure why you're having malfunctions with 180gr FMJ Underwood 10mm, arushus. As others have said; try putting the stock recoil spring back in.

I've shot a couple hundred rounds of Underwood FMJ out of my 4.6" and 6" Glock barrels, (pistol is stock except for Trijicon night sights and a Talon grip), without any problems whatsoever.. and my G20-SF's SN is only 5 off of yours. They can't be that different.

The Underwood 10mm FMJ is great.. the bullet's shape enables it to penetrate that much better, (try shooting some cinderblocks and/or bricks with it ;) ).

ETA: you can fire Underwood 10mm, (so far I've tried 165gr JHP, 180gr FMJ, and 180gr JHP), through Glock barrels without worrying about a Glock-smile, or any other sign of overpressure. The recovered Starline brass is easily reloadable.

rcd567
11-18-2011, 18:15
Well I just really appreciate the help you guys offer on here...but ya, it would be awesome if all of us ten ringers could get together and have a 10mm shoot off!!! It would be total destruction! The us government would probably think that north korea or iran were testing nuclear weapons!


Uhm, nope...The last time three guys all fired their 10mm pistols at the same time a vortex appeared creating a reverse time continuim which resulted in the creation of a black hole. People who get too close are sucked in and sent back to 1987, right after the FBI tests which were won by the 10mm therefore thrusting the caliber into God like status.

Most of us don't have the hair for the 80's, let alone the parachute pants.:dunno:

post-apocalyptic
11-18-2011, 18:29
Uhm, nope...The last time three guys all fired their 10mm pistols at the same time a vortex appeared creating a reverse time continuim which resulted in the creation of a black hole. People who get too close are sucked in and sent back to 1987, right after the FBI tests which were won by the 10mm therefore thrusting the caliber into God like status.

Most of us don't have the hair for the 80's, let alone the parachute pants.:dunno:


Let's do it! We'll travel back to '87, smoke indoors without being treated like pariahs, buy some pre-ban Chinese AKs, mucho Microsoft stock, get our upcoming sport betting schedules in order, and maybe head up to Chicago to have a nice conversation with a certain "community organizer". :supergrin:

arushus
11-18-2011, 18:55
Let's do it! We'll travel back to '87, smoke indoors without being treated like pariahs, buy some pre-ban Chinese AKs, mucho Microsoft stock, get our upcoming sport betting schedules in order, and maybe head up to Chicago to have a nice conversation with a certain "community organizer". :supergrin:

haha, I like your style...

Mootness
11-18-2011, 19:37
Im starting to wonder if perhaps it could have been a bad magazine ...

Any ideas on how to distinguish or mark mags somehow, besides buying the orange or blue colored base plates, since I dont wamt to spend much money trying to mark them. At some point in the future I will probably buy one or two of those custom mag plates with the designs on them that lonewolf offers, just for the hell of it.
Just had a thought, I bet fingernail polish would work well for marking the mags. Anybody else try this? Besides white what would be some good colors that would stand out? Perhaps any pastel colors would I guess?

I use sticker labels. I cut a small corner or section off. Out of habit I number them, but what i pay attention to is the hash marks I place on them whenever a ftf happens. Eventually you'll end up with one magazine with all of the tally marks, if that's the issue.

notjustanothermini
11-18-2011, 20:43
get one of those "sharpie" brand metalic aluminum markers, they mark great on dark surfaced and supposed to have actual metal in them. but iether way they show up great and they dont come off, even with hoppes.

i found out about underwood too, 26 bux for a box of hot JHP's. best kept secret.

i shoot them through my eaa witness, with heavy recoil springs ,no issues at all, (and the witness is a tight toleranced gun to say the least!)

also the glock rocked them 100% also, but it is a 29, with wolf 21 pound spring/rod setup. i use this same spring weight for all the ten and 9x25 i shot, including hornady 155g and blazer 200g FMJ.

never an issue, so i think you recoil setup is fine.

but,,,, try this, my lone wolf barrel is wayy taller, as far as the front part of the top of the chamber (locking lug) and was a few thousands of an inch taller than the factory barrel hood. if i push down on the slide and rack it it will not drop low enough to unlock, straight back on the serations and it goes fine.

i looked at the underside of my LWD barrel and the ramp thickness is much more taller than the factory barrel, more so than the top is taller than factory.

i took a bit off the bottom by eye and such, with some 600 grit paper with some LP oil on it (made by clp, but just the Lube/Protect oil) and on a flat surface. even pressure so as not to angle the bottom, the bottom of the ramp is responsible for how much tilt will happen with the gun fully assembled . the top part also dictates this to a degree also.

i just made them factory height. i cant find my damned calipers, havent seen them for 2 months, but i know they are here somewhere. so sorry , i wish i could give m==you dimensions for the chamber height.

compare hyour two barrels, i am sure you will find the same.

the barrel being taller bottom and top, will cause a loss of slide velocity, coupled with a stronger spring, and it could slow to the point that it is hard to get the next round up the ramp.

i would assume, when you "seat the bullets in the mag against the back of it, the slide makes contact sooner with the round, and imparts more of its forward energy on it, moving it faster and harder, thus getting it up the ramp easier.

polishing never hurts, just be careful on things like connectore and trigger bars. cuzz....uh hum..... some guy i know..... went over board on his trigger bar on a SR40 and it was with 1000 grit paper too, he didnt think it was much but end result is my.....uh i mean "his" ruger is at prescot getting fixed (ruger wont sell a trigger bar for some reason!?!?)

the trigger bar lost just enough thickness to not get cammed down enough to loose engagment of the striker tab and release it.

sr40/sr9 is identical to a glock inside, except for the "chingasoo" that deactivates the sear so you dont have to pull the trigger to take apart.

arushus
11-18-2011, 21:06
Thanks for the advice. I dont plan on polishing anything except the top of the lwd barrel chamber

rcd567
11-18-2011, 21:12
I use sticker labels. I cut a small corner or section off. Out of habit I number them, but what i pay attention to is the hash marks I place on them whenever a ftf happens. Eventually you'll end up with one magazine with all of the tally marks, if that's the issue.


Years ago I went down to the local Ace Hardware store and for $4.99 I bought a cheap engraver. Works great to mark everything from tools to magazines.

notjustanothermini
11-23-2011, 15:44
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc482/notjustanothermini/DSCF7296.jpg
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc482/notjustanothermini/DSCF7313.jpg

thats the polishing i recomend for the LWD. also after you polish the chamber hood. the little size felt wheel will be small enough to just run it in and out of the chamber. carefull, run it for about 10-15 seconds in the chamber at a time. it will get to hot to hold if you really get on it hard.

you can read text fromt he computer screen in the reflection on the top of the barrel. i used 120 grit, then 220grit, then 320, 400, 500, 600, 1500, then 2000, i used oil when sanding on a flat surface like glass on a table. then i went to town with the mothers on a felt buffing wheel on a dremmel tool.

arushus
11-23-2011, 16:58
So were you able to sand off the cartoon character?

notjustanothermini
11-23-2011, 21:08
yeah kinda, i went like this.

80 grit, (i forgot to mention the 80 in the above post)

80 grit with some LP (safariland) for about 5 minutes, i used a sheet of glass to back the paper on the table. i went hard and fast back and forth.

then the same with 120, then same with 220, 320, 400, 500, 600, 1500, 2000. with the last two grits, (1500 and 2000) i used no LP oil on the paper, just dry. and i went about 10 minutes with each of these grits.

then i bought a dremel cleaning and polishing accesory kit, they have multiple sized buffing pads, and the tampon ones, also they give you a heafty jar of Jewelers roughe . wallmart for 13 bux.

i did the dremel pads with the roughe for 15 minutes.

then i used some flitz stainless steel polish paste with a dremel polishing wheel (cloth pads) , did this for a bout 25 minutes taking very deliberate and definate strokes,

then the mothers Mag and aluminum polish with the dremel polishing wheel. i did this for about 30-40 minutes.

a q-tip cut in half, chucked up in the dremel works, but you change them ALOT.

all of this, and i can still see the damned wolf. i was after the removal of this wolf too, but number one priority was for the barrel to fit better. as i could not push down while cycling the slide it wouldnt drop far enough for the slide to open past the lug.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc482/notjustanothermini/DSCF7298-1.jpg

OregonG20
11-23-2011, 21:34
So were you able to sand off the cartoon character?

I was just curious, what part of your Glock was not operating correctly when you changed out the barrel and recoil spring?

notjustanothermini
11-23-2011, 21:43
nothing at all, that is a 9x25 barrel. spring change was purely to deal with the recoil of the 9x25. nothing out of sorts. 10mm gets the factory glock 29 barrel and stock spring.

TreyG-20
11-23-2011, 22:47
yeah kinda, i went like this.

80 grit, (i forgot to mention the 80 in the above post)

80 grit with some LP (safariland) for about 5 minutes, i used a sheet of glass to back the paper on the table. i went hard and fast back and forth.

then the same with 120, then same with 220, 320, 400, 500, 600, 1500, 2000. with the last two grits, (1500 and 2000) i used no LP oil on the paper, just dry. and i went about 10 minutes with each of these grits.

then i bought a dremel cleaning and polishing accesory kit, they have multiple sized buffing pads, and the tampon ones, also they give you a heafty jar of Jewelers roughe . wallmart for 13 bux.

i did the dremel pads with the roughe for 15 minutes.

then i used some flitz stainless steel polish paste with a dremel polishing wheel (cloth pads) , did this for a bout 25 minutes taking very deliberate and definate strokes,

then the mothers Mag and aluminum polish with the dremel polishing wheel. i did this for about 30-40 minutes.

a q-tip cut in half, chucked up in the dremel works, but you change them ALOT.

all of this, and i can still see the damned wolf. i was after the removal of this wolf too, but number one priority was for the barrel to fit better. as i could not push down while cycling the slide it wouldnt drop far enough for the slide to open past the lug.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc482/notjustanothermini/DSCF7298-1.jpg
Sorry to be off topic but that website looks familiar in the background. I heard its a good one

OregonG20
11-24-2011, 07:51
nothing at all, that is a 9x25 barrel. spring change was purely to deal with the recoil of the 9x25. nothing out of sorts. 10mm gets the factory glock 29 barrel and stock spring.

Sorry, that question was for Arushus, since he was having problems with his gun not functioning properly.

A question for you though, where would you stop with polishing if you wanted a less glossy finish? More like a matte or brushed look.

notjustanothermini
11-24-2011, 09:20
well i would have not done the 80g, 120g, 220g, 320g, or 400 grit.

i would have just done the 500grit and the 600 git with some oil on the paper.

it leaves it more streaky looking though. and the wolf aint coming off unless you cut into the metal some with the low grits.

i should note this is my first attempt at HIGH POLISH stainless.

all my trigger work has always been done with 600 grit exclusively.

but now i have to go over everything in all my guns with the dremel.