KKM, Storm Lake, Barsto, IGB, and LWD barrels [Archive] - Glock Talk

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gwsanfor
01-08-2012, 01:50
I'm curious about aftermarket G20 barrels with better case support, always looking to be safe and shovel more into this moneypit of a hobby :cool:.

The IGB seems interesting, though pricey, advertising drop-in fit and "fully supported" chambers. My interest is more in minimizing bulging brass than a tighter barrel.

I've seen commentary here on most of these barrels individually, each seems to have its own relative merits. My questions are:

1) Has anyone tried more than one of these, and is willing to compare them?

2) What tradeoffs are associated with fully supported chambers? I assume that feeding reliability is the reason Glock makes there barrels as they do, so does fully supported mean less reliable feeding? This would be for a target and range gun, not for combat or carry.

Thanks.

_The_Shadow
01-08-2012, 08:31
I have used the Storm Lake 10mm & 40S&W conversion in my G-29 both have been great!

swinokur
01-09-2012, 05:36
I have Storrm Lake 4.48" extendd barrel in my G29SF. I also have a KKM 40 conversion barrel. The SL needed to go back because of feeding issues. It was polished and came back and has been fine ever since. I don't consider that a black mark and SL fixed it immediately and paid the UPS both ways.

arushus
01-09-2012, 10:25
There is a trade-off between case supoort and reliability. It isnt a direct relationship, but one is a function of the other.

nickE10mm
01-10-2012, 06:23
For Glocks, I've owned Federal, Lone Wolf, KKM and a 6" Barsto (their match, full gunsmith-only fitted version), as well as a Fusion 6" barrel (on a custom 1911), . Ironically, I've actually got a brand new Barsto semi-drop-in on the truck for delivery TODAY for my G20SF. Once I fit the barrel, I will definitely try to give a report on dimensions, feeding and measurements. Will include some pics, too.

gwsanfor
01-10-2012, 06:31
For Glocks, I've owned Federal, Lone Wolf, KKM and a 6" Barsto (their match, full gunsmith-only fitted version), as well as a Fusion 6" barrel (on a custom 1911), . Ironically, I've actually got a brand new Barsto semi-drop-in on the truck for delivery TODAY for my G20SF. Once I fit the barrel, I will definitely try to give a report on dimensions, feeding and measurements. Will include some pics, too.

Thanks. LWD (and all dealers I've checked) is out of theirs until February, but there's a Bar-Sto at Midway that's eating my lunch. According to their CS rep, turnaround is 10-12 weeks just for fitting an already manufactured barrel. I'm not willing to be without the gun that long, especially since the LWD seems to have a better cost-effect, as far as I can tell. Still, there's something about a Bar-Sto: I haven't heard anyone that did not love theirs.

How hard is the Bar-Sto to fit, typically? Do you have a how-to guide, or how did you learn that skill? I look forward to your report and pictures, especially since I'm not convinced Bar-Sto offers better case support than LWD. Can you comment on that?

arushus
01-10-2012, 06:41
You should look at the classifieds here, and elsewhere like gunbroker. You can find slightly used barrels for a very good price. Ive been seriously considering selling my stock-length lwd 10mm barrel. It needs the feedramp polished with a dremel. The support is just a little too tight and it is causing feed issues. I dont have a dremel or Id do it myself, and I dont wanna buy one just for my barrel.

nickE10mm
01-10-2012, 06:41
Thanks. LWD (and all dealers I've checked) is out of theirs until February, but there's a Bar-Sto at Midway that's eating my lunch. According to their CS rep, turnaround is 10-12 weeks just for fitting an already manufactured barrel. I'm not willing to be without the gun that long, especially since the LWD seems to have a better cost-effect, as far as I can tell. Still, there's something about a Bar-Sto: I haven't heard anyone that did not love theirs.

How hard is the Bar-Sto to fit, typically? Do you have a how-to guide, or how did you learn that skill? I look forward to your report and pictures, especially since I'm not convinced Bar-Sto offers better case support than LWD. Can you comment on that?

You are right, LWD is backordered.... and their site keeps pushing the date back a month.... they were backordered in OCTOBER, too. Who knows when they will ever get any stock. When I talked to Barsto yesterday, Mr. Stone said they wouldn't have any Glock 10mm barrels for many weeks (10-12w sounded about right), however, you would only HAVE to send them the gun if you either 1) get the full match fit barrel (NOT the one at MidwayUSA) or 2) choose to have them fit their semi-drop-in barrel. I have done quite a few projects like part fitting, sight installs, troubleshooting and quite a bit of 1911 work involving a file and decided to do this particular Barsto install on my own this time around. (BTW, I ordered my Barsto from Midway yesterday, I will have it today. Fast service!). Barsto is by far a better barrel than the LW and should also have better case support. LW sells a good barrel but it is more hit&miss with the actual amount of case support you will end up with. Also, you won't see much of an accuracy increase if the barrel is drop-in, whereas a barrel that doesn't QUITE drop-in and has to be fit will definitely see an accuracy improvement.

The bottom line is.... are you getting the barrel specifically FOR accuracy or is it more to save your brass and allow you to shoot lead/cast bullets? Also, what is your budget? Also, do you want it NOW or later? :) KKM I know KKM has their barrels IN STOCK and make an EXCELLENT barrel for less than the Barsto.

nickE10mm
01-10-2012, 06:42
You should look at the classifieds here, and elsewhere like gunbroker. You can find slightly used barrels for a very good price. Ive been seriously considering selling my stock-length lwd 10mm barrel. It needs the feedramp polished with a dremel. The support is just a little too tight and it is causing feed issues. I dont have a dremel or Id do it myself, and I dont wanna buy one just for my barrel.

There you go, gwsanfor! Snap it up!

arushus
01-10-2012, 06:49
Im thinking I may go with a barsto 10mm barrel eventually also. Like you said, Ive never heard anything bad about them. And theyre the only barrel Ive researched that ACTUALLY helps accuracy!

gwsanfor
01-10-2012, 07:03
You are right, LWD is backordered.... and their site keeps pushing the date back a month.... they were backordered in OCTOBER, too. Who knows when they will ever get any stock. When I talked to Barsto yesterday, Mr. Stone said they wouldn't have any Glock 10mm barrels for many weeks (10-12w sounded about right), however, you would only HAVE to send them the gun if you either 1) get the full match fit barrel (NOT the one at MidwayUSA) or 2) choose to have them fit their semi-drop-in barrel. I have done quite a few projects like part fitting, sight installs, troubleshooting and quite a bit of 1911 work involving a file and decided to do this particular Barsto install on my own this time around. (BTW, I ordered my Barsto from Midway yesterday, I will have it today. Fast service!). Barsto is by far a better barrel than the LW and should also have better case support. LW sells a good barrel but it is more hit&miss with the actual amount of case support you will end up with. Also, you won't see much of an accuracy increase if the barrel is drop-in, whereas a barrel that doesn't QUITE drop-in and has to be fit will definitely see an accuracy improvement.

The bottom line is.... are you getting the barrel specifically FOR accuracy or is it more to save your brass and allow you to shoot lead/cast bullets? Also, what is your budget? Also, do you want it NOW or later? :) KKM I know KKM has their barrels IN STOCK and make an EXCELLENT barrel for less than the Barsto.

Nick,

My main concern is safety and preserving brass with hot loads. The price Midway is asking ($200) is within my comfort zone, but add the $80 shipping and 16 weeks with the gun at Bar-Sto, and I become reluctant, probably willing to wait for a $110 LWD, which would probably meet my purposes just fine. The reason I am avoiding KKM is the late mudrush's view on them, and some bad reports (although the poll at brianenos.com seemed to favor KKM).

When do I want it? :rofl: However, I am trying to exercise something like restraint. If I come to believe that the Bar-Sto might just drop in, or that if very careful, I could fit it myself, I'd order today. I am a Glock Armorer, for what that's worth when it comes to fitting barrels, and I've done bunches of slides and triggers, just never a barrel. I'm fairly good with a Dremel. I'm getting ready to go shoot a ton of Underwood, and not having to fool with that Bulge Buster is worth some money to me.

Thanks for your time spent helping me on this.

nickE10mm
01-10-2012, 07:04
Im thinking I may go with a barsto 10mm barrel eventually also. Like you said, Ive never heard anything bad about them. And theyre the only barrel Ive researched that ACTUALLY helps accuracy!

I had my old Glock 20 Longslide fitted with a full, match gunsmith fit Barsto years back and it was a stunningly accurate barrel. Never a barrel-related feeding issue EVER with it. (I had extractor-related issue with that conversion setup I had but never was it the fault of the barrel). Barsto is easily the best AM barrel I've owned...

nickE10mm
01-10-2012, 07:09
Nick,

My main concern is safety and preserving brass with hot loads. The price Midway is asking ($200) is within my comfort zone, but add the $80 shipping and 16 weeks with the gun at Bar-Sto, and I become reluctant, probably willing to wait for a $110 LWD, which would probably meet my purposes just fine. The reason I am avoiding KKM is the late mudrush's view on them, and some bad reports (although the poll at brianenos.com seemed to favor KKM).

When do I want it? :rofl: However, I am trying to exercise something like restraint. If I come to believe that the Bar-Sto might just drop in, or that if very careful, I could fit it myself, I'd order today. I am a Glock Armorer, for what that's worth when it comes to fitting barrels, and I've done bunches of slides and triggers, just never a barrel. I'm fairly good with a Dremel. I'm getting ready to go shoot a ton of Underwood, and not having to fool with that Bulge Buster is worth some money to me.

Thanks for your time spent helping me on this.

Understood. Honestly, I'd go with a KKM. Call Kevin and tell him you want the most chamber support possible and have him send you the one with the most support (out of what he has in stock). I'm sure you will be MORE than satisfied and it will only cost you $165.

robert91922
01-10-2012, 13:25
I use 4.6" IGB barrel w. Plasma coating inside. It has literally full supported chamber, only visible signs of overpressure are primers falling out :shocked:
Pricey - yes. Glock smiles - none.
When ordering pay attention to check "plasma coating for lead bullets" even if you won't use cast bullets because this way you get smoother barrel and to "YES, I'am a reloader" check to get full supported chamber.
cons: a round longer than 1.270 stucks at the barrel hood if you want to unload it unfired from Glock 20, but such OAL is rare and not recommended for reliability anyway.

Why I decided to buy IGB? It was my only possible choice beside stock barrel. Not much offer on EU market.
P.S.: in general, it has tighter chamber than stock. Had some brass too bulged for IGB but still went smoothly through stock chamber.

nickE10mm
01-10-2012, 17:34
UPDATE:

Got my semi-drop-in Barsto barrel today.... WOOHOO!! When I first tried to drop in the barrel it wouldn't clear the ejection port. After talking with the friendly people at Barsto, I slowly reduced the length of the chamber section of the barrel by taking very small and deliberate strokes with a small square file until the barrel would press into the chamber opening with force.... then a few more to finally get it to slide in a bit easier... and one more stroke to get it to latch in, smooth as butter. I'm gonna shoot it before I do any more of ANYTHING, including polishing or the like. If polishing is necessary, I'll do it after my first range trip. I DID hand cycle a full mag of my multiple fired reloads and everything cycled perfectly and smoothly. Ejection was consistent, as well. If this barrel is anything like my prior 10mm Barsto, it will feed flawlessly every time.

I also took a few measurements of the stock chamber and Barsto. The stock barrel measures .434-.435" diameter. The Barsto measures .426-.427" with EXCELLENT case web support. My Fusion barrel also measures .426-.427" ALSO with AMAZING case support.

I'm a happy camper. Barsto still makes a damn fine product... no surprise.

Pics:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6098/img4399z.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/41/img4398oz.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/4927/img4397do.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/5836/img4396o.jpg

gwsanfor
01-10-2012, 20:02
UPDATE:

Got my semi-drop-in Barsto barrel today.... WOOHOO!! When I first tried to drop in the barrel it wouldn't clear the ejection port. After talking with the friendly people at Barsto, I slowly reduced the length of the chamber section of the barrel by taking very small and deliberate strokes with a small square file until the barrel would press into the chamber opening with force.... then a few more to finally get it to slide in a bit easier... and one more stroke to get it to latch in, smooth as butter. I'm gonna shoot it before I do any more of ANYTHING, including polishing or the like. If polishing is necessary, I'll do it after my first range trip. I DID hand cycle a full mag of my multiple fired reloads and everything cycled perfectly and smoothly. Ejection was consistent, as well. If this barrel is anything like my prior 10mm Barsto, it will feed flawlessly every time.

I also took a few measurements of the stock chamber and Barsto. The stock barrel measures .434-.435" diameter. The Barsto measures .426-.427" with EXCELLENT case web support. My Fusion barrel also measures .426-.427" ALSO with AMAZING case support.

I'm a happy camper. Barsto still makes a damn fine product... no surprise.



I'm sold. I just ordered the Bar-Sto from Midway. The $15 coupon from GT brought it to a fairly reasonable $185. I also ordered the Bar-Sto DVD, but if I don't think I can do the work I located a very reputable local smith who's done many barrels, including Glocks, so I don't expect to have to pay the $130 round trip shipping from Greensboro to Sturgis. Just saving money left and right with this gun.

Nick, I hope you'll keep posting about your progress with fitting and shooting your gun. That's a nice looking piece.

nickE10mm
01-11-2012, 06:52
I'm sold. I just ordered the Bar-Sto from Midway. The $15 coupon from GT brought it to a fairly reasonable $185. I also ordered the Bar-Sto DVD, but if I don't think I can do the work I located a very reputable local smith who's done many barrels, including Glocks, so I don't expect to have to pay the $130 round trip shipping from Greensboro to Sturgis. Just saving money left and right with this gun.

Nick, I hope you'll keep posting about your progress with fitting and shooting your gun. That's a nice looking piece.

Nice! If you have any ability with metalworking and gunsmithing projects, I would recommend getting a small square file (like in my picture) and do the install yourself. It took me all of about 20 minutes. Well worth it and it was FREE!

Let me know when you do the work!

rcd567
01-11-2012, 09:06
I found a source of Lone Wolf barrels. It was out of New York somewhere. Anyway I ordered and received one. Reviews on this site have been hit and miss but I ordered one anyway. It does have the cartoonish wolf on the barrel hood.

All that being said, I've run about 300 rounds, both factory and reloads through it and it has been flawless. My original glock barrel allowed by brass to bulge quite a bit and I even saw some smilies with certain loads. Those same loads in my Lone Wolf barrel don't smilie and my brass is in much better shape upon firing.

I invested in the LW barrel to reduce bulging for longer brass life without sacrificing reliability and accuracy. It has met all my expectations.

nickE10mm
01-11-2012, 09:13
I found a source of Lone Wolf barrels. It was out of New York somewhere. Anyway I ordered and received one. Reviews on this site have been hit and miss but I ordered one anyway. It does have the cartoonish wolf on the barrel hood.

All that being said, I've run about 300 rounds, both factory and reloads through it and it has been flawless. My original glock barrel allowed by brass to bulge quite a bit and I even saw some smilies with certain loads. Those same loads in my Lone Wolf barrel don't smilie and my brass is in much better shape upon firing.

I invested in the LW barrel to reduce bulging for longer brass life without sacrificing reliability and accuracy. It has met all my expectations.

I think he already bought a Barsto from Midway (same one I bought about three days ago).... BUT .... I will say, I had the same experience as you when I got my LW conversion barrel a year or two ago. LW DOES make a good product but I wanted gilt-edge accuracy this time around so I, personally, opted for a semi-fit barrel.

woolecox
01-14-2012, 21:08
I ordered a Bar-Sto Match/Target barrel for my G22 today (not the "drop in"). They are taking about 14-18 weeks for delivery for this barrel.

Anyone have any experience fitting one of these barrels? I am pretty handy with minor gunsmithing chores but have never fitted a barrel in a Glock. There are some good smiths in my area but would prefer to learn to do it myself if possible.

Any help appreciated. Thanks!

Woolly

nickE10mm
01-15-2012, 07:27
I ordered a Bar-Sto Match/Target barrel for my G22 today (not the "drop in"). They are taking about 14-18 weeks for delivery for this barrel.

Anyone have any experience fitting one of these barrels? I am pretty handy with minor gunsmithing chores but have never fitted a barrel in a Glock. There are some good smiths in my area but would prefer to learn to do it myself if possible.

Any help appreciated. Thanks!

Woolly

I'll post what I PMd to gwsanfor to help hi with his install:

Basically what you need to do is **determine where the barrel is hanging up** The gunsmith at Barsto said to first check the width of the hood to ensure the width wasn't an issue. My barrel WOULD drop into my slide, width-wise, but was too "long" to go into battery. With MY barrel, it seemed that I needed to take off a bit of metal on the FRONT EDGE of the barrel hood (the vertical ledge/edge in the area between the chamber and main barrel tube (if that makes sense). It LOOKED and FELT like I needed to take a lot off but it was probably only a thousandth or two. GO SLOW! No particular file number (that I noticed) but the size and shape are important to make the job easier. Square file allowed me to make a cut that was almost perfectly true into the 90 degree recess. I took a swipe or two, taking care to make the cut even and square, then tried to put the barrel in the slide. If it didn't fit, I'd remove it and take another swipe or two (you will get the feel of it as you go). At a certain point, the barrel will begin to "stick" when you put it back in the slide to test it. Once it starts sticking, go even slower. When you get to the point where the barrel will "pop" or "snap" into the slide with a push of the finger (not dropping right in, but requiring a bit of a push) then you're where you wanna be. Either cycle it a hundred times or use a finer file and just BARELY take metal off, still taking care to make the cut true and square.... Once you get to where the barrel will ALMOST pop into the slide.... try installing the recoil spring and cycling the pistol. Its a trial and error thing. I didn't use any Dyken or anything because I really didn't need it for this project. Also, I wouldn't mess with any of the lower lugs. Just the hood dimensions.

woolecox
01-15-2012, 08:08
I'll post what I PMd to gwsanfor to help hi with his install:

Basically what you need to do is **determine where the barrel is hanging up** The gunsmith at Barsto said to first check the width of the hood to ensure the width wasn't an issue. My barrel WOULD drop into my slide, width-wise, but was too "long" to go into battery. With MY barrel, it seemed that I needed to take off a bit of metal on the FRONT EDGE of the barrel hood (the vertical ledge/edge in the area between the chamber and main barrel tube (if that makes sense). It LOOKED and FELT like I needed to take a lot off but it was probably only a thousandth or two. GO SLOW! No particular file number (that I noticed) but the size and shape are important to make the job easier. Square file allowed me to make a cut that was almost perfectly true into the 90 degree recess. I took a swipe or two, taking care to make the cut even and square, then tried to put the barrel in the slide. If it didn't fit, I'd remove it and take another swipe or two (you will get the feel of it as you go). At a certain point, the barrel will begin to "stick" when you put it back in the slide to test it. Once it starts sticking, go even slower. When you get to the point where the barrel will "pop" or "snap" into the slide with a push of the finger (not dropping right in, but requiring a bit of a push) then you're where you wanna be. Either cycle it a hundred times or use a finer file and just BARELY take metal off, still taking care to make the cut true and square.... Once you get to where the barrel will ALMOST pop into the slide.... try installing the recoil spring and cycling the pistol. Its a trial and error thing. I didn't use any Dyken or anything because I really didn't need it for this project. Also, I wouldn't mess with any of the lower lugs. Just the hood dimensions.

Thanks Nick, that is very helpful. Did the barrel fit into the forward bushing area of the slide with no work? Could you please list the files that you used and where you got them?

Also, what is Dyken? Did you do any polishing or honing after you filed? Like most gunsmith chores, this seems pretty simple and straight forward once you understand it. I have done several of the AGI courses and it is always a "wow" moment when the light comes on.

As a side; other mods I'm doing to my G22 are complete trigger replacement adjustable for weight, over-travel, and reset distance, tungsten guide rod, titanium striker, weighted mag well, Tru-glo sights. All of this I can do easily.

Thanks again,
Woolly

überglock
01-15-2012, 16:10
I use 4.6" IGB barrel w. Plasma coating inside. It has literally full supported chamber, only visible signs of overpressure are primers falling out :shocked:
Pricey - yes. Glock smiles - none.
When ordering pay attention to check "plasma coating for lead bullets" even if you won't use cast bullets because this way you get smoother barrel and to "YES, I'am a reloader" check to get full supported chamber.
cons: a round longer than 1.270 stucks at the barrel hood if you want to unload it unfired from Glock 20, but such OAL is rare and not recommended for reliability anyway.
Why I decided to buy IGB? It was my only possible choice beside stock barrel. Not much offer on EU market.
P.S.: in general, it has tighter chamber than stock. Had some brass too bulged for IGB but still went smoothly through stock chamber.
Any improvment in precision?

gwsanfor
01-16-2012, 02:38
I'll post what I PMd to gwsanfor to help hi with his install:

Basically what you need to do is **determine where the barrel is hanging up** The gunsmith at Barsto said to first check the width of the hood to ensure the width wasn't an issue. My barrel WOULD drop into my slide, width-wise, but was too "long" to go into battery. With MY barrel, it seemed that I needed to take off a bit of metal on the FRONT EDGE of the barrel hood (the vertical ledge/edge in the area between the chamber and main barrel tube (if that makes sense). It LOOKED and FELT like I needed to take a lot off but it was probably only a thousandth or two. GO SLOW! No particular file number (that I noticed) but the size and shape are important to make the job easier. Square file allowed me to make a cut that was almost perfectly true into the 90 degree recess. I took a swipe or two, taking care to make the cut even and square, then tried to put the barrel in the slide. If it didn't fit, I'd remove it and take another swipe or two (you will get the feel of it as you go). At a certain point, the barrel will begin to "stick" when you put it back in the slide to test it. Once it starts sticking, go even slower. When you get to the point where the barrel will "pop" or "snap" into the slide with a push of the finger (not dropping right in, but requiring a bit of a push) then you're where you wanna be. Either cycle it a hundred times or use a finer file and just BARELY take metal off, still taking care to make the cut true and square.... Once you get to where the barrel will ALMOST pop into the slide.... try installing the recoil spring and cycling the pistol. Its a trial and error thing. I didn't use any Dyken or anything because I really didn't need it for this project. Also, I wouldn't mess with any of the lower lugs. Just the hood dimensions.

Nick, thanks. I did not update this post to reflect that I fitted the barrel last week and it shoots great.

One difference in your procedure is that the DVD from Bar-Sto, which is very useful, indicated that it's best to remove material from the tringular hood on the breech end of the barrel chamber, not off the muzzle end of the chamber (if I read your procedure correctly, although I'm sure your method works fine). I did that, slowly, keeping the file flat, and finishing the last little bit with a flat-surfaced Dremel accessory. I used lipstick and a black sharpie to see where the high spots were as I went. The chamber was originally lower than the top of the slide, and as I removed material, making about 10 passes, it gradually slipped further up in the slide, and then went into battery with a detectable "click". Whereas the OEM barrel has a thousandth or two slop front to back, the Bar-Sto cannot be moved by finger pressure. I used the feared Dremel to lightly break all edges that contact other metal, much like Irv Stone used a file in the DVD. According to Irv Stone, you only have to remove material from the breech-end bottom of the lug if the barrel will not go on the rails, which mine would, so I did not touch the lug.

It has had zero FTF/FTE's so far, and shoots great, allowing no bulges even on hot Underwood rounds. I love it. I was so busy chronoing that I have not done a side-by-side grouping test with the OEM barrel, but I will next week. You can see my trip report in another post you started.

Thanks for all your help, and shoot safe.

In an unrelated matter, I see on Amazon that you like your brass catcher. Did you try any other types, and do you have any details other than those in your Amazon review? I need a brass catcher real bad, and the $25 one looks like it might be as good as some $80 ones like Akuna (http://www.sherwoodakuna.com/)

Kegs
01-16-2012, 11:49
Bar sto are the best.

I run with KKM.

No problems.

The Mudrush Mike may have had some comments on the KKM, and I understand exactly what he meant by not as full of case support as others, still it's enough for serious loads and a world of difference to Glock.

Mike McNett runs KKM barrels and he used to load just as hot as anyone on the forum as far as I can tell - maybe hotter...too bad his commercial stuff isn't as hot as he advertises.

nickE10mm
01-17-2012, 10:38
Nick, thanks. I did not update this post to reflect that I fitted the barrel last week and it shoots great.

One difference in your procedure is that the DVD from Bar-Sto, which is very useful, indicated that it's best to remove material from the tringular hood on the breech end of the barrel chamber, not off the muzzle end of the chamber (if I read your procedure correctly, although I'm sure your method works fine). I did that, slowly, keeping the file flat, and finishing the last little bit with a flat-surfaced Dremel accessory. I used lipstick and a black sharpie to see where the high spots were as I went. The chamber was originally lower than the top of the slide, and as I removed material, making about 10 passes, it gradually slipped further up in the slide, and then went into battery with a detectable "click". Whereas the OEM barrel has a thousandth or two slop front to back, the Bar-Sto cannot be moved by finger pressure. I used the feared Dremel to lightly break all edges that contact other metal, much like Irv Stone used a file in the DVD. According to Irv Stone, you only have to remove material from the breech-end bottom of the lug if the barrel will not go on the rails, which mine would, so I did not touch the lug.

It has had zero FTF/FTE's so far, and shoots great, allowing no bulges even on hot Underwood rounds. I love it. I was so busy chronoing that I have not done a side-by-side grouping test with the OEM barrel, but I will next week. You can see my trip report in another post you started.

Thanks for all your help, and shoot safe.

In an unrelated matter, I see on Amazon that you like your brass catcher. Did you try any other types, and do you have any details other than those in your Amazon review? I need a brass catcher real bad, and the $25 one looks like it might be as good as some $80 ones like Akuna (http://www.sherwoodakuna.com/)

Interesting about your Barsto DVD. I haven't seen it but I'd sure like a copy. Maybe I'll have to go shopping. :) I called Barsto before I did my fitting and he told me to first check for width clearance and then told me to see if it would fit. It was plainly obvious that my barrel was hanging up on the front edge of the hood. I asked if I should start taking metal off from there and the Barsto person said that would be fine. I shot my Barsto this weekend and it shot GREAT, no failures of any kind with jacketed handloads. I shot some cast loads and it choked on every round. I'm gonna have to look into whats hanging them up. I shot the rest of my cast stuff through the Fusion and it cycled like butter.

woolecox
01-17-2012, 11:38
Nick, thanks. I did not update this post to reflect that I fitted the barrel last week and it shoots great.

One difference in your procedure is that the DVD from Bar-Sto, which is very useful....
Oooooohh.... there is a DVD from Bar-Sto. That helps. Just bought it.