What do YOU use for .40 s&w in glocks? [Archive] - Glock Talk

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glock30_27
01-09-2012, 23:56
I just purchaced a lee deluxe reloading kit and I am wondering what the pros use as far as powder,primer, projectile...ect. I have seen 50 different products and dont know which ones to narrow it down to without a book. I know I should get a book but i know someone could help me out a little, I just want practice rounds so im not worried about the best bullet or velocity yet. I am also seeing if i can get what the oal is and how many grains of powder{not looking for a hot round}...ect.

Any other info would help too like good websites that have what a book on reloading so i am not forced to spend 40 bucks on one that all the info is on the internet{everything is on the internet right}. Please give this noob a little bit of advice. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!

sicbstrd
01-10-2012, 00:42
i use my Lyman 49th manual for starting point in most calibers. Manuals are a wise investment, they contain all the info you seek and school you a bit on the science and magic of it all.............and they have tips on safety to help keep you alive.

F106 Fan
01-10-2012, 01:06
In my view, I WANT to see the loads written down in a book. I don't trust one darn thing I read on the Internet unless it comes from a powder or bullet MANUFACTURER. I do not subscribe to "Billy Bob's Hot Loads!".

The standard defense round is a 180 gr JHP.

You can go to data.hodgdon.com (http://www.hodgdon.com) and wander over to the reloading data area. You select:
Cartridge Loads
Load Type - Pistol
Cartridge - 40 S&W
Click 'Get Data'
Bullet Weight - 180 gr
Click 'Get Data' again.

I might use WSF, PB or HP-38 and Federal primers because I have WSF, PB and Federal primers. Longshot might also be a good choice. It is a slow powder and there is a large difference in charge between the starting and maximum loads and even the starting load is pretty fast. Based on the charge weights, I suspect that the case will be pretty full. If you are using a progressive press and have any chance of double charging, it will be very obvious if powder spills out.

Others may recommend something else - I wouldn't argue. I don't load .40 S&W.

At www.hodgdon.com (http://www.hodgdon.com) go to Products -> Company Store. You can order their complete reloading manual for $12 and a less comprehensive booklet for $3.

As to the cost of books: it's part of reloading. I have a dozen or more reloading manuals and I use every one of them. No single book has everything you will need. FWIW, you really should be reading through a general presentation of how to reload. It's simple, sure. But it's not forgiving.

Oh, and start with the "Starting Loads" and stay away from the "Maximum Loads".

Richard

sellersm
01-10-2012, 01:24
A little advice? Read the stickies in this forum. Get a couple of loading manuals, Lyman's at least. Fredj will tell you to avoid Tightgroup! :whistling:

Then read some more...

I like to load 180gr in .40 S&W. I like to use CCI primers. I like to use Win231 or HP-38 powders.

shotgunred
01-10-2012, 07:16
180 gr bullets are used more than every other weight combined in 40 sw.
Stick with a good medium burner powder. I like.....

WSF
Win 231
Power Pistol

Primers what ever is cheapest in small pistol primers.
Hot rounds are a very bad idea in the 40 and tend to blow up guns.
As for OAL I shoot my short with my glocks at 1.125

Here is someplace to start......

180 grain bullets seated to the OAL of 1.135
3.7 gr of WW231 or 4.5 gr of Power Pistol is a good starting point. These will be light loads that you will want to work up from to find out what is most accurate in your gun.

Taterhead
01-10-2012, 09:15
Not whata you are asking for, but advice for a noob would unequivocally be to get a manual and read it. A lot. Before getting started. I have found that the Speer #14 does a great job explaining the processes for pistol and rifle cartridges. Hornady and Lyman books are very good too. They are much more than a collection of recipes.

This is a hobby that can last a lifetime. Manuals are one area to NOT avoid spending a bit of cash on. The recipes are easy to get to. Many of them are online from various manufacturers. Compare and cross-reference at least two (3 is even better).

Once you have read a loading manual, searching on youtube will reveal various videos of guys showing how to reload. Take those with a grain of salt though. Having read and learned from a loading manual, you can filter out a lot of the crap that is out there.

Have fun, and welcome to an interesting and rewarding hobby.

rpgman
01-10-2012, 09:59
^^^^What he stated^^^^^

There is no easy way to get into re-loading.
Read the manuals first, especially the ABC's of Reloading, than maybe the Speer #14 or Lyman #49 and then read the stickies above, then watch some youtube vids, then ask a ton of questions on here.

That's what I did.

Oh, and watch Jack's vids he posted on youtube, they are very important:

http://www.youtube.com/user/gioajack?feature=g-all-s

Greg

fredj338
01-10-2012, 10:39
I am surprised only 50 diff products. Consider the 40 in the GLock the same as any other handgun round. There are dozens of diff bullets, at least that many powders will work, lots of ways to go. Having at least 2, 3 is better, loading manauls makes the choice easier.
If you want to shoot cheaper, use lighter bullets & faster powders, but you don't get full power ammo safely. Medium burners like WSF, Unique, Universal, PowerPisto, HS6, etc all give you factory equiv vel w/ any bullet style & wt w/ pressure safety margin.

creophus
01-10-2012, 10:55
Get a book. Your local gun store may even have them for free. You can hit up the Hodgdon.com site for good data too.

MoneyMaker
01-10-2012, 11:04
no lead bullets

IndyGunFreak
01-10-2012, 11:17
I just purchaced a lee deluxe reloading kit and I am wondering what the pros use as far as powder,primer, projectile...ect. I have seen 50 different products and dont know which ones to narrow it down to without a book. I know I should get a book but i know someone could help me out a little, I just want practice rounds so im not worried about the best bullet or velocity yet. I am also seeing if i can get what the oal is and how many grains of powder{not looking for a hot round}...ect.

Any other info would help too like good websites that have what a book on reloading so i am not forced to spend 40 bucks on one that all the info is on the internet{everything is on the internet right}. Please give this noob a little bit of advice. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!

Advice: Get a manual or two.

People can (and will) help you out, but would you trust advice from someone you don't know? If you would, you're a kB waiting to happen. All of us can recall posters that have posted "pet" loads that were well over any loading manual out there (there was actually an interesting thread because of this a couple weeks ago).

Get a couple loading manuals... Lyman 49th is my favorite, then I pick up a "Loadbook" in each caliber I load. Loadbooks are simply a compilation of data from powder manufacturers, bullet manufacturers, other manuals, etc.. so they are usually full of data.. but it's still best to verify everything in them. They're also very cheap.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/414298/loadbooks-usa-40-s-and-w-and-10mm-auto-reloading-manual

F106 Fan
01-10-2012, 11:55
All of us can recall posters that have posted "pet" loads that were well over any loading manual out there (there was actually an interesting thread because of this a couple weeks ago).



While we're back on that epic thread, here's the summary:

1) Know where your load data is coming from and rationalize it with published materials. Ask questions!

2) Don't load 1000 rounds without testing the load. Load 10 and give them a try. Or, load 10 at each of several charges (staying away from maximum) and give them a try.

3) So, they go bang! Great! Now, do you know how to check for signs of overpressure? No? Buy a book! The ABCs of Reloading covers overpressure pretty well. The pictures help.

Amazon.com: The ABCs Of Reloading: The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert (9781440213960): Rodney James: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51fVqjMi0rL.@@AMEPARAM@@51fVqjMi0rL

You want the latest version and ^^^ is it.

The 40 S&W is a high pressure cartridge and less forgiving than something using a lower pressure like the .45 ACP. I would be very careful approaching max loads.

Richard

F106 Fan
01-10-2012, 11:56
And I have no idea how that image got embedded ^^^ I just posted the link.

Richard

glock30_27
01-10-2012, 17:44
In my view, I WANT to see the loads written down in a book. I don't trust one darn thing I read on the Internet unless it comes from a powder or bullet MANUFACTURER. I do not subscribe to "Billy Bob's Hot Loads!".

The standard defense round is a 180 gr JHP.

You can go to data.hodgdon.com (http://www.hodgdon.com) and wander over to the reloading data area. You select:
Cartridge Loads
Load Type - Pistol
Cartridge - 40 S&W
Click 'Get Data'
Bullet Weight - 180 gr
Click 'Get Data' again.

I might use WSF, PB or HP-38 and Federal primers because I have WSF, PB and Federal primers. Longshot might also be a good choice. It is a slow powder and there is a large difference in charge between the starting and maximum loads and even the starting load is pretty fast. Based on the charge weights, I suspect that the case will be pretty full. If you are using a progressive press and have any chance of double charging, it will be very obvious if powder spills out.

Others may recommend something else - I wouldn't argue. I don't load .40 S&W.

At www.hodgdon.com (http://www.hodgdon.com) go to Products -> Company Store. You can order their complete reloading manual for $12 and a less comprehensive booklet for $3.

As to the cost of books: it's part of reloading. I have a dozen or more reloading manuals and I use every one of them. No single book has everything you will need. FWIW, you really should be reading through a general presentation of how to reload. It's simple, sure. But it's not forgiving.

Oh, and start with the "Starting Loads" and stay away from the "Maximum Loads".

Richard
THANK YOU for all the info yeah I kind knew I should start at the lowest powder and work up from there. And I need to load up 10 or 20 and go shoot them with some factory loads and see if they feel close. I like the idea of going with a slower burning powder so i can see if a double charge. And i would deffinatly double check what was mention. I am just getting some {right paths} to start in a direction...and i dont think there is a wrong answer cause there is always a different way to get the same result . Again thank you to all ...and if anyone knows more websites for information please let me know. p.s. i will get a book or two maybe look on craigs list.

shotgunred
01-10-2012, 18:51
The 40 S&W is a high pressure cartridge and less forgiving than something using a lower pressure like the .45 ACP. I would be very careful approaching max loads. Richard

http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp


40
165 GR. SIE JHP Winchester WSF .400" 1.125" 6.3 1055 28,100 PSI 6.7 1115 32,700 PSI

9mm
124 GR. FMJ Winchester WSF .355" 1.169" 4.7 1015 27,700 PSI 5.3 1115 32,700 PSI

357 sig
147 GR. HDY XTP Winchester WSF .355" 1.140" 7.1 1260 33,800 PSI

10mm
180 GR. SIE JHC Winchester WSF .400" 1.260" 5.7 950 25,000 PSI 7.1 1150 35,600 PSI

45ACP
200 GR. CAST LSWC Winchester WSF .451" 1.225" 6.0 870 15,200 PSI 6.7 970 19,400 PSI

The 40 S&W is a normal pressure cartridge. But yes it can be unforgiving at the higher end. Of course I have never understood the need to push beyond published data. That can be bad for both your gun and body.

F106 Fan
01-10-2012, 18:59
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp



The 40 S&W is a normal pressure cartridge. But yes it can be unforgiving at the higher end. Of course I have never understood the need to push beyond published data. That can be bad for both your gun and body.


I guess whether the 40 S&W is 'normal' depends on your frame of reference. Certainly, all of the other cartridges have much higher pressure than the century old .45 ACP.

The bulk of my loading is .45 ACP and I consider that the norm. Everything else is 'high pressure'. In my view... Other points of view are equally valid.

Richard

Colorado4Wheel
01-10-2012, 20:03
I guess whether the 40 S&W is 'normal' depends on your frame of reference. Certainly, all of the other cartridges have much higher pressure than the century old .45 ACP.

The bulk of my loading is .45 ACP and I consider that the norm. Everything else is 'high pressure'. In my view... Other points of view are equally valid.

Richard

9mm is three years older then the 45acp.

kasper7106
01-10-2012, 20:32
I have been using 6.2gr of WSF with 165gr Xtreme TCJ with a OAL of 1.125. I have loaded around 2500 rounds using this recipe and shot form a G23 and G27 with no problems what so ever. This load seems to be on the lite side compared to some factory loadings

fredj338
01-11-2012, 00:34
I have been using 6.2gr of WSF with 165gr Xtreme TCJ with a OAL of 1.125. I have loaded around 2500 rounds using this recipe and shot form a G23 and G27 with no problems what so ever. This load seems to be on the lite side compared to some factory loadings

You can't tell anything by felt rcoil. Diff powders can offer less or more felt recoil while giving near identical vel. I shoot 6.1gr under a 165gr Ranier for about 950fps in a G32/SL bbl.

WASR10
01-11-2012, 01:01
Winchester White Box, 180 or 165 gr. JHP. Cheap and reliable. :)

shotgunred
01-11-2012, 07:07
Reilly? I reload better 40 sw ammo for less than $6.00 a box. What do you pay for a box?

rpgman
01-11-2012, 08:43
Reilly? I reload better 40 sw ammo for less than $6.00 a box. What do you pay for a box?

Agreed.

DWARREN123
01-11-2012, 11:17
***Warning this load was developed in/for my handgun, a Glock 22***

I like 180gr JHP's in 40 S&W. Latest is

Bullet: Zero brand 180gr JHP

Brass: R-P

Powder: Longshot 8.0gr

Primer: CCI #500 SPP

Warm and accurate. :supergrin:

WASR10
01-11-2012, 11:30
Reilly? I reload better 40 sw ammo for less than $6.00 a box. What do you pay for a box?

This is what I get for posting at 1 in the morning. I didn't even notice this was a reloading thread.

Oops.

fredj338
01-11-2012, 14:21
Winchester White Box, 180 or 165 gr. JHP. Cheap and reliable. :)

One man's cheap is another man's expensive. To me, all factory ammo is expensive compared to comperable or better handloads. If you shoot 100rds a month, not a big deal, if you shoot 500rds+ a month, "cheap" factory gets awful expensive.:crying:

glock30_27
01-13-2012, 22:36
Again thank you all for the responses...so i have learned
1.NO LEAD!!!
2.GET 2 OR MORE RELOADING BOOKS IF POSSIBLE.
3.START LOWER PRESSURE AND WORK UP TO A MID RANGE LOAD
4.MAKE SURE YOUR CHECK FOR DOUBLE CHARGES
5.IF STARTING/CHANGING SOMETHING TRY A SMALL BATCH BEFORE MAKING A ****** LOAD OF THEM
6.ALWAYS HAVE A RIGHT MIND AND FOCUS ON WHAT YOU ARE DOING
7.DO NOT TRUST EVERYTHING ON THE INTERNET!!!!!!!!!!!!
8.DO ALL YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU RELOAD
9.GLOCK TALK RULES:rock:
10.NO :drink::uglylol:

now my new question I am looking how to get everything cheap. Like the one person said they can reload for 6 dollars a box. Where do you all get your bullets,primers,powder to make them that cheap? So any help would be cool and again thank you all your great and sorry if this has been asked before.

glocker1321
01-13-2012, 23:52
Noticed you are from Missouri. Me too. don't know what part you are from but if you are ever in Clinton, Mo there is a drug store called Krislers. They usually have about anything the reloader might need. From bullets, cases, powder and primers. I think they have pretty good prices on powder and primers. beats a 50 dollar charge extra from haz. mat. shipping. Anyway I buy all my powder and primers from them. Lost better prices then bass pro. excellent people to deal with. Just thought I would let you know.

PCJim
01-14-2012, 08:53
now my new question I am looking how to get everything cheap. Like the one person said they can reload for 6 dollars a box. Where do you all get your bullets,primers,powder to make them that cheap? So any help would be cool and again thank you all your great and sorry if this has been asked before.

Supplies (primers, powder and bullets) can all be obtained thru very reputable internet supply houses. Keep in mind that primer and powder orders will have a hazmat charge in addition to the regular shipping charge. If you order both at the same time from, say www.powdervalleyinc.com (http://www.powdervalleyinc.com), you can ship something like 20K primers and 48# powder in the same shipment. Doing something like that spreads that hazmat charge over a large quantity of supplies, thus reducing the add-on cost per round produced. Be careful when ordering from certain vendors as their shipments are direct from warehouses and they may not be able to combine shipments.

Bullets do not carry a hazmat shipping charge. Where possible, use a supply house that will ship in a USPS flat rate box. You can easily get 3K 9mm bullets in one box, again spreading the shipping charge over a large number of rounds.

You've probably picked up on the large quantities I've mentioned. The more you buy in bulk, the lower your cost per finished round will be. THAT is where these low cost per round numbers come from. Many of us will buy 3,5,10K bullets at a time, or 16+ lbs of powder along with 10-20K primers. It is a lot of cash outlay, but it doesn't go bad and further reduces that cost per round.

birda40
01-14-2012, 22:02
I have a few books I bought, seems they are all diff in some way. I also use the local library it has lots of free info.

glock30_27
01-15-2012, 11:21
I have a few books I bought, seems they are all diff in some way. I also use the local library it has lots of free info.
Yeah thats what im worried about that if i buy two books they will be different in some way but the library is a great idea i would have never thought of that thanks a lot.

IndyGunFreak
01-15-2012, 16:34
Supplies (primers, powder and bullets) can all be obtained thru very reputable internet supply houses. Keep in mind that primer and powder orders will have a hazmat charge in addition to the regular shipping charge. If you order both at the same time from, say www.powdervalleyinc.com (http://www.powdervalleyinc.com), you can ship something like 20K primers and 48# powder in the same shipment. Doing something like that spreads that hazmat charge over a large quantity of supplies, thus reducing the add-on cost per round produced. Be careful when ordering from certain vendors as their shipments are direct from warehouses and they may not be able to combine shipments.

Bullets do not carry a hazmat shipping charge. Where possible, use a supply house that will ship in a USPS flat rate box. You can easily get 3K 9mm bullets in one box, again spreading the shipping charge over a large number of rounds.

You've probably picked up on the large quantities I've mentioned. The more you buy in bulk, the lower your cost per finished round will be. THAT is where these low cost per round numbers come from. Many of us will buy 3,5,10K bullets at a time, or 16+ lbs of powder along with 10-20K primers. It is a lot of cash outlay, but it doesn't go bad and further reduces that cost per round.

Agreed.. with one caveat.

When you're new, go to the added expense of buying a few 1lb containers of powder locally, that way if you get a powder you don't like, you're not stuck trying unload 45lbs of it. I've got a local place that has pretty good prices on powder, so that's where I get it. Primers, powder valley or Graf and sons. Bullets, Precision Delta.

Read the stickies, that thread has a post with links to all sorts of sites selling reloading supplies.

dvrdwn72
01-15-2012, 17:05
I will agree that you should find powder locally. Try a few different ones. Follow your manuel. I started about 1yr ago and just found a load I like for all my .40 glocks. So take your time, and write stuff down.

DWARREN123
01-15-2012, 17:13
I do reload lead semi wad cutters for my G22.

Bullet: 175gr LSWC (Magnus or SnS Casting)

Brass: R-P

Powder: Longshot 7.0gr

Primer: CCI #500 SPP

Very accurate out to 25 yards and leaves nice large drisp holes in the paper. Hardcast and leaves no or very little lead in my stock barrel. :supergrin:

dvrdwn72
01-15-2012, 17:43
180 gr. Pd. 4.3 grain of titegroup at 1.124 oal runs both 3rd and
4 th gens. 3.8 tg will run the get. 3's great for steel,idpa, but does not function reliably in the gen 4.

OrGlocker
01-23-2012, 14:54
For me and my G22 I use an KKM barrel, mixed brass, small primer, 4.3 grains of W231 powder and an 180 grain LTC bullet with a taper crimp of .423" and a COL of 1.100".