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glocker1321
01-12-2012, 11:28
I was wanting to know if anyone had loaded any of the nosler 150 gr hp 40s&w with unique powder.

I bought the nosler manual but its like 5 years old and there is only 7 different powders they use and of course not unique.

My sierra manual has 150 gr hp has unique listed. Would I be alright using there info for the powder I want to use?

I am reloading for a glock 23 gen 4 and I do have the Lwd barrel. I have read that the gen 4 have to be more on the max side to function properly. I loaded some 180 gr sierra hp using unigue 6.0 grs which was .3 under the max and had a few failure to feed. some of my cases looked like they were maybe catching the lip on the top of the barrel and maybe the slide was catching the spent case and jamming it into the top lip. take a look at the pic. do i need to put the extra .1 or .2 grains in some more loads and see what happens or change powder. the next slower powder I have would be wsf. coal was at 1.125 +/- .001 The cases where new starline never fired.

I've been reloading for a few years now but new to 40 s&w. so anyone with the nosler bullets 150 gr hp and hornady hp xtp 155 gr. using unique powder if you could pass on some useful information that would be great.

Sorry for such a long post and all the questions. Thanks

rpgman
01-12-2012, 11:33
sorry I can't help but I use 165gr Precision Delta FMJ in my .40 S&W.

I use 6.1gr of Unique in that load.

Colorado4Wheel
01-12-2012, 12:00
Be prepared to load on the warm side for a Gen 4. Personally, I would re-spring the gun. They are way over sprung. But those are your two choices.

TN.Frank
01-12-2012, 12:20
My Lee book lists loads for a 150gr Jacketed with Unique.
Starting load is 7.2grs and max is listed at 8.0 grs @ 1245 fps, 34,000 psi.

glocker1321
01-12-2012, 13:04
thanks, the Lee book sounds like one I need to pick up sometime. I have heard others ask questions and nobody really has a reply and somebody always says their lee book says...........

Franks does that Lee book say for round nose and hp? Should be the same right?

Anyone shoot those Hornady xtp hp 155 gr with Unique for a glock 23 gen 4.

I reload for my nine mainly b/c I got a few hundred bullets from hornady free and my ruger sr9 really loves those bullets with 4.4 gr of bullseye

glocker1321
01-12-2012, 22:10
well I decided to run to the store and just get some aa 5 and some power pistol and go by the nosler book. We'll see what happens here in a few days.

I can't believe nobody has had a comment on the cases that are messed up. could it be that I started to hot and the slide is slamming back faster and catching the case as it is ejected or not enough powder and the slide is not coming back far enough.
Thanks

Colorado4Wheel
01-12-2012, 22:24
Doesn't sound like you started to hot to me. Mangled cases are a result of your rounds getring caught by the slide and hitting the ejector.

squirreld
01-12-2012, 22:41
I'm running 5.8 of unique behind a 180 gr PD FMJ.
I'm with C4W, I don't think its your load.

DWARREN123
01-12-2012, 22:58
Some time in the future try Longshot, good for medium to max loads for the 180gr bullets in 40S&W. Works very well in my G22RTF and pretty decent in my G20SF. :supergrin:

glocker1321
01-12-2012, 23:14
I made up some test loads from 7.7 to 8.5 in .2 gr increments. the 7.7 was the lowest and 8.7 was the highest for the AA-5. this is for the nosler 150 gr hp per the nosler manual.

Maybe it will warm up a bit enough to shoot and see what happens. I would just like to find something that my gen 4 likes. The nosler manual says that aa-5 at 8.7 was the most accurate out of the 7 powders listed.

If it don't like it I might have to try the Power Pistol. thanks

glocker1321
01-12-2012, 23:20
it looks like the case was catching the top lip of the chamber. thats what the pic is showing. Like the slide was mashing it mouth first into the top. Not sure by what you are meaning by hitting the extractor. I don't think it would make teeth marks in the mouth. lol I'm about to give up on those 180 grs anyway. cost to much. Just wanting something to work good with good accuracy (don't we all) just to play around with shooting some steel targets.

rpgman
01-13-2012, 03:07
it looks like the case was catching the top lip of the chamber. thats what the pic is showing. Like the slide was mashing it mouth first into the top. Not sure by what you are meaning by hitting the extractor. I don't think it would make teeth marks in the mouth. lol I'm about to give up on those 180 grs anyway. cost to much. Just wanting something to work good with good accuracy (don't we all) just to play around with shooting some steel targets.

I really like my. 40 load in my Gen4 G27.
165gr Precision Delta FMJ with 6.3gr of Unique.

TN.Frank
01-13-2012, 10:28
The Lee manual simply says "150gr Jacketed" so I guess flat point, truncated cone or hp would all be fine. The way I normally load is "middle of the road" so I'd go 7.5grs or 7.6grs with a 150gr bullet and call it a day. That puts you in the middle of the range of the powder charge so it should be safe in most guns and will give you enough power to cycle the action and burn the powder. Remember, Unique isn't that good with light loads so stay in the middle.

Steve Koski
01-13-2012, 10:46
I have no idea about 4th Gen Glocks, but my 3rd gen Glock .40s will swallow anything from 5.5 grains Unique on up to (and past) max.

(Under a 150 grain bullet).

glocker1321
01-13-2012, 12:20
I want to thank everyone for all the great information.

I had one more question about the crimping part. I have the Hornady die set that has the taper crimp built into the seating die. I took it apart and cleaned it really good when I received it. When I set it up just like the special instruction say, and then reset it after you go through all the steps, I am haveing a hell of a time getting the case out. Almost like it is sticking in the floating seating stem. Kinda haft to hit the handle on the press to get the cases to release. When I measure, and I don't recall the measurement, It really isn't much of a change on the mouth. and I do mean the very very edge is were I am measuring. I don't want to mess up and pull the head off the case. So I have just seated my bullets w/o the crimp, and went back to crimping (with the same die) but screwing the seating depth adjustment up so it would seat anymore.

Is this a common problem for the all in one seating and crimping dies?

I bought a redding taper crimp die but haven't got it yet. Hope that fixes the problem.

ColoCG
01-13-2012, 15:18
I load a 155gr. Berry's on top of 6.5gr. Unique at col. of 1.127" in Glock 23 and a Kahr CW40. Both feed and shoot great.


Don't no about your crimping problem, I'm not familiar with hornady's seating and crimping die or whether it is different than RCBS or Lee's but I have never had such a problem. Sounds like it's not adjusted correctly.

glocker1321
01-13-2012, 15:29
colocg is that with a gen 4 or 3? the only reason I ask is b/c the gen 4 supposedly has to have a little hotter load to make it work alright. thanks

ColoCG
01-13-2012, 15:34
colocg is that with a gen 4 or 3? the only reason I ask is b/c the gen 4 supposedly has to have a little hotter load to make it work alright. thanks


Sorry, my 23 isn't a Gen 4 it's a Gen 3

PCJim
01-13-2012, 16:15
I want to thank everyone for all the great information.

I had one more question about the crimping part. I have the Hornady die set that has the taper crimp built into the seating die. I took it apart and cleaned it really good when I received it. When I set it up just like the special instruction say, and then reset it after you go through all the steps, I am haveing a hell of a time getting the case out. Almost like it is sticking in the floating seating stem. Kinda haft to hit the handle on the press to get the cases to release. When I measure, and I don't recall the measurement, It really isn't much of a change on the mouth. and I do mean the very very edge is were I am measuring. I don't want to mess up and pull the head off the case. So I have just seated my bullets w/o the crimp, and went back to crimping (with the same die) but screwing the seating depth adjustment up so it would seat anymore.

Is this a common problem for the all in one seating and crimping dies?

I bought a redding taper crimp die but haven't got it yet. Hope that fixes the problem.

I don't use Hornady dies (although I do have some Pacific dies lying around). It certainly shouldn't be trying to hang up inside the die.

The easiest setup for adjusting a seating/crimping die is:

Back the seating/crimping die out several turns so that it will not make contact with a case when the ram is raised, temporarily lock in place. Place a case with bullet to be seated in the shellholder/shellplate, raise ram. You should not feel any contact from die. Adjust the bullet seating plug lower until you make contact with the bullet.

Lower ram, adjust seating plug lower, fully raise ram to start bullet seating. Lower ram, check COL. Repeat until you attain the desired COL. Back seating plug out several turns so that it will not make contact with the bullet in the next step.

Fully raise ram with seated bullet, screw the die body down until you feel it make contact with the case. Lock the die into position while leaving ram raised. Adjust the bullet seating plug until you feel the plug make contact with the bullet, lock the plug adjusting nut.

The die is now set for this particular profile/weight bullet for both seating and crimping in one operation. Should the crimp need to be adjusted, back the seating plug adjuster out a bit, screw die body in/out for the desired effect, reset the seating plug adjuster and lock in place.

glocker1321
01-13-2012, 21:04
thanks I will have to try that. but it might just be easier sense I should have the taper crimp die tomorrow.

I was more or less thinking of calling either Hornady or Midway and see what I should do about it. I still think I have it set up right but I could be wrong. I just don't think it should be hard to get out. doesn't make any sense.

glocker1321
01-13-2012, 21:07
Sorry, my 23 isn't a Gen 4 it's a Gen 3

does anyone know what the stock two spring recoil spring in a gen 4 is rated at?

MrVvrroomm
01-13-2012, 21:47
I have read that the gen 4 have to be more on the max side to function properly.You may have read it, but it's not true.

I have had Gen4's chambered in .40 since they first came out. I download to 40 minor for IDPA. My guns run perfectly with stock barrel and recoil spring.

The feeding problems you're having are because of the non-oem barrel.

glocker1321
01-13-2012, 22:19
Mrvvrroomm are you basically telling me I shouldn't have wasted my money on the aftermarket barrel.

Are you having the slight deformed case from your gen 4s?
I've shot a about 400 rounds of wwb 165 gr and every time I have went out I had at least one ftf. the last time I shot, not counting those reloads, it shot 120 rounds with not a single hick up. I've only got about 400 rounds through it now. I did get the redding G-RX die to fix the cases. About how many times are you using a case?

I was just figuring that I would just load the Winchester cases from the wwb maybe 1 or 2 times at most cause of all the horror stories about case bulge and whatnot. And that was also depending on what the cases looked like after the 2 or 3 loads.

thanks for all the answers.

squirreld
01-13-2012, 23:47
I had an aftermarket bbl.
Sold it!
back to a stock gen 3 glock bbl.

I sold it because the OAL was at the minimum and I didn't like that.

rpgman
01-14-2012, 03:23
Mrvvrroomm are you basically telling me I shouldn't have wasted my money on the aftermarket barrel.

Are you having the slight deformed case from your gen 4s?
I've shot a about 400 rounds of wwb 165 gr and every time I have went out I had at least one ftf. the last time I shot, not counting those reloads, it shot 120 rounds with not a single hick up. I've only got about 400 rounds through it now. I did get the redding G-RX die to fix the cases. About how many times are you using a case?

I was just figuring that I would just load the Winchester cases from the wwb maybe 1 or 2 times at most cause of all the horror stories about case bulge and whatnot. And that was also depending on what the cases looked like after the 2 or 3 loads.

thanks for all the answers.

Heck I don't even count how many times I load my. 40's.

MrVvrroomm
01-14-2012, 10:57
Mrvvrroomm are you basically telling me I shouldn't have wasted my money on the aftermarket barrel.

Are you having the slight deformed case from your gen 4s?
I run every single piece of my 40 brass through my G-Rx die. It's probably just my ocd.

If you're shooting jacketed or plated bullets, the aftermarket barrel is a waste of money.

I don't even count how many times I reload my brass. I'll lose it before it wears out. The majority of my 40 loads are a) just major power factor, 168ish or b) minor power factor for IDPA. My brass usually lives a long, easy life.

rpgman
01-14-2012, 11:20
I run every single piece of my 40 brass through my G-Rx die. It's probably just my ocd.

If you're shooting jacketed or plated bullets, the aftermarket barrel is a waste of money.

I don't even count how many times I reload my brass. I'll lose it before it wears out. The majority of my 40 loads are a) just major power factor, 168ish or b) minor power factor for IDPA. My brass usually lives a long, easy life.

Exactly

glocker1321
01-14-2012, 15:11
I to have been running everything through the g-rx die.

I went out and shot some of the test runs today. didn't have a hick up one till I loaded the clip all the way with 12 rounds. It was like the spring in the clip has to much pressure to work with the Lwd barrel. If I load 10 It would go ahead and work fine. but with 11 or 12 it would jam up when the case was heading to the chamber.

The loads that seemed the best were at the bottom end instead more on the warm side. Although with the least amount of powder the gun seemed to work fine, accuracy was there then the next few loads or a few grains more would seem a little off. The 7.7 gr of aa-5 was good then the rest weren't as good till I got up to the 8.5 range. 8.7 being max. That was for the Nosler 150 gr hp.

The Hornady bullets were kinda in the same fashion, lower seemed better then went and came back with a little hotter load. don't remember the exact figures right now.

The new redding taper crimp die seams to work awsome. a heck of a lot better then the hornady seater/crimper.

What is the approx measurement for the taper. seems like mine was .418 is that enough? Should I put a little more on it or what?

ColoCG
01-14-2012, 15:38
Mrvvrroomm are you basically telling me I shouldn't have wasted my money on the aftermarket barrel.

Are you having the slight deformed case from your gen 4s?
I've shot a about 400 rounds of wwb 165 gr and every time I have went out I had at least one ftf. the last time I shot, not counting those reloads, it shot 120 rounds with not a single hick up. I've only got about 400 rounds through it now. I did get the redding G-RX die to fix the cases. About how many times are you using a case?

I was just figuring that I would just load the Winchester cases from the wwb maybe 1 or 2 times at most cause of all the horror stories about case bulge and whatnot. And that was also depending on what the cases looked like after the 2 or 3 loads.








thanks for all the answers.


Put your factory barrel back in your gun and see if that doesn't solve your feeding problems.

I reload my .40 brass until I lose it, and I've never used a GRX die or bulge buster on my brass. Never had a need.

Also not sure on the Gen 4 recoil spring for the 23. The single factory recoil spring I believe was 18lbs.

As far as crimp, just crimp enough to remove the flare in your brass. Doesn't matter what it measures.

shotgunred
01-14-2012, 15:49
No need for a GRX die or bulge buster. Just run your brass through a properly adjusted sizing die and your good to go.

Colorado4Wheel
01-14-2012, 15:51
Seriously.

glocker1321
01-14-2012, 15:58
okay, i'll try the factory barrel next time and see what happens. every case that I have shot out of the factory barrel seems to have a slight bulge in it. Not real bad but it is noticeable.

I guess I was just under the assumption that the crimp needed to be at least .xxx.

do most all glocks seem to be pretty hard on brass? I have a ruger sr9 that I love to shoot. You can't hardly even tell the case as been in a gun. And all the cases shot will be ejected pretty much in the same spot all the time, reloads or factory ammo. This glock 23 seems like it will kick brass in just about any direction. Had a cop friend that came out and shot the other day and he got me to change my grip a little and seemed to help a lot with where the cases went. the heads on the case seems like they are getting pretty ruffed up from the ejector grabbing them. I took the whole gun down the other night and cleaned it from top to bottom and check and took a brush to the ejector but it still seems like it is sure putting the hurt on a few cases out of a hundred each time I go shoot. Leaves enough of a burr on the case head that I don't know if i should reuse them or toss em.

Thanks guys for everything.

rpgman
01-14-2012, 16:39
okay, i'll try the factory barrel next time and see what happens. every case that I have shot out of the factory barrel seems to have a slight bulge in it. Not real bad but it is noticeable.

I guess I was just under the assumption that the crimp needed to be at least .xxx.

do most all glocks seem to be pretty hard on brass? I have a ruger sr9 that I love to shoot. You can't hardly even tell the case as been in a gun. And all the cases shot will be ejected pretty much in the same spot all the time, reloads or factory ammo. This glock 23 seems like it will kick brass in just about any direction. Had a cop friend that came out and shot the other day and he got me to change my grip a little and seemed to help a lot with where the cases went. the heads on the case seems like they are getting pretty ruffed up from the ejector grabbing them. I took the whole gun down the other night and cleaned it from top to bottom and check and took a brush to the ejector but it still seems like it is sure putting the hurt on a few cases out of a hundred each time I go shoot. Leaves enough of a burr on the case head that I don't know if i should reuse them or toss em.

Thanks guys for everything.

I dunno.
Every case out of my Glocks look fine.And I have a Gen4 G17, Gen4 G27 and a Gen3. G34
You sure ur not OCDing on the case?

rpgman
01-14-2012, 16:56
Put your factory barrel back in your gun and see if that doesn't solve your feeding problems.

I reload my .40 brass until I lose it, and I've never used a GRX die or bulge buster on my brass. Never had a need.

Also not sure on the Gen 4 recoil spring for the 23. The single factory recoil spring I believe was 18lbs.

As far as crimp, just crimp enough to remove the flare in your brass. Doesn't matter what it measures.

Good advice.

shotgunred
01-14-2012, 17:03
Glocks are not hard on brass. Hot loads are hard on brass.

firefighter4215
01-14-2012, 17:13
In response to the "crimp needing to be .xxx," I crimp mine. 003." I'm away from my load data, but that's just .003" smaller than the sidewall outside diameter. I think I said that right. Patrick Sweeney had something about that for the 45acp in his Big Book of Glock or whatever it's called. Made sense to me that it would work on the .40, so that's what I did. So far so good with plated or jacketed bullets.

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Colorado4Wheel
01-14-2012, 18:49
Zero crimp. Never understood wanting to deform the bullet.

glocker1321
01-14-2012, 21:46
I dunno.
Every case out of my Glocks look fine.And I have a Gen4 G17, Gen4 G27 and a Gen3. G34
You sure ur not OCDing on the case?

what is OCDing???????
Should I try a new extractor or have a gun shop look at it and see if it needs to be filed just a touch?

rpgman
01-15-2012, 07:15
what is OCDing???????
Should I try a new extractor or have a gun shop look at it and see if it needs to be filed just a touch?

Yea I would take it to a local GunSmith because I don't think it's the cases.

Colorado4Wheel
01-15-2012, 08:11
The ejector is going to mark up some cases. Use them it doesn't matter. As far as the brass bulging. Different manufactures vary in chamber size. I am sure it's normal as well. Yes, the more the gun is designed to run in any condition the looser the chamber is likely to be.

ColoCG
01-15-2012, 09:50
:agree: Glock chambers tend to be looser than most especially your LW barrel, thay's why your loads should feed better with the Glock factory barrel. But your brass should be fine to reload, unless your using hot loads to cause large bulges which is doubtful in the Gen 4.

glocker1321
01-15-2012, 16:58
I went out and shot about a hundred rounds this evening. Factory barrel 12 in the 13 round clips and everything worked fine. A few of the cases have a notch in the mouth but nothen as bad as the pics that I posted first. this was with winchester white box ammo. still don't understand what exactly is going on with the case getting chewed up on the mouth. I do understand the extractor chewing them up a little.

There is a few close friends of mine that are more of a gunny then I am, and I might call them and see what they say. One I know will say take it to this guy in town. talked to the guy a few times but never worked on anything of mine YET. lol

Thanks for the info guys.

WiskyT
01-15-2012, 17:04
what is OCDing???????
Should I try a new extractor or have a gun shop look at it and see if it needs to be filed just a touch?

Don't let anyone near your guns with a file unless his last name is "Clark".

Sell your aftermarket barrel on ebay.

glocker1321
01-16-2012, 23:25
I probably keep the barrel and just keep messing around with the load till I find something that works good with it. I think the springs in the mags might be a little on the stiff side. I can't hardly get the 13th round in the mags. At 11 you can tell the spring really getting stiff. 12 is pretty much maxed out. 13 near impossible. The barrel seemed to work fine as long as I only loaded 10. No feed problems.

WiskyT
01-17-2012, 04:09
I probably keep the barrel and just keep messing around with the load till I find something that works good with it. I think the springs in the mags might be a little on the stiff side. I can't hardly get the 13th round in the mags. At 11 you can tell the spring really getting stiff. 12 is pretty much maxed out. 13 near impossible. The barrel seemed to work fine as long as I only loaded 10. No feed problems.

There is nothing wrong with your mag springs and I could get all 13 in there. You're chasing the wrong thing.

shotgunred
01-17-2012, 06:07
I went out and shot some of the test runs today. didn't have a hick up one till I loaded the clip all the way with 12 rounds. It was like the spring in the clip has to much pressure to work with the Lwd barrel. If I load 10 It would go ahead and work fine. but with 11 or 12 it would jam up when the case was heading to the chamber.

T

What is your OAL? This sounds like it is too long and it is classic glock mag long OAL problem.

glocker1321
01-17-2012, 07:14
What is your OAL? This sounds like it is too long and it is classic glock mag long OAL problem.

its 1.125

I really don't see how the springs couldn't be just a little tight. I've loaded alot of mags and those buggers are tight. The first ones are loose and easy to load but that 13 round just doesn't hardly have room. I'm not saying it won't go. Its just near impossible to get it in or out. Thats what I am meaning by a tight clip.

rpgman
01-17-2012, 07:24
I use a 1.130 on a 165gr Precision Delta bullet.

glocker1321
01-17-2012, 17:24
I don't really want to seat the bullet to far down as for pressure reasons.

Its just funny that if I load 10 in the mag and use the Lwd barrel then no problems. with the eleven or twelve in the mag It just won't load those two b/c there is so much spring pressure in the mag they won't feed right.

So little nicks and burs on the head of the case should be aright to keep using?