Squib round removal [Archive] - Glock Talk

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NMG26
03-17-2012, 21:07
Had a squib today in a Sp101 revolver.

I tried using a wooden dowel but it just spintered on the JHP and made the problem worse.

The dug the wood out and tried a thin metal rod centered on the JHP, but I can't get too solid of a hit on it. It is not budging.

If it was a removable barrel I could press it out. I guess maybe a gun smith could do that?

I could make a sleeve and drill a hole in the bullet, but I am not sure that will help?

Anyone know how to remove a squib from a revolver?

DIXIE DUCK
03-17-2012, 21:18
I pounded one squib load out of a 38 S&W with an aluminum rod and it worked out. It was a very scary incedent however, I was supervising my 13 year old cousin shooting the gun
(it was his) and noticed his 3rd round sounded much different than the other two, I screamed at him to stop shooting and nearly tackled him before he got the 4th off. I'm glad I was there because who knows what would have happened if he had fired another behind it.

Brucev
03-17-2012, 21:21
Do not under any circumstances try in any way shape or form to "drill" the bullet for removal. Your method with the wooden dowel would work fine with a lead bullet. They are easily removed. With a jacketed bullet you have a serious problem. Take your revolver to a good gun smith. He will have the experience and tools necessary to remove the stuck bullet without risking damage to the bore of your revolver. The cost in labor will be far less than having to replace your barrel due to damage from attempts to remove the bullet.

If the squib is the result of your own or someone else's handloaded ammunition, there is nothing much that can be done except to break down the remaining ammo and recycle the components. If the squib is from a factory load, contact the manufacturer as they will most assuredly want to know of the problem. As well, they will certainly take responsibility for the cost of fixing your revolver. A similar situation happened to one of my church members. He was using very old Remington ammunition loaded with lead bullets. He stuck not one but four bullets in his barrel. Remington paid the cost to replace the revolver as well as replacing his two boxes of ammunition.

tous
03-17-2012, 21:25
They make caliber-specific brass rods for removing barrel obstructions, but if you don't have one, a hardwood dowel closest to the bore size (11/32 is close) and a hammer.

Hardwood won't fracture as much as soft pine.
If that doesn't work, try a cleaning rod, again one that fits the hole and a jag, but as most rods are aluminum these days and hollow they tend to not trasnfer force well.

Good luck.

NMG26
03-17-2012, 22:13
Read somewhere that you can put it in the freezer for and hour and that helps.........I'm skeptical.

I'm going to try letting it soak in CLP all night, and see if that loosens it up.

ronin.45
03-17-2012, 22:18
Tap it out with a rod(preferably brass). You had the right idea, just didn't hit it hard enough.

M2 Carbine
03-17-2012, 22:21
I carry a 1/4 inch brass rod in my range box to knock out stuck bullets. Works every time.


Factory squib loads aren't all that uncommon now days.

I drill new students pretty throughly on squib loads sticking a bullet in the barrel.

427
03-17-2012, 22:25
If you're in ABQ, Charlie's or Los Ranchos.

icantpick
03-17-2012, 22:32
Read somewhere that you can put it in the freezer for and hour and that helps.

That's brilliant. Lead expands more when heated, so this could work.

ETA: As a rough approximation, modeling the bullet as pure lead, freezing it would reduce the pressure on the barrel by almost 700 psi. Depending on how stuck the round is, this could make all the difference (or none at all).

Metal Angel
03-17-2012, 23:51
A similar situation happened to one of my church members. He was using very old Remington ammunition loaded with lead bullets. He stuck not one but four bullets in his barrel. Remington paid the cost to replace the revolver as well as replacing his two boxes of ammunition.

Are you saying four bullets stuck one behind another?

I had a squib in a CX4 the other day. It was my friend's gun and his hand loads, 9mm. I fired about 10 or so rounds and then one sounded different and was hot on my right hand. I honestly didn't know what to think. I thought maybe it was just a light load. I cleared the chamber and a loaded cartridge ejected... I thought "oh well, must have cycled fine" so I dropped the action, aimed down sites, started to squeeze the trigger, and then stopped and laid the gun on the bench. The owner of the gun walked over and asked if there was something wrong. I said, maybe. He pulled it apart and found a bullet lodged half way down the barrel. I don't know what would have happened if I had pulled the trigger again.

carbuncle
03-17-2012, 23:58
I've carried a Monadnock D-Jammer (http://www.batons.com/d_jammer.html) in my range bag for years, handy for this and all sorts of other uses. even works as a kubotan!

ZekerMan
03-18-2012, 05:33
I've carried a Monadnock D-Jammer (http://www.batons.com/d_jammer.html) in my range bag for years, handy for this and all sorts of other uses. even works as a kubotan!

That looks like a handy tool to have, have to check out the price. Thanks

carbuncle
03-18-2012, 11:28
I paid 8 or 10 bucks for mine, but I ordered it directly from Massad Ayoob's company about 15 years ago.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

TonyT
03-18-2012, 12:52
I never us wood dowels as they do splinter particularly with jacketed bullet removal. I purchased some brass rod of various diameters which provide nice fits in the various calibers I shoot.

deputy tom
03-18-2012, 14:49
I use brass rods. I have used a 1/4" drive 6" extension to knock out lead .45acp squibs in an emergency. Not my idea but the gunsmith/pistol owner's request.tom.

H&K 4 LIFE
03-18-2012, 15:30
If you tightly tape up the end of the wooden dowel it will help prevent it from splitting.

NMG26
03-18-2012, 17:59
That's brilliant. Lead expands more when heated, so this could work.

ETA: As a rough approximation, modeling the bullet as pure lead, freezing it would reduce the pressure on the barrel by almost 700 psi. Depending on how stuck the round is, this could make all the difference (or none at all).

Well I ended up putting the gun in the freezer for about an hour and half.

I was using a 1/4 in metal rod on the core and it pushed the lead right out of the Jacket!

Then I had some delrin that I could put on the Jacket and pounded it out with a wooden dowel without destroying the wood.

Went out in a wind storm and shot the rest of my build, and it worked great.

Thanks to all for the education!

HK Dan
03-19-2012, 06:06
Arredondo makes a fiberglass squib tool that works brilliantly. It's under $10 and is available through Midway. Being a USPSA/IDPA guy, I see squibs all the time, so this was a no-brainer for me. Saved a lot of guy's matches over the years! Main thing? Don't sweat the load. It's not that serious--you avoided the serious part by not firing another round.

Get your squib rod and hold the gun and the rod, tight against the bullet, in one hand. Gently tap the rod and the gun down on a solid surface. You should feel it move right away with minimal force.

I can't believe that someone suggested going to a gunsmith--must be one...<g>

Dan

Brucev
03-19-2012, 07:33
Are you saying four bullets stuck one behind another?

I had a squib in a CX4 the other day. It was my friend's gun and his hand loads, 9mm. I fired about 10 or so rounds and then one sounded different and was hot on my right hand. I honestly didn't know what to think. I thought maybe it was just a light load. I cleared the chamber and a loaded cartridge ejected... I thought "oh well, must have cycled fine" so I dropped the action, aimed down sites, started to squeeze the trigger, and then stopped and laid the gun on the bench. The owner of the gun walked over and asked if there was something wrong. I said, maybe. He pulled it apart and found a bullet lodged half way down the barrel. I don't know what would have happened if I had pulled the trigger again. The incident described involved a Ruger Security-Six revolver. The church member was walking down a narrow fire break and blundered on a large rattle snake at about maybe 3-4 feet. His first found discharged normally but impacted high probably due to his being excited. His next four rounds were squibs. He only had five rounds loaded as he was misinformed and thought that he had to carry a revolver with a empty chamber under the hammer.

Brucev
03-19-2012, 07:38
[QUOTE=HK Dan;18729236]Arredondo makes a fiberglass squib tool that works brilliantly. It's under $10 and is available through Midway. Being a USPSA/IDPA guy, I see squibs all the time, so this was a no-brainer for me. Saved a lot of guy's matches over the years! Main thing? Don't sweat the load. It's not that serious--you avoided the serious part by not firing another round.

Get your squib rod and hold the gun and the rod, tight against the bullet, in one hand. Gently tap the rod and the gun down on a solid surface. You should feel it move right away with minimal force.

I can't believe that someone suggested going to a gunsmith--must be one...<g> No. But I've seen enough folks who are not mechanically inclined or knowledgeable about something like firearms screw things up by experimental blundering awith things things like screw drivers, punches, etc.

Dan

ZekerMan
03-19-2012, 14:09
I've carried a Monadnock D-Jammer (http://www.batons.com/d_jammer.html) in my range bag for years, handy for this and all sorts of other uses. even works as a kubotan!

Midway and Optics Planet sell these for just under $13 so not a bad deal.

SC Tiger
03-19-2012, 14:48
Had a squib today in a Sp101 revolver.

I tried using a wooden dowel but it just spintered on the JHP and made the problem worse.

The dug the wood out and tried a thin metal rod centered on the JHP, but I can't get too solid of a hit on it. It is not budging.

If it was a removable barrel I could press it out. I guess maybe a gun smith could do that?

I could make a sleeve and drill a hole in the bullet, but I am not sure that will help?

Anyone know how to remove a squib from a revolver?

Assuming the SP101 is a .357 or .38, get a 3/8" wood dowel rod. Whittle or sand it until it just gets into the bore with some force. Cut it about 4-5" beyond the muzzle (use your judgement here - you want just enough sticking out to get the bullet clear of the forcing cone plus something to grab to get it out. I think I cut one about 6-7 inches to clear a bullet from a 4" barrel). Then put the gun in a vice with non-marring jaws. Next, drive the squib out with a dead-blow or rubber hammer (in case you miss and hit the gun). Then grab the dowel with some pliers and pull it out. It will come out easier than it went in, especially if you twist it with the rifling.

I've had to do it with a squib load. It was one of my reloads, so it was a little embarrasing.

The size will keep the rod from having anywhere to splinter, as long as you keep the end sticking out short.