First 10mm reloads. [Archive] - Glock Talk

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WeeWilly
03-24-2012, 14:39
So I got a chance to try out my new G20SF and a few different powders. I loaded up ladders for Bluedot, 2400, VV-N105 and VV-3N37.

The ladders were from book start loads to max (.1gr over max with the VV-N105 and I was using PD 180gr FMJ.

The first thing I noticed was how light the felt recoil seemed for loads that were easily pushing past 600ft/ft-lbs of ME. The second was the amazing accuracy the Glock provided with my best loads of each, right there with my best 1911's.

I was at a local indoor range, so no Chrony, just looking at brass signs and testing the two recoil springs I had with me (stock and 22lb).

On the max book loads the brass was really getting flung with the stock spring. When I switched to the 22lb spring, the distance I had to walk to find my brass was cut substantially. I tested the 22lb spring with every powder's start level and it functioned perfectly, so I will stick with the upgraded spring.

Another observation is none of the loads tested seemed to do anything abnormal to the brass (I was using the stock Glock barrel), so it seems at least with these powders max book loads are fine.

When my KKM barrel arrives, I will find time to get out to where I can setup my Chrony and see what some serious +P hog loads look like. I also plan on trying some Longshot and 800x, although right now the VV-N105 seems to be on the top rung of the totem.

This gun is more fun than a barrel of monkeys.

Taterhead
03-24-2012, 16:37
Great stuff Willy. It sounds like a successful trip to the range. The addiction has started. Enjoy it and stay safe!

I have thousands of loads through my stock barrel too. I have had a similar experience as the one that you write about. I had planned to, but I ended not ever ordering an aftermarket barrel.

I also have reverted to the stock spring rate after running the 22# spring. I found that felt recoil is harsher with the heavier weight. For whatever reason, the 22# spring did not noticeably cut down on the distance that brass is launched. It still gets outa town.

That is the cool thing about the mighty 20. Take it out of the box and it just flat runs.

At any rate, that is the cool thing about trying different things. You can see what you like and don't like.

You'll probably like using Longshot when you get to it. My personal favorite is Accurate #9. It works great too for 155s - 200 grainers. 800-X smokes the Nosler 135s.

Want an attention getter? Load up a hefty charge of 800-X under a Nosler 135 and then head to your local indoor range. Heads turn. A while back I was doing exactly that. A shooter entered the range and was walking behind me just as I sent one. He literally dropped to his knees being so startled.

:rofl:

_The_Shadow
03-24-2012, 16:47
WeeWilly, What Taterhead said...Have fun, enjoy and stay safe! :cool:

WeeWilly
03-24-2012, 16:57
Thanks for the tips Taterhead.

I do have it on the agenda to buy some lighter bullets to test.

I have loaded a lot of #9 in .44RM, it is my favorite for that caliber. I have had a little trouble with #9 and my Dillon powder bars. I have gotten a fair amount of leakage, far more than just about any other powder I have ever loaded, such that it actually can jam the action in the drop.

I was out of #9 when I started loading these 10's. I plan to get some more in the next order (along with the LS and 800x) and have a few mods lined up for the powder bar spacer on my Dillon to see if I can get a little closer tolerance to limit the leakage problems loading it.

I just placed another order for a few thousand Starline cases as right now I am only averaging about 70% recovery of the brass. Too bad it is such a fun caliber, funny how it always works out that the most expensive things are always the best...

Some fun.

Yondering
03-24-2012, 20:22
I have loaded a lot of #9 in .44RM, it is my favorite for that caliber. I have had a little trouble with #9 and my Dillon powder bars. I have gotten a fair amount of leakage, far more than just about any other powder I have ever loaded, such that it actually can jam the action in the drop.



Willy, you might contact Dillon about that powder bar. They may replace it; it sounds like it's a bit worn if you're getting some leakage. I've noticed my Dillon powder bar gets a little sticky with #9, but not enough to jam up, and no leakage to speak of.

WeeWilly
03-24-2012, 23:57
Willy, you might contact Dillon about that powder bar. They may replace it; it sounds like it's a bit worn if you're getting some leakage. I've noticed my Dillon powder bar gets a little sticky with #9, but not enough to jam up, and no leakage to speak of.

That's a good suggestion. I have been fooling around with some of that spray on graphite paint, trying to build up the spacer bar some. It seems to be working so far as some of the other powders that I load that are on the fine side seem to have stopped leaking. When I get my next bottle of #9, that will be the acid test. If that fails then for sure, I will give Dillon a call.

slcapener
04-15-2012, 18:39
I am curious what type of brass and dies you are using?

_The_Shadow
04-15-2012, 19:35
I am curious what type of brass and dies you are using?

I use RCBS dies Carbide since 1990, however I have gotten some used brass that was slightly bulged really low on the brass.

I have been using lots of used brass (40S&W / 10mm / 45ACP) from different sources, traded, purchased and even gifted. Why? Standard sizing dies do not resize the areas below the radius of the die mouth or carbide ring. Oh this only works of casings that are the same extractor rim as the casing body...

I clean these in the tumbler to remove most of the debris then size using the LEE FCD with it's guts removed.
http://leeprecision.com/userfiles/images/38_FCD.jpg
This die needs to be as far to the top of the press stroke for best leverage but still allow the casing to pass completely thru the carbide sizer ring, it will remain inside the die body till the next few cases push it out the top of the die body.

I use a bullet push-pin from a 40 cal/10mm LEE bullet sizer kit in place of the shell holder on the ram to push on the casing's head.
http://leeprecision.com/images/T/xctmpoPcM2f.png
It is small enough to go inside the the sizing die and strong enough and large enough surface to apply the force to push the brass up and thru the carbide ring.

While this is adding an extra step it gives ma a chance to further inspect the casings, especially 40S&W and 10mm as these are high pressure cartridges. Slight bulges or OK but "Smiled" brass is trash! "Smiled" brass has started to shear and can not be ironed back into place http://forums.handloads.com/smileys/smiley5.gif

Doing the pass thru uniforms the casing completely even the extractor rims to nice concentric round rim.

I was pass thru sizing some 45 ACP to condition them for the loading process and found the Speer and CCI cases are different from all other manufactures brass. The Speer and CCI cases show a bright ring just in front of the extractor cut and also the extractor rim itself as the carbide ring is squeezing this down to a uniform size of the carbide ring! Dimentionally it must be slightly larger in diameter than all of the other makes of brass with a few others that are almost as that size. If you do pass thru sizing you will feel exactly what I experienced.

One thing I can say is that once these brass have been processed with the Pass-Thru-Sizer system they will fit cartridge case gauges where as I have seen conventional sizing dies not remove all case expansion enough to drop freely in and out of the cartridge case gauges.

Hope this explanation provides some insight to Pass-Thru-Sizing and its benifits! http://forums.handloads.com/smileys/smiley4.gif

Kwesi
04-15-2012, 21:17
WeeWilly: have you considered Starline Nickel? Should help you retrieve more. I only load PD 180 FMJ. I've found the nickel is outlasting the regular Starline. Midway USA has it.

WeeWilly
04-16-2012, 09:09
I am curious what type of brass and dies you are using?

I am using Dillon dies, but I have not reloaded any of my stouter test cases with them yet. All my test loads have been with new Starline. The Dillon dies are radiused more at the mouth than say Lee, so if I have a problem with chambering when I start using the fired cases, I may give a die with a tighter mouth a try.

WeeWilly: have you considered Starline Nickel? Should help you retrieve more. I only load PD 180 FMJ. I've found the nickel is outlasting the regular Starline. Midway USA has it.

Not a bad idea. I have been buying Starline direct for about $.15/case. I will have to do the math and see if it makes sense. Lately I have just been trying to pick the times when the range is less busy and my yield's have improved (not to mention a more pleasant experience). I have also gotten better at picking out the 10's from the others. I am finding more 38 Supers than I ever did before, they resemble 10's more than others.