Thinking about getting a used P226 [Archive] - Glock Talk

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jlruiz32
05-15-2012, 19:31
I was making a payment on my G23 that I have on layaway when I saw a used p226. I asked the clerk if I could take a look at it. I really liked it, it felt good in my hand. I'll pay off the G23 on Friday and now I'm thinking about getting the p226 also. Is there anything specific about sigs to look for when buying used?

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collim1
05-15-2012, 19:52
Field strip it and look at the rails. They should be black or gold all the way the way through, no silver or etching in the frame rails.

Replace the recoil spring as a precaution.

countrygun
05-15-2012, 19:58
Field strip it and look at the rails. They should be black or gold all the way the way through, no silver or etching in the frame rails.

Replace the recoil spring as a precaution.

Exactly.

The only thing I would really worry about on a used Sig (other than the obvious that would disqualify any gun) is the condition of the frame rails.

jlruiz32
05-15-2012, 21:28
I don't know all the specifics of this model as I only handled it for a few minutes. I'll look in more detail on Friday and take some notes. The price listed is $549 and its a 9mm. The gun looks real good, no exterior damage and very little holster wear. No rattles, nothing seems loose. I did a basic function check and it seems ok. What would be a fair price off the top of your head without knowing anything else?

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jlruiz32
05-15-2012, 21:32
There were also three other p226s there that were priced $699, $749 and $799. I don't know the differences between any of them but the clerk did say the one I was looking at was an older model than the rest.

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Bro KV
05-15-2012, 21:35
Railed?

jlruiz32
05-15-2012, 21:37
No rail.

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JK-linux
05-15-2012, 21:38
.....

Bro KV
05-15-2012, 21:47
Chances are its an all made in Germany pistol. The frame and slide will say made in Germany or Exeter NH. Check for triple serial numbers (slide, frame and barrel). Some circles feel the all German Sigs are the best. I have owned all German, German/US and all US Sigs and they have all been perfect.

jlruiz32
05-15-2012, 21:51
I did see W Germany stamped on the frame. I'll check all over next time I go.

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Bro KV
05-15-2012, 22:21
Probably is a carbon steel slide and internal extractor.

gunsmoke92
05-15-2012, 23:24
Check the slide rails. If they are the same width and height for their entire length, you're golden. If the frame rails have high then low spots through out their length, these are known as "mud rails", and are known to have separation issues, walk away. I'm betting if it's a W. German P226, it is good to go.

As a side note, I love Sigs. The P229 .40 I had was one of, if not the most accurate handgun I've ever fired. They are reliable, as accurate as anything on the market, and easy to maintain.

bac1023
05-16-2012, 04:15
I love the older P226s.

fowler
05-16-2012, 04:31
There have been alot of older German trade in's that have been factory refurbed for about $600ish. There good pistols,but remember they have the weaker 3-piece carbon welded pinned breach that is weaker and more rust prone. These can not handle +P -+P+ ammo or just plain heavy shooting. The breech block that is pinned can spread the slide. Sig engineers found that the American made milled solid barstock stainless steel slide is many times stronger and rustproof. The 3 piece welded pinned breechblock could not handle hot 9mm,40sw,357sig pressures. It was designed for a 50,000 standard pressure 9mm service round. The Navy Seals Special warfare Center demanded only the one piece milled stainless USA made slides for the strength and rust proof stainless with Nitron coating for salt water and hotter 9mm ammo. The newer external extracters have been a more reliable update to.

jlruiz32
05-16-2012, 06:46
This is a decent write up, but like everything, your mileage may vary, take it with a grain of salt, etc...

http://grayguns.com/2009/07/

Thanks for the link, looks like good information there.

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jlruiz32
05-16-2012, 06:50
Thanks for all the feedback guys, if its still there I'll give a thorough inspection.

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TalkToTheGlock
05-16-2012, 07:18
1. If it is a W. German or German P226 check the date code listed under the slide near the front. It will have a a two letter date code. A is 0 and progresses through there. It will give you a date of manufacture.

2. Check the frame, slide, and barrel serial numbers and make sure they match. To me, a non-matching serial number gun is not worth as much. If the numbers don't match then it is most like a certified pre-owned SIG which means it was sent back to SiG to be refurbished. Everything was overhauled on these guns and if you want a shooter, it is close to new as you can get. The triple serial numbers usually only matter to collectors (like me) or anal people (like mez lol)

3. Check the rails not only for wear but earlier P226's (serial numbers U150xxx to U185xxx) had mud rails or scalloped rails. Sig designed these pistols to help with functioning in the pistol trials in the 80's against the M9 in dirty conditions to help prevent the slide from locking up. The scallops make the frame weaker and caused cracking in the frame after shooting a few thousands loads or using +p ammo. Avoid them at all costs unless you are a collector.

4. Unless you really want a DAO gun, make sure it has the decocker on the left hand side. I personally don't like the DAO P226's. They came out with them in spurts in the late 80's to early 90's.

That's about all I could think of. Someone already posted a link to gray guns rail overview.

Enjoy!

fnfalman
05-16-2012, 08:08
I did see W Germany stamped on the frame. I'll check all over next time I go.

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If the frame rail is good, then buy it. I cannot in good conscience recommend an American made SIG; be it handgun or rifle.

never enough
05-16-2012, 08:52
1. If it is a W. German or German P226 check the date code listed under the slide near the front. It will have a a two letter date code. A is 0 and progresses through there. It will give you a date of manufacture.

2. Check the frame, slide, and barrel serial numbers and make sure they match. To me, a non-matching serial number gun is not worth as much. If the numbers don't match then it is most like a certified pre-owned SIG which means it was sent back to SiG to be refurbished. Everything was overhauled on these guns and if you want a shooter, it is close to new as you can get. The triple serial numbers usually only matter to collectors (like me) or anal people (like mez lol)

3. Check the rails not only for wear but earlier P226's (serial numbers U150xxx to U185xxx) had mud rails or scalloped rails. Sig designed these pistols to help with functioning in the pistol trials in the 80's against the M9 in dirty conditions to help prevent the slide from locking up. The scallops make the frame weaker and caused cracking in the frame after shooting a few thousands loads or using +p ammo. Avoid them at all costs unless you are a collector.

4. Unless you really want a DAO gun, make sure it has the decocker on the left hand side. I personally don't like the DAO P226's. They came out with them in spurts in the late 80's to early 90's.

That's about all I could think of. Someone already posted a link to gray guns rail overview.

Enjoy!

when I looked at mine it has the letters JJ with a smaller N on top of them. Any idea when mine was made? It's an all german made one,matching numbers

Bro KV
05-16-2012, 09:05
when I looked at mine it has the letters JJ with a smaller N on top of them. Any idea when mine was made? It's an all german made one,matching numbers

1988 sir

TalkToTheGlock
05-16-2012, 09:42
when I looked at mine it has the letters JJ with a smaller N on top of them. Any idea when mine was made? It's an all german made one,matching numbers

1988. That's when all the kinks got worked out and Sig really started to make a name for themselves with the P226 to my understanding. I have a 1984 and a 1989.

never enough
05-16-2012, 09:43
And my roommates? His letters are KD

Bro KV
05-16-2012, 09:50
SIG/Sauer Date Codes

A B C D E F G H J K
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Note that the letter I is not used.

Bro KV
05-16-2012, 09:51
So KD is 1993

collim1
05-16-2012, 10:21
There have been alot of older German trade in's that have been factory refurbed for about $600ish. There good pistols,but remember they have the weaker 3-piece carbon welded pinned breach that is weaker and more rust prone. These can not handle +P -+P+ ammo or just plain heavy shooting. The breech block that is pinned can spread the slide. Sig engineers found that the American made milled solid barstock stainless steel slide is many times stronger and rustproof. The 3 piece welded pinned breechblock could not handle hot 9mm,40sw,357sig pressures. It was designed for a 50,000 standard pressure 9mm service round. The Navy Seals Special warfare Center demanded only the one piece milled stainless USA made slides for the strength and rust proof stainless with Nitron coating for salt water and hotter 9mm ammo. The newer external extracters have been a more reliable update to.

I agree. The W German guns are nice looking, but the one piece stainless slides and external extractors are an improvement IMO.

Bro KV
05-16-2012, 10:34
IDK, I feel the SS slides messed up the balance of the guns. Especially comparing the P228 to the P229. I don't shoot a lot of +P ammo so that's not an issue for me.

vtducrider
05-16-2012, 14:59
Wish I still had my "W Germany" P226. 25,000 rounds, and not a single problem.

Tsx
05-16-2012, 17:56
Grab the P226, 549 is a ok price but it never hurts to bargain. I personally think the 226 is one of the best guns out there.

thisaway
05-16-2012, 18:06
SIG/Sauer Date Codes

A B C D E F G H J K
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Note that the letter I is not used.

Mine is "KB"...1991

thisaway
05-16-2012, 18:13
My P220 is "JK"...1989...also marked "Herndon VA", my P226 is "Exeter NH"

Bro KV
05-16-2012, 20:05
My P220 is "JK"...1989...also marked "Herndon VA", my P226 is "Exeter NH"

In 1985, Sigarms Inc. was created as the American branch of SIG in Tysons Corner, Virginia to import the P220 and P230. In 1987 Sigarms moved to Herndon, Virginia, and in 1990 moved to Exeter, New Hampshire to accommodate new manufacturing.

TalkToTheGlock
05-16-2012, 22:20
In 1985, Sigarms Inc. was created as the American branch of SIG in Tysons Corner, Virginia to import the P220 and P230. In 1987 Sigarms moved to Herndon, Virginia, and in 1990 moved to Exeter, New Hampshire to accommodate new manufacturing.



Correct. Before that Interarms Imported all P226 pistols from 1982-1984 (Technically only 83 and 84) for the civilian market until Sig set up shop in the states.

fnfalman
05-16-2012, 22:47
Correct. Before that Interarms Imported all P226 pistols from 1982-1984 (Technically only 83 and 84) for the civilian market until Sig set up shop in the states.

Don't forget that Browning imported the Euro mag release P220 as the BDA before SIG had an official presence in the USA.

gunsnhoses
05-17-2012, 15:01
Why is no one adding pics today? This is my P226 "Navy". Got it lightly used for $650. Sits in my bedside safe with TLR-1 attached. This thing is a tank and every bit as accurate as the shooter. There is a reason the NSW group chose it as their sidearm.
http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv67/GandH/IMGP1286.jpg

jlruiz32
05-17-2012, 15:03
Went and picked up my G23 today, unfortunately the p226 was gone. Oh well, that's the way it goes. Next time.

thisaway
05-17-2012, 16:27
Luckily for you, there are many older P226s out there...just be patient and one will probably come along for you. :thumbsup:

TalkToTheGlock
05-17-2012, 16:46
Why is no one adding pics today? This is my P226 "Navy". Got it lightly used for $650. Sits in my bedside safe with TLR-1 attached. This thing is a tank and every bit as accurate as the shooter. There is a reason the NSW group chose it as their sidearm.
http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv67/GandH/IMGP1286.jpg

I'll play!


http://img.tapatalk.com/ae370938-7fab-924c.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/ae370938-7fbd-90b0.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/ae370938-7fcc-1ed2.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/ae370938-7fd5-62bc.jpg

pat701
05-17-2012, 17:05
I picked up a CPO P226 for $575 from bud's two weeks ago. It turns out to be 1990 with all 3 matching ser#. Looks brand new. Took it out today for first time 350 rds 9MM no hicups. This gun is more accurate then i am i love it.:wow:

TalkToTheGlock
05-18-2012, 09:23
I picked up a CPO P226 for $575 from bud's two weeks ago. It turns out to be 1990 with all 3 matching ser#. Looks brand new. Took it out today for first time 350 rds 9MM no hicups. This gun is more accurate then i am i love it.:wow:

Congrats! When you get one from the CPO program it is as good as new. I believe they update the internals also.

I've been contemplating picking up a Mk25, but my WG Sigs are doing the job just fine.

fowler
05-18-2012, 20:03
Get a new USA made Sig 226 with the stronger one piece milled stainless slide there service life is many times more than the old welded carbon 3 piece slide with pinned breechblock. The welded German slides are rated for 50,000 rds of standard pressure ammo and rust,spread with heavy use,(the breech block gets driven back into the welded slide and spread it apart). The New USA made slides are rated for 100,000's of rounds and +P,+P+ ammo. One reason along rusting problems the USA Navy Special Warfare units like the SEAL's only use USA one piece stainless steel Ionbond Nitron coated &phospated inners USA made MK-models of the 226.

jlruiz32
05-20-2012, 08:47
Now I found a local guy that is selling a used p226 Navy for $625. I think I'll give him a call after the gun show today.

TalkToTheGlock
05-20-2012, 08:48
Now I found a local guy that is selling a used p226 Navy for $625. I think I'll give him a call after the gun show today.

That's a great price! I'd jump on if I were you!

jlruiz32
05-20-2012, 08:51
Yeah, I looked all over online for price comparisons. It's a good price. I called to ask about it but no answer and no voicemail.