E-mail from Costco / Rhino Metals re: Bighorn safe security issue [Archive] - Glock Talk

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Ironbar
06-22-2012, 20:44
Just got this email from Costco and Rhino Metals today:



June 22, 2012

Important Security Announcement

Dear Costco Member:

Costco’s records indicate that you purchased a Bighorn gun safe between July 2009, and June 2012. We hope you are enjoying the quality of your Bighorn safe, and we appreciate your trust and loyalty to our products.

As part of our ongoing quality control program, Rhino Metals, Inc. has determined that certain models and serial numbers of these safes are vulnerable to a particular type of attack that we feel you should be protected against. We have developed a simple remedy that only takes a few minutes.

If your safe is one of the models listed below and falls with the serial number or purchase date ranges indicated below, your safe requires this remedy to eliminate the vulnerability.

Model Costco Item No. Last 8 digits of serial number
Bighorn Classic 19ECB 569035, 576060 11040001-11040850, 11050001-11051100, 11060001-11060070,11090001-11091108,11101009-11103224, 11120001-11123506, 12010001-12011295, 12030001-12030340
Bighorn Classic 24ECC 509685, 512388 All
Bighorn Classic 32ECC 510937, 512295 All
Bighorn Classic 5928EC 443784 All
Bighorn Classic 5928ECBS 603783 All
Bighorn Classic 5928ECBS-L 664318 All
Bighorn Classic 5928ECC 533512, 536926 All
Bighorn Classic 5928ECC-SPL 533512, 536926 All
Bighorn 6030 399366 10020001-10020210, 10050001-10050060, 11010001-11010220, 11040001-11040260, 11060001-11060210, 11090001-11090260, 12010001-12010210, 12020001-12020260
Bighorn 6039 399367, 443071, 594655 10050001-10050040, 11030001-11030210,11070001-11070210, 11090001-11090240
Bighorn 7144 399370, 594653 10050001-10050100, 10100001-10100039, 10110040-10110200, 11030001-11030100, 11070001-11070200, 11110001-11110200, 12010001-12010200

If your safe serial number falls within any of these number ranges, please visit http://www.rhinosafe.com/pe12.php for more information. You may also call our consumer support team at 888-751-4244, 24 hours a day/ 7 days a week.

We are ready to assist you with any questions you have regarding this letter. When contacting consumer support, please have your safe serial number available to help speed the registration process. Once registered, we will send you, free of charge, the necessary part along with installation instructions.

Please pass this letter on to any person to whom the safe may have been sold or given. For continued security, we urge you to take advantage of this product improvement program and apologize for any inconvenience. We thank you for supporting the Bighorn safe brand.

Sincerely,

Rhino Metals, Inc.



http://www.rhinosafe.com/pe12.php


Damn, mine is apparently one with a security issue. Filled out the online form, and they're sending me the fix instructions.

Don H
06-25-2012, 12:56
Do yourself a favor, sell the Rhino safe and get a quality safe.

eracer
06-25-2012, 13:41
Do yourself a favor, sell the Rhino safe and get a quality safe.What qualifies you to make that statement?

Interior Features:


Thick quality automotive grade upholstery
30.65 Cubic feet
Holds up to 51 long guns
Adjustable shelving
Two full-width top shelves
Predrilled for anchoring to the floor
Predrilled for dehumidifier

Security Features:


External hinge door, fully opening provides greater access than internal hinged designs
5.75” thick door
ULŽ RSC security rating
Heavy bodied construction – 1050 lbs.
ULŽ rated electronic-lock
3 layer armored hard plate to protect the lock
Spring loaded re-locker keeps safe secure if lock is tampered with or removed
Massive 1.5” diameter locking door bolts
14 total locking door bolts, 3 way active

Fire Protection:


1050 lbs. - 70 minute/1200 degree F fire protection
Expandable door seal – helps keep out smoke and heat
Fully lined, no uncovered hot spot areas like internal hinge design



Nothing wrong with those specs in a <$2,000 safe.

larry_minn
06-25-2012, 14:03
Do yourself a favor, sell the Rhino safe and get a quality safe.

While I wouldn't trade mine for it. Its a heck of a lot better then the closet most folks use. (with no lock on door)
I would bet it stops 90% of folks. I.E. service personal who get into your house/apt for work and grab what they can/or smash in/grab what they saw earlier. Dedicated folks will get into any mass produced "gun safe" A $30 grinder (and of course nearby plug in) will get into most before 2nd blade.

Don H
06-25-2012, 15:13
................

Don H
06-25-2012, 15:15
While I wouldn't trade mine for it. Its a heck of a lot better then the closet most folks use. (with no lock on door)
I would bet it stops 90% of folks. I.E. service personal who get into your house/apt for work and grab what they can/or smash in/grab what they saw earlier. Dedicated folks will get into any mass produced "gun safe" A $30 grinder (and of course nearby plug in) will get into most before 2nd blade.

I agree that pretty much any safe is better than the closet.

PPinesRon
06-25-2012, 15:23
Hey, thanks. I didn't get the letter, but my safe came under the announcement. I'm guessing my kid's safe is affected also, as we bought both about the same time.

Thanks again (from my kid also, I'm sure).

eracer
06-26-2012, 03:38
Well for one I used to work in the safe industry. Moved, installed & serviced anything from gun safes up to high end safes and vaults found in banks. A relative of mine that I used to work for has over thirty years experience in the field and owns several stores that sells safes from around a thousand dollars to safes that are over twenty five thousand dollars.

You see specs like 5.75" door and simply don't understand what that actually means, 5.75" sounds and looks like a massive door however two to three inches is nothing more than frame that hides / supports the bolt work (offers zero protection against a penetration type attack) and the rest of the door is a sheet rock type fire material that is wrapped by a very thin layer of metal. As far as the bolt work is concerned it really doesn't matter how many bolts there are if they're not properly supported in case of a pry attack. The "big horn" safes are very poorly designed, they basically use a very thin sheet metal on the body and door, are skip welded, use very cheap locks, and have very poorly designed bolt work. A person with minimal skills could gain access to the safe in a matter of minutes.

For a little more money you could get say an amsec BF that uses quality S&G locks, thick body and door construction, good bolt work design and real fire protection. Door is 1/2" thick solid A36 steel backed by cement like burglary / fire material. Body is two inches thick and made of a thinner metal that encases the burglary / fire material. This is very similar to how actual commercial U.L. rated safes are constructed only they use a stronger / higher PSI type fill material. The bolt work and locks of the amsec are far superior to the bighorn safe. Amsec has been around for many years and is a real safe company, they build anything from gun safes to TL30x6 commercial safes that are over $10k.


And fyi, the big horn safe should not be confused with the American made Rhino safe. The Rhino safe is actually a decent safe for the money, the "big horn" that Rhino import's from China is not so good.





.
I bow to your superior knowledge. Still, any pro can get into any mid-priced safe in a short period of time. Agreed? I mean, a plasma cutter will make short work of anything, right?

I bought the Big Horn because it will defeat the casual thief. My alarm system, provides another layer of protection. I know the door isn't 5" thick, but it is 10ga. steel, and that should defeat an amateur thief.

I couldn't afford a $4K safe (I know, I know - what are my guns worth?) but again, I'm concerned about the thief who breaks in, sees a safe, hears the alarm going off, and says, no way I'm going after the contents of THAT!

Hopefully, he won't have a big sledgehammer and a halligan with him, and won't know what you know....:wavey:

Also - what is the UL RSC rating? Bottom of the barrel?

BoyCanShoot
06-26-2012, 05:48
Does anyone know what piece(s) or components Rhino is replacing or amending on these safes? I'm not interested in knowing the vulnerability, just curious about their offered remediation.

Don H
06-26-2012, 13:01
...............

holesinpaper
06-26-2012, 23:38
This is one of the reasons I like the amsec BF and similar safes Still just a RSC. Give me demo saw and 10 minutes and I'm in, and I've never played a locksmith on TV.

Don H
06-27-2012, 00:50
Still just a RSC. Give me demo saw and 10 minutes and I'm in, and I've never played a locksmith on TV.

Hell, you might as well use TNT! You ever used a demo saw on concrete, makes one hellacious cloud! I can see a burglar using a loud a$% gas demo saw to cut open a concrete safe in a confined area. :rofl:




.

eracer
06-27-2012, 05:05
I wasn't trying to be an A-hole with my first post, just that I have seen and dealt with people that purchased very similar low ends safes only to find out the hard way that what they had wasn't much of a safe at all.Thank you for your thoughtful and detailed explanation of things.

I'm stuck with what I bought, but when I move the safe to its new home (my new home) in a year, I will refer back to this page in order to maximize its effectiveness.

I still find it mind-boggling to believe that someone could use a crowbar to open my safe, but sometimes the truth is simply the truth...

DustyJacket
06-27-2012, 05:10
Thanks - mine is subject to the recall.

It was the best I could afford ($550).

There was a much better one in another store on clearence, but it was gone once I got the money.

I'd love to afford a better safe but cannot. So this is better than locked aluminum gun boxes cabled to a bedframe....... or those 1 cubic foot safes I used.

FAS1
06-27-2012, 08:44
Does anyone know what piece(s) or components Rhino is replacing or amending on these safes? I'm not interested in knowing the vulnerability, just curious about their offered remediation.

I'm curious as well. Anyone know?

DustyJacket
06-27-2012, 16:03
All it says is that you need a scredriver and an adjustable wrench.

I assume we will be taking off the back of the door and adding some sort of reinforcement. Maybe to the bolts? or .......

PPinesRon
07-09-2012, 16:08
I'm curious as well. Anyone know?

I received the part today. It's the center shaft. Takes 5-10 minutes to replace with an adjustable wrench and Phillips screwdriver. Directions are simple and easy to follow, though, not listed, you'll need lithium (or equivalent) grease for the shaft (it's on the original shaft).

DustyJacket
07-09-2012, 16:49
Got mine today, as well.

Only difference I see id=s the end is squared off instead of flat on 2 sides....

Ironbar
07-09-2012, 20:44
Hmmm, still haven't gotten mine yet. May have to call them.

captdreifus
10-19-2012, 00:33
Resurrecting old thread...


Has anyone else encountered a safe that does not remained locked? I swear I turn the handle all the way in the morning and when I come home its unlocked...(no one else has combo)

Thanks.

holesinpaper
10-19-2012, 00:58
Resurrecting old thread...


Has anyone else encountered a safe that does not remained locked? I swear I turn the handle all the way in the morning and when I come home its unlocked...(no one else has combo)

Thanks.

Gotta also twist the dial. :whistling:

captdreifus
10-19-2012, 03:36
Gotta also twist the dial. :whistling:

Mines electronic.

larry_minn
10-19-2012, 05:57
Resurrecting old thread...


Has anyone else encountered a safe that does not remained locked? I swear I turn the handle all the way in the morning and when I come home its unlocked...(no one else has combo)

Thanks.

I enlarge screen so I didn't see dates/who posted. Kinda fun to read my own reply and think. "Who posted that? I agree with him" and see it was me. :0 :0

Regards your question. Some info on safe brand/lock (I see electronic in later reply)
Who has access to safe during day? Did you change orig combo? (most everyone knows factory preset) Do you check the lock is fully engaged when you close? (attempt to open @ 10 seconds after lock)
I am no expert. My understanding is keypad is just that. The important stuff is INSIDE door. We have some posters here (one above) who will have detailed knowledge of what might be wrong/need to be replaced/if something you can remove/get new parts.
I know on my Fort Knox its a 15 minute jobe with minimal tools to change from S&G combo to electronic. (at gun show)
I would replace batteries, change combo (with door OPEN) then lock safe. If someone is playing trick when you get back safe will NOT open. (too many failed attempts) IIRC 24 hrs later most electronic locks will allow proper combo to unlock. I have heard safe guys talk about how often reason safe won't open is some kids play with combo until it times out. (safe owner gets ticked for full charge)
I had that happen on engine. I changed/checked everything but didn't put in new points (I had the dang things) because they were like new. Somehow some crap got in them. 10 seconds with emery board and runs fine. I paid the man. (and was mad at myself)

CBennett
10-19-2012, 06:14
Im glad my collection is so crappy I can store them in a $200 safe and thats only to keep them out of the kids hands. A safe is going to be this years Christmas present but since my collection isnt over $1500 total lol Im fine with the cheapie :) .