S&W Red Loc-Tite. [Archive] - Glock Talk

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Foxtrotx1
07-10-2012, 18:14
I was planning on changing my 317 springs to a lighter set, both rebound and hammer. Problem is, upon getting one of the side plate screws out, (with much effort) I noticed a dab of red loc-tite on the threads.

The others won't budge. At All. The screw I got out was the most forward one, towards the muzzle.

I can't use heat (or can I?) because I'm afraid of bubbling/damaging the clear coat finish.

Not Happy with Smith for using red lock-tite. :steamed:

Should I give them a call? Or is there something I can do?

Thanks
Foxtrotx1

janice6
07-10-2012, 18:19
If it were my problem, I would find a screwdriver that fit the screw head almost exactly. Then I would heat the screwdriver shaft watching you don't get flame on the pistol frame. Heat will soften any epoxy or loctite.

Good luck and my fingers are crossed for you.

elde
07-10-2012, 18:22
What janice6 said.

Otherwise I'd take it to a gunsmith at Scottsdale Gun Club and get it done properly.

Foxtrotx1
07-10-2012, 18:40
Thanks for the help! that worked well!

Berto
07-10-2012, 18:45
Those sideplate screws sometimes really require a proper screwdriver without the tapered edge before you can really put pressure in it, otherwise you bugger the screw and possibly scratch the gun.
Are you sure you want to go lighter on the springs....? Rimfires really need a solid hammer hit.

Foxtrotx1
07-10-2012, 21:14
Those sideplate screws sometimes really require a proper screwdriver without the tapered edge before you can really put pressure in it, otherwise you bugger the screw and possibly scratch the gun.
Are you sure you want to go lighter on the springs....? Rimfires really need a solid hammer hit.

I dropped to a 14 lb rebound and 9 hammer. Reset is still fast and positive, hammer, weeeell see. As long as I don't get a misfire in 200 or so mini mags ill call it good. :cool:

Jason D
07-11-2012, 17:37
Had that not worked, you could have also touched the screw with a soldering iron.