Please give a newbie some basic advice [Archive] - Glock Talk

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taxmann2
08-06-2012, 22:43
Ok, I have a Dillon square deal b, 10mm dies, brass (new starline), Accurate #9, but no bullets. I also have wolf and CCI primers. So, I am thinking of buying some hornady xtp 180gr bullets at Bass Pro to make some stout loads. What other bullets should I invest in for target shooting? FMJ? TMJ? (what does "t" stand for?) Lead? I am considering lead just for the volume, as I want to shoot quite a bit, and lead is cheaper. I am going to order an aftermarket barrel, too. Probably 6".

Please list 3 top choices for bullets.

Thanks so much for the assistance. I can't wait to load up some 10mm goodness.

robert91922
08-07-2012, 01:45
Try initial loadings w. some 180gr copper plated bullets first. Saves quite some money, especially for beginning when you start to load. Copper plated bullets have only a thin layer of copper on their surface instead of thick copper-zinc jacket that FMJ bullets have.
About FMJ vs. TMJ I found this explanation:
"FMJ has exposed lead in the base, TMJ has no exposed lead."
More explanation:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/ammo/110162-fmj-vs-tmj.html

BMiracletx
08-07-2012, 07:02
TMJ is Total Metal Jacket. No exposed lead anywhere on the bullet. FMJ has the lead exposed at the base (Just like Robert said).

For a good light target load, I like a 155 copper plated bullet over 6 grs of Winchester 231. Good light recoil and accurate. Definitely not a heavy hitter though.

DWARREN123
08-07-2012, 07:09
For jacketed I always like a hollow point and as for lead SnS Castings 175gr SWC's (www.snscasting.com (http://www.snscasting.com)).
Hornady is hard to beat in 180gr or 200gr for the XTP's in 10mm.

BMiracletx
08-07-2012, 07:25
Hornady is hard to beat in 180gr or 200gr for the XTP's in 10mm.

I use the 200 XTPs over Longshot powder loaded to a tick over 1200 fps for hog hunting... it sure does a number on them! 180s pushing 1300 will do a number on deer or smaller hogs.

_The_Shadow
08-07-2012, 09:33
Not knowing what bullets are avalible to you locally...Find the cheapest bullets to practice loading and shooting with, FMJ/TMJ to hone your loading skills with...By that I mean setting up your dies, scale, and other tools to get them adjusted to make quality ammo. Then you'll be able to check your work by firing them for function and inspection.

Hornady bullets 155gr,165gr, 180gr, & 200gr can cover a broad spectrum of hunting, target and self defense in 10mm.

Take your time to inspect and measure what you are doing at each step. Like many of us you may find it better to seat the bullets to depth without applying any crimp then in a seprate step crimp to finish them.
Good luck!

BMiracletx
08-07-2012, 14:56
[QUOTE=Take your time to inspect and measure what you are doing at each step. Like many of us you may find it better to seat the bullets to depth without applying any crimp then in a seprate step crimp to finish them.
Good luck![/QUOTE]

+1 here. I load on the Hornady progressive press. I seat without a crimp, measure OAL, and then the final station is a taper crimp die.

Taterhead
08-07-2012, 23:23
Top 3 bullet choices:

Target loads: PowerBond 180 gr FP copper bonded. powerbondbullets.com. It is a superior "plated" bullet that can be driven faster than Berry's or Rainier plated bullets.
All around versatility: 180 gr XTP
Wilderness protection: 200 gr WFNGC hardcast (available from Double Tap or Beartooth)

I see that you have A9 powder. Great choice. I have developed nice loads for all of the bullets you mention with A9 powder.

My target load is the PowerBond mentioned above, Starline cases, CCI 300s and 13.5 grains A9. COL is 1.25". That chronies about 1175 fps.

I load the 200 gr WFNGC to 1200+ fps. Please work up to that carefully.

A nice stout, but not nuclear, load for the 180 gr XTP is 14.0 grains of A9 with a CCI 300 primer. That averages 1225 fps from my G20. That is above Accurate's max, but a ways below Hornady's max.

Please reduce the charge weights mentioned above by at least 10% and work up in 0.2 grain increments; checking carefully for indications of excessive pressure.

glockout
08-08-2012, 18:43
If you are truly a newbie don't start by trying to make a full power load. That is bad juju. Best load for a new loader is either a 38 or 44 caliber revolver. Semi-auto cartridges are less forgiving that the older rimmed cartridges.

If you are starting with loading in 10mm I would use a medium powder like Unique and start at the bottom of the recommended load for your bullet.

If you load in the upper reaches of any cartridge get a chrony. Keep good records about the overall length, the velocity, check for case bulging and primer flattening. The last thing you want is blown gun and the damage to yourself.

I would add one thing: Stick what you see in published loads like Lymans. Don't start with the loads you see posted in this forum. Some of them are too hot. It is up to you.

alank2
08-08-2012, 18:45
Hi,

If you are looking for some 200gr FMJ bullets, rozedist.com has them.

http://www.rozedist.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RZD&Product_Code=R144-A&Category_Code=ZBJ-40SW

$126.65 for 1K shipped. I just got some last week.

Thanks,

Alan

taxmann2
08-08-2012, 21:00
If you are truly a newbie don't start by trying to make a full power load. That is bad juju. Best load for a new loader is either a 38 or 44 caliber revolver. Semi-auto cartridges are less forgiving that the older rimmed cartridges.

If you are starting with loading in 10mm I would use a medium powder like Unique and start at the bottom of the recommended load for your bullet.

If you load in the upper reaches of any cartridge get a chrony. Keep good records about the overall length, the velocity, check for case bulging and primer flattening. The last thing you want is blown gun and the damage to yourself.

I would add one thing: Stick what you see in published loads like Lymans. Don't start with the loads you see posted in this forum. Some of them are too hot. It is up to you.

I have a lymans manual, that is what I will go by to start. The person I bought the press from is coming by to help me setup and get started. I plan to slowly work up to more powerful loads later. I want to shoot lead for practice, but I also want to shoot XTPs for defensive load practice. I'll probably load 155 or 165 xtp rounds over #9 and get them hotter as I go. I have no plans to load any .38 or .44 or anything else at this time. I only care about 10mm. I've sold most of the other stuff and I plan to buy another 10mm soon.

dm1906
08-08-2012, 21:39
If you are truly a newbie don't start by trying to make a full power load. That is bad juju. Best load for a new loader is either a 38 or 44 caliber revolver. Semi-auto cartridges are less forgiving that the older rimmed cartridges.

If you are starting with loading in 10mm I would use a medium powder like Unique and start at the bottom of the recommended load for your bullet.

If you load in the upper reaches of any cartridge get a chrony. Keep good records about the overall length, the velocity, check for case bulging and primer flattening. The last thing you want is blown gun and the damage to yourself.

I would add one thing: Stick what you see in published loads like Lymans. Don't start with the loads you see posted in this forum. Some of them are too hot. It is up to you.

Yeah, what he said. Remember, we are dealing with MORE pressure than any magnum cartridge less/earlier than a .454. When bad things happen, they happen bad, even with modest loads. Revolvers have NO moving parts during/after the firing of a round (unless something bad happened), while most of an auto's parts are moving during/after. A lot of things can go wrong. Any auto-pistol under the best conditions, is chaos in control, on the ragged edge of disaster every time we squeeze the trigger. Maybe we're just really lucky???