Glock 20 Question in Connector [Archive] - Glock Talk

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johncalloway
09-30-2012, 13:52
I have a glock 20 I just bought used. I tried to put a new 3.5 connector that I have had in several of my other glocks so I know it's not the connector. I put it in, and wouldn't fire so I thought. I took apart and put it back in several times, and it wouldn't fire, which led me to taking my glock back apart the long way several times. Last time I took it apart and reinstalled it, and put it together still wouldn't fire. Frustrated, I shook it in my hand and click. Thats right, shaking it made it fire. So what is the deal? What does that mean? Thanks in Advance.

VN350X10
09-30-2012, 13:54
You say it was bought used.....did you test-fire it before doing ANYTHING else ?

uncle albert

TattooedGlock
09-30-2012, 14:08
It means you didn't need the 3.5 connector and that it would have shot fine if you'd have let it be; or it's broke. :) Ok, really though, it sounds like one of the spring ends wasn't seated right and shaking it put it in place.

johncalloway
09-30-2012, 14:48
its fine with the stock connector. It's not broke. Something is just not right on thie connector for this Glock. It's not a out of place problem. When I put stock connector in it is fine. maybe they have changed something else in it and its to light for the new connector. Like I said I know this connector is fine. It has been in 3 other glocks, but not this one.

johncalloway
09-30-2012, 21:57
Ok update!!

I just put it in my buddy's Glock 21, and it works fine. So that covers my theory about it be doing something in a large frame

Next theory is, something has been changed out in mine, which may make it not work. I'm thinking a spring. Anyone know which spring it may be?

Any Cal.
09-30-2012, 22:08
See if his trigger bar works in your gun with that connector, not much else left.

arushus
09-30-2012, 22:28
Sounds like the trigger bar isnt being forced down far enough to release the striker. Is there some sort of over-travel device installed?

johncalloway
10-01-2012, 01:08
No there's no over travel in there. It's almost like its to light for it because shaking it makes it fire. Could someone have changed it to a ny spring that makes it to light.

johncalloway
10-01-2012, 01:09
I should add shaking it while holding the trigger makes it fire. By the way this is unloaded at the kitchen table. Don't want everyone thinking I'm at the range shaking this thing wildly around.

johncalloway
10-01-2012, 01:11
He's already gone. I should have swapped out the whole assembly and tried it. Didn't even think of that.

VN350X10
10-01-2012, 18:59
Just on a wild ***** guess, check your STRIKER spring......

I've had problems with using a Wolff light weight striker spring, misfires, not fire, too light to fire, etc.
The lg. frame guns don't like them. Work great in the small guns.
Not positive, but worth checking.

uncle albert

Arc Angel
10-01-2012, 19:51
Internet gunsmithing is never easy. Are you 100% positive that you haven't got some sort of trigger stop installed in that pistol? (Look behind the left-hand side, 'drop safety wing'. Do you see a little set screw?)

Here's what's happening: There is a downward angle towards the rear of the slide on a 4.5# (nominal 3.5#) connector. The trigger bar is proceeding to this point and, then, getting hung up (for whatever reason) on the extreme downward slope of the connector bar. It's just hanging there until you shake the pistol; and, voila, the trigger bar's, 'bird's head' suddenly slips off the connector, and the FP lug snaps forward firing the pistol.

Something, I have no idea what, is impeding the movement of the trigger bar. You don't have a connector problem; what you have is a trigger bar and, possibly, a trigger housing problem. Me? I'd change the trigger housing unit, first. If that didn't work, then I'd change the trigger bar, too.

Here's that angle I'm talking about:

http://imageshack.us/a/img827/5303/glockconnectortypes.jpg

arushus
10-02-2012, 02:57
Internet gunsmithing is never easy. Are you 100% positive that you haven't got some sort of trigger stop installed in that pistol? (Look behind the left-hand side, 'drop safety wing'. Do you see a little set screw?)

Here's what's happening: There is a downward angle towards the rear of the slide on a 4.5# (nominal 3.5#) connector. The trigger bar is proceeding to this point and, then, getting hung up (for whatever reason) on the extreme downward slope of the connector bar. It's just hanging there until you shake the pistol; and, voila, the trigger bar's, 'bird's head' suddenly slips off the connector, and the FP lug snaps forward firing the pistol.

Something, I have no idea what, is impeding the movement of the trigger bar. You don't have a connector problem; what you have is a trigger bar and, possibly, a trigger housing problem. Me? I'd change the trigger housing unit, first. If that didn't work, then I'd change the trigger bar, too.

Here's that angle I'm talking about:

http://imageshack.us/a/img827/5303/glockconnectortypes.jpg

This is exactly what I was thinking, just didnt feel like typing all that out on a blackberry playbook...
Sounds like there is an issue with the trigger bar not going far enough to the rear and far enough down to release the striker. Could be the trigger bar or the trigger housing like angel said.

johncalloway
10-02-2012, 06:45
I just got home from work. I took the slide off hoping to see a set screw. Nope, nada. What would have happened to the trigger bar or housing?

johncalloway
10-02-2012, 06:47
Might be a good time to install a lone wolf over travel housing. I was going to just get a rocket, but since I got to change it anyway ill
Just go that route.

Arc Angel
10-02-2012, 07:16
This is exactly what I was thinking, just didnt feel like typing all that out on a blackberry playbook...

Sounds like there is an issue with the trigger bar not going far enough to the rear and far enough down to release the striker. Could be the trigger bar or the trigger housing like angel said.

Great minds think alike! ;)

Yes, it's fairly obvious that something is impeding trigger bar travel. The question is, 'What'?

I just got home from work. I took the slide off hoping to see a set screw. Nope, nada. What would have happened to the trigger bar or housing?

John, without actually holding your Glock in my hands I'm unable to tell what's going on. You could have any of the following: (or, maybe, even something I'm unfamiliar with)

:faint:

There could be something stuck behind either one of the drop safety, 'wings'. The trigger housing slots could be gouged. I'm wondering whether or not your FP safety is functioning properly, too. I'm even curious to know if your trigger bar is, somehow, torqued? Is there a burr on the, 'bird's head'?

Like I said, 'Internet gunsmithing can be tough!' About the only thing I do not doubt is that your trigger bar is hanging up on the, 'negative slope' of that 4.5# connector. It's NOT dropping enough to fully release the striker lug. So, you're going to have to tell me what mechanical idiosyncrasy is impeding the bar's continued rearward travel and subsequent fall? :dunno:


ADDED: Answer me this! What is the number on your trigger bar's cruciform?

johncalloway
10-02-2012, 11:17
Ok. New update. I went to my LGS. He's a glock armored. I figured I would buy a new connector and if there was a problem, he would figure it out. He had a ghost. One that has been giving me trouble was a zevtech. He brought it back installed, and worked like a dream. I told him my problem. He said because of glocks tolerances. I guess he means loose, some connectors have problems.

Java Junky
10-02-2012, 11:26
Nit pickin': the bar with the minus sign is the factory Glock 4.5 lb.
If the 3.5 has a minus sign on it, then they've both got that minus sign.
('Least that's what I've been readin'.)

dm1906
10-02-2012, 15:48
Nit pickin': the bar with the minus sign is the factory Glock 4.5 lb.
If the 3.5 has a minus sign on it, then they've both got that minus sign.
('Least that's what I've been readin'.)

I have 2 original Glock connectors in front of me now (from my Gen 3 G20, and Gen 2 G22). They are exactly as the middle one in the pic. No - marking. Both have slight wear marks (similar to a -) near the same area, but it's not an intentional mark/stamp, just a wear mark on the finish.

Any Cal.
10-02-2012, 18:45
3.5 was renamed 4.5 and is identified by "-". No marking on stock 5.5. 8lb has "+". There is also a "." 5 lb for the newer gen4, to reduce the heavy pull on the redesigned trigger bar.

GGGN
10-04-2012, 15:55
Had same prob. when I installed 3.5 in one of my glocks. Happens sometimes

Java Junky
10-04-2012, 16:14
Would you care to elaborate GG?
'Just ordered a pair'a 3.5's.

Java Junky
10-04-2012, 16:16
'Not arguin' AnyCal, just askin' 'cause I don't know: but the price of a 4.5 connector is somethin' like 15 bucks and the same outfits carrying the 3.5 is 25 of your hard-earned.
Is the newbie bein' hosed?

GGGN
10-05-2012, 07:05
Had a NIB and wanted to put a 3.5 in it and it would not reset. Would work once and only once. Put that 3.5 c in a different gun and it worked fine. Some triggerbars and con. do not work together. Does not happen often but it has happens before with different glocks I have installed them in for the shop. So I new how to fix it. I would not worry you will be fine.

arushus
10-05-2012, 08:30
'Not arguin' AnyCal, just askin' 'cause I don't know: but the price of a 4.5 connector is somethin' like 15 bucks and the same outfits carrying the 3.5 is 25 of your hard-earned.
Is the newbie bein' hosed?

The glock "-" 4.5lb connector from glockmeister was the same price as most other 3.5lb connectors, $25...at least it was when I bought one...

Java Junky
10-05-2012, 08:50
'Much obliged guys.

'Only reason I asked 'shus, was because I had just ordered the 3.5 from the GlockStore and I'd noted the price difference while I was hemmin'n hawin'.

Hey . . as long as I don't have time to go out for coffee between when I first start creepin'er back'n when she finally sends one downrange . . I'll be happy.
Y'know?

Any Cal.
10-05-2012, 11:26
I have had a couple trigger issues from fooling with them too much, and was looking at some options. I called Carver about one of the trigger kits he builds, and he said there is a big difference between the Glock 3.5/4.5 and the other connectors. He said that at times others are requested, but it takes considerably longer to get them working as well as the Glock. He sells all of them, but reccomends the Glock by far. Everyone charges more for it, I don't think any place in particular is trying to gouge on it, except possibly Glock.

I bought the cheap ones before, but one started galling from lack of lube, and one had the wrong angle and lost tension when I changed it a bit, and now won't hardly let the bar grab the striker. I think I will go factory next time around and see if it makes things easier. Paying $10 more could be cheap if it isn't a constant hassle.