trigger job gone bad [Archive] - Glock Talk

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d123gaw
10-06-2012, 15:49
OK. Don't b**** at me I knew I might screw up when I did it. I polished my trigger bar a little too much and now my gun goes bang when i pull the trigger and bang when I RELEASE the trigger. (a good double tap). But it did scare me a bit at first. I'm going to order a new trigger bar with a smooth trigger and start again.

Butch
10-06-2012, 16:56
Yup, ya round off the edges of these two just a little and that's what happens. A new trigger bar may fix it, but a new firing pin is a good idea too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/ButchG17/Glock%20pics/Firingpin-triggerbar.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/ButchG17/Glock%20pics/FP-TBengagement.jpg

Remington 870
10-06-2012, 17:41
all you needed is fltz polish and a rag or q tip. polish till the parts are shiny and re-assemble. I polish all the parts that have metal to metal contact. this improves the feel of the trigger a ton! hope this helps. ps you dont need any power tools at all.

seanmac45
10-06-2012, 17:52
And the dremel tool strikes again..................

d123gaw
10-06-2012, 18:05
seanmac45 where did that Hemmingway quote come from?
I've seen it before but never knew it's origin.

1-2man
10-06-2012, 18:05
I polish my internals at the range. 1,000 or so rounds seem to do the trick. ;)

seanmac45
10-06-2012, 18:22
seanmac45 where did that Hemmingway quote come from?
I've seen it before but never knew it's origin.


The source of the quote;

Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter.
Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936
US author & journalist (1899 - 1961)

I use it because it was the motto of the NYPD Citywide Anti-Crime team prior to it being disbanded.

It sums up my feelings about retirement perfectly.

dakrat
10-06-2012, 18:42
this will give you the edge in competition shooting. you will give Bob Vogel a run for his money.

SJ 40
10-06-2012, 18:56
And the dremel tool strikes again..................
Dremel,The gun smiths best friend and money maker. SJ 40

Arc Angel
10-06-2012, 19:29
There is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with using a Dremel Tool to do an action polish job with. (Every gunsmith I've ever known - and I've known a few - used both fine India stones, and a Dremel-like power tool for his trigger jobs.) In fact I consider using Flitz and a Q-Tip to be a complete waste of time for any, 'quality' Glock trigger job.

The real mistake the OP made is that he didn't stay away from the edges! NEVER TOUCH AN EDGE WITH A DREMEL TOOL. Too bad because while a ruined trigger bar ain't no big deal, Glock firing pins are really expensive!

Next time, work barehanded so you can gauge heat buildup in the piece. Don't, 'touchdown' for more than 5 or 6 seconds at a time; and STAY AWAY FROM THE COMPONENT EDGES.

SJ 40
10-06-2012, 19:56
There is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with using a Dremel Tool to do an action polish job with. (Every gunsmith I've ever known - and I've known a few - used both fine India stones, and a Dremel-like power tool for his trigger jobs.) In fact I consider using Flitz and a Q-Tip to be a complete waste of time for any, 'quality' Glock trigger job.

The real mistake the OP made is that he didn't stay away from the edges! NEVER TOUCH AN EDGE WITH A DREMEL TOOL. Too bad because while a ruined trigger bar ain't no big deal, Glock firing pins are really expensive!

Next time, work barehanded so you can gauge heat buildup in the piece. Don't, 'touchdown' for more than 5 or 6 seconds at a time; and STAY AWAY FROM THE COMPONENT EDGES.Like you said the key is where and how much.
I know a Ret. N. G. armor that does 1911 trigger jobs with out a jig,nice and crisp every time,where and how much is the key. SJ 40

M 7
10-06-2012, 22:32
OK. Don't b**** at me I knew I might screw up when I did it. I polished my trigger bar a little too much and now my gun goes bang when i pull the trigger and bang when I RELEASE the trigger. (a good double tap). But it did scare me a bit at first. I'm going to order a new trigger bar with a smooth trigger and start again.

At least the new parts aren't very expensive and can be had readily. :dunno:

Bruce M
10-06-2012, 22:33
this will give you the edge in competition shooting. you will give Bob Vogel a run for his money.
:rofl::rofl:

jb1911
10-07-2012, 06:15
There is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with using a Dremel Tool to do an action polish job with. (Every gunsmith I've ever known - and I've known a few - used both fine India stones, and a Dremel-like power tool for his trigger jobs.) In fact I consider using Flitz and a Q-Tip to be a complete waste of time for any, 'quality' Glock trigger job.

The real mistake the OP made is that he didn't stay away from the edges! NEVER TOUCH AN EDGE WITH A DREMEL TOOL. Too bad because while a ruined trigger bar ain't no big deal, Glock firing pins are really expensive!

Next time, work barehanded so you can gauge heat buildup in the piece. Don't, 'touchdown' for more than 5 or 6 seconds at a time; and STAY AWAY FROM THE COMPONENT EDGES.
:agree:

lethal tupperwa
10-07-2012, 07:29
Arc,

You give do it yourselfers that ( don't have a clue)

benifit of the doubt (that they have the experience and attention to detail that you do)

just don't let them fix anything for you.

ca survivor
10-07-2012, 09:08
And the dremel tool strikes again..................
:rofl::rofl:

Mochahooligan
10-07-2012, 09:14
I polish my internals at the range. 1,000 or so rounds seem to do the trick. ;)

This is the ONLY way I polish the internals too! Funny I thought I was the only one that did this????

Noponer
10-07-2012, 12:03
As Arc Angel says, be careful with the component edges.... or, at least, be very careful to not round them.

If the edges of the trigger bar and/or the connector (where they meet) are rounded too much, the bar will drop downward at the time of trigger reset (instead of the bar moving only sideways as designed). This can cause the "sear" of the bar to move down away from the "nose" (or "lug") of the firing pin, releasing it. BANG!

If you have plenty of sear/nose engagement (2/3 or more recommended by Glock & as Butch's sketch in post #2 above shows), the chances of this are reduced - but if the overlap is not large, firing on release of the trigger can happen. Many of the Glocks I have owned have only had about 1/2 engagement... from the factory.

Arc Angel
10-10-2012, 16:33
Arc,

You give do it yourselfers that ( don't have a clue) benifit of the doubt (that they have the experience and attention to detail that you do)

just don't let them fix anything for you.

Lethal, I can't argue with that; but, let's be perfectly honest: Half the fun of owning a Glock is, ....... :supergrin:

d123gaw
10-15-2012, 23:42
New trigger bar and new G.R. 3.5lb connector and the gun fires better than before. I really like the smooth face trigger.

pm666
10-21-2012, 21:10
Can one round the edges/lose the angles by using Flitz without a Dremel?

I would really like to smooth out the trigger a little, but I don't need/want what the OP wound up with.

janice6
10-21-2012, 21:21
Can one round the edges/lose the angles by using Flitz without a Dremel?

I would really like to smooth out the trigger a little, but I don't need/want what the OP wound up with.


If I were to polish any of my gun parts, I would apply the Fitz with my finger, to the surface of a small block of wood. Then take the part and lay each surface flat on the wood, while "lapping" it. Keep the part flat against the block to hold the surface flat, and the edges get no treatment at all.

This techneque when used with "polishing compound" works very well to sharpen wood tools without rounding the edges.

NEOH212
10-21-2012, 23:04
I've found that polishing the internals on a Glock yields little difference in most cases. The only time it's really noticeable is when the internals are really rough from tool marks or the like.

All you need to do the polishing is some fine polish and q-tips. In extreme cases, some 2,000 grit sand paper and honing oil works great.

The area of the trigger bar that the OP polished is the one area that I stay away from. It's a good measure of safety. In all the Glocks I've had apart, the interface between the striker and trigger bar is usually shiny and smooth with in a few range sessions and no amount of polishing is going to make it any smoother than it already is when it's like that.

The OP will be ok with a new trigger bar. He might also want to get the orange slide cover from Glock to inspect the area in question BEFORE he takes the gun to the range. There should be no less than 2/3 contact between the trigger bar and striker.

NEOH212
10-21-2012, 23:07
If one must polish that area in question, your better off with a extra fine stone and magnifiers to monitor your work. Go slow and check your work often.

Doing it free hand without taking some kind of measure to keep your angles consistent is asking for trouble.

owl6roll
10-22-2012, 07:14
Huumm....CLP works best.

CaptainXL
10-30-2012, 11:48
"I HAVE JUST ENOUGH KNOWLEDGE TO BE A DANGER TO MYSELF"

But, I guess this, unfortunately, is how people gain additional knowledge.

barth
10-30-2012, 12:14
I polish my internals at the range. 1,000 or so rounds seem to do the trick. ;)

+1
I don't mind tuning the trigger with spring and connector changes.
But 5000+ rounds and a little oil polishes my Glock right up - LOL.

And my baby shoots sweet...
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/thumbnail/photo40/e0/90/1fec21e6c63a__1351541121000.jpg?tw=0&th=720&s=true&rs=false

dhgeyer
10-30-2012, 13:04
Well, as it happens I just did the twenty five cent trigger job last night and I did use a Dremel tool with black polishing compound. Now, I had noticed quite a while ago that the angle on the back of the trigger bar did not match the angle of the front of the stud on the striker. This was very obvious, because after a few hundred rounds, the trigger bar had actually dug into the striker at the top of its engagement. This indicated that the back of the trigger bar was hard, sharp, and engaging the striker only at its top.

When I did what I did, I took a 1200 grit diamond hone and took enough off the stud on the striker to take out the indent from the trigger bar. I polished the back of the trigger bar only lightly at the very top, since it was only engaging at the top anyway. I did so little that I am positive I couldn't have changed any geometry.

Now, I know I didn't create anything dangerous, because I shot the gun this morning and it was fine. I did manage to improve the trigger.

However, reading this thread I got a bit curious and maybe even a little concerned. So I did a little test. I thoroughly blackened the back of the trigger bar and the front of the striker stud with a Sharpie. Then dry fired the gun several times. Upon taking the slide off and inspecting the both parts, I discovered that there was plenty of engagement, in fact about the full thickness of the trigger bar. However, I also must have rounded the striker stud a bit from side to side, as the area of engagement was fairly narrow in that dimension, and centered.

I have a spare striker assembly. Absolutely virgin stock Glock parts. I put that in and repeated my sharpie test. Again, there is plenty of engagement vertically. And again the area of engagement is fairly narrow side to side, but this time not centered. The trigger bar is only engaging the striker stud on one side.

I don't think there's any cause for concern with my gun with either striker, but I do find it interesting. It does not seem that Glock is manufacturing these parts with any great precision. The trigger bar looks like it's straight out of the stamping mill, including the back where it engages the striker.

JBS
10-30-2012, 13:12
dhgeyer, Do your engagement tests with a magazine with some snap caps or homemade dummies in the magazine as this will cause the slide to be lifted a few thousands just as it is when loaded.

dhgeyer
10-30-2012, 13:33
dhgeyer, Do your engagement tests with a magazine with some snap caps or homemade dummies in the magazine as this will cause the slide to be lifted a few thousands just as it is when loaded.

Well, at first I was inclined to decline, as I hate to waste good bullets. But then I figured, what the heck, a few dummy rounds might be good to have around. They're easy to tell from live stuff - no primers. I'll probably color them somehow. I made 7. I must say it still made me nervous running what looks like live ammo through my gun in the house!

Anyway, it didn't make any difference. I have no way of precisely measuring the engagement of course, but it doesn't look any different to me. Still about the thickness of the trigger bar, or close to it. This doesn't surprise me, as there is almost no vertical play in the slide at the rear. As you say, perhaps a few thousandths, but not enough to see or make any practical difference.

Good suggestion for a test, though!

JBS
10-30-2012, 14:10
Good, some have more “slack” than others.

In addition to no primer I drill a hole or two through the case of the dummy just like the old military ordinance proving dummies.

dhgeyer
10-30-2012, 19:45
My thanks to Bentbiker for making me aware of a tool called an inspection slide cover plate. I had never heard of such a thing. I Googled it, saw the pictures, and thought "what a great idea!".

It took me about 15 minutes to make a crude one out of a hinge I never used that was the right thickness. The hole drilled partway through is to give me a way to get it back off the slide.

Please do not click on the following link, as the photo has been removed and you will only get a "404 File Not Found".

http://gallery1700.net/linkto/inspectioncoverplate.jpg

It works. Looking into the back of the slide, I see what my Sharpie test showed me: there is plenty of engagement between the trigger bar and the striker stud.

So, thank you Bentbiker for that idea, and for added peace of mind.

Clutch Cargo
10-31-2012, 13:23
The whole idea is to make rough surfaces into smooth surfaces. An experienced 'smith can use power tools all he wants as he knows the limit on material to remove. Anyone wanting to improve their trigger should use caution and manually polish surfaces. I'm sure apprentice 'smiths manually polish surfaces as well.

Photoman642
10-31-2012, 13:30
Next time, work barehanded so you can gauge heat buildup in the piece. Don't, 'touchdown' for more than 5 or 6 seconds at a time; and STAY AWAY FROM THE COMPONENT EDGES.


Better yet... If a guy doesn't know what the heck he's doing, just save up the $140 for a good drop in trigger. A new firing pin is $50 alone.

glockarmor
10-31-2012, 17:43
Reinstall the original connector and see if it still does it. I had the same issue at one point and traced it back to the connector.

AustinTx
10-31-2012, 20:00
I polish my internals at the range. 1,000 or so rounds seem to do the trick. ;)

That's all that needs to be done. I have very closely examined the internals, of every new Glock, that I have bought. Not a single one has needed any extra polishing. The parts that move across each other are very small points and plenty slick, right out of the box. I'm sure, that I'm in the minority, but that's been my experience with Glocks. The guns stay all OEM parts and I don't remember ever getting brass in my face, failure to extract and eject properly or jams.

New23
11-03-2012, 23:19
Reading this thread reinforces my resolve to do no modifications at all to my G23 (except the butt plug :-) It works just fine as is.

That's all that needs to be done. I have very closely examined the internals, of every new Glock, that I have bought. Not a single one has needed any extra polishing. The parts that move across each other are very small points and plenty slick, right out of the box. I'm sure, that I'm in the minority, but that's been my experience with Glocks. The guns stay all OEM parts and I don't remember ever getting brass in my face, failure to extract and eject properly or jams.

Pineapple Devil
03-04-2013, 11:24
When you dry fired the gun, continued to hold the trigger down, released for the reset, did you feel it fire again or did it just feel like the trigger was resetting?

d123gaw
03-04-2013, 12:43
everything felt fine when dry fired and reset. I was actually pretty proud of how good it felt dry firing. And then it all went south

allegro
03-04-2013, 17:51
When you dry fired the gun, continued to hold the trigger down, released for the reset, did you feel it fire again or did it just feel like the trigger was resetting?

Seems to me that it should have "double fired" even in a dry-fire attempt.

Why would this NOT be true?

Bruce M
03-04-2013, 18:34
Just a guess but maybe something reset when the slide cycled after being fired the first time but did not reset after the first dry fire?

OP Safe guess the issue has been resolved by now? Pistol is shooting well now?

allegro
03-04-2013, 20:48
Well this thread got me paranoid.

I did the polish job a year or so ago. Never had any issue other than a smoother pull.

I took mine COMPLETELY apart just for the heck of it. Before re-assembly, I took a Sharpie and colored the face of the striker. I put her back and dry-fired a few times.

I removed the slide, got a magnifying glass to check the contact point. Turns out that it is just a bit wider than the trigger bar. I assume that is sufficient as I have had no problems and it seems that more surface contact than that would really cause creep and a lack of feel for the break.

Opinions?

ca survivor
03-05-2013, 18:25
And the dremel tool strikes again..................

yep, How much $$ are the firing pins now days?

ca survivor
03-05-2013, 18:28
Reading this thread reinforces my resolve to do no modifications at all to my G23 (except the butt plug :-) It works just fine as is.


butt plug :rofl::rofl::rofl:

dkf
03-05-2013, 19:52
yep, How much $$ are the firing pins now days?

Around $41. Just bought a slightly used Glock and the tip of the firing pin was chipped or flawed from the factory so I replaced it. Better safe than sorry.


I did the $.25 trigger job on all my Glocks. Just used some 1500grit emery paper, some flitz and rag. Just don't round the edges.

d123gaw
03-06-2013, 01:15
Bruce the gun does fine now if I could find some dang ammo to feed it.
Like I said at first, I know I screwed up when I did it. I'm a believer in experience and failure being the best teachers.

1canvas
03-06-2013, 09:07
I always wondered given the metal stampings used for the trigger parts and how easy the edge can be polished away, I would think the edges would wear down by shooting.

Wil Ufgood
03-06-2013, 09:36
Why mess with "Perfection". ;)