PPU headstamp Hard to deprime. [Archive] - Glock Talk

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Fwdftw
11-09-2012, 10:44
So i shot with a friend of mine the other day brass was mixed like always lol. From what ive gathered its Priv Partizen. SO the problem im having is it deprimes but not all the way. Now ive got my sizing die set up so that my brass feeds perfectly when sized. I dont want to adjust the decapper further down and screw something up. Ive got a peice of brass stuck in the shell holder because the primer has not been fully pressed out. How do i get that ***** out... lol:wavey::wavey::wavey:

edit caliber is .223

F106 Fan
11-09-2012, 10:51
The decapping pin doesn't push the primer all the way out but you don't want to extend the pin. So how do you expect to get the primer out? Either the decapping pin does it or it doesn't get done.

I guess you could separate the brass and a) trash the PP or b) use a Universal Decapping Die on your existing press or buy a cheap single stage press strictly for odds and ends like decapping.

I would just extend the pin. It probably only takes a little bit more extension and extending the pin shouldn't upset the sizing adjustment.

When you have a piece of decapped brass in the shell holder, run the ram up all the way. Now screw the decapping pin down until it hits the inside of the case. This is the maximum for that brand of brass. I'd be willing to bet you are a LOT shorter than this.

ADD: Make sure the problem is not pushing the primer all the way out. There is also the possibility that the primer is hanging onto the decapping pin and getting pulled back into the pocket. That's why Dillon went to a spring loaded decapping pin. Their die will shoot the spent primer clear across the room should the capture bin be out of position. It's a NICE die!

Richard

Fwdftw
11-09-2012, 10:54
you dont exactly screw the decaping pin down. Im using lee dies you have to use 2 wrenches and loosen up the screw that holds the pin in place. last time i did this it did indeed mess the sizing up. Id rather just get this one peice of brass out and ill sort the rest.

Fwdftw
11-09-2012, 11:00
richard this is the only headstamp the die has a problem with. so i doubt its the pin.

F106 Fan
11-09-2012, 11:09
you dont exactly screw the decaping pin down. Im using lee dies you have to use 2 wrenches and loosen up the screw that holds the pin in place. last time i did this it did indeed mess the sizing up. Id rather just get this one peice of brass out and ill sort the rest.

I use the Lee die in 9mm and I understand what it takes to release the collet on the decapping pin.

Take a Sharpie and mark the position of the die if you think it will move. You might try tightening the die lock nut but if you hold the top of the die and turn the collet, the die really shouldn't move.

Besides, even if the die moved, readjusting it is trivial.

You can try to force the case out of the shell holder by banging on the side away from the entry opening. I think you stand a good chance of damaging something.

Can you rotate the shell holder to another station? I can't on a 550 but I can on a 650. I don't have an LCT so I have no idea. If you can, move it over, remove the die at that station (powder measure?) and try to knock out the primer with a pin punch.

Seriously, just extend the decapping pin. You got the die adjusted once, what's the problem with doing it again?

Richard

Fwdftw
11-09-2012, 11:15
are you saying just turn the die in a turn to get the primer out then re adjust?

F106 Fan
11-09-2012, 11:23
are you saying just turn the die in a turn to get the primer out then re adjust?

No... If the die is properly adjusted, it is already hitting the shell holder when the ram is fully up. You can't adjust it any further down.

I'm saying to release the decapper pin collet, push the decapper down (a little) and tighten the collet.

Another thought: Remove the collet altogether. Run the ram up. Now, remove the collet while keeping the decapping pin in the flash hole. Bang on the decapping pin with a plastic mallet until the primer falls out. Then put the die back together.

Think about how far down the decapping pin COULD go. You could adjust it until is JUST clears the inside of the case head. My guess is that this is a LOT farther down than where it is from the factory. I wouldn't be surprised to find that you are only 0.010" or 0.020" too short.

Richard

Fwdftw
11-09-2012, 12:41
i got it Richard. Thanks. I need a new bench and a dillon 650 /w case feeder. This bulk .223 is killin me.

F106 Fan
11-09-2012, 13:04
i got it Richard. Thanks. I need a new bench and a dillon 650 /w case feeder. This bulk .223 is killin me.

I'm glad it worked out!

I am doing .223 on a 650 and it's still a problem. There is something going on with the primer pocket on Federal bulk ammo (Wally World stuff). It may not be swaged but there is a noticeable depression around the pocket and a new primer can not be seated until the pocket is swaged. I think Federal is tightening up the primer pocket as though it was errantly made oversized.

Of course, 9mm can have a crimping problem as can 5.56mm.

If you use only your own brass, no problem. Swage it once and it's done. But if you pick up free-range brass, you need to decide what to do with the crimped pocket cases.

Bottom line: Think about a 1050. Yes, I know they are VERY pricey. But the time it takes to sort cases and swage the crimped pockets is still an issue.

Keep your existing press for resizing and trimming. Just set up a toolhead with the Dillon power trimmer and a sizing die. Then on the other press, use a Universal Decapping Die instead of a sizing die. That way, if you happen to tumble clean the brass after sizing, the universal die will clean out the flash hole.

If you do go for the 650, and it's a great press, get an extra toolhead for the resize and trim operation. You will be able to process over 1200 cases per hour.

Richard

Fwdftw
11-09-2012, 13:14
rofl. 1200 cases an hour i wouldnt know what to do with my self.. as of now i roll about 300 at a time. resize/deprime on the lct, tumble the lube off, then trim/chamfer/debur with a possum hollow qwik trim. i normally shoot 300 rounds per range visit .. so this is starting to suck lol. i like to shoot every other weekend at least.

F106 Fan
11-09-2012, 13:39
That resize/trim at 1200 cases per hour is EASY to achieve on a 650. You only need to pull the handle, there is nothing to do with the left hand. It literally goes as fast as you can pull.

As to loading, I can probably get 800 rounds per hour on the 650 as long as the primer tubes are already loaded.

I like the 1050 for the swaging station but, if crimped primers are not a problem, the 650 will work just as well.

If you run into a crimped pocket and the primer only partially seats, the 650 does not hang up. The case can be removed at the decap station or after it is rotated to the powder station. Either way... I find it easiest to remove it at the decap station. Some folks suggest having a stash of primed cases to replace those pulled out but I just leave the space open and keep right on cranking. So what if there is a gap in the process?

Caliber conversions are a lot easier on the 650 than on the 1050 and a lot cheaper. Not as cheap as on a 550 but that's ok.

A fully loaded 650 (without the roller handle) with the strong mounts, bullet tray, output bin bracket, dies set up for a single caliber costs right at $1000. Free shipping if you buy it from BrianEnos.com which saves about $30.

Several folks on this forum have the 650 and you won't hear a single negative comment. Everybody who owns one just raves about it. Me too!

Richard

WiskyT
11-09-2012, 16:18
You could have gotten that primer out by punching it out with a nail.

The PPU brass might use an asphalt sealer on the primer. It could basically be glued in. You should be able to see the asphalt, if there, on the spent primer and the pocket it was in.