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Shark1007
12-03-2012, 20:08
Maybe everyone knows this, but I'd be remiss if i didn't share with my Glock friends.

My security/surveillance guy gave me a great tip. I just did the install today. You take 3 inch or 3 1/2 inch coarse thread #8 drywall screws and replace all the short screws in all exterior door deadbolt recepticles, the long screw goes thru the door frame into the 2x4 used to frame out the door frame, making it extremely hard to kick the door. I used a Porter Cable impact driver, stripped nothing and did the whole house in no time, did door to gun room, deadbolt on safe room/ master closet, etc.

I also have cell phone in master closet, a Glock 35 vertically mounted on a magnet with laser and small numbers on closet door where wife is to fire if she's locked in and someone shakes the door. 1, 2 , 3 4.

Bucknasty
12-03-2012, 20:16
Have you ever kicked a door in? Your longer drywall screws will provide less than zero protection. Chances are, the heads will snap off almost instantly.


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Batesmotel
12-03-2012, 20:17
Replace all the strike plates on your exterior doors wit Kick Plates. Larger and lag into the studs. Same idea as above just taken a little farther.

Next step is to reinforce the lock area of the door with a metal wrap. (don't know the proper name. Available at Home depot) Installs right under the deadbolt and lockset. Keeps the door from cracking around the lock if the frame holds.

Still no comparison to a security door and frame.

HollowHead
12-03-2012, 20:25
Maybe everyone knows this, but I'd be remiss if i didn't share with my Glock friends.

My security/surveillance guy gave me a great tip. I just did the install today. You take 3 inch or 3 1/2 inch coarse thread #8 drywall screws and replace all the short screws in all exterior door deadbolt recepticles, the long screw goes thru the door frame into the 2x4 used to frame out the door frame, making it extremely hard to kick the door. I used a Porter Cable impact driver, stripped nothing and did the whole house in no time, did door to gun room, deadbolt on safe room/ master closet, etc.


Be very, very careful with this. If the shims used for framing the door aren't directly behind the recepticles, you'll suck the frame against the studs and the door will not seal or close correctly and the locks may bind. I did this once with the hinges and the door wouldn't close after that. HH

19crew
12-03-2012, 20:27
Drywall screws... security... negative

Drywall screws are very weak, especially the newer thin shank ones.

ray9898
12-03-2012, 20:30
I have probably seen over a hundred doors kicked in. The only difference you will find is instead of the strike plate breaking lose the entire frame will give or the hinges.

certifiedfunds
12-03-2012, 20:32
Paging PBCounty! Paging PBCounty!

Shark1007
12-03-2012, 20:36
I majored in door kicking in my Police days. My partner was the designated kicker till he kicked a hollow door, the pieces bent in, trapped his foot off the floor and a smallish dog gnawed his foot and ankle very methodically till we all busted the door around him.

I don't profess to be an expert, it just seemed an improvement to me and made sense. Every door closes fine, everything fits nicely. I also did those stainless rods that drop into hole in travertine.

Most of our stuff locally is daytime dash in dash out theft. I have a fake jewelry box bolted to the top of wife's costume jewelry box. (one of those lockable fireproof boxes) If the thief tears it off, carries it home and pries it open, he will find pennies, nails and a note that says "f.u. get a job in spanish and english.

robin303
12-03-2012, 20:42
Home security

HOW TO INSTALL A HOME SECURITY SYSTEM IN THE SOUTH:

1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's
work boots, used, size 14-16.

2. Place them on your front porch, along with a copy
of Guns & Ammo Magazine.

3. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and
magazine.

4. Leave a note on your door that reads:

Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim:

I went for more shotgun shells and to pick my check up
from the slaughterhouse. Back in an hour. Don't mess
with the pit bulls-- don't know what got into them,
but they attacked the mailman this morning and messed
him up real bad. I don't think Killer took part in it
but it was hard to tell from all the blood.

Anyway, I locked all four of 'em in the house. Better
wait out here on the porch.

"Cooter"

certifiedfunds
12-03-2012, 20:44
I have 2 houses built side by side that are exact replicas down to the plumbing fixtures, except one is fake. A thief will never guess which one is real and will move on to a softer target.

TBO
12-03-2012, 20:45
A Cop sleeps at my house.

certifiedfunds
12-03-2012, 20:46
A Cop sleeps at my house.

Don't talk to him

TBO
12-03-2012, 20:49
I really try not to, as I get odd looks from the wife when I do.

HollowHead
12-03-2012, 20:55
A Cop sleeps at my house.

I'd pay to be there the day you come home early. HH

BEER
12-03-2012, 20:56
you want to secure an interior door? skip the screws, screws aint gonna stop squat.

throw a "new york deadbolt" under the knob, or better yet do what i've done and add a nighttime deadbolt to the top and bottom of the door on the knob side at the same heights as the opposing hinges.

a "new york deadbolt" is basically a stick or bar that jams up under the knob and locks into a hole or slot in the floor about 2 feet away from the door.

basically you want to make a thief have to kick in the entire frame instead of just a single plunger. hopefully it'll give your lady enough time to set the phone down and erase the door and the assaulting badguy with the shotgun you've so thoughtfully provided and trained her with.

Shark1007
12-03-2012, 20:56
An ex cop sleeps at mine, I guess you're never an "ex" I do the legal advisor thing for local pd and get some priority on calls, but just want to slow anybody down till the troops arrive.

If I'm home, I feel safe. It's the daytime burglaries that are picking up and the season is upon us.

Detectorist
12-03-2012, 21:11
I can open most residential front doors in about 10 seconds without all the noise. I use finesse..

686Owner
12-03-2012, 22:16
A Cop sleeps at my house.

What good is a sleeping cop?

TBO
12-03-2012, 22:23
He doesn't violate your rights.

Sent from the toe of my jack boot using Tapatalk 2

Cubdriver
12-03-2012, 22:28
Shhh - don't wake him up!

Detectorist
12-04-2012, 01:34
Let sleeping cops lie...

TK-421
12-04-2012, 01:47
I can open most residential front doors in about 10 seconds without all the noise. I use finesse..

Like the scene in Fast Five where they stick the bomb in the sewage pipe, and the guy is complaining to the other about how he uses too much explosive? :rofl:

Peace Warrior
12-04-2012, 03:14
Home security

HOW TO INSTALL A HOME SECURITY SYSTEM IN THE SOUTH:

1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's
work boots, used, size 14-16.

2. Place them on your front porch, along with a copy
of Guns & Ammo Magazine.

3. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and
magazine.

4. Leave a note on your door that reads:

Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim:

I went for more shotgun shells and to pick my check up
from the slaughterhouse. Back in an hour. Don't mess
with the pit bulls-- don't know what got into them,
but they attacked the mailman this morning and messed
him up real bad. I don't think Killer took part in it
but it was hard to tell from all the blood.

Anyway, I locked all four of 'em in the house. Better
wait out here on the porch.

"Cooter"
:rofl: :supergrin:

Gallium
12-04-2012, 03:48
What good is a sleeping cop?

It's like a bump in the road. :tbo:


http://www3.lgm.gov.my/irpec/images/products/Sleep/sleeping-policeman-prod-400.jpg

Toyman
12-04-2012, 04:48
Have you ever kicked a door in? Your longer drywall screws will provide less than zero protection. Chances are, the heads will snap off almost instantly.

Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire (http://www.outdoorhub.com/mobile/)

This. I use sheet rock screws for a lot of creative things, but I won't use them for doors. I've snapped off too many of them, and if you do snap one off, they're really hard to remove/drill out.

I have used longer screws to fix a door that had stripped screw holes, but you have to be really careful to not tighten it down too much.

southernshooter
12-04-2012, 04:51
I bought a metal security door for my carport door and back deck door for $42.00 each from a local discount building materials company. Has long security screws with no heads on them (comes with a special wrench to turn them) Nothing is fool proof but having to get through those two locks, then two locks on the main door might send a crook on to an easier target. Also have a safe if they do get in when I am not at home. Not worried about it if I am at home.

Psychman
12-04-2012, 05:03
Ok so the home security tip is basically a fail then? :whistling:

Peace Warrior
12-04-2012, 05:08
Shhh - don't wake him up!
That's what she said.

Nestor
12-04-2012, 05:31
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Admon/Hazzard.jpg

Shark1007
12-04-2012, 07:00
Would stainless screws be better? These seemed to do the trick and all I need is to slow the bad guys till the troops arrive.

I do the legal advisor thing for the local PD gratis and would probably get some priority on an alarm call. My main entry doors are doubles, solid wood, and I added Ace Hardware stainless "L" rods that mount to the door and slide down in a hole in the travertine. We are secure as best as possible, just looking for an edge. They have hit several houses on the lake but not mine. Maybe the word is out.

We have a Bahamian Potcake, a Bichon and a Mini Schnauzer, so dog defense is minimal except for yapping. The Potcake was a rescue from the dump at Treasure Cay and if the bad guy is carrying rotten food, he's toast.

Dennis in MA
12-04-2012, 07:15
He doesn't violate your rights.

Sent from the toe of my jack boot using Tapatalk 2

:rofl:

http://www.armorconcepts.com/Our-Solutions/Door-Jamb-Armor

Basically turns your entire door into a single unit attacked to studs. Now you're kicking in hte stud wall. Good luck with that. ;)

Also - instead of a screen door, use this. It'll slow em down even more.

http://www.larsondoors.com/storm_doors/products_listing_onepage/category/security_storm_doors/

The Larson won't STOP them, but it will make it a PITA to get though. THEN they hit your steel-reinforced door. At some point, it's just easier to go elsewhere.

smokeross
12-04-2012, 08:27
A Cop sleeps at my house.
I'm wide awake at my house.

686Owner
12-04-2012, 08:38
:rofl:

http://www.armorconcepts.com/Our-Solutions/Door-Jamb-Armor

Basically turns your entire door into a single unit attacked to studs. Now you're kicking in hte stud wall. Good luck with that. ;)

Also - instead of a screen door, use this. It'll slow em down even more.

http://www.larsondoors.com/storm_doors/products_listing_onepage/category/security_storm_doors/

The Larson won't STOP them, but it will make it a PITA to get though. THEN they hit your steel-reinforced door. At some point, it's just easier to go elsewhere.

Like the window about 6 feet away?

Dennis in MA
12-04-2012, 09:53
Maybe. That might be protected, too. Sucks is that, at my house, almost all of it is visible from the road. You "survivalists" who try and hide your houses just make them more open for thieves.

But good luck trying. Your normal smash'n'grabber and your average thief won't be getting in OR won't bother messing with my house.

YMMV.

TK-421
12-04-2012, 13:38
How much would it cost to replace your door and wooden frame with a steel door and steel frame? I figure that would be better than trying to beef up wood.

Left-Right
12-04-2012, 14:09
Move to a better neighborhood.

dac1204
12-04-2012, 15:17
I break into houses for a living. Why kick in a door or break glass and cause all the noise? I just drill out the deadbolt screws with a new 1/4" drill bit and the take a pair of channel locks and turn your door knob till the lock breaks and I am in. Takes about 20 secs to complete both and is virtually noise free.

Better locks put a piece of steel around the outside of the key opening and this slows down drilling the lock because you have to pry it out first.

The first priority for doors is buying well made locks. Sliding doors are even easier to get into. For the older doors on the outside if you look down at the bottom where the track is, there is a "L" bracket with two screws in it. Remove the screw that is in the track and the stationary side will move and allow entry. If you do not have that on you door for some reason you can take a pry bar and put it at the bottom under the lock side and push down on it with your foot while rocking the door back. This will release the lock and open the door.

The newer vinyl sliding doors are almost impossible to open because the stationary side is like welded in place.

di11igaf
12-04-2012, 15:18
If the screws hold(doubtful with a decent kick), the deadbolt will pretty easily just rip through the wood of the jamb(in front of deadbolt). Basically either the screws will break, or the bolt while sitting in the strike will just annihilate the wood around it(unless as stated before its some type of security door.)
This got me thinking about a scrapyard we cash in our scrap copper to. They have have a sign on the front window that reads
'Security system of this property is an 80 year old man with double barrel shotgun three nights a week.
You guess the nights.'
Cracks me up every time I see it.

EdTracker
12-04-2012, 16:07
The upgrade to #8 drywall screws are #10 decking screws. The decking screws are made of better material and thicker.

That being said, Never trust one layer of protection.

Big dogs with big noses have a certain "je ne sais quoi" about them...

gigab1te
12-04-2012, 16:14
They have have a sign on the front window that reads
'Security system of this property is an 80 year old man with double barrel shotgun three nights a week.
You guess the nights.'
Cracks me up every time I see it.

Within the last month or two, one of my neighbors (a retired Army officer) put a little sign by his doorbell that reads something like: Welcome to my house. The door is locked for your protection, not mine.

Berto
12-04-2012, 16:22
Anyone could kick my door in pretty easily, but well before that they will see Parker and Priscilla in the window because you can't ignore them barking 4ft away, with just the door between you and them. They aren't small dogs, the Rottweiler (Pris) is 110lbs and the APBT (Parker) is about 85lbs- he's on a diet.

Agonizer
12-04-2012, 16:28
Don't talk to him

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

fjrdc
12-04-2012, 16:38
construction screws torx or squaredrive. Steel door & frame that swings out , try kicking that in....

Ohio Copper
12-04-2012, 16:45
The first time I ever kicked a door in I thought for sure I wouldn't be able to get it on the first try.

Boy, was I wrong. Kicked it next to the dead bolt and door knob with all of my strength and it came right down.


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire (http://www.outdoorhub.com/mobile/)

TBO
12-04-2012, 16:47
I bet the next time you said you really had to use the bathroom they listened!

:tbo:

Bruce M
12-04-2012, 17:15
I have 2 houses built side by side that are exact replicas down to the plumbing fixtures, except one is fake. A thief will never guess which one is real and will move on to a softer target.:rofl::rofl:

Would stainless screws be better? These seemed to do the trick and all I need is to slow the bad guys till the troops arrive.

I do the legal advisor thing for the local PD gratis and would probably get some priority on an alarm call. My main entry doors are doubles, solid wood, and I added Ace Hardware stainless "L" rods that mount to the door and slide down in a hole in the travertine. ....


Perhaps one of your local departments has someone who has been to a crime prevention school http://www.floridacrimeprevention.org/ who could offer a (usually free) crime prevention survey. My guess is that some stronger screws would be a good start. Someone who is good with doors and locks can often harden a door relatively inexpensively. As I think you may have been suggesting you don't necessarily have to make a vault door but just harden things enough so the first couple of kicks don't defeat the door or the lock. Often that is enough to convince the burglars to try another target.

A significant number of daytime burlgars are not especially high up on the criminal skills hierarchy. If one has high value art work, stacks of cash, or the kind of jewelry that when worn makes it into the society page of the local paper, then one may be attracting a completely different level of burglar. That type burglar may have skills slightly above "kicking the front door."

JAS104
12-04-2012, 17:21
Home security

HOW TO INSTALL A HOME SECURITY SYSTEM IN THE SOUTH:

1. Go to a second-hand store and buy a pair of men's
work boots, used, size 14-16.

2. Place them on your front porch, along with a copy
of Guns & Ammo Magazine.

3. Put a few giant dog dishes next to the boots and
magazine.

4. Leave a note on your door that reads:

Hey Bubba, Big Jim, Duke and Slim:

I went for more shotgun shells and to pick my check up
from the slaughterhouse. Back in an hour. Don't mess
with the pit bulls-- don't know what got into them,
but they attacked the mailman this morning and messed
him up real bad. I don't think Killer took part in it
but it was hard to tell from all the blood.

Anyway, I locked all four of 'em in the house. Better
wait out here on the porch.

"Cooter"

EPIC RESPONSE. lol.
I live in an apartment for the time being. Old old building with brick walls and a "project housing style" (as a buddy pointed out) door with not one but 2 deadbolts and I swear its made of a 1/2 inch steel frame. So I wont be firing buckshot at it.

Ohio Copper
12-04-2012, 17:54
I bet the next time you said you really had to use the bathroom they listened!

:tbo:


You'd think the rich section of town had nicer bathrooms....


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire (http://www.outdoorhub.com/mobile/)

xArcher
12-04-2012, 18:06
Sliding doors are even easier to get into. For the older doors on the outside if you look down at the bottom where the track is, there is a "L" bracket with two screws in it. Remove the screw that is in the track and the stationary side will move and allow entry.

Had a neighbor that locked her self out. Husband was out of town. Did the above, it upset her so much she spent the weekend in a hotel. She thought is was more secure. :-(

Some windows are even easier but then you've got to climb up and over the window sill.

Poncho1969
12-04-2012, 18:20
Nice!!

podwich
12-04-2012, 18:34
It's like a bump in the road. :tbo:


http://www3.lgm.gov.my/irpec/images/products/Sleep/sleeping-policeman-prod-400.jpg

Where do the jackboots fit?

janice6
12-04-2012, 18:55
Lots of good ideas on the front entry door.

I have glass patio doors. How many of you do?







(I didn't say anything about alarms)

eyesnorth
12-04-2012, 19:53
The wife is having a hot flash...doors and windows are open. I would LOVE for someone to break in right now.

Peace Warrior
12-04-2012, 20:43
Would stainless screws be better? These seemed to do the trick and all I need is to slow the bad guys till the troops arrive.

I do the legal advisor thing for the local PD gratis and would probably get some priority on an alarm call. My main entry doors are doubles, solid wood, and I added Ace Hardware stainless "L" rods that mount to the door and slide down in a hole in the travertine. We are secure as best as possible, just looking for an edge. They have hit several houses on the lake but not mine. Maybe the word is out.

We have a Bahamian Potcake, a Bichon and a Mini Schnauzer, so dog defense is minimal except for yapping. The Potcake was a rescue from the dump at Treasure Cay and if the bad guy is carrying rotten food, he's toast.
Yapping is great if you're home. I think the best dogs bark (i.e., yap) when they can only hear, and not see a threat.

The old adage is on this wise, "Dear burglar/robber, My doors and windows are not locked for me or my family's protection, they are locked for yours."


3" stainless steel screws (http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/1430-SD6?ICID=FP1M2H1)(say # 12 or so) will give you the entire door's strength, or the entire door's AND frame's strength for several years down the road. (Be sure the hinges are decent quality.) I highly recommend pilots holes, 1/32 smaller than recommended for the screw. Use some "lube" (e.g., carpenter's wood glue mixed with a 1 to 5, clean water to glue ratio) on the screw to prevent both splitting near the ends of the jamb as well as stripping out the screw heads when installing.

certifiedfunds
12-04-2012, 20:48
Yapping is great if you're home. I think the best dogs bark (i.e., yap) when they can only hear, and not see a threat.

The old adage is on this wise, "Dear burglar/robber, My doors and windows are not locked for me or my family's protection, they are locked for yours."


3" stainless steel screws (http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/1430-SD6?ICID=FP1M2H1)(say # 12 or so) will give you the entire door's strength, or the entire door's AND frame's strength for several years down the road. (Be sure the hinges are decent quality.) I highly recommend pilots holes, 1/32 smaller than recommended for the screw. Use some "lube" (e.g., carpenter's wood glue mixed with a 1 to 5, clean water to glue ratio) on the screw to prevent both splitting near the ends of the jamb as well as stripping out the screw heads when installing.

rubbing the screw with a bar of soap works well as screw lube too.

did I just say that?

Peace Warrior
12-05-2012, 06:30
rubbing the screw with a bar of soap works well as screw lube too.

did I just say that?
Using soap like that is an old carpenter wives' tale. Soap is an eternal surfactant. The best screw lube is basic carpenter's wood glue mixed with a bit of clean water.

Disclaimer: If you use the wood glue/water mixture, the screws themselves will probably never come out by way of unscrewing.

di11igaf
12-05-2012, 07:06
Using soap like that is an old carpenter wives' tale. Soap is an eternal surfactant. The best screw lube is basic carpenter's wood glue mixed with a bit of clean water.

Disclaimer: If you use the wood glue/water mixture, the screws themselves will probably never come out by way of unscrewing.

Has worked well for electricians pulling wire for years. If not 'soap' made specifically for pulling wire(not actually soap, same consistency), then literally dish soap. I've seen both used, dish soap in a pinch. Both are excellent lubes until they start to dry, then become tacky.
I personally wouldn't use dish soap, we buy wire lube by the 5 gallon bucket, but its still used

Dennis in MA
12-05-2012, 07:11
Lots of good ideas on the front entry door.

I have glass patio doors. How many of you do?







(I didn't say anything about alarms)

Dow (I think) makes a good film. But with glass doors, you need to seal the edge with caulking (Dow 7-something or 9-something caulk) because sliders are safety glass - they shatter. You need something to hold it to the frame.

Can they get through? Yes.

Will it be fast? No. Loud? Probably. Worth it? Probably not.

happyguy
12-05-2012, 08:02
Maybe everyone knows this, but I'd be remiss if i didn't share with my Glock friends.

My security/surveillance guy gave me a great tip. I just did the install today. You take 3 inch or 3 1/2 inch coarse thread #8 drywall screws and replace all the short screws in all exterior door deadbolt recepticles, the long screw goes thru the door frame into the 2x4 used to frame out the door frame, making it extremely hard to kick the door. I used a Porter Cable impact driver, stripped nothing and did the whole house in no time, did door to gun room, deadbolt on safe room/ master closet, etc.

I also have cell phone in master closet, a Glock 35 vertically mounted on a magnet with laser and small numbers on closet door where wife is to fire if she's locked in and someone shakes the door. 1, 2 , 3 4.

We had to evacuate Clark AB in the Philippines when mount Pinatubo erupted. Of course we locked all the doors as we left (actually most had been locked in preparation since we had plenty of warning).

These were nice sturdy steel doors in steel door frames. I think most military guys have seen them. Well, when we went back to begin recovery operations no one had the keys.:dunno:

At 5'9" 170 lbs I found that it took an average of 3 kicks to get in a door, sometimes 2, and sometimes 4.

It's good to have as much security as possible to slow an intruder down, but don't let it make you over confident and always be armed.

Stay safe.

Regards,
Comrade Happyguy :)

certifiedfunds
12-05-2012, 08:22
Using soap like that is an old carpenter wives' tale. Soap is an eternal surfactant. The best screw lube is basic carpenter's wood glue mixed with a bit of clean water.

Disclaimer: If you use the wood glue/water mixture, the screws themselves will probably never come out by way of unscrewing.

Peace - the bar of soap works well. I use it all the time. A candle works well too. No mess.

pipedreams
12-05-2012, 08:44
3" stainless steel screws (http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/1430-SD6?ICID=FP1M2H1)(say # 12 or so) will give you the entire door's strength, or the entire door's AND frame's strength for several years down the road. (Be sure the hinges are decent quality.) I highly recommend pilots holes, 1/32 smaller than recommended for the screw. Use some "lube" (e.g., carpenter's wood glue mixed with a 1 to 5, clean water to glue ratio) on the screw to prevent both splitting near the ends of the jamb as well as stripping out the screw heads when installing.

Good advice, I would just add use square or star drive instead of phillips head screws.

G29Reload
12-05-2012, 08:50
Has worked well for electricians pulling wire for years. If not 'soap' made specifically for pulling wire(not actually soap, same consistency), then literally dish soap. I've seen both used, dish soap in a pinch. Both are excellent lubes until they start to dry, then become tacky.
I personally wouldn't use dish soap, we buy wire lube by the 5 gallon bucket, but its still used

I was trying to pull 2 runs of 14-2rx thru a 1/2 inch hole this past weekend. Kept getting stuck and sticky electrical tape binding the bitter end to the fish tape didnt help.

Covered the lead in a quick wrap of scotch tape, then lubed it with a paper towel soaked in olive oil. Worked like a charm.

Peace Warrior
12-05-2012, 08:53
Has worked well for electricians pulling wire for years. If not 'soap' made specifically for pulling wire(not actually soap, same consistency), then literally dish soap. I've seen both used, dish soap in a pinch. Both are excellent lubes until they start to dry, then become tacky.
I personally wouldn't use dish soap, we buy wire lube by the 5 gallon bucket, but its still used
hey, we are talking about screws in life and death matters here. Not some "sparky's" cow *** for pulling wire. :upeyes:



































































:tongueout: :supergrin:

certifiedfunds
12-05-2012, 08:55
I was trying to pull 2 runs of 14-2rx thru a 1/2 inch hole this past weekend. Kept getting stuck and sticky electrical tape binding the bitter end to the fish tape didnt help.

Covered the lead in a quick wrap of scotch tape, then lubed it with a paper towel soaked in olive oil. Worked like a charm.

Plus it is healthy fats


Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire (http://www.outdoorhub.com/mobile/)

Peace Warrior
12-05-2012, 08:56
Peace - the bar of soap works well. I use it all the time. A candle works well too. No mess.
CF,

I know that which I am speaking about on this issue. Wax is eternally slippery. Bad idea. Please use the wood glue water mix. Screws go in, but they don't come out. Serious. :wavey:

ETA: Do NOT start driving a screw and then stop halfway through to take a sip of tea or water. It won't go in the rest of the way when you get back due to the heat caused by friction.

Peace Warrior
12-05-2012, 08:59
Good advice, I would just add use square or star drive instead of phillips head screws.
I stand corrected Sir. Thanks for reminding me. The torq(sp?), square heads, and star heads came on a little after my prime time in the construction industry. I was still around, but had moved up the ladder a bit.

(But hey, I'm actually old enough to know older craftsman that remember when the guy who invented the phillip's head screw and driver went to Detroit and gave them both away at first. Completely replaced the slot head drivers and screws in less than a year IIRC.)

G29Reload
12-05-2012, 09:16
Plus it is healthy fats


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Made the wires lose weight!

certifiedfunds
12-05-2012, 09:24
CF,

I know that which I am speaking about on this issue. Wax is eternally slippery. Bad idea. Please use the wood glue water mix. Screws go in, but they don't come out. Serious. :wavey:

ETA: Do NOT start driving a screw and then stop halfway through to take a sip of tea or water. It won't go in the rest of the way when you get back due to the heat caused by friction.

alright alright......

ashecht
12-05-2012, 10:59
Time to move