New to ARs. Lubricant ??s [Archive] - Glock Talk

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hsprincipal
12-22-2012, 08:35
What lube do you guys recommend for your ARs? I recently purchased a new Colt LE6920. Never owned one before and trying to educate myself. Do you run them wet? Really wet? Just need some tips.... I have on hand Hoppes oil, CLP and Lucas Home and Shop Oil (says for use on guns), and RemOil. Do I need anything else?

faawrenchbndr
12-22-2012, 08:46
Rem Oil is the only oil I have used & had a weapon fail.
I will not use it for a barn door! CLP'S is great.
I use Slip 2000 EWL on my gas AR, I use Mil-Comm TW25B on my
9mm pistol & carbines.

Here is a link to a great guide

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1606-AR15-LUBE-POINTS

svtpwnz
12-22-2012, 08:52
I use Royal Purple synthetic motor oil for all my weapons and never had an issue with any of them.

hsprincipal
12-22-2012, 09:10
Rem Oil is the only oil I have used & had a weapon fail.
I will not use it for a barn door! CLP'S is great.
I use Slip 2000 EWL on my gas AR, I use Mil-Comm TW25B on my
9mm pistol & carbines.

Here is a link to a great guide

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1606-AR15-LUBE-POINTS


Thanks for the link...

WoodenPlank
12-22-2012, 09:15
SLiP 2000 EWL on both of my ARs. Tear the bolt down, clean it well. Moderately lube the exterior of the bolt tail, especially the gas rings. Lube inside and outside of the bolt carrier, cam pin, and firing pin channel. Reassemble bolt. Lightly lube charging handle leg and inside of the charging handle channel, as well. Re-assemble everything, rack the charging handle a few times to let the lube work it's way into everything. SLIP leave a bit of a dry film lube behind as it dries, so even if it doesn't look wet, it will still keep the bolt running well.

After a few hundred rounds (if you notice the gun getting sluggish), ease the charging handle back until you can see the steel gas rings through the two witness holes in the dimple of the bolt carrier - you only need to ease back an inch or so. One to two drops of EWL through each witness hole onto the gas rings, and rack the charging handle a few time. The gas rings are one of the critical areas that need to be lubed.

crazymoose
12-22-2012, 12:42
Some lubes are better than others, but the important thing is just to use enough lube, and use it in the crucial places (which have been covered in this thread).

The notable exception to this statement is Rem Oil. Rem Oil is really bad lube. I don't know why it's sold at almost every gun store and Wal Mart in the country, but it's just terrible; very low viscosity and it evaporates in short order.

Slip2000 is great, FP10 and Break Free CLP do the job well. Heck, fully synthetic motor oil is, in my opinion, one of the best lubes for an AR, and a $6 quart will last you a long, long time. If you use synth motor oil, remember that while it is a superb lubricant, it does nothing as a cleaner and is only a mediocre preservative. You'll want a CLP or LP type oil on the external steel surfaces to prevent rust, and CLP or a dedicated cleaner for the bore, bolt extension (the star-shaped chamber that the barrel lugs lock into), caked on carbon on the bolt, etc.

svtpwnz
12-22-2012, 12:47
Some lubes are better than others, but the important thing is just to use enough lube, and use it in the crucial places (which have been covered in this thread).

The notable exception to this statement is Rem Oil. Rem Oil is really bad lube. I don't know why it's sold at almost every gun store and Wal Mart in the country, but it's just terrible; very low viscosity and it evaporates in short order.

Slip2000 is great, FP10 and Break Free CLP do the job well. Heck, fully synthetic motor oil is, in my opinion, one of the best lubes for an AR, and a $6 quart will last you a long, long time.


I agree! If it is good enough for an internal combustion engine for 10,000+ miles, it is more than adequate for my AR's.

WoodenPlank
12-22-2012, 12:48
Some lubes are better than others, but the important thing is just to use enough lube, and use it in the crucial places (which have been covered in this thread).

The notable exception to this statement is Rem Oil. Rem Oil is really bad lube. I don't know why it's sold at almost every gun store and Wal Mart in the country, but it's just terrible; very low viscosity and it evaporates in short order.

Slip2000 is great, FP10 and Break Free CLP do the job well. Heck, fully synthetic motor oil is, in my opinion, one of the best lubes for an AR, and a $6 quart will last you a long, long time. If you use synth motor oil, remember that while it is a superb lubricant, it does nothing as a cleaner and is only a mediocre preservative. You'll want a CLP or LP type oil on the external steel surfaces to prevent rust, and CLP or a dedicated cleaner for the bore, bolt extension (the star-shaped chamber that the barrel lugs lock into), caked on carbon on the bolt, etc.

That's why I use SLIP - it helps with cleaning (when I get around to it), and it's non-toxic to boot.

mvician
12-22-2012, 13:06
FrogLube

faawrenchbndr
12-22-2012, 13:10
Still need to try Froglube........great suggestion Mike!

MarkCO
12-22-2012, 13:20
If you want a cheap effective CLP, mix Royal Purple synthetic motor oil (I like the straight 30) with Royal Purple synthetic ATF. The ATF has better cleaning and anti-corrosion properties.

Bolt cam and rails of bolt carrier get Slide Glide while the bolt itself and the moving trigger parts get the RP mixture. Synthetic grease is okay, but Slide-Glide is the best for rails and carriers.

Froglube is expensive and okay, but it is certainly over-hyped.

mvician
12-22-2012, 13:21
Still need to try Froglube........great suggestion Mike!

:cool: non toxic and smells great!

bmoore
12-22-2012, 13:25
Slip 2000 for non toxic. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 with about half ATF mixed in.

hsprincipal
12-22-2012, 15:08
Thanks for all the good insight...

collim1
12-22-2012, 18:39
I use CLP on my AR. Never had a single jam with my RRA. CLP is the only lube I have ever used on it.

Its probably not the best at cleaning, lubing, or preserving, but its cheap and more than adequate in my experience.

When my bottle runs out I'll likely try Hoppes Elite or MPro7 (same thing, different label). I have heard good stuff about it.

lawman800
12-23-2012, 03:09
I never had a problem with RemOil. Just bought two cans today. I sprayed my AR until dripping wet and ran it a few times in horrible conditions with wind and dust and sand and heat and never had a failure of any kind with it. It's my field lube.

I also use Hoppe's gun oil if I am cleaning my guns at home.

Haven't gotten to using motor oil yet but I am not opposed to it if I don't have gun oil around and it's what's available.

Matthew Courtney
12-23-2012, 04:05
Astroglide because.... Oops, wait. Sorry, wrong thread!

MarkCO
12-23-2012, 07:51
Break Free CLP is not bad at all. Basically what they gave the military for years.

Rem Oil (like WD40)...maybe okay for a sqeaky hinge, fishing reels, door locks...would not run an AR with it though.

faawrenchbndr
12-23-2012, 08:12
I never had a problem with RemOil. Just bought two cans today. I sprayed my AR until dripping wet and ran it a few times in horrible conditions with wind and dust and sand and heat and never had a failure of any kind with it. It's my field lube.

I also use Hoppe's gun oil if I am cleaning my guns at home.

Haven't gotten to using motor oil yet but I am not opposed to it if I don't have gun oil around and it's what's available.

Hose it down with Rem Oil then run around 500 rounds through it,
or,......try to. It will work for a few rounds fired, however, it will
evaporate and it will burn off very quickly.

MajorD
12-23-2012, 09:01
What lube you use is not that important . The key is to run the gun fairly wet. A gi field manual will tell you the critical lube points. If those are wet you should have no problems

Waboom!!
12-23-2012, 09:23
synthetic 10W30 motor oil

faawrenchbndr
12-23-2012, 09:34
An AR properly lubed, with the proper lube, should not have to be wet.

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1606-AR15-LUBE-POINTS

kirgi08
12-23-2012, 09:59
CLP for me.'08.

Gunnut 45/454
12-23-2012, 10:15
hsprincipal
Save your money buy a quart of 5/10W30 and be done with it! Run it wet not dripping but wet!. That's all I've ever used. It will last a very long time.:supergrin:

lawman800
12-23-2012, 10:51
Hose it down with Rem Oil then run around 500 rounds through it,
or,......try to. It will work for a few rounds fired, however, it will
evaporate and it will burn off very quickly.

Done that a few times, as I said.

Hosed it with RemOil. Wet to the point of oil coming out every seam and orifice as I fired the gun, not dripping down to the ground, but you see the lines of oil coming out everywhere.

Ran it at all the local outdoor dusty windy sandy ranges for minimum of 500 rounds, sometimes a thousand rounds, as well as a beta mag or two for kicks.

No problems whatsoever.

But like I said, that's for field.

When I go home and clean it, I use Hoppe's lubricant.

WinterWizard
12-23-2012, 11:55
An AR properly lubed, with the proper lube, should not have to be wet.

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1606-AR15-LUBE-POINTS

This. There is a myth that an AR has to be dripping wet everywhere inside the receiver. That is fine if you want to spend twice as long cleaning. But the AR only needs liberal lube in a few areas. The rest can stay dry. I use grease because it stays. Oil is gone due to gravity, drying out or burning off very quickly. I use high-temp bearing grease. Hasn't been an issue, even in 15 degree weather.

bullittmcqueen
12-23-2012, 20:02
Froglube, and once you try it you'll never go back. I've used everything from Slip to Mobil 1 to clp, and they all work. Froglube will minimize the amount of work you have going forward keeping the rifle clean.

Here's a video I did on cleaning and lubing with Froglube.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KbyPZOQaX9k

ranger1968
12-23-2012, 20:05
Mobil 1; works like a charm, and a quart lasts forever.

MarkCO
12-23-2012, 21:35
Froglube, and once you try it you'll never go back.

I tried it, went back to Royal Purple 30 wt/ATF mix...much better, cheaper too.

steve1911
12-23-2012, 21:59
Slip 2000 EWL.




1911club#410

WarEagle32
12-23-2012, 22:42
Lps 2

Gunnut 45/454
12-24-2012, 10:54
WinterWizard
Yea lube that way if I was in the Middle east sand box - I'm not so it doesn't apply!:supergrin:

USMCgs3
12-24-2012, 11:25
Get an ak and dont worry about it, :p
Honestly though when we trained we ran clean and well lubed, never dripping wet... idk where that notion came from, but not from individuals that use their weapon for the way it was intended.

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bmoore
12-24-2012, 13:30
I tried it, went back to Royal Purple 30 wt/ATF mix...much better, cheaper too.

I did the same except with Mobil 1. I do frog lube on the outside of some of my guns but it doesn't really do anything for me on the AR platform. Seems a lot easier to just squirt your Slip 2000 or Mobil 1 where you need it, shoot and then clean your rifle. Or don't clean your rifle if you don't want to, put more lube on it.

txleapd
12-24-2012, 13:47
Mobil 1; works like a charm, and a quart lasts forever.

I've been using Mobil 1 (10W30) for 20 years, and only on my second quart.

No need to fix something that ain't broke....

conpro
12-24-2012, 13:49
slip 2000 for non toxic. I use mobil 1 10w-30 with about half atf mixed in.


hey bmoore is back trolling again.

lawman800
12-24-2012, 17:49
How do you guys get motor oil where you want? Do you put it in a little squirt bottle or something? I just can't figure on using that big ole quart container.

Evosil98
12-24-2012, 18:05
Breakfree clp and slip ewl has worked great for me.

WoodenPlank
12-24-2012, 18:16
How do you guys get motor oil where you want? Do you put it in a little squirt bottle or something? I just can't figure on using that big ole quart container.

I'm sure they use small bottles of some kind.

Here's something to consider - wet lube on a BCG tends to get aerosolized or boiled off in some way. Motor oil is toxic to humans. So, as that oil cooks off, you're breathing in and being exposed to a toxic substance.

I'll stick to non-toxic lube, thanks.

bmoore
12-24-2012, 18:24
How do you guys get motor oil where you want? Do you put it in a little squirt bottle or something? I just can't figure on using that big ole quart container.

Here you go. EDIT- I draw it out of the Mobil 1 quart with a 3 or 5cc syringe.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25040&catid=530


Woodenplank does have a valid point.

WoodenPlank
12-24-2012, 19:00
Here you go

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25040&catid=530


Woodenplank does have a valid point.

Thanks for that link. I've been looking for a source for those 3cc bottles so I don't have to pay $5 each for the ones from SLIP. :supergrin:

bmoore
12-24-2012, 19:30
Thanks for that link. I've been looking for a source for those 3cc bottles so I don't have to pay $5 each for the ones from SLIP. :supergrin:

No sweat, those are awesome. The 3cc ones are great for your pistol grip, 6cc are great for a range bag or bug out bag. 15cc work great for the bench in the garage.

MarkCO
12-24-2012, 22:11
Brownells carries a 3 pak of needle oiler bottles for just a few bucks.

USED motor oil is full of bad stuff, new motoroil, not so much. Synthetic, with the long strands won't aerosol or burn off on an AR.

WoodenPlank
12-24-2012, 22:30
No sweat, those are awesome. The 3cc ones are great for your pistol grip, 6cc are great for a range bag or bug out bag. 15cc work great for the bench in the garage.

I actually ordered 4 of each. I already have a pair of 3 CC bottles that live in the grips of both of my rifles. I'm curious if something bigger might fit. Even if it doesn't, I'm sure I will find uses for them.

lawman800
12-25-2012, 02:05
Brownells carries a 3 pak of needle oiler bottles for just a few bucks.

USED motor oil is full of bad stuff, new motoroil, not so much. Synthetic, with the long strands won't aerosol or burn off on an AR.

How about cooking oil or EVOO? You know that stuff is healthy for you.

WinterWizard
12-25-2012, 04:47
WinterWizard
Yea lube that way if I was in the Middle east sand box - I'm not so it doesn't apply!:supergrin:

Actually, works in any climate/conditions except for severely cold weather (below 0 degrees). Excess lube attracts dirt/sand. That is what you would not want in a dry/sandy environment.

Walt_NC
12-25-2012, 11:47
How do you guys get motor oil where you want? Do you put it in a little squirt bottle or something? I just can't figure on using that big ole quart container.

The guys I know that use motor oil will just shake the bottle a few times, then run a q-tip around the inside of the cap. Then use the q-tip to lightly lube the contact points.

I dislike the the motor oil thing. It smokes like crazy when the gun heats up, seems to attract dirt and carbon and gum up quickly (especially when shooting suppressed), is a ***** to clean and smells awful.

I stick with CLP or gun butter.

cangler
12-25-2012, 11:52
Nobody uses just ballistol ??? You can't get more simple than that.

The Fist Of Goodness
12-25-2012, 12:06
The guys I know that use motor oil will just shake the bottle a few times, then run a q-tip around the inside of the cap. Then use the q-tip to lightly lube the contact points.

I dislike the the motor oil thing. It smokes like crazy when the gun heats up, seems to attract dirt and carbon and gum up quickly (especially when shooting suppressed), is a ***** to clean and smells awful.

I stick with CLP or gun butter.

When I went through the instructor course at FLETC for our M&P15s, the S&W armorer instructors raved about mobil one synthetic. They said if we were going to be putting alot of rounds out ( at a tactical long gun course, for instance) to dunk the bolt carrier group into a container of M1, shake off the excess, insert, and enjoy.

They has some with them, and we used it to lube (using a normal amount- not the dunking method) the rifles before training with them. I did notice a strong odor and smoke as the oil burned away. We dis not have any malfunctions all week (we only cleaned them on the last day) and probably put 2500-3000 rds out the whole week.

One if the FLETC instructors had a sweet LWRC PDW that he used for demonstration purposes. He had recently gone through a course put on by SEALs where he did use the "dunk" method, and had no issues.

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Walt_NC
12-25-2012, 12:15
They has some with them, and we used it to lube (using a normal amount- not the dunking method) the rifles before training with them. I did notice a strong odor and smoke as the oil burned away. We dis not have any malfunctions all week (we only cleaned them on the last day) and probably put 2500-3000 rds out the whole week.

One if the FLETC instructors had a sweet LWRC PDW that he used for demonstration purposes. He had recently gone through a course put on by SEALs where he did use the "dunk" method, and had no issues.

Interesting. If it works for you, stick with it!

txleapd
12-25-2012, 13:04
How do you guys get motor oil where you want? Do you put it in a little squirt bottle or something? I just can't figure on using that big ole quart container.

Long cotton tip applicators is one method.

txleapd
12-25-2012, 13:10
I dislike the the motor oil thing. It smokes like crazy when the gun heats up, seems to attract dirt and carbon and gum up quickly (especially when shooting suppressed), is a ***** to clean and smells awful.

It's amazing that the same stuff has worked just fine to lubricate the internal combustion engine (something which generates much more heat for much longer periods of time than a firearm will ever operate) for well over 100 years....

WoodenPlank
12-25-2012, 13:20
It's amazing that the same stuff has worked just fine to lubricate the internal combustion engine (something which generates much more heat for much longer periods of time than a firearm will ever operate) for well over 100 years....

Engines are also much more of a closed system than an AR-pattern rifle.

txleapd
12-25-2012, 18:30
Engines are also much more of a closed system than an AR-pattern rifle.

You're right... Silly me. Engine oil runs through a closed system, which has absolutely no debris or foreign particles present. That's why we don't have to get oil changes every 3,000 miles or so.

I also forgot that with all of these great advancements in gun lubricating technology, we no longer have to clean our firearms. That's for suckers who won't spend money on overpriced products that don't really do any better than common motor oil.

If people want to spend their money, that's fine. I'd appreciate not being lectured on a subject which I have 2 decades of personal experience in carrying a gun professionally (in a wide range of environments too, I might add).

lawman800
12-25-2012, 19:15
What kind of smell? The burning oil smell you get when you blow an engine?

The Fist Of Goodness
12-25-2012, 21:22
What kind of smell? The burning oil smell you get when you blow an engine?

Its more like the excess (clean) oil that leaks onto an engine block when the jiffy lube does an oil change. I could see a faint amount of smoke (more like a vapor) off of the rifle.

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vettely
12-25-2012, 22:29
Any of the synthetic based lubes (including mobile1, etc) should work just fine.

Gbannan
12-26-2012, 04:59
Nobody uses just ballistol ??? You can't get more simple than that.

I do but i dont shoot long enough or in harsh enough conditions for it to matter what i use...

Ballistol should work fine.

lawman800
12-26-2012, 09:52
So why not peanut, olive, cannola or any other cooking oil? At least it's healthy for you.

txleapd
12-26-2012, 12:24
So why not peanut, olive, cannola or any other cooking oil? At least it's healthy for you.

Animal and plant oils will work, but they break down quicker and at much lower temperatures than petroleum or synthetic products. This translates to more frequent application. Natural oils also turn rancid, which smells really bad, and has more potential to gum moving parts. It's better than nothing, but wouldn't be my first choice if I had other options.


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MarkCO
12-26-2012, 20:35
So why not peanut, olive, cannola or any other cooking oil? At least it's healthy for you.

What he said, AND surface tension, length of chains, flash point, additive packages, and their propensity to absorb water.

Most gun oils are just re-labeled bulk oils. A scant few have a unique additive package, but not many.

I've run RP synthetic (and Mobil 1) on FA belt feds and never had them smoking. Regular motoroil, maybe.

Those of you knocking motoroil becasue it "smokes" do realize that a thin film of motor oil is on the cylinder walls with flame temps in the thousands and cylinder wall temps in the 300 to 400 degree range, and it does not burn off there....:upeyes:

lawman800
12-27-2012, 05:18
Animal and plant oils will work, but they break down quicker and at much lower temperatures than petroleum or synthetic products. This translates to more frequent application. Natural oils also turn rancid, which smells really bad, and has more potential to gum moving parts. It's better than nothing, but wouldn't be my first choice if I had other options.


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What he said, AND surface tension, length of chains, flash point, additive packages, and their propensity to absorb water.

Most gun oils are just re-labeled bulk oils. A scant few have a unique additive package, but not many.

I've run RP synthetic (and Mobil 1) on FA belt feds and never had them smoking. Regular motoroil, maybe.

Those of you knocking motoroil becasue it "smokes" do realize that a thin film of motor oil is on the cylinder walls with flame temps in the thousands and cylinder wall temps in the 300 to 400 degree range, and it does not burn off there....:upeyes:

Got it... thanks for the info!

I've got a few quarts of Mobil 1 10W30 in the garage. Going to give it a twirl.

rootbrain
12-27-2012, 06:55
Astroglide because.... Oops, wait. Sorry, wrong thread!

LOL. Never had a failure with that :eek:



Rootbrain

onebigelf
12-27-2012, 07:23
Slip 2000 for non toxic. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 with about half ATF mixed in.

Just about the same. I use the Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid for anyone who doesn't know) in a 50/50 mix. I changed to the synthetic a few years ago. Prior to that I'd used just the regular Mobil 1 for about 30 years. Lots of "Super" lubes have come and gone in that time, but go to a competitive shoot and you'll find a good many people that can't afford to have a single jam running this mix. It's also cheap! A quart of the oil and a quart of the ATF will run you about $12 total and renders 1/2 gallon of lubricant! Away back when, I bought a 1/2 gallon of vinegar in a 1/2 gallon plastic jug (it was really cheap), refilled my mom's vinegar bottle (it was that long ago), poured the rest out and mixed the oil in the cleaned out jug. I'm still using that same jug to mix this in.

John

crazymoose
12-27-2012, 16:15
USED motor oil is full of bad stuff, new motoroil, not so much. Synthetic, with the long strands won't aerosol or burn off on an AR.

This. The toxic/carcinogenic compounds come from exposure to the combustion process. I don't know what the toxicity of synthetic motor oil from a heavily-fired rifle is like, but I'm guessing that it's very similar to the toxicity of just about any firearms lubricant which has been exposed to the same firing schedule, as they're both holding the same lead/carbon residue/mercury vapor particulate matter in suspension.

mgentry
12-28-2012, 10:09
Tetra is one of the best I have found - been using it for years with no issues. Really good stuff!

mayhem23
12-30-2012, 00:52
Rem Oil for summer months, and CLP for winter months.

Sensai
12-30-2012, 05:43
If I had a black gun I would use Shooters choice FP-10

faawrenchbndr
12-30-2012, 05:47
......

Those of you knocking motoroil becasue it "smokes" do realize that a thin film of motor oil is on the cylinder walls with flame temps in the thousands and cylinder wall temps in the 300 to 400 degree range, and it does not burn off there....:upeyes:

Keep in mind, am engine re supplies that oils film several times a second.
A rifle only has the oil film that was applied once. Not a valid point, IMO. :dunno:

This works well for me........

2 parts Mobil 1
1 part Synthetic part ATF
1/2 part Kroil
1/2 part Marvel Mystery Oil
1/4 part STP

Made in Austria
12-30-2012, 09:36
Motor oil is a excellent gun lube, and not more toxic (if unused) than gun lubes. It's hard to compare a car engine with the moving parts of a gun. The oil circulation in a car engine is always under pressure. Car crank shaft sleeve bearings for instance, don't even contact each other once the oil pressure is established, the crank shaft swims on the oil, thats why a four-stroke engine last so long. A two-stroke engine with its passive lubrication is done where a well maintained four-stroke is just starting to run nice.

Also, there is only a very thin oil film left in the combustion chamber after the oil scraper ring on the piston scraped it of the cylinder walls. Almost all of that microscopic oil film burns up which is normal. If the scaper rings start to wear out, you will notice higher oil consumption and in extreme cases blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. Same thing with the valve stem seals.

I think any gun oil, motor oil and/or ATF will do it in a gun. As long as you don't run it dry you will be fine with any lube. There is just not enough going on in a gun that the kind of lube you use would matter.