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Spartacus100
01-02-2013, 08:31
I purchased a Sig Scorpion 1911 yesterday, took it to the range last night and ran 150 rounds of Remington 230 gr ammo through it and 1 box of Hornady HP ammo. The gun ran flawlessly for the first 100 rounds then started to occasionally FTF. It would feed the round but would stop maybe an 1/8 of an inch from completely closing. I was able to push the slide the rest of the way closed and fire the round. The next round might feed perfectly or it might not close fully into battery. The Horandy HP were run last and more than half of them fed and fired great but the rest had the same issue. There were no issues at all with extraction.

Since it ran so well for the first 100 rounds, was it just dirty or do I need to have some work done on it? I cleaned it before going to the range and after getting it home and it was dirty as hell. Is Remington ammo (green/white box) that dirty?

This is my first 1911 in a very long time and I want it to be my EDC replacing my Glock 21. Any thoughts? And should I have any work done to it? Thanks for any feedback.

SigFTW
01-02-2013, 08:46
The way you described the FTF it sounds like lack of lubrication + dirty gun. Also being a new gun it could need braking in with several hundred rounds. Run it wet and clean and see how it runs after the second time out. If it continues then may be a weak slide spring.:dunno:

Spartacus100
01-02-2013, 08:55
Thats what i thought too. The first 125 rounds or so it ran great but it did seem real dirty. The muzzle was almost black as were my hands from shooting it. In fact, everything seemed dirty which is why i asked about the Remington ammo. i know some ammo is dirty (Tul for example) but didnt know if Remington was too.

I cleaned it well last night and will try and get it out this weekend for another couple of hundred rounds to see how it does.

Do you think it needs to be throated and polished?

SigFTW
01-02-2013, 09:40
Thats what i thought too. The first 125 rounds or so it ran great but it did seem real dirty. The muzzle was almost black as were my hands from shooting it. In fact, everything seemed dirty which is why i asked about the Remington ammo. i know some ammo is dirty (Tul for example) but didnt know if Remington was too.

I cleaned it well last night and will try and get it out this weekend for another couple of hundred rounds to see how it does.

Do you think it needs to be throated and polished?

I would wait until you brake it in before you do anything to the throat. If the issue persist then I would look at having it polished. I did my RIA 10mm myself but that's a $600 gun so I was not worried about screwing it up, unlike your Sig Scorpion 1k+ gun.

I run with grease on my slide because oil does not last at the range. If you run with oil take some with you to the range and give it a squirt or two if you start to see the same FTF pattern happening. Also, you could call Sig customer service and see what they recommend.

glock2740
01-02-2013, 09:59
I have heard of this exact issue with many Sigs. My Tac Ops had 1 FTF on it's first range outing, but that was due to a bad magazine. It has never done it again with any other magazine.

glock2740
01-02-2013, 10:02
Thats what i thought too. The first 125 rounds or so it ran great but it did seem real dirty. The muzzle was almost black as were my hands from shooting it. In fact, everything seemed dirty which is why i asked about the Remington ammo. i know some ammo is dirty (Tul for example) but didnt know if Remington was too.

I cleaned it well last night and will try and get it out this weekend for another couple of hundred rounds to see how it does.

Do you think it needs to be throated and polished?
I use UMC ammo at the range alot and don't find it too dirty. It's always shot well for me.

Spartacus100
01-02-2013, 10:06
i'll try the grease on the rails over the oil that i used before I first took it out. Other than the slight issue of not going fully into battery it ran great. I do think it was mostly due to being dirty and operator error in not having it properly lubed. This is my first 1911 in a LONG time. My true first 1911 was a RIA which ran great from day one.

Mayhem like Me
01-02-2013, 10:47
MY full sized scorpion was very tight I ran it very wet have about 2k rounds through it just cleaning the barrel,no issues .

Run it wet during breakin.

Spartacus100
01-02-2013, 11:05
MY full sized scorpion was very tight I ran it very wet have about 2k rounds through it just cleaning the barrel,no issues .

Run it wet during breakin.


I will. Thanks for the advice. Stopping to get some gun grease on the way home and re-lube it tonight

Mayhem like Me
01-02-2013, 12:24
I will. Thanks for the advice. Stopping to get some gun grease on the way home and re-lube it tonight

Grease is not the best answer, grease is for maybe the lugs thats it greaser is for gears and other finely fitted meshing surfaces under load... The rails don't need grease a good synthetic oil is all..:supergrin:

Spartacus100
01-02-2013, 13:29
Grease is not the best answer, grease is for maybe the lugs thats it greaser is for gears and other finely fitted meshing surfaces under load... The rails don't need grease a good synthetic oil is all..:supergrin:


What oil do you run on yours?

QNman
01-02-2013, 15:40
I use Shooters Choice grease on the rails. No issues whatsoever. A little dab will do you, too.

200 flawless rounds through my 1911R. They are pretty friggin' tight new, though... I field stripped and lubed mine before the first outing.

F106 Fan
01-02-2013, 16:26
I have used Shooter's Choice and it works well. However, I decided to use Brian Enos' Slide Glide. There are two variants depending on the temperature range where you shoot.

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

"They say" that Glocks don't like a lot of lube but Sigs and Colts just love the Slide Glide. If I were going to shoot my Glock very much, I would still use Slide Glide. It just plain works!

Richard

SigFTW
01-02-2013, 17:06
I used oil for over 20 years then tried some gun grease and never looked back. try both out and see what you like, it's personal preference.:supergrin:

mgentry
01-03-2013, 13:54
I don't have a Sig 1911 - wish I did. But I do have a Colt 1911 and a Kimber 1911 (CDP II). My Colt never had an issue but my Kimber manual says that you may have issues while breaking it in (first 500 rounds). I've yet to have an issue with the Kimber. As I said before, I don't own a Sig 1911 nor have I read the instruction manual that comes with the pistol. Does the Sig manual say anything about a break in period for the Sig? Just trying to help. Good luck.

tango44
01-05-2013, 22:02
I bought a Scorpion carry and all I use since first day is FROG LUBE and it runs just fine.

cciman
01-06-2013, 09:31
Any coating or paint will increase the dimensions of the physical parts. If it was tight fitting to begin with it, will be tighter fitting after the treatment-- thus there is a risk to using these coatings on NEW guns before years of actually wearing down the contact points, or on MATCH grade guns with tight tolerances. Combat grade guns are no problem (Glock, Sigs, HKs, SW, no problem-- 1911's, only if they are years old).

I think what you are experiencing is a perfect gun that has heightened tolerances due to the painted on coating. It is thus intolerant to any dirt, or fouling.

It will not really become like the Glock 21 until it actually starts to wear at the contact points-- when you start seeing the paint worn on the slide and frame rails. You need to break it in.

cciman
01-06-2013, 09:35
BTW, I have a Scorpion Carry on the way to me too.

I also have a Sig SS 1911, that was flawless from the beginning shooting all Wolf ammo. Tackdriver with the nicest trigger of all my 1911s.

I treated a couple of my Glocks with the NiB surface coatings, and it certainly made the sight re-install much more difficult.

Spartacus100
01-06-2013, 13:36
Any coating or paint will increase the dimensions of the physical parts. If it was tight fitting to begin with it, will be tighter fitting after the treatment-- thus there is a risk to using these coatings on NEW guns before years of actually wearing down the contact points, or on MATCH grade guns with tight tolerances. Combat grade guns are no problem (Glock, Sigs, HKs, SW, no problem-- 1911's, only if they are years old).

I think what you are experiencing is a perfect gun that has heightened tolerances due to the painted on coating. It is thus intolerant to any dirt, or fouling.

It will not really become like the Glock 21 until it actually starts to wear at the contact points-- when you start seeing the paint worn on the slide and frame rails. You need to break it in.

Great info and that makes perfect sense. I am spoiled with G21 so the Sig is a big change. i have spent alot of time racking the slide (empty of course) in between trips to the range in an attempt to increase the surface wear hoping it will loosen up a little. I had a RIA that had the 1911 rattle when you shook it but this SIG has absolutely zero rattle.

cciman
01-06-2013, 16:12
Be thoughtful of "racking the slide". 1911's are delicate works of art. There is a belief that racking the 1911 on an empty chamber can lead to "damaging" the finely delicate integrated trigger setup. The 1911 is the cult gun of >100 year old American design, with a proven battle history, but never considered for torture tests-- too good looking to beat up and abuse.:tongueout:

Typically they cost too much for anyone to drop out of the back of a truck, or turn inside a cement mixer, compared to say a $400 beat up Glock.

Same advice will be heard about dry firing without a snap cap.

Spartacus100
01-06-2013, 16:33
in not letting it slam home, i'm just running the slide back and forth to help even out the wear. i have let it slam home maybe twice since i got it.

fallenangelhim
01-06-2013, 16:35
Mine has had 200 rounds with no cleaning just a drop of oil before each range trip. I have not taken it apart to do anything. Try lubrication. Mine has been real tight from factory.


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cciman
01-06-2013, 16:35
Now you have a hard "ceramic" coating that is hard to wear off.
One of the marketed benefits of the Cerakote is that it adds lubricity.

Counter intuitive to usual gun ritual, but in this case, I would put no oil on any Cerakote surface until it gets broken in. The oil actually binds the fouling and then slide movement.

Spartacus100
01-06-2013, 16:47
sure seems like it is less slick than my RIA was. i guess the tighter tolerances have something to do with that