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frank_drebin
01-02-2013, 22:08
Last week I bought a 1998 Honda Recon TRX250. It was sitting covered in the garage of a widow for 13 years unused. After cleaning it up it could pass for "almost new". I replaced the battery and tires, changed the oil and replaced the air filter. It fires up and runs strong but will not idle at all. It just dies.

Where would you start? I'm guessing I need to pull the carb and rebuild/clean it.

Annhl8rX
01-02-2013, 22:21
Yup...the carb would be the place to start.

AK_Stick
01-02-2013, 22:31
Plugged jets in carb/idle screw out of adjustment.

If it fires right up, I'd tinker with the idle screw before I opened the carb up.



Why'd you buy a kids quad as an adult?

janice6
01-02-2013, 22:31
Anything I have had stored with fuel over an extended time had the fuel volatiles evaporate out and leave varnish on everything in the fuel system.

The second problem is that the gaskets seem to dry out and shrink with some even splitting/cracking. When gaskets shrink (if they do on yours) the mating casting parts get loose and leak air. Check all screw on the carburetor to see if any are loose and leaking.

This does not mean you should neglect to overhaul the carb. It is always a good thing to clean/repair and develop confidence in it.

On Outboard motors that have not been used for years, I squirt some 2 cycle oil into the combustion chambers and pull it over repeatedly. I have even had rings freeze in place and had to let the oil in the combustion chambers sit so it would run down the pistons and have had good luck getting them freed up. My 50's era motors run like a watch, albeit a smokey watch.

frank_drebin
01-02-2013, 22:33
Plugged jets in carb/idle screw out of adjustment.

If it fires right up, I'd tinker with the idle screw before I opened the carb up.



Why'd you buy a kids quad as an adult?

I have kids

frank_drebin
01-02-2013, 22:34
Anything I have had stored with fuel over an extended time had the fuel volatiles evaporate out and leave varnish on everything in the fuel system.

The second problem is that the gaskets seem to dry out and shrink with some even splitting/cracking. When gaskets shrink (if they do on yours) the mating casting parts get loose and leak air. Check all screw on the carburetor to see if any are loose and leaking.

This does not mean you should neglect to overhaul the carb. It is always a good thing to clean/repair and develop confidence in it.

On Outboard motors that have not been used for years, I squirt some 2 cycle oil into the combustion chambers and pull it over repeatedly. I have even had rings freeze in place and had to let the oil in the combustion chambers sit so it would run down the pistons and have had good luck getting them freed up. My 50's era motors run like a watch, albeit a smokey watch.

Thanks, I'm pulling the carb tomorrow and soaking it in a bucket of carb cleaner. I can pull the jets I think and clean them as well.
If that doesn't do it, I'll buy the carb rebuild kit

AK_Stick
01-02-2013, 22:35
Good choice then. Good learner quad.

Idle adjustment screw is IIRC on the right hand side of the carb.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/honda/188303-honda-250-recon-idle-screw.html

frank_drebin
01-02-2013, 22:38
Good choice then. Good learner quad.

Idle adjustment screw is IIRC on the right hand side of the carb.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/honda/188303-honda-250-recon-idle-screw.html

There is a screw on the bowl ( loosened and gas drained from tube)

A vertical screw at the front of carb.

A horizontal screw on the right.

AK_Stick
01-02-2013, 22:42
It's been a loooong time since I worked on a recon. But generally, on my Hondas Trx250Rs(share nothing with the Recon 250) and Rincon, the idle adjust is the horizontal screw, and I'm pretty sure on the Recon it's located on the right hand side. Vertical is pilot/main I think.

In is lean, out is rich.

frank_drebin
01-02-2013, 22:46
It's been a loooong time since I worked on a recon. But generally, on my Hondas Trx250Rs(share nothing with the Recon 250) and Rincon, the idle adjust is the horizontal screw, and I'm pretty sure on the Recon it's located on the right hand side. Vertical is pilot/main I think.

In is lean, out is rich.

Awesome, thanks

jrd22
01-02-2013, 23:07
It it's like the carb on the Rancher there will be a spring loaded knob to adjust idle speed on the right side. Is the choke working properly? On the Ranchers carb the choke is a cylinder with a piston in it that moves up and down. If it is stuck (like mine was) the engine won't idle well. I had to drill the piston out (aluminum) and replace with new, it wouldn't budge even after soaking with PBlaster for a week. Sounds like a good cleaning and blowing out will fix it, just thought I'd mention the choke in case you need to take it apart.

LEO/Dad
01-03-2013, 06:16
Anything I have had stored with fuel over an extended time had the fuel volatiles evaporate out and leave varnish on everything in the fuel system.

The second problem is that the gaskets seem to dry out and shrink with some even splitting/cracking. When gaskets shrink (if they do on yours) the mating casting parts get loose and leak air. Check all screw on the carburetor to see if any are loose and leaking.

This does not mean you should neglect to overhaul the carb. It is always a good thing to clean/repair and develop confidence in it.

On Outboard motors that have not been used for years, I squirt some 2 cycle oil into the combustion chambers and pull it over repeatedly. I have even had rings freeze in place and had to let the oil in the combustion chambers sit so it would run down the pistons and have had good luck getting them freed up. My 50's era motors run like a watch, albeit a smokey watch.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/

This is great stuff for keeping engines clean. I also use it to decarbonize outboards. Mix with gas for maintenance! Originated in the north for the old 24/1 outboards.

BigMoneyGrip
01-03-2013, 06:45
Frank, it's gonna be the pilot jet that is stopped up. The float bowl will be full of scabs that will need to be cleaned out.

Do not put the whole carb in the cleaner. There are rubber orings and gaskets that it will dork up. The Berryman's is the best. Take out the jets and soak them for about 20 min and then wash them off. Make sure you can see through them.

I wouldn't adjust the idle screw until you have it running. Chances are, it ran fine when it was put up so the idle should be fine when you get it going.

Good luck!

AK_Stick
01-03-2013, 07:25
Frank, it's gonna be the pilot jet that is stopped up. The float bowl will be full of scabs that will need to be cleaned out.

Do not put the whole carb in the cleaner. There are rubber orings and gaskets that it will dork up. The Berryman's is the best. Take out the jets and soak them for about 20 min and then wash them off. Make sure you can see through them.

I wouldn't adjust the idle screw until you have it running. Chances are, it ran fine when it was put up so the idle should be fine when you get it going.

Good luck!

He said it fires up and runs, fine just doesn't idle. Prob not a clogged jet in that case.

BigMoneyGrip
01-03-2013, 09:36
He said it fires up and runs, fine just doesn't idle. Prob not a clogged jet in that case.

I still have my money on the plugged pilot jet. I've seen it a million and one times. It can run and not idle. With a plugged pilot jet, it will run anywhere above 1/4 throttle.

Also, using logic, most people won't "adjust" the idle screw before they let one set up. However, the will leave the gas in them, which plugs the jets.

frank_drebin
01-03-2013, 09:57
Can the jets be accessed without completely tearing down the carburetor?

BigMoneyGrip
01-03-2013, 10:22
Can the jets be accessed without completely tearing down the carburetor?

Sometimes you can loosen the clamps and turn the carb enough to get to the bottom. You'll just have to dig in and see what happens.

I've got lucky on a few and have been able to squirt carb cleaner down the fuel line and get it into the bowl that way. I would give it a good shot every hour or so for a few days. You might want to try this first.

There is a screw at the bottom of the bowl. Loosening this will drain the bowl.

Rinspeed
01-03-2013, 10:34
Start with the Seafoam and go from there.

Adjuster
01-03-2013, 10:42
Not only SeaFoam in the carb to clean but also put SeaFoam in the fuel tank and drive it around for a day. SeaFoam will clean out anything. Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank does wonders as well.


/

ppicasso
01-03-2013, 12:55
My 1997 Recon is very finicky with bad gas, whereas my 2006 Polaris doesn't care about the gas. They use from the same gas can. I use b-12 chemtool in both after I had my Honda's carb re-built a year ago. The carb bowl had what looked like someone's tobacco spit dried out in it. I haven't had a problem since and both bikes sit two to three weeks between uses. I also keep both tanks brim full to prevent condensation in the tank between uses.

frank_drebin
01-11-2013, 18:48
Thanks for all if the input. We pled the carb, pulled the bowl off and removed the jets. One was clogged to the point of needing to be soaked in CLR for 24 hours then carb cleaner blew right through. Adjusted everything to factory specs and she runs like a top.

BigMoneyGrip
01-11-2013, 18:55
Yeee hawwww!

Make sure the kids wear a helmet when they ride. It doesn't take much of a lick to cause a lot of damage.

HollowHead
01-11-2013, 19:02
Frank, it's gonna be the pilot jet that is stopped up. The float bowl will be full of scabs that will need to be cleaned out.

Do not put the whole carb in the cleaner. There are rubber orings and gaskets that it will dork up. The Berryman's is the best. Take out the jets and soak them for about 20 min and then wash them off. Make sure you can see through them.

I wouldn't adjust the idle screw until you have it running. Chances are, it ran fine when it was put up so the idle should be fine when you get it going.

Good luck!

This is it. The low speed circuit jet (pilot jet) has gummed up and as stated, don't touch any adjustment if it was put away running. The best way to confirm this is if it will idle with the choke engaged and if you want to take the easy way out, drain the bowl and run Seafoam through with regular gas and it should fix itself with no mechanical intervention shortly. Do not adjust any screws!